Hi folks

This is the first time I have completely filled the tank.
To me it appears the delivery hose from the filler is leaking as it enters the tank. Is it this simple? Or is it worse. I hope the flange in the tank hasn't cracked.



http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/4279/1004241zq3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Appreciate your suggestions, as always

Blake

Its more likely to be a perished hose.

Take em both off and have a good look at em to see if theres any cracks or splits.

Its usually the smaller one that gives way.

They aint hard to replace, just fiddly. (Replace that squueze clamp on the little one with a screw type too) :)

Its more likely to be a perished hose.

Take em both off and have a good look at em to see if theres any cracks or splits.

Its usually the smaller one that gives way.

They aint hard to replace, just fiddly. :)

O/F

That's what I'm hoping too. The hoses are 10 years old after all. I'll keep you posted, it didn't look too hard to change them.

cheers
Blake

O/F

That's what I'm hoping too. The hoses are 10 years old after all. I'll keep you posted, it didn't look too hard to change them.

cheers
Blake

I don't think it's that simple. My falcon dumped 10L of fuel onto the driveway. The filler hose is cracked where it joins the tank. Not really a major issue as i barely have enough money to fill the tank 3/4 most of the time lol I've just never filled it up past 3/4 since that happened.

I don't think it's that simple. My falcon dumped 10L of fuel onto the driveway. The filler hose is cracked where it joins the tank. Not really a major issue as i barely have enough money to fill the tank 3/4 most of the time lol I've just never filled it up past 3/4 since that happened.
Thanks Killzone

I'll go the pipes first, and look at the flanges at the same time. Have to use up the fuel in the tank first, or I will end up covered in it! Will post again soon

cheers
Blake

Fitted the new fuel delivery and vent hoses today. Filled up the tank, but its still leaking.
The flanges are fine no cracks. Any ideas??

Did you replace that clamp with a good screw clamp.

Try putting the car on stands or a ramp and sprinkling fine dirt on the wet area till it looks dry.
Then carefully rock the car a little till a wet spot starts to reappear, that should at least narrow it down.

Wear eye protection and be careful, it doesnt need to move much, just enuff to get the petrol splashing about.

Did you replace that clamp with a good screw clamp.

Try putting the car on stands or a ramp and sprinkling fine dirt on the wet area till it looks dry.
Then carefully rock the car a little till a wet spot starts to reappear, that should at least narrow it down.

Wear eye protection and be careful, it doesnt need to move much, just enuff to get the petrol splashing about.

O/F Great idea, thank you for that. Used all brand new screw clamps on both hoses

O/F Great idea, thank you for that. Used all brand new screw clamps on both hoses

How badly is it leaking? Is it just like in the pics or was it dripping?

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/731/dsc02952vd5.jpg

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/1110/dsc02953as8.jpg

Scary experience..

How badly is it leaking? Is it just like in the pics or was it dripping?

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/731/dsc02952vd5.jpg

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/1110/dsc02953as8.jpg

Scary experience..


Also costly

I would of been vacuuming all that petrol back up thats a good $15 on the floor lol.

How badly is it leaking? Is it just like in the pics or was it dripping?

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/731/dsc02952vd5.jpg

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/1110/dsc02953as8.jpg

Scary experience..

Hell, NO!

Just dripping when filled to the top of the filler. Can't do anything more until I get some car ramps.

Cheers

Hell, NO!

Just dripping when filled to the top of the filler. Can't do anything more until I get some car ramps.

Cheers

Check gasket on the flange behind car body,where fuel go into car.

Check gasket on the flange behind car body,where fuel go into car.

Hi Andrew

I can do that....But I am wondering though, wouldn't it be running down the outside of the hoses too?

cheers
Blake

UPDATE

I put it on car ramps this morning, and found that the flange for the breather hose is leaking at the weld. I'd say there is a fair chance that its a botched repair. Short term I'll only part fill the tank but long term I'll drain it completely and remove it. I would presume there are people around that can repair these properly. Or alternately maybe someone might know if there is a spray that can go over the flange weld area or even a suitable gasket sealant. Or does someone in Brisbane have a good tank lying around I can buy?

While I was there found a subject for another thread too. Stay tuned.

cheers
Blake

G'day Blake, get a bar of bathroom soap, wet it to get it a little soft then rub it ovet the cracked area, working it into the crack. I have used this method for emergency repaires on the bottom of split tanks, and it worked for me. Since your leak is at the top, you may get away with this method as being a permanent repair.

Pablo

G'day Blake, get a bar of bathroom soap, wet it to get it a little soft then rub it ovet the cracked area, working it into the crack. I have used this method for emergency repaires on the bottom of split tanks, and it worked for me. Since your leak is at the top, you may get away with this method as being a permanent repair.

Pablo

Geez Pablo

Where do you get this stuff from! Are you like McGyver or something!

I'll give it a go for sure. Thanks for that!

