I love polished alloy. And this took me all weekend to polish. Took the opportunity to cut away the extra mounts on the sides of runners 1 and 6. Put your sunnies on to view. And yes - in case anyone asks - I have an EZ manifold on order, and yes I will do the same work on it lol

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/5175/img2917sr2.th.jpg (http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2917sr2.jpg)

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/8152/img2918if9.th.jpg (http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2918if9.jpg)


Before and after side by side.
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/9741/img2919fz7.th.jpg (http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2919fz7.jpg)

Looks awesome mate top work :thumbsup:

Wish I had the time to polish things like that :redface:

WOW! :shock: That looks awesome.
Definatley need the ol' sunnies to open the bonnet now. :cool:

So what's involved / how to ?

:bowdown:

Looks like all the hard work paid off. Looks awesome:thumbsup:

Man that looks sick!
How many hours in total did it take to complete?
And although i am familiar with polishing metal, i'm not sure how to undertake such a large project, how do you get into the creases and stuff man?

Looks fantastic Martin!

But more to the point, how does it compare to the factory manifold in terms of response, power delivery etc.

You are in a priviliged position to compare the RPW manifold to Ian's more innovate job :)

Wow! That's awesome. You'll have to post up some DIY steps for us all mate. Btw, it makes the rest of your car look filthy lol

Wow! That's awesome. You'll have to post up some DIY steps for us all mate. Btw, it makes the rest of your car look filthy lol






:stoopid:

Wow! That's awesome. You'll have to post up some DIY steps for us all mate. Btw, it makes the rest of your car look filthy lol

There's always one....


Looks fantastic Martin!

But more to the point, how does it compare to the factory manifold in terms of response, power delivery etc.

You are in a priviliged position to compare the RPW manifold to Ian's more innovate job :)

Thanks mate. The RPW manifold quite definately adds to low down response but doesn't really kick in till 4,000rpm, when it takes off hard - almost like an old fashioned lumpy cam effect. My tiptronic keeps running into the limiter now cos it can't anticipate the change quick enough. RPW says that I will be getting over and under fuelling right through the rev range now and that it should be tuned to get the best out of it. I'm ahead of them. I have a Haltech Interceptor Platinum going on next week.

The intent was always to get both an RPW and an EZ manifold and dyno them back to back - more to help with the EZ manifold development than anything else. The plan is - once EZ manifold is received - to run all three setups on the car through the dyno - standard manifold, tuned RPW manifold, tuned EZ manifold. That way all at AMC can benefit from defintive answers. Though I suspect we all know that the EZ manifold is THE ONE lol


Man that looks sick!
How many hours in total did it take to complete?
And although i am familiar with polishing metal, i'm not sure how to undertake such a large project, how do you get into the creases and stuff man?

Thanks.

13 hours!!!!! I'll post a how to later if people are really as crazy as me and wanna do the same thing. But the basic steps are:
- use an angle grinder to cut off the unwanted brackets and to remove as much of the sand casting as possible. This is a quick job
- use a Dremel tool with a 60 grit barrel sanding bit to removing the sand casting the grinder couldn't get and to go over the entire manifold to remove the grinder marks. This is a quick job too
- use a Dremel with fine, pointed stone bit to get into creases between runners. Also very quick job
- go back over the entire manifold with a Dremel with 120 grit sanding barrel to smooth the whole thing out. This is a quick job
- now the tedious bit which takes hours and hours. Sand the entire manifold with wet and dry glass paper (using it wet), starting at 240 grit and working down to 2000 grit
- now the cool bit. Use a 200mm bench grinder fitted with loose leaf stitched rag buff and brown polishing compound to polish out the sanding marks. Follow this with a loose leaf polishing buff and white compound to get the final mirror look. This takes less than an hour and is like magic lol
- use the Dremel with a felt barrel polishing bit and use the brown and white compounds from above step to get in between runners
- shut your ears whilst your wife laughs at you the whole time lol
- tell her you just saved $1,300 bucks cos professional polishers charge $100/hour....

Next job; fuel rail! :badgrin:

I assume the polishing compound will stop the alloy oxidising?

Looks fantastic bud!:cool:


The polishing does nothing for performance.... By polishing the manifold you are reducing the surface area for cooling, But being on the outside there is only heat to be absorbed from the motor, hmmmmm maybe you will get LESS heatsoak?????

Looks fantastic bud!:cool:


The polishing does nothing for performance.... By polishing the manifold you are reducing the surface area for cooling, But being on the outside there is only heat to be absorbed from the motor, hmmmmm maybe you will get LESS heatsoak?????
Who said anything about performance gains champ? :nuts:

Who said anything about performance gains champ? :nuts:


Did i say someone did? Just stating a fact.....chump!

Did i say someone did? Just stating a fact.....chump!
Then why bother saying it? I don't think anyone would assume polishing an inlet manifold would provide any gain at all apart from cosmetic.. gains, anyone who does should have their head read.

Who said anything about performance gains champ? :nuts:

I think it might have been in relation to the fitting of the RPW manifold.

