Please :)

Hey guys, I'm really wanting to get in and build a realistic system now, none of this "I'm gonna have a really kick-ass system" that I used to be on about :P, I'm hoping to soon get a carPC going, and before that I want to get a decent sound system going. I've realised that I don't need too much, as my Z-5500's at home do the job perfectly, maybe just a bit more tight of a sound in the sub.

I was hoping someone could point me to a few pieces that would satisfy me based on the above statement.
I realise the ratings on the Z's are not that high, but they have very good SQ (to my ears) and still have more than enough volume behind em.

Total RMS power: 505 watts RMS - Satellites: 317 watts RMS (2 x 62 W front, 2 x 62 rear, 69 W center) - Subwoofer: 188 watts RMS

ie. Sub (probably 12"), front 6", rear (currently have 80wrms pioneer 6x9s, would that be sufficient if run off an amp?),
sub amp, 4(?) channel amp.

Thanks a bunch guys

P.S. I will be thrashing it a lot harder and more often than my Z's, incase that counts for anything.

Your current 6x9s are fine - I'd leave them. You're better putting your money towards good front speakers, as that's where you (as the driver) are going to hear your music from.

Wattage ratings don't mean much, and to me should only really be used to make sure your speakers/subwoofers are not grossly under/overpowered by your amplifier. I forget the rule of thumb, but basically a big increase in wattage is required to make a small difference in perceived volume. Even then though, that doesn't necessarily mean a 100w speaker connected to a 100w amp is going to sound better / go louder without distortion than a quality 60w speaker.

It's hard to make any sort of recommendation without a budget. However, I'd recommend a good quality set of front splits, a nice amp (you could get by with a 2 chan and run the 6x9s off your headunit if you desired), a single good quality 12" sub in a suitable box (which could be a custom ported box) and a monoblock to suit.


I think it's too hard to compare a car sound setup with a set of computer speakers. The Z5500s aren't that great. And you become accustomed to what you listen to - when I first did my car stereo, it sounded 'different' (not in a bad way) to my computer setup (bookshelf speakers and amp which I'd had for ages) - so it's hard to make a meaningful comparison IMO.

Having said that, provided you don't completely skimp out on components ($80 6.5" speakers aren't exactly quality), you do some research into what you're going to buy, and you do a decent quality install; I think you'll be quite happy with the outcome.

Your current 6x9s are fine - I'd leave them. You're better putting your money towards good front speakers, as that's where you (as the driver) are going to hear your music from.

Wattage ratings don't mean much, and to me should only really be used to make sure your speakers/subwoofers are not grossly under/overpowered by your amplifier. I forget the rule of thumb, but basically a big increase in wattage is required to make a small difference in perceived volume. Even then though, that doesn't necessarily mean a 100w speaker connected to a 100w amp is going to sound better / go louder without distortion than a quality 60w speaker.

It's hard to make any sort of recommendation without a budget. However, I'd recommend a good quality set of front splits, a nice amp (you could get by with a 2 chan and run the 6x9s off your headunit if you desired), a single good quality 12" sub in a suitable box (which could be a custom ported box) and a monoblock to suit.


I think it's too hard to compare a car sound setup with a set of computer speakers. The Z5500s aren't that great. And you become accustomed to what you listen to - when I first did my car stereo, it sounded 'different' (not in a bad way) to my computer setup (bookshelf speakers and amp which I'd had for ages) - so it's hard to make a meaningful comparison IMO.

Having said that, provided you don't completely skimp out on components ($80 6.5" speakers aren't exactly quality), you do some research into what you're going to buy, and you do a decent quality install; I think you'll be quite happy with the outcome.

Thanks :)
I knew someone was going to point out they aren't great, but they seem fine to me/my hearing, so I think that'll just mean I won't have to spend as much as your systems to be happy with it.

Oh and yeah, I left the budget thing open to see what people would come up with compared to the Z5500s.

I think the hardest part for me would be choosing amps to suit certain speakers, I'm not that good with all the spec's and everything, but If I find a set of speakers that I like I'll probably bring the question of which amp here.

Anyways... Still open to suggestions and specific hardware :)

Hmm compared to the Z-5500's, get a pair of $50 2-Way pioneer 6"s for the front, existing 6x9"s in the rear, and a single 12" sub of more or less any brand with a bridged 2 channel or basic monobloc. In other words, its pretty damn easy to make a system sound as good as Z-5500's, because to me they're not great at music. Good for games, yeah, but we don't usually play video games in the car do we.