Blake

UPDATE

I put it on car ramps this morning, and found that the flange for the breather hose is leaking at the weld. I'd say there is a fair chance that its a botched repair.

Not a botched repair as my TF was also doing the same thing and a few other members have had the same thing. Apparently there was a series of earlier petrol tanks that were affected.

Not a botched repair as my TF was also doing the same thing and a few other members have had the same thing. Apparently there was a series of earlier petrol tanks that were affected.

Hey Phonic

That's interesting to know. What did you do to fix the issue?

cheers
Blake

degrease the area and use some selleys 2-part metal bond.

Good ****, sealed up a broken banjo bolt for the water return from my turbocharger with it, was fine for months and a fuel tank isnt exaclty as harsh an enviroment as that. Just make sure its clean and dry before you put it on.

That part of the tank isnt under pressure, so it will be fine for nigh on ever, the only issue is the fuel will destroy the soap when splashed, but the soap will defintely get you through to a pay day or 2.

Lionel

degrease the area and use some selleys 2-part metal bond.

Good ****, sealed up a broken banjo bolt for the water return from my turbocharger with it, was fine for months and a fuel tank isnt exaclty as harsh an enviroment as that. Just make sure its clean and dry before you put it on.

That part of the tank isnt under pressure, so it will be fine for nigh on ever, the only issue is the fuel will destroy the soap when splashed, but the soap will defintely get you through to a pay day or 2.

Lionel
Hi Lionel

That's great. I hadn't got round to Pablo's great trick with the soap, so I might just go straight for your suggestion.

Thanks for taking the time to reply

kind regards
Blake

Hey Phonic

That's interesting to know. What did you do to fix the issue?

cheers
Blake

I traded the car in for a VZ Clubsport. lol

QUOTE.<That part of the tank isnt under pressure, so it will be fine for nigh on ever, the only issue is the fuel will destroy the soap when splashed, but the soap will defintely get you through to a pay day or 2.> UNQUOTE

All of the tank is under pressure, unless the cap seal is knackered. Just unscrew the cap and you can hear it escape!
The beauty of using soap is the fact the petrol DOESN'T dissolve it. It is an old 'bushys' trick to seal damaged tanks. But I am sure that there are modern products on the market that would be more permanent.
I used soap to seal a split motorcycle tank for 5 months till I got around to soldering it up.
A mate once used soap to seal a crack in the long range fuel tank on his prime mover for over a year till he did a major o/haul. He always carried soap in his glove box.

Pablo

Oh, by the way, my TJ tank is also leaking from the front L/H corner from near the top, above the fuel filter. Only leaks when it is full.

QUOTE.<That part of the tank isnt under pressure, so it will be fine for nigh on ever, the only issue is the fuel will destroy the soap when splashed, but the soap will defintely get you through to a pay day or 2.> UNQUOTE

All of the tank is under pressure, unless the cap seal is knackered. Just unscrew the cap and you can hear it escape!
The beauty of using soap is the fact the petrol DOESN'T dissolve it. It is an old 'bushys' trick to seal damaged tanks. But I am sure that there are modern products on the market that would be more permanent.
I used soap to seal a split motorcycle tank for 5 months till I got around to soldering it up.
A mate once used soap to seal a crack in the long range fuel tank on his prime mover for over a year till he did a major o/haul. He always carried soap in his glove box.

Pablo

(Oh, by the way, my TJ tank is also leaking from the front L/H corner from near the top, above the fuel filter. Only leaks when it is full.

Hi Pablo

If it were bad I would go the soap option. But seeing it is only happening when I fill up to the top, I might leave it be until I get under there with something permanent that I can apply and forget about it. I have to pull off the breather hose to apply it anyhow.

(I assumed the tank to be universally pressurized, since it hisses when the cap is released).

Surprising to hear your TJ with a leaky tank, not a very old car. But I guess it happens...



cheers
Blake

Soap is a great temp repair, ahve done that one myself before

There are propert 2 part tank repair kits.

MAKE SURE THAT IT IS ALL COMPLETELY DRY AND METAL, RUB OFF THE PAINT also prepsol the area as the fuel will leave a coating on the clean parts.

The issue is where the pipe is soldered into the tank, it then cracks as it was not soldered well enough in the factory.

Another option may be to get another good tank from the wrecker, remember DO NOT WELD the tank unless it is being done by a pro and is full to the brin with water

It makes the plastic tank in my Commode seem such not a bad idea after all!!

Pablo

pressure should be low to non-existant... in the tank, hence the one way valve fitted inline to your carbon cannister.

Ive had mine out for months now, no adverse effects and cleared the engien bay up noicely...makes changing the fuel filter much simpler.

I know what its for, how it works and so on, and the vapour feed from the tank is now just plumbed into one of the existing lines, cant remember off hand which one.

