G'Day

Need a bit of help regarding which oil to use...

I hit search & couldnt find anything (not cycling through 200 pages lol)!

One of my tappits is sticking (Very Intermittantly [only heard it twice] if that makes a difference), so I'm going to replace the oil here in SA, before heading back to vic on monday morning.

Which is the best oil... read somewhere else Pentrite HRP15 is a good bet, but is that all I need to know, or is there that 10/40 bollocks that usually accompanies oil ratings.

Cheers for any help in Advance..

Ta

I use Castrol edge sport 5w-30 best oil for Magnas i wouldn't use any other in my car.

I use Castrol edge sport 5w-30 best oil for Magnas i wouldn't use any other in my car.
Cheers dude - thats what I wanted to hear :)

/thread if needed :cool:

']Cheers dude - thats what I wanted to hear :)

/thread if needed :cool:

Personally I'd go the other way. 5w30 is pretty light oil, and if it's tappet noise you're concerned about, and heavier oil would probably give better protection.

At the end of the day it's one of those questions that everyone has an opinion about, and everyone has a reason why 1 oil is better than another :cool:

Which would you suggest BlackBeard?

I'm a bit of a n00b when it comes to oil...

I usually just chuck it to a mechanic & get them to do it.

What would be a better option IYO?

Well. I use Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic 5w-40. Swear buy the stuff. Bit expensive for a Magna however.

If I was you I might use a thicker oil to keep the tappits quiet. Maybe something around the 15w-50, or maybe 60 range (check that 15w-60 is ok in Magnas in the handbook)

motul 15w50 and a bottle of nulon lift free up, or hpr15 and a bottle of lifter free up ( i have tried wynns and it did nothing nulon worked well)

If its making the noise at startup, its because the oil isnt flowing well enough into the tappets, so you should get a thinner oil. If its there or still there when the engine is warm, the oil is probably too thin and is purging too quick, hence the need for a thicker oil, which also quitens them down.

However if its just on startup, its more than likely just because it is a bit clogged. So I would try in this order: Nulon worn lifter free up, nulon engine flush.

There is also a trick, which worked some what on my car. Sit the engine at 3000rpm for about 30 seconds and then let idle for a bit, and do this a few times. The tappets apparently are designed to purge at these revs, so it cleans them out.

Give that a try. As for oil, personally I believe that the first number should be as low as possible to ensure good oil flow at startup, and the seconds number as thick as possible to ensure good protection. The only downside with a very thick oil is increased resistance and slightly worse fuel consumption, and also on a very modern engine, though I dont think this applies to magnas, is the small clearances and tolerances may need a thin oil to get through everywhere.

Personally I use Penrit Sin something, its like a 10-60 oil. Its pretty expensive, but you can try a cheaper Penrite like HPR15 which is a good oil also. Quite a few people use it, and seems to work well in magnas.

Ollie

Hmmm

If your lifter is making intermitant noise, it can be caused by one of 4 things.

1/ The oil passage OUT of the rocker is blocked, oil is not flowing properly through the lifter
2/ there is some gunk in the lash adjuster, (most common) and this is causing the lash adjuster not to maintain pressure. What happens is the cap stops with engine off, if that rocker is on licf (lobe of cam) the oil bleeds and will take a few seconds to take up the slack.
3/ Lash adjuster is shagged, is also common
4/ top end is blocked with gunk. Only way to fix is to remove it all and then clean it all properly.

HR15 is by far the oil I have had the best results with in a Magna or any engine for that matter. Have had great results with the old Wynns but the newer stuff is not much cop. Nulon is also good.

At the end of the day to properly fix you replace, thinner oil may halp get faster flow but will bleed off quicker. Thicker oil will take longer to get up but will hold a little longer, either wat oil will not fix this, only curing the cause will.

When you say "the best results" what are you judging this on?

I too would recommend a thicker oil. Having exactly the same issue with my other car (Subaru) and the slightly thicker oil + Wynns Charge (friction proofing) did the trick. Haven't heard the lifter since.

I have always used a 20/50 oil with no problems at all. Quiet on start up and remains that way evenon our recent 40 degree days.

When you say "the best results" what are you judging this on?

I too would recommend a thicker oil. Having exactly the same issue with my other car (Subaru) and the slightly thicker oil + Wynns Charge (friction proofing) did the trick. Haven't heard the lifter since.

