Started the conversion today.....

INFO: I purchased 2 drive shaft oil seals- part no. MD755526 cost $14.43 ea

Torque Wrench settings:

Engine mounts:
Left hand side-mounting nuts 69-93Nm
through bolt 69Nm
Front and rear-bracket 69Nm
through bolt 69Nm

Transaxle to engine bolts 50Nm
Flywheel Bolts 98Nm
pressure plate to flywheel bolts 25Nm

If you need to convert Nm to foot pounds..........foot pounds = Nm x 0.7376

First:

Make Sure you have all the Parts

My Kit came for $750 came with:

Gearbox
Drive Shafts
ECU (dont need this)
Gear lever and Cables
reverse plug
speed sensor plug
flywheel, clutch and pressure plate
Instrument cluster (dont need this but i'm taking the black shroud out and replacing it in mine so the are no R,N,D,3,2,1 lights)
Clutch Pedal, master/slave cyclinder, tubing, reservoir
Brake pedal
gearbox mounts x3
Sandwich Plate
and all the bolts and bits and pieces.

Then Make sure that the area you are going to do all the work in is nice and clean, you dont want any crap going into the box.


Before removing anything from the car, I cleaned the gearbox, it took about 4 hours but its worth it.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/100_2759.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/100_2757.jpg




I removed the air intake, disconnected the battery and removed the battery tray. I also went along and disconnected all the wiring from the box.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/100_2763.jpg




then on the inside of the car I removed all the plastic fromunder the steering wheel and removed the centre console. I also removed the Auto shifter and pull the cables throught the firewall and installed the manual shifter

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/100_2764.jpg




and then pull the manual cables through the firewall but didn't screw it in yet

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/100_2768.jpg




then I drilled out the holes for the clutch pedal which I dont have pics for yet but do have one of where the holes have to go, luckly on the magna they are marked out

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/100_2767.jpg

Drilled out the holes for the master cyclinder (which I forgot to take a photo of but its pretty self explanitory) using a dremel and a small bit that fit and drilled about 50 holes around the circle poped out the steel and grinded it flush.

then installed the clutch pedaland master cyclinder together as the master cyclinder goes through the back of the pedal. To bolt it up the are 2 nuts to do up in the engine and 2 bolt at the top of the pedal (just dont forget the 2 bolts as they my be easy to forget or not notice)

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/Picture005-1-1.jpg


http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/Picture001.jpg

next will be changing the brake pedal

Completed changing over the brake pedal, after it was all put back together I went to plug the brake light plug in and discovered it was a different connection, so just check if before you put the manual one in. I got around this problem by simply changing over the pedal onto the old bracket.

I also removed the drive shafts today. passenger side was easy using 2 large screw drivers and lever it out. I probably did it thard way but i took out the suspension instead of undoing the ball joints. when removing the nut on the driveshaft, have some press the brake while you undo it, and also have a new split pin handy.

so it should like something like this

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/Picture006-2.jpg


http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/Picture007-1.jpg

after that remove the starter motor 1 bolt is on the engine side and 1 is on the gearbox side.


http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/Picture008-1.jpg



then remove the plate to get access to the torque converter and using a screw driver lever the flywheel throught the hole where the starter motor was until you are able to see the bolt securing the torque converter keep rotating the flywheel until all the bolts have been removed and push the torque converter back.


http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/Picture011.jpg

I removed the bolts along the bottom of the box on the engine side and then just cracked the top bolts but didn't remove, then attached the engine hoist the the 2 studs closest to the flywheel and placed a jack under the engine on the sump with a piece of timber to distrubute the weight. then removed the top bolts holding the box, and then removed the through bolts on the mounts. Then just lowered the box down

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/100_2782-1.jpg

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/100_2784.jpg

STUFF UP FOR TODAY WAS (so make sure you dont make the same mistake)

you'll need about 450-500mm clearance from the bumper bar to the ground or the box wont slide out and this will need to be done.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/100_2786.jpg


On the crank this is a plate that will need to be changed the auto looks like this

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/Picture012.jpg

and the maual one like this (there is also a spacer and adapter plate shown in the pic which gets bolted in with it)

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/Picture013.jpg

I put the flywheel onto the crank and then attach the clutch and pressure plate. (*TIP: if you are having trouble alignin the clutch use a deep 5/8 socket to align it) then it was a matter of lifting box up and pushing it in and bolting it up. the rear and left mount will need to come out as they get in the way when putting the box in.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/Picture017.jpg


I found the that driveshafts where a little bit shorter than the auto ones.

