Problem:
A few months back my dash lights started to randomly dim slightly.
The dimming was enough to notice but not enough to make it hard to see at night.

The problem slowly got worse - eventually it was going form really dim to completely off.

My first thought was trouble with the alternator except:
- The battery light never came on.
- All other lights worked fine - they still work perfect when the dash lights are dead.
- All dash lights work (indicators, 'D', etc) it is only the back lights that are stuffed.

It is not the globes as I have recently changed all of them for brand new LED lights (these work and are fitted correctly - dash still lights up every now and then.

This past weekend I changed the regulator - as soon as I did this the battery light came on - permanently. The current regulator is brand new.

I have used a multimeter, the battery is running at mid - high 12's. When the car is on, the reading is the same.

So I am assuming that my alternator is screwed and plan to replace it this weekend.



Questions:
Just wondering if anyone can tell me how to use the multimeter to test for a faulty alternator?

Will replacing the alternator fix the dash light problem?

Do you have any other ideas of what I could try?


By the way, I have a 3rd Gen, 97' Ke Xi Verada.

doesnt sound like the alternator at all to me,is the 12v at the battery with the engine running?,if so it should be higher,around 13.8v or so,if not what you have is acceptable,sorry re-read,sounds like the alternator if its only charging at that low figure when engine is running,moreso,did you get any nasty sparks when changing the reg?,have you checked the output directly out of the B+ terminal on the back of the alt?

Sounds more like a problem with the dash light circuit problem though,did it do this at all with the normal incandesant globes in it at all?,as it should still operate as per normal even just from the battery at 12 or so volts,just like the rest of the lighting etc on the car unless these LEDs are different and require a minimum voltage etc

Steve

did you get any nasty sparks when changing the reg?
My friend who is a mechanic changed the regulator and it did spark when he pulled it out.
He didn't even disconnect the battery :nuts: - that is the first thing I would have done.


Sounds more like a problem with the dash light circuit problem though,did it do this at all with the normal incandesant globes in it at all?
Yeah it had the same problem with the normal globes in.


have you checked the output directly out of the B+ terminal on the back of the alt?
I have no idea how to test this. Could you please explain what I need to do if it isn't too complex to explain?


Thanks.

Silly bugger,Should certainly disconnect the battery!

If he did short it out,he could have done in the rectifier (diode pack),hence why the warning lamp in now on,by the sound of it,you have a bosch alternator with a RE60 reg,is that correct (a little black box with a plug on it?)

To test output directly from the alternator,you put the meter on the volts scale and put the negative clip on a good earth and the positive on the big bolt on the back of the alt,it will have the thickest wire attached to it (usually red),this just makes sure there are no wire breaks etc from the alt to the battery,but you have to do this while the donk is running ,so be carefull and the alternator fan or pulley wont discriminate and will rip of a finger or three if you get to close!,but you should also check current,but this is more difficult and requires more tools etc

Id just take it to the local Auto elec and get him to test it for you to make sure,but it does sound like it has had the claw,the dash problem could be totally unrelated i think,id pull out the dash cluster and double check everything,or even give the dash above the cluster a good belt to see if its a loose earth or bad joint etc

Steve

Yeah, I have the Bosch set-up.
Thanks for the tips, I will test out the alternator when I get a chance.

My plan for the weekend is to take out the alternator and get it swapped over for a reco at the local auto-elec for $165. Hopefully the battery will start charging again and the lights work. If not I will take it down and get the pros to check it all out.


could have done in the rectifier (diode pack)
Is this apart of the alternator or is it a seperate component? Pricey?


Just figured that I will do what I can first, then go to the auto-elec with as much knowledge as possible.

No worries mate,sounds like a plan

The diode pack or rectifier is a part of the alternators internals ,so no worries there!

BTW,how is the battery?,id get a test on that aswell being winter and all (hardest on batteries),but dont let a voltage of 12-12.5 volts at the terminals fool you while the car is off,this could be a surface charge,you need a carbon pile load test to determine its true condition (puts a heavy load on the batt to see if it will hold a charge)

LIke you said,if that doesnt fix her up,seek professional advice!

Steve (BTW,i reckon you look like Andrew Mcleod from the crows if thats you in the avatar!):shock:

Hahaha, I had to google the name (I don't follow AFL).
I do admit, there are similarities.

I will get my "mechanic" friend to test the battery properly.

Thanks for all your help mate.

* I will update on Monday (I hate reading posts where the original poster never comes back with the actual problem and the final solution).

Cheers.

i was having problems with my cluster lights for a while and then i got the altinator replaced coz one of the bearings was dry and it all came good

I hope I have the same luck Toocky. I don't feel like paying out the ass for an auto-elec to fix a wiring problem with the dash, on top of the alternator.

Fingers crossed.

a good way to check your alternater is working is to disconnect your
battery while its running

a good way to check your alternater is working is to disconnect your
battery while its running
I read about that the other day (probably on a thread around here).

I was keen to try it until I saw others saying that it is not a good idea because it can potentially damage the computer chip(ECU? I don't know if this is correct. My knowledge of cars is limited).

I've noticed with my car running at idle (<1000rpm) my headlights, interior lights and dash lights are minutely dimmer than normal. A slight dab of the throttle and they go to normal brightness, and when the revs settle they again dim ever so slightly. Sounds similar to your problem, not sure what it is either.

a good way to check your alternater is working is to disconnect your
battery while its running

And a very good way to shag the ECU and blow all the globes in the vehicle!,not recommended at all!.modern alternators need a battery to provide a "cushion" so to speak and reduce spikes etc to the electrics,also alot of alternators run a "S" terminal on the reg which senses battery voltage and tells the alt what to output,take this away and guess what,arratic charge and spikes,ive seen 18volts and over at times,enough to fry plenty of things

Steve

I've noticed with my car running at idle (<1000rpm) my headlights, interior lights and dash lights are minutely dimmer than normal. A slight dab of the throttle and they go to normal brightness, and when the revs settle they again dim ever so slightly. Sounds similar to your problem, not sure what it is either.
This was happening with mine at the start.
It got to the point where I was stopping at red lights and the dash lights would go really dim. As soon as the lights went green and I put my foot on the accelerator; the lights would become bright and normal again.

The only difference between our problems is that all of your interior lights are playing up. Only my dash lights gave me trouble.

You are probably experiencing trouble with your alternator or voltage regulator.

OK so I have just swaped the alternator with a second hand one from the wreckers ($100 with a 90 day warranty).

The alternator is working properly and the battery is being charged (tested with a multimeter).
Unfortunatly, I still have the dimming dash lights problem.
It seems to only happen when in drive and stationary (the revs drop to about 0.8).

I guess I will have to go to an auto-elec unless anyone has any final suggestions?