Hi all,

I know a lot of you are going to scream DONT DO IT!

But basicly since the little incident on the m5 (http://aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58461) I have decided to mod my headlights and replace the lamps with HID's.

The reasons for this are:

My headlights are pissweak (practical mod)
The colour of hallogen beams piss me off (personal preference mod)
and I have always liked the way they look on other cars (visual mod)

So, after looking through the headlamps faq (http://aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57256) I have a couple of questions.

Now, my questions are:

How much am I looking at to upgrade to retrofitted HID's (Parts and Installation)?
Where can I get the parts required?
What is the expected life of a retrofitted bulb?
and Whom will do the installation for me if I am uncomfortable doing it myself?

I'd go talk to an Auto Electrician.
Ask around, see if your friends/family in your area have a recommended one.
Then ask the Auto Elec. if they've done one before or if they know someone who has.

PM heathyoung ..................... he'll know :D

No, the majority are going to scream don't get a HID KIT. A retrofit done properly consists of bulbs, ballasts and projectors.

Anyway as a first step... Since you have standard executive headlamps, I would STRONGLY recommend getting a pair of Philips Rally 100/90 H4 and Philips Rally 100W H1 halogens and a relay harness to suit. Harness is around $100 for a very well done one, and bulbs are around $30 or so for all of them.

I have tested a few decent (all of them are the same cheap chinese bulbs and ballasts) H4 kits, there are single beam and bixenon ones (a few of the bixenons get STUCK in the highbeam position, not desirable) and they are only close to the 100/90's in terms of output, but not beam pattern or highbeam output (the reflection from white signs is incredible!).

If you have your heart set on a kit, the ones on ebay (mars yellowpack - I have no afiliation with the seller, I have tested their kits/ballasts before they and are decent). Get a single xenon 4300K (not 5000K,6000K,8000K etc. they get dimmer as the kelvins increase) and see what you think. Personally losing the dual highbeams (spead highbeam from H4, distance from H1) sucked when I did it, but its up to you).

Personally - a set of the overwatt halogens + relay harness is all I am using at the moment, I do a heap of country driving at night with work, and the HID retrofitted headlamps is on my wife's car. I've done a few harnesses for people (using quality parts you make stuff all from it so I only do this to help out) and supplied the bulbs, no-one has ever complained about being in the dark again :)

Harness is around $100 for a very well done one, and bulbs are around $30 or so for all of them.

Personally losing the dual highbeams (spead highbeam from H4, distance from H1) sucked when I did it, but its up to you).



Few questions for you Heath....

First, I thought relay harnesses were quite cheap, like $15, not $100? I am thinking of getting a HID kit too :redface: from ebay, and looking at getting the hi-low beam ones. But why would you lose the dual highbeams if you get a HID kit. Or is this only if you get low beam only HID's???

Also, I like the power of the high beams, do you think it would still be worthwhile getting a relay for the high beam after doing the HID kit? Reason I ask is, that with the HID's they run off a relay also, so the stock wiring will only have to power the single high beams instead of the usual low beam and dual high beam. Would this make putting a relay in for the H1 highbeams not very worthwhile??

Cheers,

Ollie

Firstly,
you don't need relays to run HID's. They only run 35watts. much lower than halogens. And nowhere near as hot either.

I've installed about 20 kits in various cars.... They are completely plug and play. They wire up to your battery, and plug into one of your halogen headlight plugs Plus with the Retractable Hi/Lo's they have two extra wires (single plug) which run to the controller (Which sends the signal from your high beam switch on your stalk to operate the solenoid to flick it to high beam)

I have never been pulled over, flashed by other drivers or defected for them and it passes rego inspection every time. I've even been pulled over by the roadside RTA inspectors with a 6000k kit and they didn't even worry them... they knew they were HID's!!
They are the best thing since sliced bread!!
Driving at night will never be the same again. In fact you could find yourself purposely driving at night as they are that good!!!

I also recommend the 4300k colour temp bulbs like Heath, whatever they are going to be installed in. BUT 6000k make all the road reflectors and street signs glow even more than the 4300k's it's like they are powered!!!!!!

I wouldn't install them in my TJ VR-X's Parras though without adjusting them waaaaay down... which negates the advantages of HID's. They have a terrible beam pattern.

