Hey all,

My mate's got a TJ which is having some rather peculiar gearbox problems.

Two weeks ago, he said that the GB was slipping a bit.

Two days ago, when having the car cold started, he put it in reverse to hear a grinding noise and a clunk into reverse. Last night he topped up the ATF to try rectify the problem.

This morning, he calls me up and tells me that there's no gear at all. He puts it in reverse and it's as though its in neutral, in drive, does the same.

I went past his house a bit earlier to check it out. Surely enough, warm the car up a bit, put it in reverse, a grinding noise but the car doesnt move under it's own power then CLUNK, into reverse. So I tried 1. Same deal, heaps of grinding, no movement. It sounds like when the chain of a pushbike is coming off.

This has got me stumped!

What could it be?
Any advice appreciated.

-Ian

Take it to an auto trans specialist. It can be lots of things, worn clutch, diff on the way
out etc. Actually, the thudding into R was the same problem I was getting until the diff was
totally screwed. Ended up with a new box.

Take it to an auto trans specialist. It can be lots of things, worn clutch, diff on the way
out etc. Actually, the thudding into R was the same problem I was getting until the diff was
totally screwed. Ended up with a new box.

Weel that's the advice I gave him. we had it all planned out too...until we realised that we can't actually move it :confused: lol.

Might be over-filled. They can do crazy stuff when they are. Drain and replace the fluid, see if that gets it driveable...

Might be over-filled. They can do crazy stuff when they are. Drain and replace the fluid, see if that gets it driveable...

Forgot to mention, yes it's pretty overfilled, checked it at warm tonight. We've already set up for sunday a drainage and replacement of fluid.

I thought that the over-fill may have had something to do with it.

If they have NRMA cover, you can pay dumb sometimes and get a tow to the nearest mechanic. Just call up and say (ummmmm theres a funny clunk sound in my gearbox, it wasnt there yesterday) they will send a patrol man out then fix you up with a tow (even if the basic plan only has 8km towing). technically its meant to be on the roadside but you can usually get away with it - the trick is to play dumb

I used to call up for jump starts after leaving my lights on in my old car all the time

If you have the cover its good to call them for just random stuff too, like there was a funny vibrating noise one day on my old beast. i called them up and they sent someone out who found out it was a loose bolt on the alternator, i would have never found that!

mate do u know how to drain the fluid properley? not just from the pan but from the torque converter too as thats where 80% of the fluid is, i think there is a write up somewhere here, prob best to do a full flush too, to see if that helps, you will need about 10L to do a full flush, oh and make sure it is GENUINE Mitsubishi diamond spectrum ATF!!!! and surprised to know that its cheaper than aftermarket magna atf

Just replaced my fluid. As lowrider said the only way to drain more than around a ltr is through the torque converter. And mitsu fluid is heaps cheaper around $60 for 10 ltrs compared to $60 for 5 ltrs non genuin
It is simple but a bit of a bugger to do. If your not sure how to do it, heres a quick quide out of the mitsu manual. In simple though, Jack up the car (drivers side) stick your head under and on the drivers side behind the radiator youll see where the pipe joins into the auto trans cooler, diconnect the rubber hose joining the steel pipes that go into the fluid cooler. (I found it easier to undo the the connection into the cooler.) the rubber pipe is only about 100mm long. after this is d/c run the car for maybe 20 sec then turn car off. Wait for the fluid to stop dripping and check fluid level. This will be if you only want to drain SOME fluid the latter instructions are for a full replacement, if its still too full just do the above again. I tried a search the other week and found the digrams but cant seem to find it so the directions are all l can offer out of the mitsu manual Oh and the only other thing i did was put a bucket under both ends of the pipe as fluid WILL come out them both.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
REPLACEMENT
With the ATF at normal operating temperature, replace the
ATF using the following procedure.
1. Remove the right hand hose connecting the transmission oil cooler pipe to the oil cooler (built in to the bottom of the radiator).
2. Connect a suitable length of hose from the radiator cooler pipe to an oil drain receptacle, large enough to hold the quantity of discharged fluid.
3. Start the engine and discharge the ATF.Operating conditions: “N” Neutral gear and idling.
Caution Start the engine and then stop it within one minute. If the ATF is discharged before the one minute elapses, stop the engine at that time. Amount of ATF discharged: Approximately 4.5 (litres)
4. Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the transmission case and discharge the ATF.
Amount of ATF discharged: Approximately 1.0 (litre)
5. Install the drain plug and gasket, applying the specified amount of torque.
Tightening torque: 32 Nm
6. Fill with new ATF through the oil filler tube. Amount of ATF added: Approximately 5.5 (litres) NOTE Stop pouring if the entire amount of new ATF cannot be added. (Do not exceed “COLD” level)
7. Repeat the procedure in step (3) and discharge approximately 3.0 litres of ATF. NOTE
Check the ATF discharged in step (8) for contamination. If it is contaminated, repeat steps (7) and (8).
8. Add the new ATF through the oil filler tube.Amount of ATF added: Approximately 3.0 (litres)
9. Attach and secure the hose that was disconnected in step (1) and securely insert the oil level gauge.
10. Start the engine and let it idle for one or two minutes.
11. Move the selector lever through all gear positions, ending in Neutral position.

Manual Conversion :P

UPDATE: Today I went and remved approx 1L of transmission fluid from the car in hope that this wold solve the problem. When I got there, tried putting it in gear and would inoly go into gear (jolt into gear) when at high revs, once revs dropped, it would fall out of gear again. Both forward and Reverse gears same situation.


After draining the 1L of pluid, the car stood still, no jolting, nothing. hows that, 6 neutrals and one park gear! I revved it up again (in reverse), and the car neither rolled forward or reversed, stood in one spot. then we saw the smoke. a small cloud of white smoke came from the gearbox area of the engine bay.

I'm still stumped!

help?

-Ian

It sounds busted man, get a reco box.

This problem has nothing to do with the fluid (as you have proven).

Needs to be checked by an expert.

This problem has nothing to do with the fluid (as you have proven).

Needs to be checked by an expert.

During the week I'll get him to call Transtyles in Hallam, see if they do housecalls. Just checking if anyone on here could shed some light.

I think it's pretty unlikely that they'll come to you (but hey, worth a try).

You're best off getting a tow (professional or get a mate with a tow cable!) to the workshop and then straight to the chemist for some lube.

Hey dude I had the same problem my tiptronic was stuffed, the gear wouldnt select. I think the one way clutch is heavily damage or the park selector snapped and ceased a few parts in there.

You need get it opened and rebuild.
While your there get a reconditioned torque converter.

sounds like a stuffed torque converter. get a 2500rpm stall fitted:badgrin:

i had exact same prob so lugo's sugestion is the action i took
:badgrin:

Manual Conversion :P