anyone no where to find a cheap capacitor in brisbane
will be powering 2 x 2 ohm kicker comp 12" powered by a
3000rms 2 ohm amp and 2 alpine type r 6x9 running of a 400 watt amp

You don't need a cap.

I think the 3000WRMS was a typo and if not why did you buy a 2 ohm stable amp and 2x 2ohm subs?? :nuts:

I seen a civic that ran 2 of the big Z series amps ( they have dual 0ga inputs / earths for each amp ) for a total of about 10kw and guess what, no cap....

You don't need a cap.


exactly, good grounding will fix any problems up!

would good grounding stop my headlights flashing to the music?

would good grounding stop my headlights flashing to the music?
good grounding of your amp + other big draining things would yes

would good grounding stop my headlights flashing to the music?
Yes that or thicker cabling from the battery, unless you're pulling so much juice that you're actually pulling more than the alternator/battery can put out, which is what around 120/130 amps? Not sure how much wrms that would be, but i'd imagine it would be quite alot and in that case you should be looking at either a bigger alternator or a 2nd battery.

Google tells me its volts x amps that will give you watts.

Dude age old formula,
P=VI

P - Potential / Power
V - Voltage
I - Current

You have to remember that amps are only 65-80% efficient for a D class and 50-70% for an AB. The rest is heat :D

*reads thread title*

*laughs hysterically*

Yeah that's what I thought, good fun to see what he says when he sees all the crap we have written....

would good grounding stop my headlights flashing to the music?

I can show you my 300odd A earthing kit if you wish??

anyone no where to find a cheap capacitor in brisbane
will be powering 2 x 2 ohm kicker comp 12" powered by a
3000rms 2 ohm amp and 2 alpine type r 6x9 running of a 400 watt amp

Maybe he has one of those boss or ebay amps that really do have 10,000,000,000 watts


Ollie

100 amps @ 12v is 1200w
100 amps @ 14v is 1400w

this is not taking in 2 consideration how efficant the amp is.
Class D ~ 75-85%
Class AB ~ 50%

so if its class AB at 1200w then u are actualy drawing 200amps from the battery.
however should never actualy pump out the full 1200w :)

100 amps @ 12v is 1200w
100 amps @ 14v is 1400w

this is not taking in 2 consideration how efficant the amp is.
Class D ~ 75-85%
Class AB ~ 50%

so if its class AB at 1200w then u are actualy drawing 200amps from the battery.
however should never actualy pump out the full 1200w :)

Incorrect. That is a basic guide as it has been stated that P = VI.

However different amps have the ability to increase the voltage considerably in the input stage. This is why my Audison makes over 600WRMS and will only have a max current pull of 35A. Hell they use a 30A blade fuse on the amp...

Incorrect. That is a basic guide as it has been stated that P = VI.

However different amps have the ability to increase the voltage considerably in the input stage. This is why my Audison makes over 600WRMS and will only have a max current pull of 35A. Hell they use a 30A blade fuse on the amp...
dark_avenger had it right, you can't magically create extra power, power in = power out (this includes 'wasted' energy such as heat produced because of inefficiency).

If you want 600WRMS into a load and the amplifier is 50% efficient (typical A/B) then for 1200WRMS of input power you will end up with ~600W of the input energy transformed into heat energy and ~600WRMS of the input energy into the load.

The current drawn to provide the 1200WRMS input power will vary depending on the input voltage, typical: 1200WRMS @ 14VDC = ~86Amps(RMS)

i'm sorry dude but your wrong. Please look at that P = VI.

If the input voltage is 13.8V yes the amp will only make 483W off 35A. However, what would happen if the input voltage was to be stepped up? ( which is what happens in this amp )Why do you think home theatre amps make a fair bit of power without drawing to much current...

Typically the Audison should run at about 60-65% efficiency which would mean they run at a potential of about 1000W. Your confusing P - Potential with RMS, continuous. Now in that case for the 1000W @ 13.8V it would mean the voltage would need to be about 30V. :D

You could think of it this way, normally it would be P = VI where the Audison is P = 2V.1/2 I. In otherwords it pretty much doubles the voltage and halves the current. As you said, you can't get something for nothing. At the end of the day both amps can make a potential of 1000W, just different ways. Down side to the Audison, little changes in voltages can be noticed, good thing is it saves the charging system from to much grief.

i'm sorry dude but your wrong. Please look at that P = VI.

If the input voltage is 13.8V yes the amp will only make 483W off 35A. However, what would happen if the input voltage was to be stepped up? ( which is what happens in this amp )Why do you think home theatre amps make a fair bit of power without drawing to much current...

Typically the Audison should run at about 60-65% efficiency which would mean they run at a potential of about 1000W. Your confusing P - Potential with RMS, continuous. Now in that case for the 1000W @ 13.8V it would mean the voltage would need to be about 30V. :D

You could think of it this way, normally it would be P = VI where the Audison is P = 2V.1/2 I. In otherwords it pretty much doubles the voltage and halves the current. As you said, you can't get something for nothing. At the end of the day both amps can make a potential of 1000W, just different ways. Down side to the Audison, little changes in voltages can be noticed, good thing is it saves the charging system from to much grief.


lol.

Cummins.
Electronics Technician, ANU.

lol.

Cummins.
Electronics Technician, ANU.

Well that's how I was told it works.

If you care to explain how my amp makes over 600WRMS with only 30A worth of fuse and an 8ga ( 55A ) cable then I am all ears :D:D I'm not trying to start a biff, I am genuinely interested since you obviously do this for a living. It would not be like Audison would lie either, if you look at the current draw on the LRx and VRx being up over 100A for most amps :O

i'm sorry dude but your wrong. Please look at that P = VI.

If the input voltage is 13.8V yes the amp will only make 483W off 35A. However, what would happen if the input voltage was to be stepped up? ( which is what happens in this amp )Why do you think home theatre amps make a fair bit of power without drawing to much current...

Typically the Audison should run at about 60-65% efficiency which would mean they run at a potential of about 1000W. Your confusing P - Potential with RMS, continuous. Now in that case for the 1000W @ 13.8V it would mean the voltage would need to be about 30V. :D

You could think of it this way, normally it would be P = VI where the Audison is P = 2V.1/2 I. In otherwords it pretty much doubles the voltage and halves the current. As you said, you can't get something for nothing. At the end of the day both amps can make a potential of 1000W, just different ways. Down side to the Audison, little changes in voltages can be noticed, good thing is it saves the charging system from to much grief.
Audison LrX 1.1K...1090rms...max consumption 75A...75A x 14.4 = 1080
so does this mean this amp runs at over 100% efficeincy?

house amps running on 240v draw less current because they have much higher voltage.
internaly most of them run at like +-50-60v and most them are not rated to more than 100w
per channel.

it is true that car amps step the voltage up to around +-30v however ur starting voltage is still 12v.