I installed a kit in my Evo Lancer and they are the retractable bulb H4 Hi/Lo kits available on Ebay. BUT they are the Magnetic solenoid type, not the motorised type and they are a particular bulb manufactured by a mob in China.
There are bulbs where the low beam is HID and the high beam is a little halogen blue coated bulb (Cheap but effective) and more expensive ones that run 4 ballasts as the bulbs have two capsules each (one for hi the other for low - can be expensive)

Now there is a huge difference in the quality of the bulbs for the retractable ones.
Plus there are ones that tilt the bulb itself.

I found a guy in China that has a particular style and ordered 30 sets. and I have only got a return on one of them.... (He did a self install and mounted the ballasts inside the engine bay. after I expressly told him not to) they don't like engine bay temps.
All the others are very happy with theirs.

My sets were kit + installed for $350 AUD. I only have 1 set left and I'll use that for spares if I ever need to... not that I have as of yet.

If you need a pic on what bulbs to look for PM me your email and I'll send you two pics.

Beware, a lot of the Bi -xenons on Ebay are the crap ones. I know I've tested 4 sets and they are all bung... the bulb doesn't move far enough.
To explain:
The good ones had the permanent magnet connected to the bulb and the coil around the outside... Very smooth and reliable. The magnet wasn't held back by the coils wires.

The crap ones had the magnet on the outside and the coil on the movable bulb.... the wires restricted the movement, plus the base on the bulb wasn't waterproof, and it cracked due to engine bay temps. VERY BAD!!!

If installed correctly, the bulb will last longer than the car... it's the ballasts that sometimes occasionally go bad... again due to poor installation. They need somewhere cool (Like inside the bumper etc) and mounted on some shock absorbing rubber/foam. (sometimes comes with this in the kits)

Again If you need some help I'd be too happy to help show you the better kits out there...

They are soooooo cheap now too.... get them for under $120AUD delivered!!!! Better than some ****ty Halogen crap for $65.... I would never pay that much for a halogen bulb... don't care what features it has.....
When the HID kits first became available as aftermarket parts they went for about $1500-$1800 each!!!!!!

Steve

Hi Steve,

Which kit would you recommend for Diamond White(6000k) -- must be ISO and E-mark certified, links would be appreciated.

heathyoung (http://aussiemagna.com/forums/member.php?u=228): Still thinking of you, noted down the Mars yellowpack. Just getting some different opinions :)

Thanks,
Dean

Firstly,
you don't need relays to run HID's. They only run 35watts. much lower than halogens. And nowhere near as hot either.

I've installed about 20 kits in various cars.... They are completely plug and play. They wire up to your battery, and plug into one of your halogen headlight plugs Plus with the Retractable Hi/Lo's they have two extra wires (single plug) which run to the controller (Which sends the signal from your high beam switch on your stalk to operate the solenoid to flick it to high beam)

I have never been pulled over, flashed by other drivers or defected for them and it passes rego inspection every time. I've even been pulled over by the roadside RTA inspectors with a 6000k kit and they didn't even worry them... they knew they were HID's!!
They are the best thing since sliced bread!!
Driving at night will never be the same again. In fact you could find yourself purposely driving at night as they are that good!!!

I also recommend the 4300k colour temp bulbs like Heath, whatever they are going to be installed in. BUT 6000k make all the road reflectors and street signs glow even more than the 4300k's it's like they are powered!!!!!!

I wouldn't install them in my TJ VR-X's Parras though without adjusting them waaaaay down... which negates the advantages of HID's. They have a terrible beam pattern.

I installed a kit in my Evo Lancer and they are the retractable bulb H4 Hi/Lo kits available on Ebay. BUT they are the Magnetic solenoid type, not the motorised type and they are a particular bulb manufactured by a mob in China.
There are bulbs where the low beam is HID and the high beam is a little halogen blue coated bulb (Cheap but effective) and more expensive ones that run 4 ballasts as the bulbs have two capsules each (one for hi the other for low - can be expensive)

Now there is a huge difference in the quality of the bulbs for the retractable ones.
Plus there are ones that tilt the bulb itself.

I found a guy in China that has a particular style and ordered 30 sets. and I have only got a return on one of them.... (He did a self install and mounted the ballasts inside the engine bay. after I expressly told him not to) they don't like engine bay temps.
All the others are very happy with theirs.