As above, a decent pair of splits in the front, the existing 6x9"s just for rear fill, a 4 channel to run the speakers, and a decent monobloc of sorts running something like a 12" JL Audio sub in the boot. Without going overboard, that shouldn't set you back more than maybe $1k for that. Then you'd probably want to invest in some sound deadening materials, unless you don't mind your car rattling to the ****house when your inside listening to your tunes lol

Hmm compared to the Z-5500's, get a pair of $50 2-Way pioneer 6"s for the front, existing 6x9"s in the rear, and a single 12" sub of more or less any brand with a bridged 2 channel or basic monobloc. In other words, its pretty damn easy to make a system sound as good as Z-5500's, because to me they're not great at music. Good for games, yeah, but we don't usually play video games in the car do we.

As above, a decent pair of splits in the front, the existing 6x9"s just for rear fill, a 4 channel to run the speakers, and a decent monobloc of sorts running something like a 12" JL Audio sub in the boot. Without going overboard, that shouldn't set you back more than maybe $1k for that. Then you'd probably want to invest in some sound deadening materials, unless you don't mind your car rattling to the ****house when your inside listening to your tunes lol

Alright yeah thanks
Yeah.. I don't think it's even worth having music if it rattles, it's just horrible.

id split it sopmething like this

$300 for your front splits - hertz, focal, mb quart etc
$400 for a decent HU - Alpine or JVC
$350ish (seoncd hand) for a good 4 chan - most brands in the range are decent but i wouldgo alpine
$350 for a sub an make your own box - hertz, focal, Image Dynamics, Rockford Fosgate, Alpine depending on what you like and how muchg of a brand kid you are ;)

wiring kit and sound deading are of course necessary

could build a great system with that kind of budget :)

id split it sopmething like this

$300 for your front splits - hertz, focal, mb quart etc
$400 for a decent HU - Alpine or JVC
$350ish (seoncd hand) for a good 4 chan - most brands in the range are decent but i wouldgo alpine
$350 for a sub an make your own box - hertz, focal, Image Dynamics, Rockford Fosgate, Alpine depending on what you like and how muchg of a brand kid you are ;)

wiring kit and sound deading are of course necessary

could build a great system with that kind of budget :)
QFT.

$350 for a focal sub might be stretching it, they get exxy. MTX or Infinity make nice subs too.

If you're only running a 4 channel amplifier (Front out running splits, Rear out bridged for sub) then the thump you'll get out of your sub is limited. When I say limited I mean you're not going to get the best bass hit like you would with a dedicated monoblock.

I'd also recommend Eclipse for HU, mine is very nice, lacks a few features but that doesn't worry me, my tuning is done with my amps.

Word to the wise... Don't just throw a box for your subwoofer together, actually take the time to research what volume works best with your subwoofer, dimensions, why you shouldn't make a cubic box, ported/unported etc...

I'm sure Mr Charisma will have something to say later on.

QFT.

$350 for a focal sub might be stretching it, they get exxy. MTX or Infinity make nice subs too.

If you're only running a 4 channel amplifier (Front out running splits, Rear out bridged for sub) then the thump you'll get out of your sub is limited. When I say limited I mean you're not going to get the best bass hit like you would with a dedicated monoblock.

I'd also recommend Eclipse for HU, mine is very nice, lacks a few features but that doesn't worry me, my tuning is done with my amps.

Word to the wise... Don't just throw a box for your subwoofer together, actually take the time to research what volume works best with your subwoofer, dimensions, why you shouldn't make a cubic box, ported/unported etc...

I'm sure Mr Charisma will have something to say later on.

QFT?

No rears?... No way :P
I'm used to surround-ish sound by now, I'm not going back to 2.1
I don't need to pricey of a HU anyway, I'm going to be building a carPC eventually, I'll just get a HU with 2 or 3 RCAs that's decent.

Oh and also, I'm going for jaycar Amps I think, looked at them heaps and I can get them cheaper from Mr CD-R.

As for sub boxes, I'm not the handy type, but I'll get dad to help with building something, he's not the car audio type guy so I'll look into sizes and stuff and fill him in.

Otherwise.. I think liverpool's price list looks alright, maaaybe a bit less on the front, unless that's not a very wise move according to you guys.

