OK, posting this up to remove any doubts and fears for anyone now or in the future about doing this yourself. It really IS simple, and with absolutely zero mechanical knowledge but a little common sense, you should be able to do this in 10-15 mins (depending on how many times you stop to take a sip from your beer/coffee).
Bear in mind, in this one I purchased the front half of the airbox, so I will show instructions on swapping that. If you didn't buy it, then you will CLEARLY be able to see what you need to remove from the stock box with a file (kinda wish I had done that instead of buying the box!).

OK, tools you'll need:
10mm socket, socket wrench, decent length extension for socket wrench (mine was a touch short, but flex-head on the wrench helped) and a standard philips head screwdriver.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/100_3185.jpg

Firstly, you need to remove the two screws at the front of the existing intake:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/1-2.jpg

Then just lift the snorkel about 5mm and slide it straight out! Simple!
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/100_3177.jpg

OK, now you need to remove the two bolts on the front and rear of the box:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/2-2.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/3-2.jpg

Next you need to lift and wiggle a bit, bearing in mind there is a hole over a guide pin under the ECU to the right as you look at it from the front, and also a connected oblong pipe coming down from the front underside of the airbox. Once you've wiggled it free, you need to lift the airbox out high enough to get the required leverage to unhook the tabs at the bottom. I rested it on the coolant filler cap while I did this, made it easier:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/100_3179.jpg

Once unclipped and removed, your engine bay looks like this (note I circled that guide pin I was telling you about and you can clearly see the oblong pipe below where the box was):
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/4-1.jpg

OK, get the replacement box front, line up the tabs for the other half, put your airfilter back inside and lower it back in, MAKING SURE YOU LINE IT BACK UP TO SIT ON THE GUIDE PIN AND THE OBLONG PIPE UNDERNEATH!. It should look like this:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/100_3182.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/100_3183.jpg

Put the two bolts back in and tighten, then clip the new larger snorkel firmly into the box. Remember it should fit snugly all around the join!

Put the two screws back into the front of the snorkel, and you're done!!!

End result:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/100_3184.jpg

Now, for those of you who DIDN'T buy (or don't plan to buy) the front part of the airbox, here is a comparison shot of the hole you need to modify that should be self-explanatory:

Australian stock:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/100_3178.jpg

Replacement airbox (US Stock):
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/100_3183.jpg

Hope this helps out!

Seriously, for the minimal time and effort this takes, there's no excuse for NOT doing it yourself!

Top stuff, Sidewinder :thumbsup:

MODS: can we sticky this pls?

Also I found loosening the clamp further up near where it joins the alloy plenum really helps. It than allows the whole intake unit to pivot.

Top stuff, Sidewinder :thumbsup:

MODS: can we sticky this pls?

Also I found loosening the clamp further up near where it joins the alloy plenum really helps. It than allows the whole intake unit to pivot.

Yeah, it takes a bit of "persuading" without doing this, but there is enough flex there to get it into the position you need it.

how much power/ fuel economy is gained.

Well done! That's a very good and clear step by step guide. Although a simple refit, it is quite fiddly. I didn't have the correct socket wrench and had to get Blue 380 to help me.

also were and how much.

also were and how much.

Parts were ordered from www.reyreece.com (US based parts supplier) and I can't speak more highly of them. Order was processed VERY quickly and arrived VERY quickly.

All up, including postage and after exchange, it cost me about $145 aussie dollars.

how much power/ fuel economy is gained.

Haven't driven it for more than about 5-10 minutes, but will post up economy difference (if any) once I drive my usual run to work as that will be the best comparison.

As for power gain, I don't want to speculate on that simply because the only answer will come from a dyno run, and I'm gonna do a few more bits before I fork out for that.

Great step by step. All i need is for USPS to hurry up and get me my snorkel!


I am intrested in fuel economy figures if you have them yet!

Fuel economy has definitely improved.

Driving carefully on my run to work, before intake was getting 11.4/100 average, now getting 10.6/100 average.

Driving normally (with a few heavy-foot launches) I was getting about 13.5/100, now getting 12.4/100

Oh, I'm running 98RON too.

Great stuff 1 litre per hundred is not to be sneezed at for such easy mods!

These cars react so well to 98 octane fuel probably the most noticable i have driven........except for the evo!