Schnell it looks great. I hope you know a tuner cos it will probably take an hour to tune each manifold properly to get full benefit of the gains not to mention the cost involved. :thumbsup: Thumbs up tho, I am ultra keen to find out the torque and power differences between the two manifolds.

Then why bother saying it? I don't think anyone would assume polishing an inlet manifold would provide any gain at all apart from cosmetic.. gains, anyone who does should have their head read.


Well TBH i was actually trying to say you can LOOSE power from doing these mods that are for SHOW only... see where i'm headin?

Well TBH i was actually trying to say you can LOOSE power from doing these mods that are for SHOW only... see where i'm headin?
How do you lose power by polishing the exterior of an inlet manifold? It's not as if it's ceramic coated to prevent heat transfer, it's got that sand cast finish but that would make 2/3rds of f-all difference due to its lack of thickness.

Meh.

damn that looks HOT!

wanna do mine for me too?
pretty please?! hehe

excellent work there matey

somthing that is mirror polished can stay hot easily twice as long as somthing that has a cast/pitted appearance, i'm a sheetmetal tradesman of 14 yrs welder polisher blah blah blah,

constant heat into the manifold with less heat dissapation will mean higher inlet temps.... do the math!

somthing that is mirror polished can stay hot easily twice as long as somthing that has a cast/pitted appearance, i'm a sheetmetal tradesman of 14 yrs welder polisher blah blah blah,

constant heat into the manifold with less heat dissapation will mean higher inlet temps.... do the math!
I'm going to say the difference will be negligible despite that, air doesn't stay in the plenum for very long to be heated up sufficiently anyway. And as I said before "meh".

Next job; fuel rail! :badgrin:

I assume the polishing compound will stop the alloy oxidising?

Polishing compound is no more protective than any other metal polish. Trick is to just run Shine Brite Cloth over the alloy whenever you wash the car


damn that looks HOT!

wanna do mine for me too?
pretty please?! hehe

excellent work there matey

Thanks mate.

Errr...nope lol


somthing that is mirror polished can stay hot easily twice as long as somthing that has a cast/pitted appearance, i'm a sheetmetal tradesman of 14 yrs welder polisher blah blah blah,

constant heat into the manifold with less heat dissapation will mean higher inlet temps.... do the math!
You have GOT to be kidding. It's a Magna, not a Lambo. I did it it cos it looks **** hot. Any supposed performance loss is worth it for my seared retinas every time I open the bonnet lol But to quell your concerns I have just checked with my son at Red Bull F1 and he laughed - says the losses would be so minimal as to be almost unmeasurable.

You have GOT to be kidding. It's a Magna, not a Lambo. I did it it cos it looks **** hot. Any supposed performance loss is worth it for my seared retinas every time I open the bonnet lol But to quell your concerns I have just checked with my son at Red Bull F1 and he laughed - says the losses would be so minimal as to be almost unmeasurable.

exactly what i was thinking, wouldnt make a sniff of a difference, unless you were running an uber lumpy cam with a spastic turbo, even then it would be next to minimal lol

looks awesome tho mate! top stuff, youve inspired me!

No drama given the bonnet scoops :shock:

You have GOT to be kidding. It's a Magna, not a Lambo. I did it it cos it looks **** hot. Any supposed performance loss is worth it for my seared retinas every time I open the bonnet lol But to quell your concerns I have just checked with my son at Red Bull F1 and he laughed - says the losses would be so minimal as to be almost unmeasurable.


Meh... why do i bother....I actually said it looked fantastic, the last point was only there for some not so common knowledge. ill stay in my box....:doubt:

Actually ive almost given up on this place....:cry:

What? Where? I can't see a thing! Just bright blurr in my eyes! :D

Hmmm, what if I paint mine with Chrome paint....hhhmmmmm.....yeeee.....

Did u guys know that today is International Rice Day? Nooo, don't get me wrong, not saying this is rice. Nope, not at all . It's a very bright idea. Pretty actually. :rant:

What? Where? I can't see a thing! Just bright blurr in my eyes! :D



That'd be your cateracts doing that mate lol

That'd be your cateracts doing that mate lol

U've found my medical history!!! I didn't know they had such records in my young days....!!!!
But after I got welding glasses from my grandgrandgrand son-of-a-dog, I was able to admire this brilliant piece of engineering a bit better. I was flabbergasted.
Suggested this mod to Mrs K as well - and my head and face are still bruised and sore. Why do women react in this manner??? I thought they would like anything which shines. :doubt:

looks nice mate, expect some PM's from me about it lol

Looks awesome mate top work :thumbsup:

Wish I had the time to polish things like that :redface:

so you can polish your balls??? hi lol

looking ace

Why do women react in this manner??? I thought they would like anything which shines. :doubt:

They do, it just has to hang around their neck or sit on their finger. Anything else is a big no no. You see, Pam wants a rug, thats ok, $200, i want engine parts. No, cant have them, dont need them. Dont need a rug either i say.


Anyway, great job schnell. I love it!

.