Thanks :D

QFT?

No rears?... No way :P
I'm used to surround-ish sound by now, I'm not going back to 2.1
I don't need to pricey of a HU anyway, I'm going to be building a carPC eventually, I'll just get a HU with 2 or 3 RCAs that's decent.

Oh and also, I'm going for jaycar Amps I think, looked at them heaps and I can get them cheaper from Mr CD-R.

As for sub boxes, I'm not the handy type, but I'll get dad to help with building something, he's not the car audio type guy so I'll look into sizes and stuff and fill him in.

Otherwise.. I think liverpool's price list looks alright, maaaybe a bit less on the front, unless that's not a very wise move according to you guys.

Thanks :D
QFT = Quoted for truth.

Use stock rears mate, you only have two ears and they are biased to wherever you're facing, in this case, the front of your car. Music is rarely produced or encoded in more than stereo anyway as far as I know, so the difference is negligible. Rears are a waste of money.

If you're not so keen on spending $350 on front splits, look into the Focal Access range. Particularly the 165A1 model. If you want to spend a bit more, Focal Polyglass 165V1 or 165V2S. From what I see here, Polyglass might be a bit of overkill for you, the Access series really does hold its own.

Jaycar amps should suit your purpose, good bang for buck and such.

QFT = Quoted for truth.

Use stock rears mate, you only have two ears and they are biased to wherever you're facing, in this case, the front of your car. Music is rarely produced or encoded in more than stereo anyway as far as I know, so the difference is negligible. Rears are a waste of money.

If you're not so keen on spending $350 on front splits, look into the Focal Access range. Particularly the 165A1 model. If you want to spend a bit more, Focal Polyglass 165V1 or 165V2S. From what I see here, Polyglass might be a bit of overkill for you, the Access series really does hold its own.

Jaycar amps should suit your purpose, good bang for buck and such.
Oh and another thing while I'm looking at speakers, do 6.5" fit in the door as is with the stocko cover or do you have to get a pod or something? Because I've been told the front's were 6" stock :confused:

i have a jaycar 800wrms mono laying around here if your looking into mono although from the sounds of it 800wrms might be a little bit much

i have a jaycar 800wrms mono laying around here if your looking into mono although from the sounds of it 800wrms might be a little bit much

Anything wrong with it?
What kind of price were you thinking for it?
You can't have TOO much power if the price is right, right? :P

Oh and another thing while I'm looking at speakers, do 6.5" fit in the door as is with the stocko cover or do you have to get a pod or something? Because I've been told the front's were 6" stock :confused:
Take a jigsaw to the plastic mount... Cut it to fit then screw into the plastic, problem solved.

I run a 6" and a 4" in my front doors.

I run a 6" and a 4" in my front doors.
someones hektik yo!


theres nothing wrong with the mono, i just upgraded to 1kwrms thanks to an alpine mrd1005

no idea how much its worth so make an offer brother :) (PM me)

someones hektik yo!


theres nothing wrong with the mono, i just upgraded to 1kwrms thanks to an alpine mrd1005

no idea how much its worth so make an offer brother :) (PM me)
I would.. If you weren't full :P

PM's cleaned out man'g

PM's cleaned out man'g
PM Sent ;)
Tell me if you don't get it though, I sent it as soon as you must've clicked Empty, might've emptied mine at the same time :P

Oh and another thing while I'm looking at speakers, do 6.5" fit in the door as is with the stocko cover or do you have to get a pod or something? Because I've been told the front's were 6" stock :confused:

My speakers are 6.5" and fit OK. They didn't line up with the existing screw holes. When I first did the installation we just used self tapping screws to screw it into the existing plastic, but it was pretty dodgy :doubt:

Easiest solution (and what I did to amend for my sins) is to make a MDF ring to screw your speaker into, then glue/screw that onto the factory plastic speaker holder. Then buy a set of Verada pods for the tweeters :)

My speakers are 6.5" and fit OK. They didn't line up with the existing screw holes. When I first did the installation we just used self tapping screws to screw it into the existing plastic, but it was pretty dodgy :doubt:

Easiest solution (and what I did to amend for my sins) is to make a MDF ring to screw your speaker into, then glue/screw that onto the factory plastic speaker holder. Then buy a set of Verada pods for the tweeters :)
Are they from mitsu?
Where do they go?

