Sticky thread? (it doesnt seem anyone has done a specific one yet).

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g171/pred8r/KN33-2285.jpg

What = K&N Panel filter for DB 380 (all models with OEM airbox)

Part Number = 33-2285

Available from;

Supplier = Rocket Industries (http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/) (Sydney)
Ordering Method = Mailorder (Not listed on website)
Cost = $115 (inc. GST & Freight)
Delivery Time = 2 days

Supplier = Racing Performance Works (http://www.rpw.com.au/) (Perth)
Ordering Method = Online
Cost = $85 (then +GST +Freight)
Delivery Time = 3-5 days

Supplier = Summit Racing (http://www.summitracing.com/) (USA)
Ordering Method = Online
Cost = US$44.95 (then +US$24.95(per order) + Freight. Probably only cost effective for a Bulkbuy)
Delivery Time = ?

Disclaimer;
I am NOT endorsing any of these suppliers, just listing them as a potential source.
Costs may vary.
Check yourself for product suitability.

Sweet as! Eggsactly what I've been looking for. Thanks!

yeah this should definately be stickied... also you should add some other parts to the list like the galant air intake aswell.. cause i know that thread is like 30 pages

http://www.aussiemagna.com//forums/showthread.php?t=56400&page=5

http://www.aussiemagna.com//forums/showthread.php?t=56400&page=5
Shoot, want to do a separate single post similar to my K&N, seeing you have done one already (which I have searched for before and not found, just do a cut and paste post). Otherwise I will do one when/if mine arrives (its on backorder).

I know there are a few posts with both this and the intake mentioned, but I felt this would eliminate a LOT or repeat questions as this info is always buried deep inside posts (unless they get stripped down and get stickied that is, or redone as a single post).

P.S. This post will/may be re-edited/removed by me later, Im thinking about expanding the first post to include a how-to (for the tool-a-phobic) when I get some time and a sunny weekend (or when the intake arrives and then Ill do both at once).

Permission to remove/edit/rehash anything of mine here OK.:thumbsup:

Cool, Just got notification from Rey's. It's on its way....WOO HOO!!!

Now I need to decide on the rear resonator.......Berklee or Redback?

Just to note, K&N don't make a filter to suit the 380, but If you mod the intake box with a US galant 90 mm intake pipe, then you could use the Filter for the Galant.
Apparently they do SFA with the stock intake pipe.

EDIT: I recall one member fitting it to stock airbox, tried it and took it off, saying he had flat spots in acceleration when fitted, so he sold to another member,who ,had a modded box and found it worked well.
K&N officially don't make the 380 filter, that could be why.

And I paid 95 from autobahn from memory.

Here we go, fitting inc. doing the intake;

The Intakes
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g171/pred8r/SidebySide.jpg

Before
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g171/pred8r/BeforeBay.jpg

The Removal
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g171/pred8r/undothis.jpg

Resize the intake hole in the airbox
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g171/pred8r/Airbox.jpg
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g171/pred8r/BeforeBay.jpg%5B/IMG%5D

Finished
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g171/pred8r/AfterBay.jpg

Helpful notes;
If the plastic screws that hold the snorkel wont undo, hold the outside of the screw down and turn gently - it should undo
The K&N is NOT square, one corner is more rounded than the others. If the 'box wont close rotate the filter so the more rounded corner is in the top passenger side of the airbox.
When enlarging the hole for the snorkel, I used a dremel with a sanding bit. Works great on about a mid speed (fast melts the plastic)

New member here, first post.

Got myself a 380 two months ago, base model 2005 manual with TCL, sunroof & tow kit, ex factory car with only 17,800k on the clock. Far as I can tell this was a standard option pack for 2005 manuals sold to factory staff, at least one other member here has the same.

First thing I did was lower it (Kings super lows on the front, lows on the back) and fit 18s.

I've fitted a K&N panel and the 90mm snorkel and a straight through muffler. Definitely revs out better than stock now.