Anyway, great job schnell. I love it!

Thanks mate. Next trick is to get my rocker covers ceramic coated red by the Jet Hot boys (hence reason for buying your rocker covers to use as temps while mine are off being done).

Theeeeennn...RPW Stage 2 cams with worked heads, big springs and vernier gears :badgrin:

Just started mine. So far 2.5-3 hours of sanding with the 60-80gr barrel sanding attachments.

Do you have a tip to stop the stones from clogging up with aluminum? My only one gripe with the stones so far.
Gotten most of the casting off, but my manifold is alot more detailed then yours. which sucks haha.

Also any tips for sanding in the creases to get it really smooth? or is just get in there somehow with the sandpaper till it's done?

']Just started mine. So far 2.5-3 hours of sanding with the 60-80gr barrel sanding attachments.

Do you have a tip to stop the stones from clogging up with aluminum? My only one gripe with the stones so far.
Gotten most of the casting off, but my manifold is alot more detailed then yours. which sucks haha.

Also any tips for sanding in the creases to get it really smooth? or is just get in there somehow with the sandpaper till it's done?

Gotta use lube, aka kero or shellite will do the trick.

Gotta use lube, aka kero or shellite will do the trick.
shellite?
what about WD40 or something? Guy I got it off said to use milk! but was a bit ehhhhh on using milk lol

']shellite?
what about WD40 or something? Guy I got it off said to use milk! but was a bit ehhhhh on using milk lol

Milk will work, WD is a dispersant not a lube, bascially something that doesnt leave a residue will do the trick (no not water either)

Shellite is similar to kero but more potent (read flammable) good for starting fires, i used to use it for TB's

i accidently got carb cleaner on the inlet manifold on my 2nd gen, that took the paint off and made it smooth like there was no tomorrow

i accidently got carb cleaner on the inlet manifold on my 2nd gen, that took the paint off and made it smooth like there was no tomorrow
Carb cleaner will lift paint and also disovle oil but it wont smooth.
Been there done that a thousand times. Must of been all the crap it took off.

I love polished alloy. And this took me all weekend to polish. Took the opportunity to cut away the extra mounts on the sides of runners 1 and 6. Put your sunnies on to view. And yes - in case anyone asks - I have an EZ manifold on order, and yes I will do the same work on it lol

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/5175/img2917sr2.th.jpg (http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2917sr2.jpg)

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/8152/img2918if9.th.jpg (http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2918if9.jpg)


Before and after side by side.
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/9741/img2919fz7.th.jpg (http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2919fz7.jpg)

Looks good man. You have acheived a similar result to what mine is like after the chrome ceramic coating.

Hows ya fingers after all that rubbing etc, i bet they are stuffed lol

Looks good man. You have achieved a similar result to what mine is like after the chrome ceramic coating.

Hows ya fingers after all that rubbing etc, i bet they are stuffed lol
Mine are getting there! unfortunately on my pay rate right now it's not viable for me to go and get it chromed. Although I would love to..This is the next best thing.

Bit late but nice work.

Also - hide that damn ugly bum 4AWG lol

']Just started mine. So far 2.5-3 hours of sanding with the 60-80gr barrel sanding attachments.

Do you have a tip to stop the stones from clogging up with aluminum? My only one gripe with the stones so far.
Gotten most of the casting off, but my manifold is alot more detailed then yours. which sucks haha.

Also any tips for sanding in the creases to get it really smooth? or is just get in there somehow with the sandpaper till it's done?
Ah, see I only used the naroow cone shaped tips to remove the rough casting in the 'valleys' between each runner. So I wasn't using them long enough for them to clog.

Sanding in the creases required a bit of lateral thinking. What you do is go down to your local newsagent and buy a wooden school ruler. You cut a 20mm piece off the end and wrap your wet and dry glasspaper around the the ruler piece. Then use that to sand the creases. To be clear, the edge of the ruler offcut you are using is the bit used for sanding ie., the edge that has the numerics of the ruler marked on it. DON'T use a plastic ruler as this will mark the manifold and cut through the glass paper. To do final polishing in the cracks use round and cone felt tips on your dremel with Autosol polish.

Wait till you see my next project. I have entered an agreement to buy a Benz E430 off a good friend before the end of the year (and yes, the Magna will stay in the family). Now the inlt manifold on that is just ripe for a good polishing - all 8 runners :badgrin:

Then why bother saying it? I don't think anyone would assume polishing an inlet manifold would provide any gain at all apart from cosmetic.. gains, anyone who does should have their head read.

This is a public forum where people jump on to share knowledge. Which is exactly what Trotty was doing, I know he works in the above field and has endless amounts of experience and info to share.

Lucifer, you've taken Trotty's post way out of context, he was just providing some helpfull facts about polished manifolds.. so go smoke some pole if you have an issue, I didn't see anyone else complaining about Trotty's post. :gtfo:

Spent 4 more hours on mine today and my hand is gone lol
Got rid of all the casting marks I dont wanna see and started sanding it down. using the milk really helped too. I used so much of the stone attachments I wore it down completely, twice! Also grinded off the casting marks so now it looks seemless.