Sycrat I'm sort of the same, I love having the "surround" effect of music in the car. Faded nicely its just bliss.
Only speakers i can comment on are the JBL GTO Range of 6x9's, the JL Audio 6x9's (Bit pricey though) and the MTX 6x9's
FOr around the $130 mark you will have some very nice rear fill indeed.

']Sycrat I'm sort of the same, I love having the "surround" effect of music in the car. Faded nicely its just bliss.
Only speakers i can comment on are the JBL GTO Range of 6x9's, the JL Audio 6x9's (Bit pricey though) and the MTX 6x9's
FOr around the $130 mark you will have some very nice rear fill indeed.
Yeah it's good when you get the fades and stuff just right it's awesome, even with my setup atm it's not to bad, but I definately need new splits as even the 6x9's are making the stocks sound crap.

That was about the RRP of my Pioneers, got em at JB at one of their sales for 100-ish. I think they should do, as they're just for fill when I complete everything, and wont need the bass from them, even though it is pretty good, I can get the rear-view shaking (just) running off the HU :D

I'm sure Mr Charisma will have something to say later on.

:bowrofl: I always chime in.

Umm budget dude?

What do you want; 5.1, 2ch stereo? Any particular genre you listen to? :D

:bowrofl: I always chime in.

Umm budget dude?

What do you want; 5.1, 2ch stereo? Any particular genre you listen to? :D

No specific budget.. but something around this looks alright:

$250-300 front splits
$350-450 4chan (looking at 4x100 Jaycar)
$350 Sub
$200 (hopefully) for liverpool_rule_88's 800w Jaycar

Then however much needs to be spent on wiring kits, deadening, and other... misc.

4ch (2front, 2rear), 1 Sub.

Already got 2 80wrms Pioneer 6x9's in back, I'm thinking they should suffice..

Oh, and genre.. Metal, Hard, Rock, Alternative, Bassy crap (sometimes)

Thanks :)

$250-300 front splits
Hertz ESK-165, Boston SX60, Oz V 650S3, Focal 165V1 etc

$350-450 4chan (looking at 4x100 Jaycar)
Audison SRx4?

$350 Sub
Way to many options, Treo, Oz Vector, Hertz, Boston etc all have offerings. Space restrictions?

$200 (hopefully) for liverpool_rule_88's 800w Jaycar

Then however much needs to be spent on wiring kits, deadening, and other... misc.

$250 on bulk pack of Dynamat
$50-100 on cables
$50 on beer
$10 on bandaids

Already got 2 80wrms Pioneer 6x9's in back, I'm thinking they should suffice..

Yeah they will do, you don't sit in the back :cool:

$250-300 front splits
Hertz ESK-165, Boston SX60, Oz V 650S3, Focal 165V1 etc

$350-450 4chan (looking at 4x100 Jaycar)
Audison SRx4?

$350 Sub
Way to many options, Treo, Oz Vector, Hertz, Boston etc all have offerings. Space restrictions?

$200 (hopefully) for liverpool_rule_88's 800w Jaycar

Then however much needs to be spent on wiring kits, deadening, and other... misc.

$250 on bulk pack of Dynamat
$50-100 on cables
$50 on beer
$10 on bandaids

Already got 2 80wrms Pioneer 6x9's in back, I'm thinking they should suffice..

Yeah they will do, you don't sit in the back :cool:

Yeah.. damn under-aged alcohol laws, I'll go for 50 bucks of coke/red bull instead :P

I've got nothing else in my boot atm (except a few tools) and want to keep a fair bit of room, if you're asking about sub size, 12" sounds good to me. I'll have a look at that Audison in a minute.

Are they from mitsu?
Where do they go?

Yeah they're from Mitsubishi. I believe that they're called Delta Pods or something. Any Magna with tweeters had them - so that'd be most/all Veradas, 2002 VR-X, etc etc. My 2001 VR-X didn't, so I had to buy them from spare parts.

They go up on the door... I've attached a pic. They're cheap ($25-$30 for the pair), easy to install (beats tearing up your door trim!) and they look oh so schmick.

Yeah they're from Mitsubishi. I believe that they're called Delta Pods or something. Any Magna with tweeters had them - so that'd be most/all Veradas, 2002 VR-X, etc etc. My 2001 VR-X didn't, so I had to buy them from spare parts.

