I have just replaced timing belt,cam seals and crank seal in my TF 3litre got it all back together go to start it and it runs like a piece of crap.I also replaced the CAS sensor while i was there so i thought this was the problem and put the old one back in and try again but still runs crap.So i do a compression test to narrow down whats wrong and i have no compression in all but number 3 and 6 wich are at 200 psi.Can anyone help with why i would loose compression by only changing the belt.
Thanx
Darren

Stop turning it over

Take the covers off and check your timing marks are correct.

It sounds like 1 or both of your cams is out

bent valves

firing order is 123456

Stop turning it over

Take the covers off and check your timing marks are correct.

It sounds like 1 or both of your cams is out

i have done this about three times already.Also had rocker covers off and watched the valves and they seem to all be going up and down.

i would definitely be re-checking, and getting someone else to check your timing as well.

go over everything you have touched while re-doing the timing belt. is your crank timing pulley on correctly?

Hmmmm.......its just that those symptoms and what you have said scream out that the valve timing is off.

The timing mark at the bottom gear should line up at the top of the compression stroke at no1 cyl ie both valves closed.

At the same time both timing marks on the cam gears should line up with their respective marks on the head


Have you got the book???? :)

Sorry if im teachin ya granny to suck eggs their mate :)

yeah i have just redone it three times again and still the same.
i have double checked everything.
All timing marks line up.
I can still remember things from when i was makin them at mitsys and tried everything but still running crap.

so everyone can see

if you have high compression on 2 cyls the timing has to be right

so everyone can see

if you have high compression on 2 cyls the timing has to be right

yeah i dont no whats goin on i have reset timing and done compression test again and got the same result actually i got a higher reading on the number 3 this time.

all the valves are openin and closing fully???:confused:

last time I had the problem of no compression . 3 exhaust valves had bent at the base
ever so slightly .the valves went up and down but would not seat
bought 3 more valves and fixed it

using the front bank ..measure the lift of each valve

you will be looking for mm of difference

another idea is remove the inlet manifold
fill the inlet and exhaust ports (with a funnel use diesel /kero/ petrol /metho)
of the front bank to test the seats of the valves when both are closed

most annoying event ever
if the motor was running fine before you changed the timing belt
Ive been there before..grrrrr

last time I had the problem of no compression . 3 exhaust vales had bent at the base
ever so slightly .the valves went up and down but would not seat
bought 3 more valves and fixed it

using the front bank ..measure the lift of each valve

you will be looking for mm of difference

another idea is remove the inlet manifold
fill with a funnel the inlet and exhaust ports of the front bank
to test the seats of the valves at their top mark

most anoying event
if the motor was running fine before you changed the timing belt
Ive been there before

yeah the motor was running perfect before hand.
How do measure the lift? i have had the rocker cover of and all the valves moved up and down.
what do you by fill the inlet and exhaust ports.

i edited my post so it reads ok now :gtfo: :nuts:

measure with an engineers slide calliper

i edited my post so it reads ok now :gtfo: :nuts:

measure with an engineers slide calliper

mm i have one of them but have never used it. so how do i use it:roll:

with filling up up ports i am guessing if the valves are bent the liquid will run out.

Are the cam sprockets the same? if not, there are not on **** about?

So you have linned everything up and and turned crank several rotations by hand and all markings come back into line..?? repeat this step serveral times. im assuming all the markings still line up.

Next thing is to check pistion in cylinder 1.(closest to timming belt). Easiest was is remove plug and put a long screw driver into the cylinder to rest on piston. turn the crank and as pistion comes up you will see the screw driver come up and when piston goes down screw driver goes down. easier with two people. one to tun crank and other to hold screw driver. now when pistion gets to top dead centre(screw driver is as high as it comes up) look at crank and cam markings. they should all be on the timing markers. if so all is good and id start to look at valves loosing the pressure..:)

I know what its all about.. mines sitting there with bent valves..:(

mm i have one of them but have never used it. so how do i use it:roll:

with filling up up ports i am guessing if the valves are bent the liquid will run out.

test fill each cylinder in turn when the pistion is at compression stroke


you sit the base of the calliper on the top of the spring and slide the depth guage the length of the spring if number 3 has good compression use it as the correct depth
check the depth against 1 and 5 on the front bank

Hi all

Assuming the possibility of severely incorrect timing during the first attempts to start up, can this have taken out the head gaskets?

I might be out of my depth/way off here.

regards
Blake

Hi all

Assuming the possibility of severely incorrect timing during the first attempts to start up, can this have taken out the head gaskets?

I might be out of my depth/way off here.

regards
Blake


How do u take out a head gasket..?? Ive never heard of that before..:) Ive only heard of blowing them.. our ones are metal so there is sfa chance of that..

How do u take out a head gasket..?? Ive never heard of that before..:) Ive only heard of blowing them.. our ones are metal so there is sfa chance of that..

Yes a long shot on my part. Guess not hey

Best of luck with it anyway

cheers
Blake