Your lucky though schnell, Your manifold is ALOT less figgity then mine!
I polished one runner up and dayyyum....needs tons more work!
What sandpaper did you use too? i.e. what color is it? I have some red sandpaper but I've been using the black sandpaper for automotive use....Dont like it TBH...breaks up too easy.

any more tips tricks lol not that this will be done anytime soon
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/P1310007.jpg

Looks great, have you had it on the dyno since?lol

TUFFTR: I think that's coming along nicely, albeit at a serious time cost. I assume you're only going to do the upper, visible sections?

Shiny... nicely done. :)

I imagine this would be a bit easier to do to a Second Gen SOHC V6 inlet considering there's quite large gaps after every second runner . May have to drop mine in over at our metal workshop and see what can be done...

TUFFTR: I think that's coming along nicely, albeit at a serious time cost. I assume you're only going to do the upper, visible sections?
Upper, lower front, sides, and top of rear area, basically anywhere I can see when its on the car.
Im going this to a TT manifold as it doesn't have the butterfly's in the intake like the N/A ones does as I'm not using them. So yeah just put this on instead. I'f my hands good I'll work on it again tomorrow.

Looks good.
Can of chrome paint will get it finished quicker..... lol..
Either way great effort glad you have the patience for this type of stuff... Me not a chance you wont see me
doing that in a hurry.

Regards

Thats incredible mate, brilliant stuff.

3 hours of sanding tonight and could only complete ONE runner!
good tip is to sand one way, and then sand the opposite way. this will show up any imperfections in the metal, makes it so much easier.

my thumb is royally rooted lol

']3 hours of sanding tonight and could only complete ONE runner!
good tip is to sand one way, and then sand the opposite way. this will show up any imperfections in the metal, makes it so much easier.

my thumb is royally rooted lol

You need one of those little triangle sander things

You need one of those little triangle sander things
might try that tomorrow...got one just didnt think of it lol you need a fine grade of paper though or else it scores the metal. ah well cant hurt to try that

I'd keep going by hand, some machines will leave marks that you will have to get out by hand anyway. Raid your hardware store for anything abrasive; foam sanding pads and blocks are handy, and dremel attachments.
I used to use black wet and dry paper, 400 to start and work out to 1200, using kero ( in a trigger spray) to lubricate as it helps cut too. It is always a slow process but you will get quicker as you go. Try wearing decent rubber gloves if you have precious skin

I'd keep going by hand, some machines will leave marks that you will have to get out by hand anyway. Raid your hardware store for anything abrasive; foam sanding pads and blocks are handy, and dremel attachments.
I used to use black wet and dry paper, 400 to start and work out to 1200, using kero ( in a trigger spray) to lubricate as it helps cut too. It is always a slow process but you will get quicker as you go. Try wearing decent rubber gloves if you have precious skin
That's what I was afraid of.
I'm using black wet and dry atm and I find it cuts heaps better dry then wet. migth be my imagination but also when its wet it just tears easier.
I'm using 140G? or 240G? right now, not sure which but its pretty heavy, then I'll work my way up to 2000G.
Kero....might have some around....if it helps I'll give it a shot.

']
Your lucky though schnell, Your manifold is ALOT less figgity then mine!
I polished one runner up and dayyyum....needs tons more work!
What sandpaper did you use too? i.e. what color is it? I have some red sandpaper but I've been using the black sandpaper for automotive use....Dont like it TBH...breaks up too easy.

any more tips tricks lol not that this will be done anytime soon

Black wet and dry is the only way to go. Yes it shreds more often but you can buy it in finer jumps of grade and it delivers better results overall.

More tips:

go through every grade from 240 down to superfine (or 2000 grade as it is sometimes known)

go to an electrical store that sells fibre optic gear. They sell a glass paper that is the next step on in fineness from superfine. It's designed to smooth the ends of optic fibres after they are cut. If you use this stuff as your final sanding it will cut dow buffing wheel time with the stitched rag

face the fact that your fingers tips and tumb tip will be red raw when you finish. Sma happened to me:cry:

It is all worth it in the end tho. When you rock up to AMC meets or fling the bonnet open at the petrol station the comments and looks you get are great :)

Black wet and dry is the only way to go. Yes it shreds more often but you can buy it in finer jumps of grade and it delivers better results overall.

More tips:

go through every grade from 240 down to superfine (or 2000 grade as it is sometimes known)

go to an electrical store that sells fibre optic gear. They sell a glass paper that is the next step on in fineness from superfine. It's designed to smooth the ends of optic fibres after they are cut. If you use this stuff as your final sanding it will cut dow buffing wheel time with the stitched rag

face the fact that your fingers tips and tumb tip will be red raw when you finish. Sma happened to me:cry:

It is all worth it in the end tho. When you rock up to AMC meets or fling the bonnet open at the petrol station the comments and looks you get are great :)

Thanks for that tip about the glass paper.
I took the manifold to work and put it in the hotwash, dayum, cleaned inside and outside right up of all the oily sludgy crap! not bad for nothing haha
Oh I'm hoping when my engines bay's exposed the manifold isnt going to be the ONLY nice thing people see!
I'll work on it a bit more tonight....see how we go.
Whats the go from keeping it from tarnishing?
I've been told to get it clear coated? Do you know if this is what you do?

