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View Full Version : Tyre Pressure & Sump Removal Advice Needed



bennoc
21-05-2008, 09:08 AM
I was putting air into my tyres the other morning and the plate inside the door tells me that the front should be 26psi and the rears 29??? I don't know much about that kind of thing but to me that sounds ridiculously low! What is the ideal pressure to run them at? I currently have the stock standard ones that came with my TF

Also as I can't be bothered forking out $100 to have my car put on a hoist at a mechanic and have the sump plug taken out, I am going to take the sump off and once it's off get a better grip and take it off myself. I know it's going to be incredibly messy but what I want to know is if it will do any damage taking it off and if there is anything I should watch out for!

Gerard
21-05-2008, 09:11 AM
tyre pressure around 32-35 is where they want to be

perry
21-05-2008, 09:19 AM
if the sump plug won't come out, put the car on ramps and spray some wd-40 on it (or simmlar). the if it won't budge use a hammer and give it a bit of a tap

bennoc
21-05-2008, 10:15 AM
Done the spraying it with WD40 and tapping it with a hammer thing but the plug still won't come out. Maybe I am trying to turn it the wrong way I don't know thats why I'm thinking of just pulling the whole sump out because of my lack of tools (only have a jack no ramps)

Schnell
21-05-2008, 10:16 AM
Factory recommednded tyre presure settings for Magnas have traditionally been low to help give the the brilliant ride quality they have. Running them higher will give you way better handling, just be prepared for the trade off in a harsher ride. As others have said here, settings somewhere in the 30's give good results. My tip would be to always run 2-3 PSI more in the fronts to help dial some of the understeer inherent in the FWD Magna chassis

perry
21-05-2008, 11:22 AM
Done the spraying it with WD40 and tapping it with a hammer thing but the plug still won't come out. Maybe I am trying to turn it the wrong way I don't know thats why I'm thinking of just pulling the whole sump out because of my lack of tools (only have a jack no ramps)

try a different mechanic, they shouldn't charge you that munch to take out the sump plug

TL-R
21-05-2008, 11:24 AM
try a different mechanic, they shouldn't chard you that munch to take out the sump plug

HAHA - I'm sure that's for a minor service too!

perry
21-05-2008, 11:30 AM
HAHA - I'm sure that's for a minor service too!

lol, they ll charge like wounded (spelling) bulls though

Life
21-05-2008, 12:01 PM
Is it bad that I use 42psi on the 15" stockies?

ar3nbe
21-05-2008, 12:26 PM
WD-40 is pretty crap, try something that freezes the bolt, something like "roast off" or similar (cant think of other names, but, Bunnings, Repco etc all sell it).

Secondly, are you using a socket, or a spanner ? Due to the shape of the plug, I suggest using a spanner, the longer, the better in order to gain more mechanical advantage.

As for tyre pressues, I run about 42psi in the front, 38ish in the back. Any less than this, and the handling becomes much worse (side wall flex). Btw, there for my stock 16s.

MitchellO
21-05-2008, 01:00 PM
When my stepdad and I changed my oil a few weeks ago the sump plug was a s*** to get off, but with some determination with the spanner it finally came loose.

I've been running 34psi in my tyres, even though the plaque says 29psi, and it does make a difference in handling, but does compromise ride. I might try going a bit higher, see what that's like.

i286
21-05-2008, 01:03 PM
Is it bad that I use 42psi on the 15" stockies?


Sure it is.
Because your tyres are over inflated, contact (footprint) between tyre and the road is smaller, therefore handling, braking and comfort are affected (worse).
Also centre of the thread wears faster than the sides which means shorter tyre life.
This is just simple, short explanation why over inflation is not good.

http://www.tmarts.com.au/pdf/Guide_To_Tyre_Care_And_Safety.pdf

http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html

ar3nbe
21-05-2008, 01:05 PM
Sure it is.
Because your tyres are overinflated, contact (footprint) between tyre and the road is smaller, therefore handling, braking and comfort are affected (worse).
Also centre of the thread wears faster than the sides which means shorter tyre life.
This is just simple, short explanation why over inflation is not good.

http://www.tmarts.com.au/pdf/Guide_To_Tyre_Care_And_Safety.pdf

http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html

Thats assuming that at that pressure the tyres are over inflated. Sometimes, theory isnt always right. With tyre pressures above 40psi, the centre of my tyres are fine.

i286
21-05-2008, 01:39 PM
Thats assuming that at that pressure the tyres are over inflated. Sometimes, theory isnt always right. With tyre pressures above 40psi, the centre of my tyres are fine.

We are talking about 205/65/15 here and @ 42 psi they are over inflated.

Screamin TE
21-05-2008, 03:58 PM
WD-40 is pretty crap, try something that freezes the bolt, something like "roast off" or similar .

dude, its "rost off" and the one you are talking about is "rost off ice". Most places don't se;; the wurth brand product. The equivalent would be loctite freeze.