They go up on the door... I've attached a pic. They're cheap ($25-$30 for the pair), easy to install (beats tearing up your door trim!) and they look oh so schmick.
Yeah, they fit in really well :D.

Also, The SRx sounds good, if it's less than the 4x100 Jaycar, I'd still pay for the jaycar though.

One more thing, I have NO idea how to choose between the splits, I'm guessing its a "Go listen to them" thing right? :)

Yeah, they fit in really well :D.

Also, The SRx sounds good, if it's less than the 4x100 Jaycar, I'd still pay for the jaycar though.

One more thing, I have NO idea how to choose between the splits, I'm guessing its a "Go listen to them" thing right? :)

Yeah go have a listen to them, there is no other way to really say "Yes ill have those!"

Audison has something the Jaycar doesn't, SQ. With amps, its not all about brute power. The Audison SRx range are excellent on the charging system of your car. I run 2x SRx amps with 730WRMS @ 13.8V on tap and it only draws 50A of current due to the input stage being able to raise the input voltage extremely high. Sorry I did forget that the SRx4 is more expensive now, RRP$569 so you would expect to pay around $500 where the Jaycar is $299 or $399 for the digi.

Since the mids are low in the doors, you should keep both mid and tweeter off axis and look at mounting the tweeter in the kick panel.

Ill put an idea in you head. In a mates Madza 3, he has a 4x 50WRMS Jaycar amp and wants new splits up front. We are going to do a 3 way set up - semi active. What we are doing:
Splits: Hertz ESK 163 RRP$392.

Channel 1 and 2 will run the woofers on either side. These will be bandpassed by the headunit and the amp. The headunit will provide the HP and the amp is able to match the standard xovers 500Hz LP but have a steeper slope.

Channel 3 and 4 will be put into the standard 3 way xovers however only the mid and tweeter will be running off there ( of course ). The standard xover will then HP the mids @ 500Hz and blend them in with the tweeters. This also means that the mid and tweeters can attenuate between themselves for better staging. The woofer will obviously have the gain control to match the other speakers.

Because the deck is controlling the HP of the speakers this will also mean that the rears will be HP as well which are running off the deck and the sub will run fine :D

Yeah go have a listen to them, there is no other way to really say "Yes ill have those!"

Audison has something the Jaycar doesn't, SQ. With amps, its not all about brute power. The Audison SRx range are excellent on the charging system of your car. I run 2x SRx amps with 730WRMS @ 13.8V on tap and it only draws 50A of current due to the input stage being able to raise the input voltage extremely high. Sorry I did forget that the SRx4 is more expensive now, RRP$569 so you would expect to pay around $500 where the Jaycar is $299 or $399 for the digi.

Since the mids are low in the doors, you should keep both mid and tweeter off axis and look at mounting the tweeter in the kick panel.

Ill put an idea in you head. In a mates Madza 3, he has a 4x 50WRMS Jaycar amp and wants new splits up front. We are going to do a 3 way set up - semi active. What we are doing:
Splits: Hertz ESK 163 RRP$392.

Channel 1 and 2 will run the woofers on either side. These will be bandpassed by the headunit and the amp. The headunit will provide the HP and the amp is able to match the standard xovers 500Hz LP but have a steeper slope.

Channel 3 and 4 will be put into the standard 3 way xovers however only the mid and tweeter will be running off there ( of course ). The standard xover will then HP the mids @ 500Hz and blend them in with the tweeters. This also means that the mid and tweeters can attenuate between themselves for better staging. The woofer will obviously have the gain control to match the other speakers.

Because the deck is controlling the HP of the speakers this will also mean that the rears will be HP as well which are running off the deck and the sub will run fine :D

Woah! you lost me at bandpassed :P
As for the SRx4, I think it's a bit pricey for me, for now I'll stick with the jaycar, which I can hopefully get at wholesale from Mr CD-R aswell, however much that'd be, it sounds good :D

Woah! you lost me at bandpassed :P
As for the SRx4, I think it's a bit pricey for me, for now I'll stick with the jaycar, which I can hopefully get at wholesale from Mr CD-R aswell, however much that'd be, it sounds good :D

Jaycar is still a decent amp, but if you could stretch it would be worth it.