Fuel economy has definitely improved.

Driving carefully on my run to work, before intake was getting 11.4/100 average, now getting 10.6/100 average.

Driving normally (with a few heavy-foot launches) I was getting about 13.5/100, now getting 12.4/100

Oh, I'm running 98RON too.
Have you noticed a gain in performance?

Have you noticed a gain in performance?

More rev happy than it was, and also seems to have more bite lower in the rev range than it did before.
No actual dyno figures, so really can only comment on how the delivery of power feels, as guessing to any actual total gain leads to sounding like a dick later when disproven by a dyno lol

More rev happy than it was, and also seems to have more bite lower in the rev range than it did before.
No actual dyno figures, so really can only comment on how the delivery of power feels, as guessing to any actual total gain leads to sounding like a dick later when disproven by a dyno lol
In case you arent aware, Knotched dyno'd his with & without the 90mm intake & it gave a
13HP increase at the wheels. His has a sports exhaust so if you are still running the standard rear muffler, you would probably find the gain wouldnt be as significant.

Now looking into the cold air intake designed for these motors, might be selling my US stock intake soon LOL.

F me - if you have time...

That's a HUGE difference in scoop and inlet tract area. At highway speeds your fuel econ would be awesome with the increased head pressure. Nice write up!

Everyone, go get your spanners - it's time to get your hands dirty on the car, not sweaty on the keyboard ;)

What I'm thinking of switching to:
http://www.injen.com/galleries/products/SP1873_install.jpg

Or this:
http://www.f5air.com/images/complete_parts/ca2707a.JPG

MMMM Mivec *drools*

But whats the diff in the two motor's i can see there is a difference but not sure what it is in terms of KW or whatever.

whats wrong with drilling a massive hole in the air box and running a length of rippled plastic piping down to the lower front grille???

whats wrong with drilling a massive hole in the air box and running a length of rippled plastic piping down to the lower front grille???
You mean like this?
http://www.aussiemagna.com//forums/showthread.php?t=56400&page=5
(Scroll 3/4's down the page)

This was posted in "Even Bigger Intake??". Dunno if that's original, thought it came from somewhere else, but can't remember where.

MMMM Mivec *drools*

But whats the diff in the two motor's i can see there is a difference but not sure what it is in terms of KW or whatever.
Im pretty sure the US 3.8 Mivec puts out 258HP so if my calculations are right, should be about 192KW. So for an extra 17KW, you would have to wonder if it would be worth the cost to put one in a 380?

Im pretty sure the US 3.8 Mivec puts out 258HP so if my calculations are right, should be about 192KW. So for an extra 17KW, you would have to wonder if it would be worth the cost to put one in a 380?

That's running 89 RON fuel though, also with the same restrictions on the system that our 380's suffer. I pretty sure the MIVEC has higher output on the Eclipse than on the Ralliart Galants.

That's running 89 RON fuel though, also with the same restrictions on the system that our 380's suffer. I pretty sure the MIVEC has higher output on the Eclipse than on the Ralliart Galants.

89RON? I presume you are referring to the US Octane Number rating? The US does not calculate Octane the same as Australia, and actually uses the average value of RON and MON together to get PON, Pump Octane Number. 89PON in USA is equiv to 95RON in auz

That's running 89 RON fuel though, also with the same restrictions on the system that our 380's suffer. I pretty sure the MIVEC has higher output on the Eclipse than on the Ralliart Galants.
I'm not sure about the rear muffler but I'm pretty sure they dont suffer with the restrictive intake that came standard on our 380's....we have all got the 90mm intakes from the 3.8 Galant motor.

Im pretty sure the US 3.8 Mivec puts out 258HP so if my calculations are right, should be about 192KW. So for an extra 17KW, you would have to wonder if it would be worth the cost to put one in a 380?

Aren't they DOHC motors i've seen mildly modded ones on youtube pulling around 200kwatw i believe.

I'm not sure about the rear muffler but I'm pretty sure they dont suffer with the restrictive intake that came standard on our 380's....we have all got the 90mm intakes from the 3.8 Galant motor.

They got the bigger intake, but same muffler, same headers with cat etc etc.