I ran the clutch lines on the firewall where the clips are.


http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/Picture018.jpg



when I came to wiring, I found that on the inhibitor switch you need the connect Black/yellow and Black/Red together (this is what tricks the ECU into thinking that it is in neutral). Then for the Reverse switch I connect the Black/white wire to the red wire on the reverse light plug the red/blue wire to the red/blue wire on the plug. Its should now start.

as i posted in your other thread, you must make sure you also have the sandwich plate otherwise your starter motor will not bolt in.

That is awesome mate!!!! Many will benefit from this.

yep added that to list that have...just skipped it

I keep adding as i find things.

another handy little thing is on the cluster if you blacken PND123 and leave R then when you shift into reverse the R light still comes on (i thought that was a nice effect..)

nice mate!, did you change the thrust bearing while you were at it?

atm i'm just getting the auto out...:bowrofl: this is a real bitch of a job, but well be rewarded in the end hopefully

however i have changed all the oil seals in the manual, i'll put the part numbers up soon

and am cleaning up the motor as i go as I had a oil filter adapter in the past break causing oil to spray everywhere.

finally its out!!!! YAY

good work mate how long to take it out in total?

:bowrofl: I knew someone would ask....bare in mind that I'm in pain atm....but 5hours so far

6 hrs to get the manual in and spinnin:D

ok I think I may have a problem...does anyone know if the balance of the flywheel is affected by removing the above plate? as that is how the wreckers gave it to m

Which plate?

driveplate

nah it dont matter which way its bolted on... but there is a front and back of it.... you should be able to determine by the marks that are on it

cheers mate, i was stressing for a second there.....so i take it magnas are internally balanced?

not sure.... but i just wacked mine on the way i thought it went had no probs at all:doubt:

has anyone modified a sandwich plate for the manaul conversion....


or could i just cut the starter motor section of the sandwich plate off?

the auto one is thicker i think:confused: you possibly could just hack it up with a grinder... i thought it was there to help it sit in the right position to engage on the flywheel properly

ok another hour an a half wasted :rant: ...I put the manual sandwich plate on.

and now I'm up to the part where I need some help

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/Picture024-1.jpg


http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd104/91ows/Picture025-1.jpg



Is this all I need to do. Just join 2 sets of wires?

yeah just the reverse wires and the ones for inhibitor switch.... if you cant get it to work just put inhibitor switch in neutral and plug it back in.... i did this till i had time to figure out what wires went where

ok all done and running.....will post up the rest of the pics later

only thing is everytime i stop it stalls.....:rant: any suggestions

only thing is everytime i stop it stalls.....:rant: any suggestions
Push the clutch in? :bowrofl:

:bowrofl: :bowrofl: whats the clutch?????

nah seriously every set of lights i stoped at it'd just stall

:bowrofl: :bowrofl: whats the clutch?????

nah seriously every set of lights i stoped at it'd just stall
you idol speed contorller or gunk in your throttel body just check it all as you might have bumped something when you took all you air intake off

works again....I just let it idle for 10mins now its all good

works again....I just let it idle for 10mins now its all good

did you dis connect your battery?? if you did the ecu is relearning how to idle,ect...

good job mate and good write up. Must be grinning now with the extra power. I have seen ya car at Orion at Springfield. I'll catch up next time I see ya.

good work.... im guessing you didnt have that many problems..... how long all up...

probably about 24hours straight and had to do it by myself.

Massive difference to the sludge box.....also might just be me but it also sounds even better than it did before.




good job mate and good write up. Must be grinning now with the extra power. I have seen ya car at Orion at Springfield. I'll catch up next time I see ya.


Yeah, I go down there a far bit cause I'm at USQ. Should catch up one day.


Edit*and the stalling was cause I disconnected the battery

i believe i said the same thing when i did mine

Thats awesome!
Should of painted the transmission while it was out :bowrofl:
Great thread, Pictures are awesome

any 1 on the central coast help me out with this conversion?

any 1 on the central coast help me out with this conversion?


possibly.....

thread updated with some torque settings and driveshaft seal part number....if anyone can think of anything else please let me know

hey mate... nice job on the write up. I have a couple of questions though.

