Hey
I've run into a bit of an issue, i;ve removed the old cv shaft but can't seem to get the new one in. The inner joint slides into the transmission ok but i cant seem to get it in the final 10mm. Is it just a matter of forcing it in or is there a technique to it?

Hey,
I'm assuming that your replacing the left hand cv/driveshaft back into the tranny as you were saying. From what I have read in my manual and assuming you drive a third gen, there should be a ser clip that goes around the shaft roughly 10mm in so while being as gentle as you can you will have tap the wheel bearing end of the shaft with a hammer in order to move that ser clip under the shaft entry hole and keep going until the ser clip slips into an internal recess within the tranny to secure the shaft in place.
I had the same problem when changing the outer cv joint on my old TH.
Anyway good luck and hope this helps

I just put the drive shaft into the transmission on the TL just a couple of days ago. I had to use a piece of timber and hammer to get it back in. One went in easier then the other side.

Excess force doesnt make sense. They need a push but forcing and hammering id be a little scared of doing..:doubt:

just use a bit of wood as a drift (between the cv and hammer and tap i in. replaced both my cv's 2 months ago and cos they were new it was a bit tight to get on . just walk away have a coffe and smoke or something for 10 mins and then go back and try again.

which side are you replacing

was it easy to remove the old CV shaft

check the intrim shaft for damaged splines

you need the circlip to stop the CV moving in or out
so no oil leaks from the seal


apart from the circlip have a look at the spline and see it it is damaged

you may need to close the circlip on the shaft a bit more

have a look with a torch inside the diff see if there is anything blocking the splines

Ok all worked out in the end, just needed a bit more force. Just out of interest does anyone know how much fluid goes in the TP autotransmission diff? I put back in around about how much i drained out but i find the dipstick measure completely useless so i'm not 100% sure i got it right.

the dipstick on the trans is only accurate while the engine is running.

Ok all worked out in the end, just needed a bit more force. Just out of interest does anyone know how much fluid goes in the TP autotransmission diff? I put back in around about how much i drained out but i find the dipstick measure completely useless so i'm not 100% sure i got it right.

i think about 7 or so litres. when you check the level make sure it is warm, so take it for a slow drive around the corner so it can use the gears and warm it up (needs to work through the gears and converter to get the right reading)then stop on a level surface to make sure you get a propper reading.
when servicing it u need to warm it up first so you can get most of the fluid out (and not just sitting in the drive way reving it) . you see the torque converter holds about a litre and a half. thats why in the manual it tell you to unhook the lines from the factory catch can (can't remeber what to call it) and run it in N for 1 min and no more so most of what in the lines and converter can drain , then remove the drain plug and dump the rest. then take off the pan and clean off all the old gasket, then clean the magnets and take note of any shavings to give you an idea of the condition the box is in. then remove the old internal filter and o-ring. the put in a new filter-0-ring and gasket. just don't do the tranny bolts more tha 2 turns past hand tight cos they WILL snap off (i know i did that and getting a half snapped bolt out is not fun:rant: )then put about 4 litres back in and run for 1 min only in N then put 2 more litres in and keep checking the level and topping it up till it's at the right mark for warm. and i think thats about it for the auto tranny service but if i missed something im sure i'll be corrected:D

the dipstick on the trans is only accurate while the engine is running.

nope thats why there's 2 mark one for hot and one for cold , but i do agree that the hot reading is more accurate. i would not check the level with the car running (would hate to be spat at with hot tranny fuild, not good advice for someone who hasn't had much to do with servicing there car) but i would go for a short drive to warm it up first before checking it.