Aren't they DOHC motors i've seen mildly modded ones on youtube pulling around 200kwatw i believe.
The link below lists the 3.8 MIVEC as SOHC and they are putting out 192KW. Perhaps there are different versions of that motor that you've seen on youtube (poss Ralliart DOHC??) because it would take more than mild mods to go from 192 KW at the fly to 200 KW at the wheels.
http://autos.nytimes.com/2008/Mitsubishi/Galant/268/3138/293116/researchSpecs.aspx

I dunno, Pete.

Foozr is getting 170KW ATW out of our lower tech head with very little modification. To get 200KW ATW from the Mivec I don't see as a big ask, particularly if their RON (PON) is much superior to ours.
Once you take away exhaust and intake restrictions these engines really put out some power.

Only Galant to get MIVEC was the Ralliart, all the rest of them got the same V6 we did (unless of course they bought a 4cyl!), which is why I invaded club9g.com for tips and tricks on these motors.

The Eclipse ONLY got the MIVEC for its V6 models.

I dunno, Pete.

Foozr is getting 170KW ATW out of our lower tech head with very little modification. To get 200KW ATW from the Mivec I don't see as a big ask, particularly if their RON (PON) is much superior to ours.
Once you take away exhaust and intake restrictions these engines really put out some power.
If the MIVEC is 192 KW at the fly, I would say that would be about 145ish at the wheels. So you are talking an extra 55 kw at the wheels to get it to 200kw. What light mods are going to give you 55kw atw??? Or maybe we just have different ideas on what 'light mods' are.

Yeah, I know. But...

OZ 380 flywheel = 175kw std.

We are getting 170kw ATW with one member - that's a measured output, not theoretical. How do you explain that?

We have only really touched the surface with modding the 380. The intake and exhaust is just bringing the car back to where most of us would've expected the sports models to start straight from the factory. This is from expectations from the Magna range.
If there had been a Ralliart 380 with extractors and mild cams I'm sure it would've lifted the NA output to over 200kw (fly).
The MiVEC heads must give the engine not only greater breathability but more flexibility where you want the power. I.E. if you're happy to lose some low down torque, you may be able to increase peak power higher up with just cam angle changes because it's dual cams per bank (increase overlap of intake/exhaust interval - the same as regrinding for single cam duration) . That would still be classed as light mods.

Some thoughts anyway...

What light mods are going to give you 55kw atw??? Or maybe we just have different ideas on what 'light mods' are.
I wouldn't class what I've done so far as any more than light mods & I have about 50kw over standard ..... ~225kw. So I'm with knotched on this one :cool:

because it's dual cams per bank

I'm almost certain the the Mivec Galants are still SOHC, the same system as found on the 2.4L Mivec Lancers sold here not long ago.

I'm almost certain the the Mivec Galants are still SOHC, the same system as found on the 2.4L Mivec Lancers sold here not long ago.

OK. In that case I'm talking thru my **se - I thought they were DOHC.

OK. In that case I'm talking thru my **se - I thought they were DOHC.
For more clarity, wear loose pants and pull your cheeks apart when you talk. They are SOHC.

EDIT: :)

Yeah, I know. But...

OZ 380 flywheel = 175kw std.

We are getting 170kw ATW with one member - that's a measured output, not theoretical. How do you explain that?

We have only really touched the surface with modding the 380. The intake and exhaust is just bringing the car back to where most of us would've expected the sports models to start straight from the factory. This is from expectations from the Magna range.
If there had been a Ralliart 380 with extractors and mild cams I'm sure it would've lifted the NA output to over 200kw (fly).
The MiVEC heads must give the engine not only greater breathability but more flexibility where you want the power. I.E. if you're happy to lose some low down torque, you may be able to increase peak power higher up with just cam angle changes because it's dual cams per bank (increase overlap of intake/exhaust interval - the same as regrinding for single cam duration) . That would still be classed as light mods.

Some thoughts anyway...

