hi guys need some info please my step son has just bought a 92 camry

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w198/codapane/c91c1cdf4a32d16ffc78bc9a9b8eb74e_l.jpg

the only thing I can see is that it needs tyres I have 4 wheels and tyres from my TW as I have mags on it now what I want to know will they fit the camry?

I did find this info

CAMRY 92-on OE SIZE 14 X 6 BOLT 5X114.3 LUG NUT 12mmX1.5 CB 60.1
DIAMANTE 91-96 OE SIZE 15 X 6 BOLT 5X114.3 LUG NUT 12mmX1.5 CB 67.1

any info would save me having to get into the back of the shed to find out they wont fit

I think that Camry has +45 offset, you will need to check this. You will need Hub location ring.

http://www.tyrepower.speedywheels.com.au/wheel-tech.htm

Rims should fit, but you will need new tyres to match Camry's Overall Diameter. You will also need 20 wheel nuts for alloy wheels. From the photo Camry has steel wheels, you can not use the same nuts for alloy wheels.

no he is getting my old steel wheels as they have great tread left as for size of tyre

his are 185-75-14
mine are 205-65-15

so with the size when his speedo reads 100 he will be doing 97.7 so thats a good thing lol

Ok then, there should be no problems with wheel nuts. I actually newer saw Camry's or Magna's wheel nuts for steel rims, but I hope they are the same. Centre bore is different, but if the wheel nuts are as I think they are, then they will hold wheels nicely centred and there should be no vibrations.

When speedo shows 100 km/h, actual speed will be 102.3 km/h.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

The wheel studs aren't designed to take the weight of the car. The hub that the centre of the wheel locates around is what should transfer the load between the wheel and the suspension; if the wheel studs are taking the weight they may shear.

I did find this info

CAMRY 92-on OE SIZE 14 X 6 BOLT 5X114.3 LUG NUT 12mmX1.5 CB 60.1
DIAMANTE 91-96 OE SIZE 15 X 6 BOLT 5X114.3 LUG NUT 12mmX1.5 CB 67.1Wrong generation Camry. The one you have pictured was built until 93 in Australia but discontinued in 91 elsewhere, so it's the generation before, which seems to have a 5x100 PCD.

Ok then, there should be no problems with wheel nuts. I actually newer saw Camry's or Magna's wheel nuts for steel rims, but I hope they are the same. Centre bore is different, but if the wheel nuts are as I think they are, then they will hold wheels nicely centred and there should be no vibrations.

When speedo shows 100 km/h, actual speed will be 102.3 km/h.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

That tyre calculator is awesome just done mine and apparently at 100 i'm travelling 2km/h slower.

codapane,

Disregard everything I wrote. Information you provided is incomplete and inaccurate.
From what I found that model Camry (SV21, release date May 1987, produced until February 1993) came with 14x5.5 inch wheels. Tyres were 175/75/14 and 195/65/14.For 1992 model tyres were 195/65/14.

In either case, size 205/65/15 tyre is not suitable replacement.

SupremeMoFo is most likely right that stud pattern is 5 x 100.

veradabeast,

I always suggest that people use hub centric/locating rings if CB is different than the O.E. one, however, if you do not use them wheel studs will not shear. Only problem you might experience could be slight vibration when driving because wheel is not centered.

grelise,

Following calculators are also useful. I use all of them when needed.

http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

codapane,

Disregard everything I wrote. Information you provided is incomplete and inaccurate.
From what I found that model Camry (SV21, release date May 1987, produced until February 1993) came with 14x5.5 inch wheels. Tyres were 175/75/14 and 195/65/14.For 1992 model tyres were 195/65/14.

In either case, size 205/65/15 tyre is not suitable replacement.

SupremeMoFo is most likely right that stud pattern is 5 x 100.

veradabeast,

I always suggest that people use hub centric/locating rings if CB is different than the O.E. one, however, if you do not use them wheel studs will not shear. Only problem you might experience could be slight vibration when driving because wheel is not centered.

grelise,

Following calculators are also useful. I use all of them when needed.

http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

The wheel studs can sheer if centre bore size is bigger on the new wheel. This happened
to a friend of mine who went to get alloys for his mondeo and the tyre place fitted wheels
for a falcon. Long story short, on a trip back from Melbourne, at least 2 out of 5 studs had
sheered off. They had to get towed the rest of the way. Mind you, their mondeo was fully
loaded with 5 passengers, boot and trailer load of camping gear.

The wheel studs can sheer if centre bore size is bigger on the new wheel. This happened
to a friend of mine who went to get alloys for his mondeo and the tyre place fitted wheels
for a falcon. Long story short, on a trip back from Melbourne, at least 2 out of 5 studs had
sheered off. They had to get towed the rest of the way. Mind you, their mondeo was fully
loaded with 5 passengers, boot and trailer load of camping gear.


Wheel studs can shear/break, fortunately that happens rarely.
There are several reasons why that happens, but centre bore size is not one of them.

Wheel studs/bolts does not carry the weight of the vehicle. They provide clamping force. The clamping force is what holds parts together. The friction between the parts keep them from moving when subject to a shear force. The friction between the parts carries the load, not the fastener.

With a properly designed and tightened joint, the stud/bolt will not experience a direct shear load.

Bolts and studs are designed to stretch a bit when tightened. That creates a tension inside the bolt that pulls the head and the nut together. Elastic forces inside the bolt cause it to spring back to its original shape. The more is bolt stretched, the stronger the clamping force, but only if elastic limits have not been reached. Once the limit is reached, permanent deformation destroys the ability to clamp.

The centre bore of a wheel is the machined opening that centres the wheel properly on the hub. Keeping the wheel precisely centred on the hub will minimize the chance of vibration.
There is the clearance between the centre bore and the hub. It is very small, but without it we would not be able to install or remove the wheel from the hub.
So if the wheel and the hub touch on one side of the centre bore, then they don't touch on the other side. If the side of the centre bore where they don't touch is pointing down, then the weight of the hub is not being supported by the edge of the centre bore.
The only way for the centre bore to take the load is if it is a "press fit" onto the hub, with zero clearance, and we all know that is not the case.

vlad,

without more facts and actually examining the broken bolts from your friends car it is not possible to determine reason why they broke. Saying this or that was reason they broke would be speculation, possibly far from truth, so we'll not go there.

Afaik, bigger centre bore was not the reason for bolts to break.

Most common reason is lose bolts/nuts.

Here are some links that I refer to.

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa5357/is_200505/ai_n21370793
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_1.htm
http://www.pwmag.com/industry-news.asp?sectionID=769&articleID=670736
http://www.theconcreteproducer.com/industry-news.asp?sectionID=1425&articleID=649367

i286 is right, the wheel is clamped onto the hub by the bolts and that is what stops it from moving, the few studs i have seen sheared weren't tightened properly and therefore the wheel moved on the hub, causing the studs to snap, i've owned a few cars and vans that didn't even have a raised centre on the hub to locate the wheel, just a flat hub, normally on the rear drum brakes...