Previously had a TE Magna 3.0 manual with extractors, exhaust, unichip, K&N. Sweet motor, loved to rev, really took off over 4,000rpm, wound out to the rev limiter (6750?) giving good power all the way, but not much under 2,000rpm.

I find the 380 has a lot more low down torque, no need/point changing down gears as much as I used to in the TE, but before the mild mods it had no top end at all. Once you hit 5250rpm that was it, the engine just died, and I don't think it was anything to do with a rev limiter. At least now it revs out cleanly to about 5,800 rpm but still not the same top end as the TE. I'd even go as far as to say that in second gear at around 60km/h, when booted, the TE shaded the 380. Weight would have a bit to do with it.

Anyway, back on topic.

I've cut a section out of the front rubber bonnet seal, but I really don't think it could make much difference as I can't see how much air at all can get through there. There is just no gap when the bonnet is shut. Others have suggested that some air comes in from the sides, between the two rubber sealing strips, but again I can't see any pathway for this. I'm pretty sure that nearly all the air picked up by the snorkel is coming up through the small 'sort of' rectangular hole just in front of the snorkel, on the cross member above the radiator (see pic above in previous post). Some might be picked up through the twin holes in the underside of the bonnet, which appear to get air up from the bonnet catch hole, but not much.

So I got out a hack saw blade and file and enlarged the hole in front of the snorkel, so it is now the same size and shape as the front edge of the snorkel, but deeper. Only took about an hour of cutting & filing, if you're careful it can be done neatly.

I did this before I fitted the 90mm snorkel and K&N, and noticed an immediate improvement in power and 'revvability'. Nothing huge, but definitely noticable. Then, when I fitted the 90mm snorkel I enlarged the hole a bit more. It definitely breathes a lot better now.

I simple mod that costs nothing but a little time & effort and well worth it.

I've considered fitting extractors, but I'm worried about all the issues with cats, O2 sensors, ECU, CEL, limp home mode and so on, and RPW were no help at all, so I'm giving it a miss for now.

One question for members.

I'd like to get a UnichipQ fitted, but I can't find anyone in Adelaide who stocks/fits/tunes them.

Can anyone help?

KJ.

New member here, first post.

Got myself a 380 two months ago, base model 2005 manual with TCL, sunroof & tow kit, ex factory car with only 17,800k on the clock. Far as I can tell this was a standard option pack for 2005 manuals sold to factory staff, at least one other member here has the same.

First thing I did was lower it (Kings super lows on the front, lows on the back) and fit 18s.

I've fitted a K&N panel and the 90mm snorkel and a straight through muffler. Definitely revs out better than stock now.

Previously had a TE Magna 3.0 manual with extractors, exhaust, unichip, K&N. Sweet motor, loved to rev, really took off over 4,000rpm, wound out to the rev limiter (6750?) giving good power all the way, but not much under 2,000rpm.

I find the 380 has a lot more low down torque, no need/point changing down gears as much as I used to in the TE, but before the mild mods it had no top end at all. Once you hit 5250rpm that was it, the engine just died, and I don't think it was anything to do with a rev limiter. At least now it revs out cleanly to about 5,800 rpm but still not the same top end as the TE. I'd even go as far as to say that in second gear at around 60km/h, when booted, the TE shaded the 380. Weight would have a bit to do with it.

Anyway, back on topic.

I've cut a section out of the front rubber bonnet seal, but I really don't think it could make much difference as I can't see how much air at all can get through there. There is just no gap when the bonnet is shut. Others have suggested that some air comes in from the sides, between the two rubber sealing strips, but again I can't see any pathway for this. I'm pretty sure that nearly all the air picked up by the snorkel is coming up through the small 'sort of' rectangular hole just in front of the snorkel, on the cross member above the radiator (see pic above in previous post). Some might be picked up through the twin holes in the underside of the bonnet, which appear to get air up from the bonnet catch hole, but not much.