I certainly take on board your comments Rich but the following is based on facts, not theoretical: The MIVEC motor puts out 192KW, our 380's are 175KW so in total, they have an additional 17KW. Now the dyno testing carried out by yourself revealed fitting a 90mm intake on the 380 resulted in an increase of 13HP at the wheels & info supplied to you by a couple of tuners indicates HP atw's equates roughly to KW at the fly. But lets say the figure you achieved with the bigger inatake was inflated due to your exhaust mods so conservatively say it gave a 10HP increase at the wheels which means about an extra 10KW at the fly. Now considering the MIVEC motor comes standard with the 90mm intake, it is now putting out roughly another extra 7 KW. Now its been said here the US motor runs on the equivalent of 95 octane fuel where I assume ours are on 89 (?) octane so that could possibly account for even a few more KW's. It hasnt yet been established if the Galant has a less restrictive rear muffler than the 380 so it is possible that if they have a better muffler that could account for a bit more power again. But for arguements sake we will ignore the higher octane fuel & rear muffler so at best, the MIVEC motor is producing an extra 7 KW's at the fly. So based on these figures which are in part a result from your testing, I am yet to be convinced that the cylinder heads on the US version do in fact breathe that much more life into the motor.

As far as mods go, I always thought light mods was a K & N and an exhaust and that when you started getting chips is was getting a little more serious. However it would appear your thoughts & others on modding indicate I am a little conservative with my way of thinking so I stand corrected on what constitutes light mods.

Each to their own I guess. I suppose installing an aftermarket ecu is a bit more than light mods but that is something I do to all my cars & in my opinion as long as the engine hasn't been opened up it is light mods. Once you start changing cams, manifolds, pistons, porting etc then it is getting a bit more serious.

As far as the mivec motor is concerned it is strangled by the pre-cats on the engine pipes the same as the 380. When my extractors went on I think it was the single most effective power increase of all the mods. The mivec setup is all about better breathing & efficiency so I believe if you did the same mods to a mivec as we have done here the power increase would be more than the 380.

But I could be wrong ....... :rant:

As far as mods go, I always thought light mods was a K & N and an exhaust and that when you started getting chips is was getting a little more serious. However it would appear your thoughts & others on modding indicate I am a little conservative with my way of thinking so I stand corrected on what constitutes light mods.

I want to make myself clear that I'm just discussing the possibility of 200kw ATW out of the MIVEC, I'm not trying to win an argument and fully concede you could be entirely right.

My view of light mods is the same as Rob's - as long as the engine isn't opened (and you stay with NA!).

I suppose my experience (and Rob's) is that everything you touch on the 3.8 litre seems to release more Kw. It's interesting that on another Forum, a performance shop owner who does FI on Commodores, claimed you couldn't get anymore power out of 100RON than 98RON. Yet Foozle was able to get another 6kw out of the better fuel. And that's a lot of extra hp for just a seeming small increase in RON.
For instance, I couldn't believe the increase of 2kw on the dyno from just removing the engine cover. If I hadn't seen it for real on the dyno I would've called it BS.
As has been said, get rid of the cats on the exhaust manifold and you have an instant 20KW ATW!

The difference is marked from the NA 3.5 litre where getting every extra KW is hard earned.

So not knowing how restricted the MIVEC is but knowing they already have worse than Euro3 emission laws...
...there is only one way -

Sidewinder - you started this! You'll have to import the heads and get it done!

Sidewinder - you started this! You'll have to import the heads and get it done!

Funny you mention it, a mate over there has found a front cut for the new Eclipse (apparently the crash has done most of the "cutting"). Investigating to see if the engine has been knocked about or not, and also price.
What I do know is it already has an oversize TB and CAI in it, along with lightweight flywheel and heavy duty clutch, and a 6sp manual. So there will be some mods already done :D

Could be an interesting experiment :P

Should know more by end of next week at the latest.

Well, found out more about that wrecked Eclipse................ no go.


Trans has sheared off from impact, has buckled flywheel and a seized motor. Wonder how fast this ****-knuckle was travelling to do that amount of damage!

Oh well, will have to keep my eyes peeled for another wrecked Eclipse GT in the US.

Just gonna go back to the topic a bit here -

FINALLY installed the K&N along with the airbox 'n intake I ordered early this year to my stock standard car. First thing I noticed is the thing revs easier though I wouldn't go as far as saying it had an increased output.

Went on a highway drive for about 2400kms and noticed a definite fuel consumption decrease (I think I was pulling about 9.3 L/100 on 98RON with stock, then 8.8 L/100 on 95RON modified).

Reset the computer stats and now I'm pulling like mid 16s L/100km as opposed to the 14/15s I used to. I'll give it more time and see if it adjusts to city driving conditions.