Never have any pressure in the tank, dont get the 'hiss' at the petrol station (not that this was the goal) but ive had no issues after doing it.

Still the selleys stuff shoudl be fine for any pressure your tank sees, as it held my cooling system together for quite a while...damn hicksville not knowing anything about turbochargers

Thanks people

I'll let you know how it goes

Blake

Hey lynel, will you clear up a few points from your post re carbon cannister?

Just what have you had out?, the one way valve or the cannister?

And if it is the cannister that you have out, how does it make changing the fuel filter when it is back next to the fuel tank?

And, do you know where I can exactly find this oneway valve in the vent line from the tank?

Cheers, Pablo

umm the carbon cannister is down near the fuel filter in the engine bay (besude the steering column arm and the middle of the car, attached to the firewall.

There was a one way valve back at the fuel tank, which is the vapour feed line to the cannister.

The cannister itself has a bracket with 2 bolts halding it like a fuel filter clamp, and the fuel filter clamp and carbon cannister both share a common bolt hole. It had to be losened and moved to access the fuel filter.

I wasnt aware there is a fuel filter near the fuel tank? i relise there might be an intank sock, type filter but thats about it.

2nd Gen fuel filter is under the master cyl

3rd gen the fuel filter is under the RLHS in front of the tank.....

The carbon canister is there by law, you remove it and you risk several things aside from a huge EPA fine

The valve is there for a reason, the vac line that flows into the TB can have a flame backfire down it and the valve will arrest that flame. If it gets past this, it could end up int he tank and kaboom

Now the chances of this are very remote, but the idea is the pressure in the tank can flow into the canister, when the engine starts it sucks the vapour out into the manifold and burns. Take out the canister, you have vapour into the atmosphere like in older cars with the vented tanks.

The valve more sticks than it blocks, once this happens replace it, can not really be fixed.

The tanks in modern cars are designed to have some pressure in them, not entirely sure why, you will generaly hear a little vapour escape when you take off the cap, more when you have empty cap. This will even happen in a new car, only you will not really hear it.

i knew i wasnt speaking BS

Thanks for clearing that up MADMAGNA

BUt yes, well aware of the effects and consequences of this. One that that occurs is your fuel can go off rather quickly... but this car of mine sees 2 tanks a week, so thats not really an issue. By quickly i mean in maybe 10 days, you can tell the idle and accerlation arent as good.

The benefits of clearing up the engine bay far out way the consequence, and if worst comes to worst, i can always put it in, thats if its ever noticed, there arent hanging vac lines and a dirty big bracket that says "there used to be something half-important here"

On my S13 i had it out for maybe 2 years, and the fact its in such a out-of-sight location, no one ever picked up it wasnt there, and i did go to the same effort to remove all the lines and brackets.

NO PERFORMANCE BENEFIT, purely asthetic

Ok

Spent half the morning under the car. :headbange

Applied the Loctite RPK1 Radiator & petrol tank repair kit. This stuff is like Blu-Tac, you roll it around but the product is activated when you do this. The product requires the area to be thorougly free of dirt but petrol residue is not an issue. Clean the area with a wire brush and Methylated Spirits. Basically roll putty into a pencil shape, and pressed it in around the delivery and ventilation flanges on the tank. TIP: use a bit of plastic liner like a glad bag to form the putty so it doesn't stick on your fingers. Then peel it off.

The product sets hard in about 15 minutes reaching maximum strength in two hours.

I have left this to set overnight with the cap undone on the filler to eliminate pressure from expansion in the short term.

Matierals: Loctite Radiator and Petrol tank repair kit P/N RPK1, Wire brush, rag, car ramps/stands,blade screwdriver to remove delivery and vent hoses.
Time required: 15 minutes
Cost: $10.80

I will let you know how this goes in a week or two when I refuel the tank

regards
Blake

Ok

Spent half the morning under the car. :headbange

Applied the Loctite RPK1 Radiator & petrol tank repair kit. This stuff is like Blu-Tac, you roll it around but the product is activated when you do this. The product requires the area to be thorougly free of dirt but petrol residue is not an issue. Clean the area with a wire brush and Methylated Spirits. Basically roll putty into a pencil shape, and pressed it in around the delivery and ventilation flanges on the tank. TIP: use a bit of plastic liner like a glad bag to form the putty so it doesn't stick on your fingers. Then peel it off.

The product sets hard in about 15 minutes reaching maximum strength in two hours.

I have left this to set overnight with the cap undone on the filler to eliminate pressure from expansion in the short term.

Matierals: Loctite Radiator and Petrol tank repair kit P/N RPK1, Wire brush, rag, car ramps/stands,blade screwdriver to remove delivery and vent hoses.
Time required: 15 minutes
Cost: $10.80

I will let you know how this goes in a week or two when I refuel the tank

regards
Blake

This is now fixed. All good, just filled up today, to the very top.

Blake

cheap and effective well done!!!