Schnell, did you concern yourself alot over pitting?
I have measured some pits to be 0.4mm (very small) but from afar (which it will be viewed) you can't see them.
Wouldnt effect the overall finish would it?
spent another ~2 hours on it tonight. The electric sander defiantly helped get the larger area's smooth though.
now 2 runners down at the first stage of sanding (the worst stage) 4 more runners left!

']Schnell, did you concern yourself alot over pitting?
I have measured some pits to be 0.4mm (very small) but from afar (which it will be viewed) you can't see them.
Wouldnt effect the overall finish would it?
spent another ~2 hours on it tonight. The electric sander defiantly helped get the larger area's smooth though.
now 2 runners down at the first stage of sanding (the worst stage) 4 more runners left!
Hmmm. Didn't have any pits in my casting. But years ago I hand polished the centres of some Simmons B45's and had the same issue. The lesson then was to NOT chase down the pits and try and remove them because you would just uncover more pits in the process. So just stick with trying to get the polished surfaces as level as possible. The shine you get will overpower any pits you might see anyway. Don't forget to post pics when ur finished :)

I don't know if this would help you, here's the link anyway :http://www.briandering.com/polishing.html

and for someone who wants to anodize : http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html

Dayyyyyyummmmmm! over 100 hours of work in that....dayum.
Thanks for the tip schnell, guess theres nothing I can do, You can hardly see it anyway.

Well some "update" pictures even though from the 1st round of sanding you can't tell much has gone on.
Standard
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/TT%20manifold/TTmanistandard4.jpg
Sanded down mostly
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/TT%20manifold/P2030027.jpg
Hotwash at work got rid of 90% of all the oil and crap inside
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/TT%20manifold/P2030041.jpg
Deleted MOST of the lines and stuff on the back of the manifold
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/TT%20manifold/P2030039.jpg
Some spots are still being a cnut
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/TT%20manifold/P2030031.jpg
Only spent an hour on it my hand is kaning after the last few days on this + burning my hand at work didn't help

mate that is epic!!! I reckon some black paint on the lettering would look sweeeeet

mate that is epic!!! I reckon some black paint on the lettering would look sweeeeet
Yep, just gonna do the background in black and sand off the top! :D
1) I recommend doing this if
a) You have no social life
b) Dont have $450 for a polished one
c) Earn piss all

a) You have no social life - Check
b) Dont have $450 for a polished one - Check
c) Earn piss all - Check

Makes me wanna go to the scrappers and grab one off a wreck and spend a few weekends destroying my hands.

']Yep, just gonna do the background in black and sand off the top! :D
1) I recommend doing this if
a) You have no social life
b) Dont have $450 for a polished one
c) Earn piss all

Forgot d tuffy

d) Am Tufftr

Anyways looks good, havent thought of getting it dipped?

a) You have no social life - Check
b) Dont have $450 for a polished one - Check
c) Earn piss all - Check

Makes me wanna go to the scrappers and grab one off a wreck and spend a few weekends destroying my hands.

3rd gen manifold look ALOT easier to work on.
If you have a dremel (or immo SCA tool which works just as good) LOTS of sandpaper (think ive gone through 6 sheets already) a mouse and a drill you'll be sweet.
for the $50 outlay for a manifold and possibly $100 for sandpaper and assorted bits n bobs it's well worth the attempt anyway.

Forgot d tuffy

d) Am Tufftr

Anyways looks good, havent thought of getting it dipped?
Did you miss point c)? :P

yes i reckon you got the tougher of the 2 manifold designs to work on.

yes i reckon you got the tougher of the 2 manifold designs to work on.
Ah. But did I tell you about my next challenge?? My next car is an E430 from a mate. Plan is to polish the inlet manifold on that - eight runners all mashed in around one another!!. Haven't told my wife that we shall not be going out in the eveings for at least oooh 53 weeks while I polish this one lol

you nutter! Getting paid for it? You will need it for the skin grafts at least...

you nutter! Getting paid for it? You will need it for the skin grafts at least...
'Nutter'. That's the kindest compliment I've had all week lol

The E430 will actually be my car when my mate hands it over to me at mate's rates. I've already sussed a hand made (in Bathurst) loud exhaust for it too. Now just gotta see about a pod filter...:badgrin:

The tunability of those standard Merc V8's must be huge. Hope to see it in Members Machines soon :)

i have started to polish and grind mine as well
this is after about 20 hours of sanding and grinding

Nice work!
what stage of sanding are you down to now?
Schnell your insane! After this one thats it for me!

Wow, nice work you two, looks great.

I would have to agree the cast 3rd gen ones are easier to do.