Are you running any aftermarket exhaust products?

Just gonna go back to the topic a bit here -

FINALLY installed the K&N along with the airbox 'n intake I ordered early this year to my stock standard car. First thing I noticed is the thing revs easier though I wouldn't go as far as saying it had an increased output.

Went on a highway drive for about 2400kms and noticed a definite fuel consumption decrease (I think I was pulling about 9.3 L/100 on 98RON with stock, then 8.8 L/100 on 95RON modified).

Reset the computer stats and now I'm pulling like mid 16s L/100km as opposed to the 14/15s I used to. I'll give it more time and see if it adjusts to city driving conditions.

you drove 2400km??

SH00T:
As I mentioned - intake mod to a stock car only, i.e. using plain ol' platinum's so called sports exhaust.

Cybermonkey:
Yep, 2400km. I do a road trip across the east coast and back about once or twice a year - between far north queensland to sydney/canberra. Did it in two and a bit days each way. Stats I built up prior to erasing the trip computer (Syd->FNQ):

207 L
24:59 hours
93.3 avg km/h
8.8 L/100 km avg fuel
2331.6 km (so my memory was off by a few k's)

I actually almost got swept off the road by floods due to the big wet season early this year. I'm sure I was driving through a flash flood that went above my fog lights then the scenery in front of me just "shifted" to the left. Thankfully I had a lot of stuff in the back so the weight kept me on the road when I let go of the accelerator. Fortunately no flood damage! Kinda wished I had an SUV then!

You also have to give it a week or two for the computer to adjust to the new changes. I don't know the precise techo-speak for it, but something like that - assuming this mega drive you did was right after the install.

Sidey - or to anyone else who has done this.....how does the new air intake go with the seals on the bonnet? - i noticed when i had my bonnet up today :shock: , yes, that's right, i actually had me bonnet up!...that the bonnet seal rests against the intake where it sits just before the grill.....with the taller intake, how does this not affect something?

sorta confused myself typing that!....lol:nuts:

Hi guys,

Been a long time since I've been around, but fear not, I still have my 2007 series 2 Black Platinum 380 :cool:

Are thee bigger airintake parts still available to order from anywhere?
What are the part codes?
I can't seem to find them (could have sworn there was a thread here that laid out specifics but I can't seem to locate or search on it:nuts: )

Its time to power up the 380.
I'm thinking twin exhausts with extractors.

Look Here
http://www.aussiemagna.com//forums/showthread.php?t=56400&page=5&highlight=crack+intake

SH00T:
As I mentioned - intake mod to a stock car only, i.e. using plain ol' platinum's so called sports exhaust.

Cybermonkey:
Yep, 2400km. I do a road trip across the east coast and back about once or twice a year - between far north queensland to sydney/canberra. Did it in two and a bit days each way. Stats I built up prior to erasing the trip computer (Syd->FNQ):

207 L
24:59 hours
93.3 avg km/h
8.8 L/100 km avg fuel
2331.6 km (so my memory was off by a few k's)

I actually almost got swept off the road by floods due to the big wet season early this year. I'm sure I was driving through a flash flood that went above my fog lights then the scenery in front of me just "shifted" to the left. Thankfully I had a lot of stuff in the back so the weight kept me on the road when I let go of the accelerator. Fortunately no flood damage! Kinda wished I had an SUV then!

thats mental lol pretty good average u got there!

I drove back from Brisbane at new years when they had that insane rainfall on the north-coast NSW, most places had seen 300-400mm of rain. Pacific Highway was like a river for the most of it. I drove for 19 hours straight and covered only 980km's. Couldnt get above 70 for most of it because of the standing water.

On the way up though, i averaged 7.1l/100km in the TJ, almost made it to brisbane on a single tank!

the bonnet seal rests against the intake where it sits just before the grill.....with the taller intake, how does this not affect something?

I'll let you know what I find when I wash my car in a few days - if anything the seal restricts the airflow but at least provides good protection from having rainwater entering the engine.


Been a long time since I've been around, but fear not, I still have my 2007 series 2 Black Platinum 380
Hey Hey! Same one I got! Came from world youth day - the croatians, malaysians, filipinos and them other foreigners kept oodling at the car thinking it was like a statesman or something. They had no clue what the car was but definitely built up my ego at their comments about how impressive the car looked and probably that I get paid too much .. ended up becoming the personal driver for a bishop or vicar or whatever one of those high priests are called.