I've installed the gear stick and cables, clutch pedal and brake pedal. the brake switch was there, but I don't recall any wiring on the clutch pedal or gear stick. I have the full wiring loom including ECU, so I should have everything I need, I just don't know what to look for.

also, I noticed that you had removed the flywheel and clutch from your gearbox (or maybe it came that way). I'm replacing both, but the original items are still connected and I can't find how to get them off.

any pointers would be helpful!

cheers,
.wook

there is no wiring to the clutch pedal or gear stick...unless you have cruise control (i think)

if the flywheel and clucth ass. is in the box you'll need to release it with 2 screw drivers. You'll need an assistant.

there's an inpsection hole plug at the botom of the box, just push it in and let it fall into the box, then remove the top breather, place a LARGE screwdriver into the top and bottom holes and wedge (without force) it inbetween the pressue plate and release bearing, then while pulling the clutch lever towards passenger side of the car rotate the 2 screw drivers 90 degress. then remove the screwdrivers and push the clutch lever all the way to the drivers sided of the car, if it does go all the way then you need to try again. after that you should be able to pull the flywheel and clutch out.


oh and when you install it the flywheel and clutch are bolted onto the crank before the box is put in

there is no wiring to the clutch pedal or gear stick...unless you have cruise control (i think)

I have cruise... will have to dig through the wiring diagrams and see what I need.


if the flywheel and clucth ass. is in the box you'll need to release it with 2 screw drivers. You'll need an assistant.

there's an inpsection hole plug at the botom of the box, just push it in and let it fall into the box, then remove the top breather, place a LARGE screwdriver into the top and bottom holes and wedge (without force) it inbetween the pressue plate and release bearing, then while pulling the clutch lever towards passenger side of the car rotate the 2 screw drivers 90 degress. then remove the screwdrivers and push the clutch lever all the way to the drivers sided of the car, if it does go all the way then you need to try again. after that you should be able to pull the flywheel and clutch out.


oh and when you install it the flywheel and clutch are bolted onto the crank before the box is put in

cheers for that... will give it a whirl sometime this week.

.wook

just a quick update on this...

I killed my thrust bearing because the instructions and diagram in the service manual. they're $225 from Mitsu, so be careful when removing the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate.

basically, there's a circular spring mounted on the pressure plate. it's this that you need to compress in order to release the pressure plate from the thrust bearing.

here are the original pictures from the service manual:
http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/7442/releasebearingah8.jpg

the first two show you where the openings are to put your screw drivers in.

the last one is what confused the hell out of me, so I decided to redo it a little bit.

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/1860/releasebearingdetailedvd1.jpg

should be a little more straight forward now.

cheers,
.wook

ahhhh crap i missed the word "clip" when i typed that up.....i'm real sorry mate:cry:

pics make it easier

any1 know what wires are the reverse lights and inhabitor switch for the conversion?
thanks

look at post 5

ok this is done and the inhibitor switch is done and works fine but i still have no reverse lights... i have dont the exact same as YLD35L(well he done it) and still no lights... BUT before i took the auto out i had lost my instrument lights P R N D 1 2... what can be wrong and has any1 had this prob?

just join red/blue to black/white without the switch if they still dont work you have other problems somewhere else.

let me know how you go

just join red/blue to black/white without the switch if they still dont work you have other problems somewhere else.

let me know how you go
ok so should i still have the switch pluged in? so from reading all this would i be right in saying that the switch should be pluged in and set as reverse and bypass the nutral point by doing the other wires? we have bypassed the nutral side of things but the switch is sitting on my driveway should i plug it in and set it to R?

nope just join the wires listed above, you don't need the switch on the plug at all.

nope just join the wires listed above, you don't need the switch on the plug at all.
uuuhhh... ok i got bigger probs then! would there be a fuse i could have blown for this?

Hey 91ows, great work with the conversion. What I was wondering is where you got your parts from? Did you just scavenge around wreckers and got a good deal because $750 sounds like a bargain.

parts plus in sandgate.....there were heaps of conversion kits around but they were the cheapest, even had a new exedy clutch with it

parts plus in sandgate.....there were heaps of conversion kits around but they were the cheapest, even had a new exedy clutch with it

i spoke them when i was sourcing my my parts too, they had plenty of 3 litre conversion stuff, just no 3.5 stuff for me

yeah i would imagine a 3.5 would be harder to find. try magna wreck on the goldy

Took me 3 months to find my 3.5L manual box. They're out there you just gotta wait till they pop up.

I paid $500 For a complete TJ 00 5speed manual. I now have to do the conversion.

one thing i need to ask i have a 2002 TJII and the cluster has the digital odo read out will the speed sensor still work ???


