heres the thing, i've searched over 10 pages on the topic and couldnt find wat i was looking for. it happened this mornin for the first time. drove 2 trade skool, parked the car, turned tha car off and next thing you know the doors lock and they wouldnt stop locking. the door lock/unlock button would go into the lock position but you could still hear all the locking mechanisms trying to lock. any way was late this mornin so didnt hav much time to think about it, so i unhooked the battery and left it. cam bak about 6 hrs later hooked it back up and was all fine, working perfect.

drove into the driveway, turned the car off and it starts again and jus wont stop!! as a temporary solution i've taken the central locking fuse out from under the steering wheel and left it at that.
I have no idea wat the problem is, its the first time its happened and im stumped!! do i need to take it to mitsu/auto electrician or can i do soething about it at home??

any advice would be helpful. cheerz

My brother had a similar problem to this; it turned out to be the contact in the driver's side door lock that tells the lock that it's closed being worn, which wasn't sending the signal the BCM needed.

If you're confident, pull the lock apart and clean it out. Otherwise it'd be best to take it to Mitsubishi.

k i'll give it ashot 2mrow n c wat hapens.
anyone else got any ideas?

I had a similar issue about a year ago. Turns out.....the buttons on my remote had clogged up with gunk, so it only took a very light touch, or even just moving the remote around for the buttons to press in. It drove me nuts.

My solution......I chucked the remote in a draw and I've used the key since. I'll get around to acquiring a new remote sooner or later.

+1 to the BEM not getting the closed door signal

what you describe is the door locks 'cycling' (the constant unlocking then relocking of the locks)

generally caused by a door closed sensor not telling the BEM that the door is closed / closed properly, so the locks cycle round and round to let you know its not locked and that there is a problem of sorts.

the BEM gets its doors signal from the interior light buttons / doors open sensors that are in the door jambs - one of them probably isnt making contact correctly or is jumping.
the hard part is locating the faulty sensor.\
(you know the ones, you push on them and the interior light goes out)

if its not that, then it could suggest that one of the locking sellenoids is on the way out, and isnt 'engaging' into the lock position correctly.
thats a PITA job, but doable once you know which one is on the way out of course :)

well i put the fuse back in the next day and so far its given me noprobs of any sort?? but im gessin its just a temp solution. if it happens again then i'll find a permanent solution.

just wondering if anyone ever figured out the problem? I got the exact issue with driver side door and had to result to disconnecting the actuator, til i figure the issue. Need to know if anyone ever had issue and actually FIXED it!

well its been two years now after i put that fuse back in, it hasnt happened ever again! TBH i never really figured out wat the problem was. but as said in the above posts it must be the contacts in the drivers side door.
hoha_99- try the fuse trick it mite actually work..who knoes lol

thanks dude, will give it a try.

Is a very common problem with a faulty door actuator, I have lost count on how many I have replaced over the years

which part? as in just the connector or the whole thing (the white round thing inside the door). If that's it, can you please tell me what price should i be expecting to pay for a second hand one?

Ta

If the actuator is similar to the 2ndGen then there is a small quadrant that flips from side to side.

The casing has a ledge each side, on the ledge is a small rubber buffer, if the buffer wears down or falls out of position then the actuator quadrant can move too far.
This sends a signal to the other actuators, so the system just keeps cycling.

You have to work out which actuator it is.

Go inside the passenger doors in turn and disconnect the actuator circuit and try the locks.
When the system works OK then you know which actuator is faulty.
It is possible to take apart, with care. Otherwise, wreckers or a new actuator.
I just found a thin piece of rubber and glued in.
Problem solved.

Gerry

Its definetly the driver side, cause all been working well since i disconnected it. In the 3rd gen, there is round white plastic thingy with the leavers connected to it, my guess is there is an electrical or a short circuit with that, so am planning to just change that. Any advice?