My sets were kit + installed for $350 AUD. I only have 1 set left and I'll use that for spares if I ever need to... not that I have as of yet.

If you need a pic on what bulbs to look for PM me your email and I'll send you two pics.

Beware, a lot of the Bi -xenons on Ebay are the crap ones. I know I've tested 4 sets and they are all bung... the bulb doesn't move far enough.
To explain:
The good ones had the permanent magnet connected to the bulb and the coil around the outside... Very smooth and reliable. The magnet wasn't held back by the coils wires.

The crap ones had the magnet on the outside and the coil on the movable bulb.... the wires restricted the movement, plus the base on the bulb wasn't waterproof, and it cracked due to engine bay temps. VERY BAD!!!

If installed correctly, the bulb will last longer than the car... it's the ballasts that sometimes occasionally go bad... again due to poor installation. They need somewhere cool (Like inside the bumper etc) and mounted on some shock absorbing rubber/foam. (sometimes comes with this in the kits)

Again If you need some help I'd be too happy to help show you the better kits out there...

They are soooooo cheap now too.... get them for under $120AUD delivered!!!! Better than some ****ty Halogen crap for $65.... I would never pay that much for a halogen bulb... don't care what features it has.....
When the HID kits first became available as aftermarket parts they went for about $1500-$1800 each!!!!!!

Steve

Thanks heaps for that post, VERY helpful :) I got a bit mixed up about the relay bit that I said before, but basically what I was trying to say is that it doesnt use the standard wiring for power (comes direct from battery) so it puts less load on the stock wiring, so still thinking its probably worth keeping it stock for the extra high beams.

I have been meaning to get them for some time now, but I think it will be soon! If you have any quality ones you know of on ebay please let me know, otherwise I will shoot you a PM when I get around to finding one I think is good.

Cheers,

Ollie

Yeah, thats a pretty good summary, there is a lot of crap out there on fleabay.

I must have tested the crappy high/lows, the ones you have sound pretty decent.

Ballasts are designed to go in an engine bay BTW - this is where they live normally in an OEM installation - I have never had issues with this - very odd.

4300K for brightness (3400 lumens) or 6000K (2800 lumens) for looks.

Relay harness is usually included in a HID kit (well I hope so anyway!) so you dont need one.

A decent relay harness (the ones I make) we are talking about consists of heavy cable (3mm2), gold plated lugs for earths, phenolic (not instamelt nylon :nuts: ) plastic headlamp connectors (4 of at $15 each with solid wiring) quality 30A relays (hella or bosch fused) 2 of at $13 each, soldered and covered with double-wall heat melt glue heatshrink, and convoluted loom tubing and you can see how it adds up very quickly to do it properly.

Add a pair of serious rally bulbs and you have something that can outshine HID kits for around the same price.

For a single highbeam app, you are looking at half the price (basically). The highbeams H1 at 55W do have a voltage drop, put a 100W in there and you will end up with yellow light :)

Hi Steve,

Which kit would you recommend for Diamond White(6000k) -- must be ISO and E-mark certified, links would be appreciated.

heathyoung (http://aussiemagna.com/forums/member.php?u=228): Still thinking of you, noted down the Mars yellowpack. Just getting some different opinions :)

Thanks,
Dean

Hey Dean,

I found one that is the same kit I used... It's called "HID Cool"
E certified and ISO.
I would go 6000k as they look much cooler than 4300k... but for sheer grunt 4300k is good. 6000k look much brighter on the road.
Linky:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230250976808&rd=1

Also Ask if the bulbs are EXACTLY like the one I've pictured. If not WALK AWAY!!!!
They are a little more expensive than most kits on Ebay... but if you get these EXACT BULBS they work great!!!
NOTE: This auction is for the Bi-Xenon H4 High and Low beam (Executive headlights I'm pretty sure.

If you're going to install into a H1 or H7, Say into Parras, there are no moving parts so you can't go too wrong....But from memory you MAY have to do slight mods to the headlight where they clip into the holders.
Also you can go the 4th Generation ballasts which are super thin....

My advice.... Get Gen 3 as the ballast and igniter are all in one unit (Simplifies wiring and looks neater....