So I got out a hack saw blade and file and enlarged the hole in front of the snorkel, so it is now the same size and shape as the front edge of the snorkel, but deeper. Only took about an hour of cutting & filing, if you're careful it can be done neatly.

I did this before I fitted the 90mm snorkel and K&N, and noticed an immediate improvement in power and 'revvability'. Nothing huge, but definitely noticable. Then, when I fitted the 90mm snorkel I enlarged the hole a bit more. It definitely breathes a lot better now.

I simple mod that costs nothing but a little time & effort and well worth it.

I've considered fitting extractors, but I'm worried about all the issues with cats, O2 sensors, ECU, CEL, limp home mode and so on, and RPW were no help at all, so I'm giving it a miss for now.

One question for members.

I'd like to get a UnichipQ fitted, but I can't find anyone in Adelaide who stocks/fits/tunes them.

Can anyone help?

KJ.

If you havent already, look at changing out the rear box, i hear its worse then the magna flow wise, change it to a glass pack lukey to keep the noise down and with the factory reso's still in place it wont drone.

Yep, first mod I did was to replace the stock muffler with a Lukey UltraFlow.

Sounded good but droned a bit much for my liking.

Exhaust shop bloke said the drone would decrease once it had done a few ks, but I got him to put in an extra resonator anyway.

Improved things a little, but after 2,000 ks its still too drony. OK at light throttle, but at constant one quarter throttle such as going up a slope or cruising at 120km/h its annoying.

Going to replace it with either a Lukey LR2779 or Berklee BS0655. Prefer the Lukey, its what I had on the TE, but the exhaust shop bloke reckons there are none available anywhere in Adelaide.

Now shopping around for someone who can do it at a fair price.

Any recommendations?

KJ

Yep, first mod I did was to replace the stock muffler with a Lukey UltraFlow.

Sounded good but droned a bit much for my liking.

Exhaust shop bloke said the drone would decrease once it had done a few ks, but I got him to put in an extra resonator anyway.

Improved things a little, but after 2,000 ks its still too drony. OK at light throttle, but at constant one quarter throttle such as going up a slope or cruising at 120km/h its annoying.

Going to replace it with either a Lukey LR2779 or Berklee BS0655. Prefer the Lukey, its what I had on the TE, but the exhaust shop bloke reckons there are none available anywhere in Adelaide.

Now shopping around for someone who can do it at a fair price.

Any recommendations?

KJ

Hi, welcome to the forums.
I can recommend the Berklee muffler for your 380, its what I have - and no drone at all.
Where abouts are you? I did mine at Penrith (western Sydney) for $140 incl. retaining the original tip.
I also had a TF Magna 3.0 manual with Lukey muffler and Pacemaker headers; very loud but too droney.
Put a pic of your car in your profile, when you get a chance, to show it off.

So I got out a hack saw blade and file and enlarged the hole in front of the snorkel, so it is now the same size and shape as the front edge of the snorkel, but deeper. Only took about an hour of cutting & filing, if you're careful it can be done neatly.
A pic of this would be nice too - one of the members here had problems with water ingress due to the rubber being cut away. I'm assuming you haven't had that problem?

I've cut a section out of the front rubber bonnet seal, but I really don't think it could make much difference as I can't see how much air at all can get through there. There is just no gap when the bonnet is shut. Others have suggested that some air comes in from the sides, between the two rubber sealing strips, but again I can't see any pathway for this. I'm pretty sure that nearly all the air picked up by the snorkel is coming up through the small 'sort of' rectangular hole just in front of the snorkel, on the cross member above the radiator (see pic above in previous post). Some might be picked up through the twin holes in the underside of the bonnet, which appear to get air up from the bonnet catch hole, but not much.
KJ.
Yeah a pic of what you have done here would be interesting. I fitted the Galant intake and noticed the rubber strip immediately blocking the intake opening - so I took the whole strip off. But after a few months with it off, and then finally with it refitted again, I noticed no real difference.

I've considered fitting extractors, but I'm worried about all the issues with cats, O2 sensors, ECU, CEL, limp home mode and so on, and RPW were no help at all, so I'm giving it a miss for now.