Best results? Only about 20+ years in the trade as well as numerous race engines built as well on top of this oil tests I had conducted several years ago on many oils including castrol, penziol, penrite, valvoline etc.

Subaru use a very different lash adjuster to the Magnas. The Subaru have a larger pressure valve in the lifter and are less likely to "tap"

Ok I think you took that comment a little personally.

What I meant was, are you judging it by the colour it comes out? The condition of parts that require lubrication? What were the results of this 'oil test'?

ohh well here is my 2c

Since i have had the VRX i have allways used Penrite HPR10 10/50. Every oil change (5,000kms) i would also put in some Nulon Engine flush. no tappet noise car runs like a dream

Anyways like i said my 2c worth for ya

Cheeriiooo

Heath

I have also used many oils my prefered is as above the Penrite HPR10 10/50 Love it !
The best noise reduction aditive for me is Nulon Worne Engine Treatment well worth $10 2001 VRX manual with 150 000 kms

Hello all, just purchased a TJ for my son and being the first Mitsubishi in the family, I am surprised when I read that the engine oil changes are called up at avery 15K. This to me, being a 6-7K oil change person for my other vehicles I have owned, seems way over the top. Probably instigated as a sales gimmick to make the vehicles appear cheaper to run against other makers.(my General calls for 10K changes)
I notice, that for a 78K, elderly one owner vehicle, with log book stamped at the 15K intervals, that it is well varnished in the rocker box and under the filler cap. Far more than my other vehicles where I do 6-7K changes. Plus, I am reasonably sure, that when a car is serviced at the local 'service center' that the good 'mickey mouse' oil would not be used, instead a cheaper general purpose oil to suit all and sundry.:confused:
I always use 15-40 in winter (easier on the starter motor on a cold start) and 20-50 for the rest of the year, all costing around $20-$25 per 5 liters, all very quiet running engines and never any mechanical problems, or oil usage.

Pablo

Pretty much what every one here has said... Penrite is a great oil..
I use Shell Helix in the Magna.... Mobil 1 Full Synthetic in the Evo...

If ya pay more than 25-30 bucks for an oil and the SAE rating is up to your car's spec (Check your owners manual) you should be good to go.

Noisy tappets are a pain and the only real way to fix them is replace them... sorry ...been there done that.... you might give them a couple of thousand more k's by dumping chemicals in the oil system but all modern oils have these chemicals and detergents to do that job...
Lifters die it's as simple as that... all you can do is use a very good quality oil from the word go....and there lies the problem... not everyone uses the best oil for their cars some people truct their mechanics to use quality oils... but instead the mechanic saves a little money and puts in cheap ass crap.

Ollie has an interesting idea of the 3,000rpm purge... never heard that, but I can see how it will work...
Good stuff...

As for the skanky varnish inside your motor.... that's crap quality oil for ya....
That's why I will never use Castrol oils... (unless it's fully synthetic)
GTX and GTX2-3-magnatec are crap oils.... wouldn't ever use them. not even when I had my $1000 1983 Mazda panel van.... even that got penrite....!!

Steve

Steve - can I ask what you are basing your comments about Castrol oil being crap and Penrite being great on?

People in this thread seem to have their favourite oils but aren't commenting on WHY they have made these decisions.

TL-R generally people here seem to rate a good oil by how it feels in the engine, ie, if the lifters are quite, how clean it seems to be keeping the engine. I guess the easiest way to tell is when people switch oils, ie switch from some crappy castrol to penrite and the engine becomes much more silent. Penrite have a pretty good reputation, and I like them coz I favour oils that have a big cold and warm temp viscosity difference.

But I think blackbird is right, I have tried a few things, and though they seem to have done good for a while, my lifters seem to becomign a bit noisy again and I cant stop it, probably just need to look at replacing them. I think the only real magic cure is if you have noisy lifters at startup because of gunk and is clogged, and some good oil and cleaner cleans stops that.

Ollie

My favourite oil is the cheapest one with the same viscosity that the engineers decided on.

Motor oil manufacturers are not going to put an engine oil on the market for all and sundry to purchase and use in there engines, as specified by the manufacturer, where there is any possibility that it may be harmfull to that engine and have it give adverse performance where used as intended!
They would not be in the market place long if they did, 'cause some smart **** industrial chemist with a smart **** lawyer mate would take them to the cleaners, and there would be a smart **** motoring journo itching to tell the world.
The two most detremental things to a domestic engine is:-
A/ A lead foot driver.
B/ Infrequent oil changes.