I'm doing my non-standard one slowly. :)

Ah. But did I tell you about my next challenge?? My next car is an E430 from a mate. Plan is to polish the inlet manifold on that - eight runners all mashed in around one another!!. Haven't told my wife that we shall not be going out in the eveings for at least oooh 53 weeks while I polish this one lol


whats the point, they are all covered in plastic anyway. I suppose it would look cool huh? They go like stink those e430. 4.3L 3 valve, twin spark v8 iirc.

']Nice work!
what stage of sanding are you down to now?
Schnell your insane! After this one thats it for me!

i am using 220 at the moment.I have some big grind marks to get out still

i am using 220 at the moment.I have some big grind marks to get out still
Im using 120 which i find aggressive enough to get out deep marks but wont leave MASSIVE gauges (sp?) in the metal.

note - electric sander is GOD just cut my time in half today. Got all 6 runners nice and smooth but now i have to concern my time with the *argh* corners...
Decided I wont worry too much about the lower part as this will not be seen and mainly the top.

']Im using 120 which i find aggressive enough to get out deep marks but wont leave MASSIVE gauges (sp?) in the metal.

note - electric sander is GOD just cut my time in half today. Got all 6 runners nice and smooth but now i have to concern my time with the *argh* corners...
Decided I wont worry too much about the lower part as this will not be seen and mainly the top.

u got a dremmel? their pretty handy too. for tight spots

u got a dremmel? their pretty handy too. for tight spots
The dremel is good for some tight spots but you need the sandpaper to smooth it all out, whats the worst job, the getting rid of the casting marks is easy, its smoothing the metal which is a PITA
I've found now if I fold the sandpaper into a triangle type shape i can sand in some of the corners but damn..

whats the point, they are all covered in plastic anyway. I suppose it would look cool huh? They go like stink those e430. 4.3L 3 valve, twin spark v8 iirc.
Hey mate. Good to hear from you. Thought you'd dropped from sight permanently.

What plastic? First thing to do with any modern car is pull alll that crappy plastic off the engine. I bought an engine, not an Airfix model lol

Yeah, I've been talking to Haltech, and if I take my Interceptor with me from the Magna (which will stay with the AMC through me giving it to my son BTW) I can go from 205kw and 400nm to 220 and 440 in one hit. And then there are these supercharger kits you can get that take it to 320kw and....wait for it...750nm. Ohhhhh Lordy this will be fun :badgrin:

Spent a few more hours on it tonight.
went from 120G right up to 2000 tonight! The other stages dont take very long...
Actually very surprised! took me like just over 2.5 hours.
But in saying that, I'm not done yet, Still need to do all the little corners with the dremel polishing attachment.

I reckon she will look ****en hot in the engine bay dont cha?
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/TT%20manifold/MymanifoldPolished7.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/TT%20manifold/MymanifoldPolished4.jpg

Alas not done yet, but should turn out alright.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/TT%20manifold/MymanifoldPolished5.jpg

Schnell, did you gets your professionally clear coated?
So far just over 20 hours of work for this to get done, still a few more hours yet!

Wasn't that much sun so couldn't tell if it was mirror like or not, umm any ideas for a really really fine polish to bring up the mirrorness of it? Just used the buff attachment with the white compound on the end of the drill

:shock:

Whoa. That's some seriously impressive stuff right there.

:shock:

Whoa. That's some seriously impressive stuff right there.
Thanks mate :)
FYI, My feet and right hand is ****ED!!

Mate that looks sick as!

Thats siiiick Paul. Top stuff there man.

that looks awesome :shock:
would love to do this to the street fighter manifold but i dont have the paitents for that
i didnt know your car was twin tubro? phony are you? :P

OH MY GOD:shock: :shock: I don't care how much hardwork I want one of those badboys. Bloody top effort paul thats immense

OH MY GOD:shock: :shock: I don't care how much hardwork I want one of those badboys. Bloody top effort paul thats immense
Thanks man :) almost makes my cut up fingers worth it :bowrofl: Nah but still alot of effort left in it, Need to get it looking much better then that.

Any advice with using the dremel polishing bits? Never used them before.
FYI, minus the cost of the manifold itself, and the tools as i already had these, I've spent about $90. NOT BAD! About $30 in sandpaper, $30 for the polishing and buffing set, and $30 for misc grinding stones....
if you have the tools....and nothing to do give it a go.....very satisfying indeed

have a look on ebay for the alloy polishing kits they sell as a wheel polishing kit. these cloth buffs with compound are the way to go now, you will get a full mirror finish with them. if you have a bench grinder you can run them on that or on a drill. it's worth spending a few more bucks to get the most out of the work you have done already, and you will use them for polishing lots of things on your car if you get addicted. looks tops so far

have a look on ebay for the alloy polishing kits they sell as a wheel polishing kit. these cloth buffs with compound are the way to go now, you will get a full mirror finish with them. if you have a bench grinder you can run them on that or on a drill. it's worth spending a few more bucks to get the most out of the work you have done already, and you will use them for polishing lots of things on your car if you get addicted. looks tops so far