One question for members.

I'd like to get a UnichipQ fitted, but I can't find anyone in Adelaide who stocks/fits/tunes them.

Can anyone help?

KJ.


First off welcome to the club i'm glad to see more and more people buying the 380 it's a brilliant car.

Secondly the extractors having had them fitted i can say without a doubt well worth it the engine revs out so much more and the top end is fantastic it pulls for me from about 2k - 4k then once it gets there pulls harder again, i've found it's a noticeable pull as well, the only issue there is that my fuel consumption is ****e (my own fault i can't help but push it hard).
As for the CEL Fooz has cleared his by using O2 spacers and a scanner to tell him what his issues are, if you speak to a workshop with this bit of kit or even get one yourself the CEL can be cleared, but in saying that, the CEL comes on but it does not do anything to the performance of the car it's just irritating until you get rid of it, or in my case get used to it being there (I'll turn off the TCL sometimes just to make the dash look even :D)

Thirdly the unichip Q along with the exceede from chip torque are the only two chips i know of that have been fitted to a 380 with any success, the wiring loom is available for both but i can't tell you of any place you can go in Adelaide to get it done, that said any reputable tuner should be able to source it all for you if they sell either chip.
My thoughts on this so far are a bit meh, but I'm thinking maybe my tuner is at fault as they tend not to work with non performance cars and i feel possibly they kinda said meh that will do when they tuned my car and didn't do a proper job.

Finally i agree with the others def post pics of the cutout you made i don't know if it will make a big enough difference to be worthwhile but hey if it's cheep and people wanna do it go for it :D. Oh of course check out the raptor thread for the test fit on a 380 good times ahead for us performance junkies, now to save up the 6grand to get it fitted and tuned......sigh it's worse than a drug addiction i tells ya :(

BloodAsp, good to hear you're happy with the extractors.
After having driven Foozr's I felt the top end hadn't benefitted too much but your experience sounds different.
A chip will really improve your economy apart from the extra kws. It's almost worth doing it from that alone. I get 8.8L/100KM easily and low 8s if I try hard.

KJ380,
If you're after performance to exceed the TE you have to do the extractors. Sure, the CEL will be a pain but it's a cosmetic issue only. You won't go into limp home unless there is really a big issue with the ECU; the only time anyone has posted this happening is me :badgrin: when ChipTorque connected a wrong pin.
A chip will really sharpen the throttle response and help you milk that last KW.

Also, Foozr sourced a properly made CAI from the States, it might be worth looking at that as well.

I hope you get the car dynoed because we haven't had a manual's output graphed yet. it should be quite informative; the best auto is 163KW ATW (98RON).

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Cash is a bit tight at the moment so may have to wait a while for extractors ($1,000 fitted?) or chip ($1500 fitted & tuned?).

If/when I get a chip fitted (could be before or after extractors) I'll make sure to dyno it and post the result.

I'll post up a few shots of the car & the engine bay soon, but it will be a few days as I'm off to sunny Melbourne for three days tomorrow (flying, not driving).

PS - I've read a couple of posts about the manual 380 having less torque than the auto.

Any truth in that?

Before I bought the manual (one of only two available in Adelaide at the time) I tested both it and an auto. I couldn't feel any difference in power or torque, but I still preferred the instant response & control of the manual over the ever so slightly laggy auto, so I bought it.

KJ.

It has been said here (and documented I think) that the auto has more torque than the manual. To see what all the fuss was about, I compared with my auto with a manual VRX (courtesy Blue380) - both our cars had the exact same mods (ie intake, muffler, springs) and same mileage too. We drove each other's car and found no difference at all. Both drove (and sounded) the same.
Personally I would love to have a manual and would not be put off by this claim in the slightest.

PS - I've read a couple of posts about the manual 380 having less torque than the auto.

Any truth in that?