Couldnt get above 70 for most of it because of the standing water. Yeah, I learnt that the hard way. Early this year on the same flash flood trip going at 80km/h on cruise at night - saw a mirror finish on the road which hit only my left wheels then all of a sudden the car began to spin. Cruise control forced the accelerator so I immediately disengaged, applied counter steer and got back in control. All happened so quick - lucky to be alive. Had I been going at a 100, might not be here typing today.

holy moly :shock:

I have said it time and time again, cruise control and aquaplaning = death. No one believes me, but it happened on that trip, i very much lost control with the cruise on because of standing water

Sidey - or to anyone else who has done this.....how does the new air intake go with the seals on the bonnet? - i noticed when i had my bonnet up today :shock: , yes, that's right, i actually had me bonnet up!...that the bonnet seal rests against the intake where it sits just before the grill.....with the taller intake, how does this not affect something?

sorta confused myself typing that!....lol:nuts:
Quite a few of us on here have cut the section of rubber seal away that runs directly in front of the intake. I have had no adverse effects from it & although I cant really say there was a noticable improvement in performance, it would have to allow more air to enter the intake so thats got to be a good thing.

Yeah I took the front strip completely off (there's a front strip and a second/back strip, but the front strip covers the intake opening). I didn't feel any noticeable difference in power either, though it is supposed to be good for 1kW.

Look Here
http://www.aussiemagna.com//forums/showthread.php?t=56400&page=5&highlight=crack+intake


Thank you kind sir.
Parts have been ordered !!

Have decided to go out on a limb here. :nuts: I have been looking at full CAI kits on the US sites & have ordered the Fujita setup. From what I have read & our friend Sidewinder has also said is that the Eclipse Auto is pretty well identical to the Galant which is identical to our 380. The Fujita also doesn't throw the CEL like some of the other kits do. Will let you all know if it is successful. :pray:
http://www.fujitaonline.com/2006_2007_Mitsubishi_Eclipse_GT_p/ca-2707.htm

Have decided to go out on a limb here. :nuts: I have been looking at full CAI kits on the US sites & have ordered the Fujita setup. From what I have read & our friend Sidewinder has also said is that the Eclipse Auto is pretty well identical to the Galant which is identical to our 380. The Fujita also doesn't throw the CEL like some of the other kits do. Will let you all know if it is successful. :pray:
http://www.fujitaonline.com/2006_2007_Mitsubishi_Eclipse_GT_p/ca-2707.htm
I will be interested to see how that goes. I suppose if it doesnt work, you can always just revert back to your current set up??

I will be interested to see how that goes. I suppose if it doesnt work, you can always just revert back to your current set up??
Yep thats true but at the worst I reckon the mounting points may be slightly out which is fixable. The MAF sensor on theirs looks slightly different but the mounting point looks similar, guess I'll find out when it arrives. Nothing a tig welder cant fix anyway.

Nice find Rob.


Free NOS Energy Drink courtesy of drinknos.com

Mmmm...enjoy!

Have decided to go out on a limb here. :nuts: I have been looking at full CAI kits on the US sites & have ordered the Fujita setup. From what I have read & our friend Sidewinder has also said is that the Eclipse Auto is pretty well identical to the Galant which is identical to our 380. The Fujita also doesn't throw the CEL like some of the other kits do. Will let you all know if it is successful. :pray:
http://www.fujitaonline.com/2006_2007_Mitsubishi_Eclipse_GT_p/ca-2707.htm


Yeah, most of the Club9G guys who have the 6G75 are running a CAI setup from the Eclipse, so pretty good chances of it running fine. Some are also running a BRAT box to compensate for AFM/O2 readings into the ECU, but they are running aftermarket headers along with their intake.

Yeah, most of the Club9G guys who have the 6G75 are running a CAI setup from the Eclipse, so pretty good chances of it running fine. Some are also running a BRAT box to compensate for AFM/O2 readings into the ECU, but they are running aftermarket headers along with their intake.
Yep well I already have all that so should be cool :cool:

So does anyone know where we can purchase the intake snorkel online (besides ebay)? Given the strong aussie dollar it should be picked up fairly cheaply.