Yep, already using that mate. Still seems to be some very minor marks in the metal still. Dont really wanna wetsand it AGAIN...
I'm using the kit from bunnings though...any tips/tricks will be much appreciated :)

the stitched mop with grey compound will take out most sanding or grind marks. just keep loading the compound up to it, get it all nice and hot, but you have to work out when to stop and leave a bit of a mark, before you start to reshape the surface by cutting in and create more work. don't let it sit in one spot too long.
stand back a few feet and picture it on the car with other stuff around it - do you need a show finish?
once you use the loose leaf buff with fine compound, heat is good again- make sure you clean it down thoroughly with thinners before going to a finer compound. from here it looks like its good enough to get to mirror with the cloth buffs,
I'd go a green finishing compound with a loose leaf buff once there are no marks in it. lots of rpm.
use thinners again with a soft rag to polish out the residue by hand, this will help take out any final buff marks.
dirty messy mother of a job isn't it?

']
Schnell, did you gets your professionally clear coated?
So far just over 20 hours of work for this to get done, still a few more hours yet!

Wasn't that much sun so couldn't tell if it was mirror like or not, umm any ideas for a really really fine polish to bring up the mirrorness of it? Just used the buff attachment with the white compound on the end of the drill
I didn't bother with clear coat, cos I like nothing better than reshining the manifold once every 3 weeks when I wash the car :)

For final mirror polishing you want to use Josco white compound on your loose leaf wheel (this is what Josco themselves recommend and what I saw recommended on the Supra Forum where I first got the idea from plus many other metal polishing threads I found on the web).

Avoid the Dremel wherever you can as the chuck barrel on it will mark the manifold when the polishing head skips off the surface (and this WILL happen to you at least once and it WILL cost you hours in going back and having to sand and polish the mark out). Repolish your manifold once every 3 weeks using Autosol and terry nappies (available as Oz made Dri Glo brand at BigW fopr a pack of 12).

Where you have to use the Dremel (in the places where the buffing wheel won't reach), use the highest speed with the Josco white compound and small Dremel felt polishing wheels and/or Dremel felt polishing rocket cone barrels. Use 2 hands to steady the Dremel as at high speed it will want to skate off the curved surfaces and mark them with the chuck barrel (see above).

And you don't need anything as nasty as thinners to remove traces of compound residue - meths does the trick, is not nasty and can be drunk in between polishing sessions :-)

One final thing. You WILL find that after you have mirror finished everthing there WILL be parts that will have the odd wave or dip in them that will be highlighted by the mirror polish. I found that no matter how hard you try to manually take these out with the Dremel with barrel sanding attachment (and then reworking the surface by hand with every grade of glasspaper from 240 down to SF), you WON'T get them out without creating new areas of flaw. You may even make some areas worse. It's just a natural consequence of have to have worked down a rough and complex shaped casting to a polished surface. So get it 95% and then leave well alone...

Thanks for the advice schnell....helped alot there...
Buffed it with the dremel attachment yesterday and WOW! really completed it!
but as you said, it does wear out.....
Although through this whole ordeal Ive been using a mixture of SCA and "dremel" parts
What I found...
Sanding;
For $9 you can buy a pack of 6 sanding barrel attachments "Dremel" brand - Highly recommended - lasted ages.
BUT for $13 you can buy a 113 piece pack from SCA with like 10 barrel attachments and polishing attachments and cutting attachments etc. These barrel sanding attachments are CRAP! they are so ****, i was changing them every 4 minutes.

Whereas I also paid $9 for one "dremel" polishing attachment bit, and noticed no difference at all in life or quality compared to the SCA one.

my advice...
Buy the $9 6-pack sanding barrel attachments "dremel" branded - Probaby even 2 packs, they are really good.
but also buy 2 packs of the $13 SCA 113 assortment pack, besides the crappness of the sanding barrels you get tons of other stuff which is worth the money. also get 2 decent grinding stones in each pack so for the $4 more it works out even. Now I have a whole zip lock bag FULL of accessories!

I'm pretty damn happy with it now. Painted the backing black and I'm gonna go sand the excess off now.
As you can see here though from the photo how many scratch's are still left on some parts....hardly noticeable though to the naked eye from afar

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/P2090055.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/P2090058.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/P2090053.jpg

hot, dawg!

that looks hot mate :shock:
not gonna polish the top bit? (where it says "twin turbo")

that looks hot mate :shock:
not gonna polish the top bit? (where it says "twin turbo")
Nope, just painted the bottom black and wire-wheel-brushed the top of it.
Installed it tonight. Have to block off one vacuum line for now and also get an adaptor for another one.
Overall, The effort was so worth it. This is looks so god damn hot.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=990721&postcount=687 :D

old thread but saves starting a new one. started doing mine today. sofar 3hours and just starting to sand it.

what did you do paul after it was finished. did you clear coat it or just left it

old thread but saves starting a new one. started doing mine today. sofar 3hours and just starting to sand it.

what did you do paul after it was finished. did you clear coat it or just left it
3 hours OH YOU HAVE A WHILE LEFT BOY

Nah I left mine. Now that I work at a paint shop I'll get it clear coated I reckon.