Before I bought the manual (one of only two available in Adelaide at the time) I tested both it and an auto. I couldn't feel any difference in power or torque, but I still preferred the instant response & control of the manual over the ever so slightly laggy auto, so I bought it.

KJ.

No.

Type40 had a manual and believed there was a torque reduction (electronic torque reduction) near the redline in 1st gear but I'm not sure if his theory was ever proved.

The manual has shorter gearing so should feel more responsive.

BloodAsp, good to hear you're happy with the extractors.
After having driven Foozr's I felt the top end hadn't benefitted too much but your experience sounds different.
A chip will really improve your economy apart from the extra kws. It's almost worth doing it from that alone. I get 8.8L/100KM easily and low 8s if I try hard.

KJ380,
If you're after performance to exceed the TE you have to do the extractors. Sure, the CEL will be a pain but it's a cosmetic issue only. You won't go into limp home unless there is really a big issue with the ECU; the only time anyone has posted this happening is me :badgrin: when ChipTorque connected a wrong pin.
A chip will really sharpen the throttle response and help you milk that last KW.

Also, Foozr sourced a properly made CAI from the States, it might be worth looking at that as well.

I hope you get the car dynoed because we haven't had a manual's output graphed yet. it should be quite informative; the best auto is 163KW ATW (98RON).

With my chip i've noticed nil change in fuel consumption (i've got 14.6l/100 atm) which says to me the tuner did next to nothing when it was tuned.....i'm going to take it somewhere else to see what they can do or say about the current tune and if this is the case i'll be calling my tuner and telling them to either refund me for the dyno time it seems like they paid off or i don't know what.

With my chip i've noticed nil change in fuel consumption (i've got 14.6l/100 atm) which says to me the tuner did next to nothing when it was tuned.....i'm going to take it somewhere else to see what they can do or say about the current tune and if this is the case i'll be calling my tuner and telling them to either refund me for the dyno time it seems like they paid off or i don't know what.

Ouch.

that doesn't sound right at all. Foozr has told me he's also getting in the 8's.

That's on the highway, BTW. But around town you should be in the mid 9's or low 10s. In fact a week or so back I was in the 10s and thought there was something wrong lol but, just a heavy foot.

Did you get the exhaust checked over?

EDIT: Just read your Members post; full SS. So can't be there...

TBH no i never got it done have been too damned busy the last month and a half with work, but with having a month off coming up i'm going to be doing a bit of work chasing up why i'm a) developing less power with very similar mods than you and fooz
b) why my fuel consumption is so bad when again both of you guys have great consumption
c) getting various scratches lil dents etc fixed up.

plus a 1600k round trip to melbourne which may reduce the fuel consumption but i have a feeling it wont do jack for me.

as for that figure yes it is around town but even on longish drives ie more than an hour i'm still getting the same consumption so yeah.....
EDIT: i've actaully been thinking the one difference i can think of is that your two cars have probably done more than the magical 30,000k mark which mine is 9000k short of and i understand that the engine really loosens up at that time, so maybe thats part of the reason.

I took kj380's advice and enlarged the hole in front of the intake (too see the original size of the hole, go to page 1 of this thread). I went one step further & removed the front grill and also cut out a section of a metal lip that drops down about 15mm in front of that hole which I guess was further restricting air flow. The second photo shows the lip I'm referring to before I cut it away. I've got the day off work Wednesday so I think I may even go further and enlarge to hole to include the plastic cover (which has scratches on it from my wayward filing!!!)

Took it for a spin & it did seem very responsive.....yeah I know, its probably my imagination but considering it was free, I've lost nothing.

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/6287/dscn1876rw0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/980/dscn1877da3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

What a clean engine Pete!

It might give you a little bit more response down low but somehow doubt it will make a net difference. Are you going to leave the grill off? New VRX racing look :P ?

I'm interested in that CAI kit Foozr got, but my modding has halted for the time being.

BloodAsp,

i'd definitely get your exhaust/chip/advance checked out. The only time I've ever got into the 14s was on the dyno over fifteen runs.
The engine time is frankly not the problem. The car loosened up for me around 10K and that was subtle.