Just my thoughts!!!

Steve - can I ask what you are basing your comments about Castrol oil being crap and Penrite being great on?

People in this thread seem to have their favourite oils but aren't commenting on WHY they have made these decisions.

TL-R.... Fair question matey....

I'm basing my comments on experience...

When I first started playing with cars back in the late 80's early 90's I had a car I bought off the oldies at 65,000k's) (crash damaged) that ran nothing but GTX 2. every 5000k's the oil and filter was changed and the inside of this engine at 80,000km old was absolutely woeful. it had caked on varnish that had the appearance of black sooty carbon. disgusting.

another car I purchased after that had the same life... fastidious owner that changed oil regularly with GTX-2 (but i figured my previous experience was a one off and was because it was a ford falcon.)
It was a twin cam corolla... same again....

since then I've used Valvoline XLD Valvoline VS-L, Penrite, Pennzoil, Mobil and Shell Helix.... I have never had these oils do this to any of my engines whether they were hi tech or run of the mill pushrod types..

I recently (Just before I bought my VR-X) had a 1990 toyota cressida with the original 7M-GE motor. again I bought this car off my oldies as I sold my GSR to buy an Evo. I needed a daily driver so this was a perfect opportunity to get a good car I looked after for the best part of 10 years. the car was a trooper...
I used Penrite 10-60 oil in this as the underbucket shims used to make a bit of a rattle on this motor so I redid all the gaps on them to the factory specs (Pain in the A**) but still she rattled. I started using the Penrite 10-60SAE in the cressida... and lo and behold the rattle got about 60% quieter.... it kept going until 5 years after that when the motor blew a head gasket so I pulled the motor down to do a few little things (Oil Pump, main seals etc) and this engine was very clean inside....even after 220,000k's (she overheated 3 times, one time to the point of stalling,
I was quite surprised actually....

So yeah... it's only experience champ.... It's true what you say... people love particular brands of oil and stick by them.....I'm lucky to have fairly extensive mechanical knowledge and have seen this first hand.

I truely believe you get what you pay for and when it comes to motor oils, I don't think twice about buying a premium oil for my cars.

If I've offended some castrol lovers then I apologise, their synthetic oils are good from what I've read, but their other oils ......:shock:
I would rather spend a little more $$ and buy something else.

Steve

Motor oil manufacturers are not going to put an engine oil on the market for all and sundry to purchase and use in there engines, as specified by the manufacturer, where there is any possibility that it may be harmfull to that engine and have it give adverse performance where used as intended!
They would not be in the market place long if they did, 'cause some smart **** industrial chemist with a smart **** lawyer mate would take them to the cleaners, and there would be a smart **** motoring journo itching to tell the world.
The two most detremental things to a domestic engine is:-
A/ A lead foot driver.
B/ Infrequent oil changes.

Just my thoughts!!!

Pablo...

Good thought.... BUT how well do you think you'd go taking an oil manufacturer to court over 1 blown engine, because of the alledged crappy oil.... too many variables... they could turn around and say you had a lead foot, services were not carried out correctly etc etc etc... It'd be impossible unless you yourself were

A/ a fully qualified and practicing motor engineer
B/ an industrial chemist or knew one with big balls that would be willing to take on these jokers.

I've had enough of a drama arguing with a mechanic about an" injector cleaner" that was supposed to clean my injectors. (They take off your fuel line near the injector rail and pump some chemical through the injectors to clean them)

Reality was they never touched the fuel rail or the injectors... My engine was filthy as all hell so anyone could see if anything was touched or removed.. what I paid for was an $80 bottle of spitfire plus......

I got my refund though.... being an engineer and able to talk their jibberish does help...

I'll add another detrimental effect of the modern engine too Pablo..

C/ too many short trips not allowing the oil to reach operating temp thus burning off the impurties...

Steve

OK on that Steve,...good one!
I will add C/ to my list.
....though, must say, years ago, before GTX 2 and 3 were on the market, I stripped my 5 liter Holden donk at 100 K miles (160 K kilometers), having run it for 40 K miles since buying it at auction, only on GTX engine oil, changing it at 3 thousand mile intervals. The cobber who was apprentice master at a big city GMH dealership came over as I lifted the crank out, and asked if I had already cleaned the inside of the block as it was so clean. No sludgy varnish build up that some are experiencing. The comment was "must be good stuff"...Who knows?

Pablo