']3 hours OH YOU HAVE A WHILE LEFT BOY

Nah I left mine. Now that I work at a paint shop I'll get it clear coated I reckon.
just worked it out 6 hours thus far and only on 340g. stupid scratches everywhere:rant:. the thing that sucks is it has to be back on by monday morning so i can get to tradeskool. looks like it might be a late night.

just worked it out 6 hours thus far and only on 340g. stupid scratches everywhere:rant:. the thing that sucks is it has to be back on by monday morning so i can get to tradeskool. looks like it might be a late night.

What I learnt is make sure you do every stage to the utmost of your ability, the more you sand out now will look better in the end, its not like rubbing back a panel for spraying where you go over the high fill in say 400 then 800 by hand and on goes the paint, with this you gotta go down to 1500 because every imperfection will be seen. Of course, depends how fussy you are.

oh make sure you use a dremel aswell for the corners and stock up on the rounded pointy tip felt polishing bits

']What I learnt is make sure you do every stage to the utmost of your ability, the more you sand out now will look better in the end, its not like rubbing back a panel for spraying where you go over the high fill in say 400 then 800 by hand and on goes the paint, with this you gotta go down to 1500 because every imperfection will be seen. Of course, depends how fussy you are.

oh make sure you use a dremel aswell for the corners and stock up on the rounded pointy tip felt polishing bits


yeah its a pain. um up to 500g starting 2morrow. polished a little section just to see what it looks like and yeah makes it worth while.

just looked at yours and i can still see scratches on the front of the runners.:)

yeah its a pain. um up to 500g starting 2morrow. polished a little section just to see what it looks like and yeah makes it worth while.

just looked at yours and i can still see scratches on the front of the runners.:)
Go to hell lol yeah thats it aye, you think its all out and frig, still scratch's in there, but honestly, when its ON, you cannot tell, unless you go up close and have a look, so eh....It's still good.
Although since its not cleared I can re-work it when I feel like it, not that I will 1) feel like it and 2) be bothered :D

']Go to hell lol yeah thats it aye, you think its all out and frig, still scratch's in there, but honestly, when its ON, you cannot tell, unless you go up close and have a look, so eh....It's still good.
Although since its not cleared I can re-work it when I feel like it, not that I will 1) feel like it and 2) be bothered :D


how many times did you polish it. im starting to polish mine now. i kinda cheated coz i cbf doing the parts you dont see.

how many times did you polish it. im starting to polish mine now. i kinda cheated coz i cbf doing the parts you dont see.
spent about an 70 minutes polishing it with the josco drill attachment until i was happy with the shine.
yeah see I didnt have the car with me so I just guessed as to what bits I'd see and what bit's I didn't :P

']spent about an 70 minutes polishing it with the josco drill attachment until i was happy with the shine.
yeah see I didnt have the car with me so I just guessed as to what bits I'd see and what bit's I didn't :P


when you polished yours did you get marks from the buffer.

when you polished yours did you get marks from the buffer.
mmmmmmm very very small marks yes..

If you get marks from the buffer, just use "Autosol" metal polish, and it removes the buffer marks. Once you finished, just use autosol to keep it looking like new.

well i polished it up. just when you think youve sanded all the little marks out theres more:rant:. cbf doing anymore today so i put it back on and ill work on it after easter.

pics (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62854&page=17)

']spent about an 70 minutes polishing it with the josco drill attachment until i was happy with the shine.
yeah see I didnt have the car with me so I just guessed as to what bits I'd see and what bit's I didn't :P
For people new to this thread, you can cut the polishing time to less than half an hour by using a bench grinder with buffing wheels attached. Also, the large polish area of the buffing wheels and high speed of the bench grinder mean that you end up with no fine scratches. Nice to see others following the lead that me and TUFFTR have set. This is an inexpensive mod that is THE BUSINESS :badgrin:

For people new to this thread, you can cut the polishing time to less than half an hour by using a bench grinder with buffing wheels attached. Also, the large polish area of the buffing wheels and high speed of the bench grinder mean that you end up with no fine scratches. Nice to see others following the lead that me and TUFFTR have set. This is an inexpensive mod that is THE BUSINESS :badgrin:


cheers for the thread. its very helpfull.

Wow... Its the missing link to the Alfa motor... I AM impressed..... i am so doing this next time i gotta change my plugs

Wow... Its the missing link to the Alfa motor... I AM impressed..... i am so doing this next time i gotta change my plugs


if ya want to do it properly get another manifold. as you get sick of doing it after 5hours straight. get another manifold and do it at your own leasure

if ya want to do it properly get another manifold. as you get sick of doing it after 5hours straight. get another manifold and do it at your own leasure
That is what I do with anything I mod to the car, always get a spare, lets you go at your own pace. and allows you to drive the car as is whenever you want, when said mod is done, swap it over and hey presto done

Started work on a TE w/EGR Manifold today, so far I have all the casting join marks off the manifold, let the fun begin again!