So does anyone know where we can purchase the intake snorkel online (besides ebay)? Given the strong aussie dollar it should be picked up fairly cheaply.

http://www.rchillmitsubishi.com/parts/order-form.htm

That's the website to purchase the us galant intake from.

So does anyone know where we can purchase the intake snorkel online (besides ebay)? Given the strong aussie dollar it should be picked up fairly cheaply.

yeah..but why not just get it from e-bay,better still,the guy is here in Adelaide and you wont have to wait yonks for it...

Mitsubishi 380 high flow air intake snorkel galant (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mitsubishi-380-high-flow-air-intake-snorkel-galant-/160533132821?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2560853615)

Have been browsing the forums today. :P
Ordered both the snorkle and air box from the states today for 121.22AUD inc postage. Have the K&N filter also comming from the states for $70.62. Sourced a tin of MAF cleaner from supercheap for $25.
Looking forward too some fun.

Have recieved all my bits and pieces, will atempt to install this weekend if not pouring. :P
Sourced the 5 star allen key from england via ebay, for approx $7 posted.

OK did this over the weekend.

The torx 5 point allen key I got from England via ebay (http://stores.ebay.com.au/Nadia-Autoparts ) for approx. $7 posted. I got a can of CRC MAF cleaner from supercheap for $25. http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.n...r?openDocument
The KR air filter I ordered from the states, also via ebay, cost about $71 delivered. (http://stores.ebay.com.au/Autocom-Performance-Parts )
The box and snorkel came from RC Hill Mitsubishi, http://www.rchillmitsu.com
The part numbers if needed are:
Air intake "snorkel" component: MN156778
Front half of air filter box: MN180008

My 2 and a half year old son wanted to help, so it took me a little longer to do. All up with mistakes, took about an hour.
Things to remember:
I had to disconnect the MAF sensor cable to pull the air filter back up high enough to attach the front box.
The KR filter only goes in one way.
The combined filter box should fit back in easily, if it doesn’t, you have something in the way.
Pull the lead of the MAF out of the way and put it somewhere safe or once you have the box bolted down, you will find that the MAF cable disappears under the box. :P Luckily I didn’t damage the cable.

Installation was dead easy, and acceleration seems better.

Congratulations. Well done. Now for the other mods?

Have recieved all my bits and pieces, will atempt to install this weekend if not pouring. :P
Sourced the 5 star allen key from england via ebay, for approx $7 posted.

Whats the 5 star allen key needed for? didnt see it required in the install guide posted by sidewinder...

could be just for tightning the chromatic rear view mirror?

Whats the 5 star allen key needed for? didnt see it required in the install guide posted by sidewinder...

It's to remove the MAF sensor from the intake pipe. I undid mine with a normal screwdriver breaking the centre pin out & replaced with normal phillips head screws.

Yeah, its for the MAF sensor. I removem mine to clean it. I couldnt source one anywhere in Australia. :P

ah ok, i just wanted to confirm it wasn't necessary for the intake swap or filter change.

you should be able to do this in 10-15 mins (depending on how many times you stop to take a sip from your beer/coffee)

Took me a little over 2 hours, and i'm no mechanical noob! I almost gave up trying to put the box back in after i'd cut it up for the galant intake, i could have cried

Took me a little over 2 hours, and i'm no mechanical noob! I almost gave up trying to put the box back in after i'd cut it up for the galant intake, i could have cried

Im going to undertake this excercise very soon but this previous post worries me lol

took me 15 mins and I am totally a noob when it comes to motors

Bit longer than that for me, but the LPG install makes some of the bolts a real B**ch to get at

ah i had another crack to put the k&n filter in, you just have to make sure you put the back of the airbox down into those hinge like things. missed that memo the time before!

Got my intake in the mail today from ebay. Comparing it to the stock intake, I can see how it'd make a difference, it's huge in comparison!

So to make sure I'm not a newb, all I need to do is:

File down the edge in the circular part
File/Cut the pointy bit out
plug it in and enjoy

Got my intake in the mail today from ebay. Comparing it to the stock intake, I can see how it'd make a difference, it's huge in comparison!

So to make sure I'm not a newb, all I need to do is:

File down the edge in the circular part
File/Cut the pointy bit out
plug it in and enjoy


Yes!!