The HID kits don't have relays, the whole system uses the stock relays in the car, (plenty powerful enough!!! ) and only needs one of the plugs where you once had a halogen bulb. The controller (Another little box on the harness the kit comes with runs the high beams...)
Here's a pic of my kit....

Cheers

Steve
PS: if you need help finding a kit lemmie know (The link above is the same kit as I purchased. BUT please before you buy find out if they are the bulbs that I've pictured...
as I've only really had trouble with the crappy H4 Bi-Xenon HID's not the H1 or H7 bulbs....

Here's a picture of the crappy ones I'm ranting on about:
There are subtle differences in the black bases.... they don't shift the bulb far enough, crack from the heat in engine bays and they are NOT water proof....

STAY AWAY FROM THESE ONES:

If you put them into Parras you will need to make up a plastic spacer to go in the headlight assy.

in considering getting some of these for my cressida, which HID's offer the best compromise between distance and looks

If you put them into Parras you will need to make up a plastic spacer to go in the headlight assy.

how big is the spacer cause I'm looking at getting at set

i'm getting some for my parra's.. a kit from Ebay is about $80.. with change.. takes about 10 mins to install..

it's all plug and play.. you only need to make sure it's relativley water resistant and the balasts are in a secure spot.. ie - zip tie them to somthing..

and personally i wouldn't go any higher than 6000k.. anymore and the colour is too blue and doesn't actually light up very well.. 35w 6000k are plenty.. if your crazy and want to blind ppl you can use 55w ones.. but they are pretty full on..

I managed to get the H7 kits to fit without too many problems in the parabolics - you need to either cut down the stock H7 holder (no, dont do it), or get creative with a dremel on the old H7 bulb you removed - it only needs to be about 1mm thick - if you cut rings out of aluminium and filed them to fit it wouldn't be an issue.

heathyoung,blackbird could i please get your opinion's on the kit's made by this company http://www.auraxt.com.au/ ,i've spoken to the distributor of these and he reckon's he tried about 30 diffrerent components to come up with this kit,it's $499 installed for H4,12 month warranty blah blah blah,also will HID's be ok in a TL/TW headlight in term's of glare to other driver's?

heathyoung,blackbird could i please get your opinion's on the kit's made by this company http://www.auraxt.com.au/ ,i've spoken to the distributor of these and he reckon's he tried about 30 diffrerent components to come up with this kit,it's $499 installed for H4,12 month warranty blah blah blah,also will HID's be ok in a TL/TW headlight in term's of glare to other driver's?

Matey,
For that price you could get a H7 kit from Ebay X 5....For an extra $50 you get a Bi-Xenon HID kit too... Dunno what bulbs are in the TL/TW's Never looked.

Don't waste your time... and $$
some places still charge $1000 for a kit you can get (Identical) for $100 on ebay....
Don't waste your money on this guys product. over priced.

As for your TL/TW... you MAY have to adjust your low beams again to make sure they aren't going sky-ward.

Steve

I managed to get the H7 kits to fit without too many problems in the parabolics - you need to either cut down the stock H7 holder (no, dont do it), or get creative with a dremel on the old H7 bulb you removed - it only needs to be about 1mm thick - if you cut rings out of aluminium and filed them to fit it wouldn't be an issue.

Heath,
Just wondering as I've never installed the H7's into a set of Parras, why do you need the spacer... does the bulb hit the reflector inside?? or is the beam pattern get horrible without the spacer...
All this talk of HID's is making me think of getting a kit for the VR-X!!!

Cheers
Steve

Heath,
Just wondering as I've never installed the H7's into a set of Parras, why do you need the spacer... does the bulb hit the reflector inside?? or is the beam pattern get horrible without the spacer...
All this talk of HID's is making me think of getting a kit for the VR-X!!!

Cheers
Steve

No, the spacer is not for clearance, it is to get the correct tension on the wire clip bulb holder (the OEM H7 bulb retainer is much taller) if you dont add the spacer, the tension is too low and the bulb wanders around the housing (with bad results).

No, the spacer is not for clearance, it is to get the correct tension on the wire clip bulb holder (the OEM H7 bulb retainer is much taller) if you dont add the spacer, the tension is too low and the bulb wanders around the housing (with bad results).

Ohhhhh thanks champ.... I can picture what bad results would occur!!! LOL

Steve