Bandpass means the speaker has a HP and LP filter applied. With these speakers you want to be able to control them as much as possible. Basically the way I mentioned you would be:

Sub - LP by the Amp @ 65-100Hz
Woofer - HP @ 80 / 100 Hz by Headunit
LP @ 500Hz by the amp
Mid - HP @ 500Hz by the xover
LP @ 2.5kHz by the xover
Tweeter -HP @ 2.5kHz by the xover

2 ways are a little easier if you are not comfortable. As long as they are decent, they will perform very well.

Jaycar is still a decent amp, but if you could stretch it would be worth it.

Bandpass means the speaker has a HP and LP filter applied. With these speakers you want to be able to control them as much as possible. Basically the way I mentioned you would be:

Sub - LP by the Amp @ 65-100Hz
Woofer - HP @ 80 / 100 Hz by Headunit
LP @ 500Hz by the amp
Mid - HP @ 500Hz by the xover
LP @ 2.5kHz by the xover
Tweeter -HP @ 2.5kHz by the xover

2 ways are a little easier if you are not comfortable. As long as they are decent, they will perform very well.
So.. basically you block out the stuff you don't want to hear on each speaker.. Yeah that does sound really good actually, I'll see what happens money-wise.. Do all Headunits have the HP applied? Or is it a special feature that you need to manually set up and is only on some units?

Cheers!

Most headunits will have a HP filter that you can use yes. The better ones have a choice of Hz you can use. :D

I bought the ESK165's!
They were on special as I saw in a catalogue, went to have a look at them this morning, they were absolutely awesome, and were for some reason being run off the deck =\, but it sounded wicked, and perfect for me!.

Picked em up for 199, normally (at this store) 259.

Still yet to install them, I'll get it done when I rip the doors apart again for my door cards.

But for the moment will be running off the deck.

Oh and the audio guy there tried to sell me the hertz energy 6x9s... He said "Oh what have you got in the back?" I told him the pioneers I've got "Oh these will sound like **** if you have those in there, you need the hertz ones for it to sound any good etc." I just said I don't have anymore dough atm, but I'll come back to him later.. Maybe.. :P.

When I get them installed, I'll write a little review thingy maybe.

Cheers!

Oh, forgot to ask, never installed front speakers before, but know how to get the trim off, any tips? Especially with the Xovers, no idea what I'm going to do with them..

Just replacing stock speakers.. Hopefully it shall go good :)

Oh, forgot to ask, never installed front speakers before, but know how to get the trim off, any tips? Especially with the Xovers, no idea what I'm going to do with them..

Just replacing stock speakers.. Hopefully it shall go good :)

Good on you for finally some speakers you like!

Door trim will require you to remove 3 screws. One is located in the air vent when you open the door ( it is visable ), second is hiding under a little plastic cover in the handle where you put your hand to shut your door, and the last is under the pull handle ( visable when you pull the handle ). Once all 3 screws are out you will need to remove you window winder or Auto controls. Window winders has a little W clip under the rubber that needs to be free to come off. Auto windows are held in by clips, just lift the panel and un-plug the harness.

Now that everything is free, in the middle of your door trim there is a little slot, insert a flat head screw driver and lever it free gently!! The virgin clips will make an almight creek but they will free. Lift and the door trim is gone.

Xovers usually are easily mounted behind the centre console behind the ash tray or in the kick panels.

Good on you for finally some speakers you like!

Door trim will require you to remove 3 screws. One is located in the air vent when you open the door ( it is visable ), second is hiding under a little plastic cover in the handle where you put your hand to shut your door, and the last is under the pull handle ( visable when you pull the handle ). Once all 3 screws are out you will need to remove you window winder or Auto controls. Window winders has a little W clip under the rubber that needs to be free to come off. Auto windows are held in by clips, just lift the panel and un-plug the harness.

Now that everything is free, in the middle of your door trim there is a little slot, insert a flat head screw driver and lever it free gently!! The virgin clips will make an almight creek but they will free. Lift and the door trim is gone.

Xovers usually are easily mounted behind the centre console behind the ash tray or in the kick panels.

Haha sorry I was excited and musn't have phrased correctly, I know how to get the trims off already :P thanks though, what happens with the cabling? I assume there's cables that could just hook straight on to the speaker already there, but because of the crossovers... what will happen with the cable? Run the stuff that's already there into the xover and then out to the speaker?

Cheers

Oh and I have no idea how to get most of the centre console out, so that could be a problem too.