Making sure you have the right tool for the job will make it a lot easier too. The spanner/socket size you need is 24mm. You dont try making babies with your big toe huh?

Nemesis
21-05-2008, 04:29 PM
Its a shame you're in QLD because I have cans and cans of ROST-OFF Ice here at work.

You might be able to find CRC-Rust Remover - that should work aswell.

MadMax
21-05-2008, 04:35 PM
Rounded off sump plug? Use an angle grinder and start slicing - carefully. When the head is really thin it will be loose. Just don't damage the sump itself. Torque a new plug to the correct torque - 45Nm if I remember right.

Lucifer
21-05-2008, 04:41 PM
Rounded off sump plug? Use an angle grinder and start slicing - carefully. When the head is really thin it will be loose. Just don't damage the sump itself. Torque a new plug to the correct torque - 45Nm if I remember right.
That is the single most ****ing dumb idea I have ever heard, do you know how flammable oil is?

magna00
21-05-2008, 04:45 PM
That is the single most ****ing dumb idea I have ever heard, do you know how flammable oil is?

not as flammable as your post



Zing :P

anyways if you have rounded the head of the sump plug, i have used a file to get some kind of edge on them, then use some loctite Freeze and release, a rattle gun turned right up usually does the trick.

Screamin TE
21-05-2008, 04:54 PM
That is the single most ****ing dumb idea I have ever heard, do you know how flammable oil is?


not very.

Oil has a very high flashpoint, which means it needs a high temperature ignition source to ignite. If you dont believe me, put a bit of oil in the bottom of a container and drop a lit match in.

Have a look at the pic, column third from the left is the flashpoint temp in Fahrenheit i would imagine as it is an American site.

heres the link (http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html)

Lugo
21-05-2008, 05:02 PM
I'm running 40PSI, used to run 34PSI but it was still a bit soft imo, 40PSI is still comfy but it handles much much better than it used to, particularly in the wet. Note that when you lose traction it doesn't make things any better, as I discovered the other night in the wet lol

[TUFFTR]
21-05-2008, 05:21 PM
"Righty Tighty Lefty Loosey"
Thats how i remember if I'm taking off a Bolt the right way or not

Nemesis
21-05-2008, 06:02 PM
Thats the same thing I told Boozer when he was doing his brakes. :D

MadMax
21-05-2008, 06:35 PM
From past experience, the angle grinder trick on the rounded sump plug will NOT cause a fire. SO THERE smart*ss!

MadMax
21-05-2008, 07:07 PM
Also consider the rapid conduction of heat away from the sump plug through the metal of the sump, and convection currents in the oil itself. The whole sump would have to glow red hot before the oil would start to smoke and be in danger of ignition.

Lucifer
21-05-2008, 07:28 PM
Then why is it the buckets of oil I've dropped matches into have always burned... and burned... and burned? And what if the sump you're grinding into is leaking? Shower of sparks would light that up pronto.

brb setting fire to my brother's car, I'll prove you all wrong.

Life
21-05-2008, 08:27 PM
Sure it is.
Because your tyres are over inflated, contact (footprint) between tyre and the road is smaller, therefore handling, braking and comfort are affected (worse).
Also centre of the thread wears faster than the sides which means shorter tyre life.
This is just simple, short explanation why over inflation is not good.

http://www.tmarts.com.au/pdf/Guide_To_Tyre_Care_And_Safety.pdf

http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html

Heh, I was going off the guide on the tyres themselves. It said recommended was 38 with maximum of 52.

Theres some expensive tyres on there though and it handles much better with higher psi. I tried 38 and it handled like ****.

i286
22-05-2008, 09:52 AM
Heh, I was going off the guide on the tyres themselves. It said recommended was 38 with maximum of 52.

Theres some expensive tyres on there though and it handles much better with higher psi. I tried 38 and it handled like ****.


Each car comes with it's own recommended tyre pressure. Tyre pressure is determined by the load being carried and the speed at wich the tyre is operated. Recommended tyre pressure can be found on the tyre placard and that is the minimum tyre pressure (one or two passengers, no luggage or trailer attached).

If the vehicle is is fully loaded, or towing a boat, caravan or heavy trailer, general rule is to increase pressure by 4 psi.
At high speed (defined as driving at 120 km/h for over one hour) the rule is to increase pressure by 4 psi.

Tyre manufacturers suggest not to exceed 40 psi for radial tyres. They will also write maximum pressure on the sidewall. It is important to note that tyre pressure increases while driving.

Tyre pressure should be checked when cold. If that is not possible allow at least 2 psi more than recommended pressure. Never bleed pressure from tyres when checking them hot (pressure will be higher then when they are cold).

Your tyres are stock size and there is a lot of sidewall flex even with correct pressure. By increasing pressure you will reduce the flex to some extent, but you will also reduce contact patch which results in porer handling, longer stopping distance, premature tyre wear, premature suspension wear due increased vibrations because of harder tyres etc........