What a clean engine Pete!

It might give you a little bit more response down low but somehow doubt it will make a net difference. Are you going to leave the grill off? New VRX racing look :P ?

I'm interested in that CAI kit Foozr got, but my modding has halted for the time being.

BloodAsp,

i'd definitely get your exhaust/chip/advance checked out. The only time I've ever got into the 14s was on the dyno over fifteen runs.
The engine time is frankly not the problem. The car loosened up for me around 10K and that was subtle.

To be quite honest i thought as much but it can't hurt to look at everything right :D

I've made up my mind to get it looked at while i'm in melbourne from about the 10th of this month for a week or so i'll have plenty of time to do it in. Fingers crossed it's just the tune that needs work in which case i'll probably get it done then hit up my tuner up here for some sort of recompense for the work that wasn't done, and then never go there again nor recomend anyone to the place.

If it turns out to be the exhaust system then it's probably going to take allot of work as last time i called Liverpool exhaust and explained what i thought might be a problem it was a painful and long conversation, and in the end all they said was it would more than likely be a problem with the engine rather than their work......

Nah Rich, the grill went straight back on....after all, it is a 380, not an XB Falcon!!!

Re the hole in front of the intake, I'm under no illusion its going to create massive amounts of power but I agree with kj380 that it would appear that hole is pretty much the main source of air entering the intake. I figure I've at least doubled the size of the hole, therefore twice as much air entering the snorkel???? Probably doesnt work like that but anyway, a free mod is a good one!!!! While on the subject of K&N filters, I've had mine about a year now...how often should they be cleaned?

One thing I am interested in which should provide a very good gain is the area of the exhaust where the front header (?) meets the rear one. It would appear it does a 180 degree bend about where they join. I'm not that keen to get extractors now but I was thinking about taking the car to an exhaust shop to see if they can manufacture something to eliminate the bend.

In theory that should make a difference in the flow of the exhaust gas's and thus the power would pick up, any decent exhaust shop should be able to make something up for you.

I went a COMPLETLY different way with my K&N filter. I took out the scoop and box altogether and replaced it with a K&N Pod filter along with a heat shield for good measure. She now pulls all hell of alot harder the previous.

I went a COMPLETLY different way with my K&N filter. I took out the scoop and box altogether and replaced it with a K&N Pod filter along with a heat shield for good measure. She now pulls all hell of alot harder the previous.
Any chance you could post a photo of your set-up?

While on the subject of K&N filters, I've had mine about a year now...how often should they be cleaned?

I've had the same thought and have just bought a Redline filter cleaner kit last week. When I get a spare day I'll give it a go. I suppose the air filter should be cleaned about the same time the std one gets replaced inn the maintenance book.


One thing I am interested in which should provide a very good gain is the area of the exhaust where the front header (?) meets the rear one. It would appear it does a 180 degree bend about where they join. I'm not that keen to get extractors now but I was thinking about taking the car to an exhaust shop to see if they can manufacture something to eliminate the bend.
When I first did my exhaust I wondered about that turn as well. I was told the pipes from both banks have to be the same length and the 180 turn was unavoidable.
If you find out something different I'd be really interested.

I've had the same thought and have just bought a Redline filter cleaner kit last week. When I get a spare day I'll give it a go. I suppose the air filter should be cleaned about the same time the std one gets replaced inn the maintenance book.


When I first did my exhaust I wondered about that turn as well. I was told the pipes from both banks have to be the same length and the 180 turn was unavoidable.
If you find out something different I'd be really interested.

I shall give the exhaust shop a call tommorrow & ask him about it.

Re the K & N, I just looked up their website & it says under normal driving conditions (sealed roads), they require cleaning about every 80,000 kms. Apparently even if the filter looks dirty, if you can still see the wire, it doesnt need a clean.

Ah, thanks. I've done 68K and the filter is looking good. Can't remember when I got it from you; must have been around 30-40K mark.