Makum look like dis......white man....( Insert Indian Chief voice Here)

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/100_3183.jpg

missing a K&N in there AHHAHAHAHAHAHA

Makum look like dis......white man....( Insert Indian Chief voice Here)

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/sidewinder42/100_3183.jpg

and then just leave the intake OFF for an even bigger intake roar;

do yourself at least a favour ,and ,when you have cut it out ,take it for a spin with it off first,you wont be dissapointed...

remember,plenty off WOT and FULL pedal pressure when you hit it.

missing a K&N in there AHHAHAHAHAHAHA

There aint nothing better than a fresh paper filter......
But your plan of attack is spot M4DDoG

But thats cool Mecha, I know where you are coming from, You like more Pink ;) lol

There aint nothing better than a fresh paper filter......


I second that!

Ok i am keen to try this mod of the larger snorkel, who is near Newcastle i can travel to give a hand in case i look like making a balls up of things ?.

Refreshments provided.



Steve

this is easy to do it took me about 15 minutes all up to do.

well i ground out the hole on the air box for the air intake snorkel, did it while at work and it seems all good, yet to drive it and see the difference but was fairly easy to do, the only pain was getting the filter back in right and the bottom of the air box to match up.

All done and many thanks for the pics, hopefully some improvement on economy with old intake around 12.3 ltr's 100klm and mainly around town driving.

Now to arrange the timing belt service, not due til Aug but hey get in early and play it safe.

Have just installed the snorkel as well... another happy customer...I only had the snorkel part ( got it from EBay for $59.95 )... took out the seal & filed the pre-determined shape on the existing box, this gave me a nice snug fit using a 1" half round 2nd cut file...took about 15 to 20 min to do the job. Looks much better now, like it shouldve been factory fitted here in Oz..thanks again for your article its a good guide.

Surprised this thread still exists after so long!!

Love the intake hiss as you floor it on a cold morning!

Surprised this thread still exists after so long!!

Love the intake hiss as you floor it on a cold morning!

Even does it at idle first thing too (not heavy)...really noticeable when going along the p...way & your driving next to the wall...wondered what that was & it was me...i found out because I had the the window down doing about 140+ in third..love third gear in this thing heh heh..(am not advocating speeding, had an emergency):hmm:

Haven't had time to read through entire thread, but can anyone point me to a link where I can purchase the air intake? Can't find it anywhere.

Haven't had time to read through entire thread, but can anyone point me to a link where I can purchase the air intake? Can't find it anywhere.

PM Sent

Don't think this was mentioned, but should I take out the whole box before filing out the hole or can I do it with it just sitting in there?

Link below for those that want it.


Mitsubishi 380 high flow air intake snorkel galant (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-380-high-flow-air-intake-snorkel-galant-/160793450715?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25700958db)

Thanks Maggie! Been looking for a link for a while.

Done! Bought off Michael's post above. Another 380 going to be running the intake. Going to do it my self too so lets hope I dont stuff it.

So my new air intake arrived (ordered it 2 days ago). I remember reading about taking the intake off completely and going for a cruise. Holy Jesus that was insane. Sounded so throaty.

Yet to put the new one on though.

So my new air intake arrived (ordered it 2 days ago). I remember reading about taking the intake off completely and going for a cruise. Holy Jesus that was insane. Sounded so throaty.

Yet to put the new one on though.

Yep, plenty of induction roar, but does nothing for performance or fuel economy.

Stick the new intake on and you'll still have a bit of induction noise, just more refined.

You should also notice a small improvement in mid-range torque and "driveability".

New intake on. Seriously recommend everyone just to do it your self. Easy job finished in half an hour total. Cant tell all the difference right now but will see today. Thanks to this thread aswell made it easy as.

I have been looking around for the parts to put this in my 380.. My 380 is a 2006 model, does it matter what year the galant intake is from? Looking on ebay, there was ones from 2005 and 2008.. Is there a difference apart from the year it was made?

The same for all years, makes no difference.

The same for all years, makes no difference.

Sweet, thanks mate!

I would just like to confirm the New Zealand VRX models do have the bigger intake I just got a second hand one from the wrecker for $100 NZD ($92 AUD) and were $172.50 NZD ($158 AUD) from the Mitsi Dealer.