You can not improve handling by over inflating your stock tyres, changing your wheels to bigger diameter rims and lower aspect ratio tyres will improve handling.

On my car I have 215/55/16 tyres and they are 38 psi front and 35 psi rear. They are regularly rotated every 5000 km and wear is even across the thread.

http://www.bridgestone.com.au/tyres/passenger/care/pressure.aspx
http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.kwik-fit.com/assets/jpg/graphics/tyre-pressures.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.kwik-fit.com
http://www.tyrepower.com.au/tyre_pressures.aspx

ar3nbe
22-05-2008, 09:57 AM
You can not improve handling by over inflating your stock tyres, changing your rims to bigger diameter and lower aspect ratio tyres will improve handling.



But are the handling increases from the lower profile tyre greater than the handling decreases from the higher weight ?

i286
22-05-2008, 10:02 AM
Yes they are.

ar3nbe
26-05-2008, 12:32 PM
Yes they are.

Ok. The 20s I had on my car weighed 1kg more than the stock 16s. The 20s ran a 30profile, the 16s ran a 60profile.

Why did my car handle worse ?

i286
27-05-2008, 05:54 PM
Ok. The 20s I had on my car weighed 1kg more than the stock 16s. The 20s ran a 30profile, the 16s ran a 60profile.

Why did my car handle worse ?


Statement that 20" wheels you had are 1 kg heavier than stock 16" wheels is, hmmmm let say incorrect.

My Altera was fitted with 15x6 aluminium rims, and 205/65/15 Bridgestone RE 92 tyres. Weight of one wheel (rim+tyre) was 17 kg.
Next were series II VR-X 17x7 rims (9 kg each) with 225/50/17 Bridgestone G III tyres (12 kg each). Combined weight of 21 kg for each wheel, increase in weight of 23.53%.
At the moment there are 16x6.5 FTO rims ( 7.3 kg each) with 215/55/16 Falken FK 452 tyres (11.3 kg each). Combined weight of 18.6 kg which is 9.4% increase in weight compared to factory choice.

Your tyres were 225/30/20 Nankang . What was the width of the rims? What was the offset ? What was the weight of one wheel (rim + tyre)?
Correct me if I am wrong, but I am assuming that your tyres were NS2 model (load rating 85), and they were around $200 each.
Your car came out of factory with 16x7 rims and 215/60/16 tyres.
Diameter of 20" tyres you had was 20 mm smaller than factory fitment . Afaik we are allowed to change diameter by no more than +/- 15 mm.

Why did your car handle worse with 30 profile tyres than with 60 profile tyres?

Simple, short answer would be unsprung weight, suspension set up and inferior tyres.

I am assuming your car is around 100000 km mark. Your shock absorbers are eight years old Monroe hydraulic type. When doing their job shocks produce heat. Heat makes oil deteriorate. Moving parts wear out. Monroe gives three years/60000 km warranty on most of their shock absorbers. I would change them around 50K, definitely no more than 70K.

I am assuming that each wheel was around 26-27 kg (possibly more). Having super low springs (30% or more stiffer than stock ones) fitted on worn shocks and add to that around 50% ? heavier wheels. No wonder you had worse handling.

In my opinion, unsprung weight is one of the major problems which affects the handling.
Do some research about it so you get better idea what is it all about.

Didn't I say in one of the posts that lower profile tyres will improve the handling despite being heavier?

Sure I did. By that I meant stick with the model of the car you have and see what optional wheel sizes are offered by manufacturer.
Third generation Magnas/Veradas were fitted with 15x6 rims (steel & aluminium) and 205/65/15 tyres. Then there were 16x6 and 16x7 aluminium rims with 215/60/16 tyres. The biggest on offer was 17x7 rim with 225/50/17 tyre.

Sports and VR-X have different spring rate than the rest of the Magna field. Why?
To match increased wheel weight and engine power.
When making Ralliart, Mitsubishi decided to stick with VR-X spring rates front and rear, but with height of the springs fractionally reduced. Anti-roll bars, 22 mm front and 18 mm at the rear are the same as VR-X.
When they decided to go with Konis, seven or eight valve codings were tried before the process of co*rse and then fine tuning was finished.

Car manufacturers spend years and millions of dollars when developing a new car. They employ dozens of engineers and technicians. They have knowledge, tools and facilities to develop, make and test parts. Magnas were thoroughly tested in different conditions with differerent wheel/tyre combinations, but I believe they never thought about trying 20" wheels.
Your experience is good example how Trail and Error system is working. I believe research and informing/educating yourself before money is spent is the right way to go.

When I had 17" wheels, car felt heavy, noisy and less comfortable than with 15" wheels. I would not say that handling was any better or worse but the grip improved noticeably.
One VR-X muffler, custom intake snorkel, hi-flow throttle body, king low springs and Koni yellow shocks later car is running like a Swiss clock.
It does not handle like Peugeot 306 GTi or WRX, but it handles better than the car I bought over seven years ago. :)