Hey allz~

Well i had a few overheating problems recently refer to my previous (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57499) thread. Got it fixed with a thermostat and correct radiator cap. But i fear from the recent overheating and running it dry, that the head may of warped, and popped the head gasket.:cry: If i leave the cap loose, the water stays in, if i screw it down it will loose 2Litres in 40k. I noticed a few bubbles, and a bit of oil scum in the radiator cap. Is there a sure fire way of testing for a blown head gasket?

Thanx in advance guys!:bowrofl:

you noticed a few bubbles, and a bit of oil scum in the radiator
and it boils easily

top 2 are sure signs of a blown head gasket

how old is the radiator cap

does the motor run rough or is it hard to start

Get a cooling pressure test done.... this willl nail it for sure....

sounds like the obvious though.:doubt:

When did you see the bubbles? Running / not running?

Sounds to me air is getting in somewhere and you're losing coolant through the overflow.

how old is the radiator cap
does the motor run rough or is it hard to start
MB, new cap, i replaced it when i originally thought that was the prob, the motor runs fine.


Get a cooling pressure test done.... this willl nail it for sure....
Yeah might do that, mmm how much is one?


When did you see the bubbles? Running / not running?
yep, when its running. Hmm looks like my worst fears relaized :cry: might have to drive it down to the wreckers hehe.

yep, when its running. Hmm looks like my worst fears relaized :cry: might have to drive it down to the wreckers hehe.

A piston stroke has a lot more pressure in it than the cooling system, so when you've done a head gasket you'll have the higher pressure leaking through the gasket in to the cooling system causing bubbles to come up, this is when you'll end up with a combination of the following.

Bubbles coming up through the radiator which pushes your coolant out through the overflow, or oil in the coolant, or both.

Suggestion is to get a reconditioned motor, they don't cost too much these days and can be half a days work to just swap it over if you have the right tools/facilities.

Good luck.

Suggestion is to get a reconditioned motor, they don't cost too much these days and can be half a days work to just swap it over if you have the right tools/facilities.
Good luck.
whats a second hand astron 2.6 EI worth these days? and would it help much with resale, i could drive it to a car yard now and get $600, and the redbook value is a grand, would it be much more with a reco in it?

approx $

repco exchange full motor $700 +fitting

wreckers used full motor $600

If you bottom end is not too bad, do not waste your money on a full motor, get a head from a wreckers, prefer m7 or better, about 100 bucks complete, get it cleaned and reco'd, about 250 then you are all good to fit it and you are off and running

Cheap reco motors are more hassle than they are worth, especiall ones like HM and RPM (not as bad as RPW LOL )engines where more fail than keep going long term.

approx $
repco exchange full motor $700 +fitting
wreckers used full motor $600

Thanx MB

If you bottom end is not too bad, do not waste your money on a full motor, get a head from a wreckers, prefer m7 or better, about 100 bucks complete, get it cleaned and reco'd, about 250 then you are all good to fit it and you are off and running
Cheap reco motors are more hassle than they are worth, especiall ones like HM and RPM (not as bad as RPW LOL )engines where more fail than keep going long term.
I thought once an alloy engin blew a gasket from overheating/warping, that at minimum the head and block needed re plaining?

definately sounds like a head gasket - most radiator specialists/mechanics have a "sniffer" these days
its like a green dye, that turns blue when it smells oil within the coolant
happened to my TP, would keep pushing coolant out the overflow bottle - that was the only sign mine gave me - couldnt see any oil in the coolant, car didnt run any differently
pulled the head off, sure enough, small crack in the number 4 cylinder
all up, only cost me $400 (mates rates) and that was my head reco'ed, crack tested. shaved n cleaned, along with a valve grind and replacement of valve stem seals
drive in, drive out, included all the gaskets too, such as the exhaust and inlet manifold
few new seals around too, such as rocker cover and distributor
even got a new waterpump belt and battery terminals too, so i dont think i did too badly at all! :cool:

Only need to do bottom end if there is excessive lip on the top of the bore thus indicating bad wear or if badly over heated as the rings will lose tension.

The block is pretty good in Magna's as are in most cars with cast iron blocks, magna blocks do tend to crack between the water jackets along the front (exhaust side) but this is common and really nothing at all to worry about.

bloody good deal ChRiDDa.

Ok anyone know the best place to get rid of a TP Magna quick? Im in Melbourne. Some car yards say they want to buy them, dunno i might get $600-700 for it i suppose.

If it is a Wagon I could be interested, also is it EFI or Carb