MODS need to make this sticky

they are all done electronically

Can't you just use your current cluster and blank off the auto lights?

i think hes talking about the odo (how many k's travelled)

That's what I meant, stick with the current cluster (with the cars real kms) and blank off the auto lights.

the speed sensor should be the same but probably best bet is to call mitsu and see if there was a variation

I got quoted $650 for manual transmission + all parts for a conversion, but the transmission looks so dodge, all rusty and stuff. So got a quote for a recondition - $750. Do you think it's worth it? Cause the recondition will come with a warranty. I'd rather just buy a decent manual transmission (own a 3L btw) with the parts and not waste time/money on reconditioning it.

hi guys

im after a little advice

today my manual conversion was almost completed, near the end my mate noticed that the computer i got with my conversion kit was from a 3 litre, my computer was metal and the 1 i got in the kit was plastic, we decided to keep the auto computer.

i went and checked the receipt and it says that it came from a TJ, im just wondering if this was possible, i didnt think the TJ came in a 3litre

i have my mate checking the part number on the box in the morning to see if its a 3 litre box.

it seems like ive been ripped off here, any thoughts???????

Yeh TJ/KJ never came with a 3.0L donk

exactly what i thought

im gunna kick up some stink tomorrow

you were probably only given the bcm.......... Body Control Module which goes under your steering wheel area

you should be able to run the car car with your original ecu . Just a matter of tricking the inhibitor switch. Members have claimed to run a 3.5 manual using a 3.0 auto ecu

Yeh TJ/KJ never came with a 3.0L donk


The early TJ's had the 3.0 in the line up. There is quite a few people on here who have them. But were removed as if series 1.5. KJ's only ever had the 3.5 donk.

Clicky Clicky (http://www.redbook.com.au/used-cars/details.aspx?acv=nog9lw_FQFw.&__No=15&__Ns=p_Make_String|0||p_ClassificationType_String| 0||p_Family_String|0||p_Year_String|1||p_SequenceN um_Int32|0&__Nne=15&Cr=8&__N=0%204294949495%204294966918%204294965872&__sid=11D39872DCB0&R=86041)

Hopfully I can get my conversion started soon. Just a quick question. Which drive shafts are different from the auto. Or are both different?

The early TJ's had the 3.0 in the line up. There is quite a few people on here who have them. But were removed as if series 1.5. KJ's only ever had the 3.5 donk.

Clicky Clicky (http://www.redbook.com.au/used-cars/details.aspx?acv=nog9lw_FQFw.&__No=15&__Ns=p_Make_String|0||p_ClassificationType_String| 0||p_Family_String|0||p_Year_String|1||p_SequenceN um_Int32|0&__Nne=15&Cr=8&__N=0%204294949495%204294966918%204294965872&__sid=11D39872DCB0&R=86041)
Hmmm interesting...

I replaced both shafts

from memory its the half shaft that needs to be replaced noit the actual drive shafts.

its because of the length auto one is about 10mm to long

good job

Hi 91ows, just wondering if you still have the pics of the install anywhere?

INFO: I purchased 2 drive shaft oil seals- part no. MD755526 cost $14.43 ea

Hey mate, Whereabouts Did you get the Seals From? :) Cheers!

Just letting you know this thread is almost 3 years old and 91ows hasn't been on in almost 2, so... you might not get a reply lol

Were you wondering where to get seals or have you already got em?

Looks like a part number that you can take to a mitsubishi dealer and they should be able to help. Or a VIN number/year and model if they are nice, for the car the gearbox is out of and ask for the driveshaft seals.

Hahah yeah im new to this site and forums, just realised now lol....but found the part number for the seals, rang mitsubishi in parramatta and they have them there for $18 :) bargain!

who has the part number for the manual shaft?
probebly doing conversion tomorrow and need to be sure i have a manual one!

As in the intermediate shaft, good luck with that as they are over $500 last I checked, think Mohit was the last one I know of to purchase one of these. The manual shaft is 5mm shorter than the auto, generally if I need one and I dont have one, I modify an Auto shaft to fit

As in the intermediate shaft, good luck with that as they are over $500 last I checked, think Mohit was the last one I know of to purchase one of these. The manual shaft is 5mm shorter than the auto, generally if I need one and I dont have one, I modify an Auto shaft to fit

yeah the intermediate shaft! so mod as in cut the 5mm off the box side of the shaft or 2.5mm off each end? also does the dust shield need to be modded?

5mm off the gearbox end. If you look inside the manual gearbox you will see the shaft for the planetary gears inside the differential. This is what the shaft hits on.