Hello

Changing thrust bearing today. Thanks ray firstly.

Everything went fine dropped the gbox and got it back in, in about 2.5hrs.

Except the gearbox filler hole was on nuts tight. I remember i had problems with it last time.

Anyway its rounded and on ridiculously tight. Ray had a go at it with a stick welder and it wouldn't budge. The welds kept breaking. So im wondering how i go about getting it off. Its like an aluminium alloy but none of my mates have tigs or better welders.
It's tight for a drill too, maybe it can be drilled out + ease out's as i was told today.

I don't know who to contact or anything about this. Any help would be great thanks.

aj

Definitely use easy-outs. Take it to any reputable engine rebuilder or head service mob and they will have the tools and do it in a flash.

Definitely use easy-outs. Take it to any reputable engine rebuilder or head service mob and they will have the tools and do it in a flash.

Sounds like a fill up through the speedo hole in that case. Might have a go with innox and vice grips. Although no innox will get in the threads.

EDIT no luck....

Dependas how good you are with the grinder..?? You can cut two parallel sides on the nut to kinda make it look like rectangle head. then hit it with a big shifter.. other thing is a small notch in the size and hit it with a large screw driver and hammer.. :)


Rounded nuts are usually the cause of crap tools..:)

Rounded nuts are usually the cause of crap tools..:)

Or the wrong tool! like ego said... grind two sides flat and try a shifter or a good fitting spanner...

Depending on how much space you have to work in, try drilling a fairly large and deep hole in the bolt, and heating it up with a gas torch before using a screw extractor.

i was reading the other day in the new street machine mag (it had an article on this sort of thing) and one suggestion was to hammer a size smaller socket onto the rounded off nut, and have a go at loosening it that way with the new smaller socket smashed on basically.

it doesnt say though, how you get the socket off once you eventually get the nut off....

have you tried giving it a solid wack with a rubber mallet or similar to try and loosen it off?
i would think so... in that youv tried heat and everything else.

EZ out is not the solution here, I have had the filler hole on the 2nd gens be an isue when cars have come to me with rounded heads.

The thing here is a little patience, file the hex back to a smaller size, use either a single hex impact socket or a snap-on or similar socket which grips the flat of the hex not the corners.

The issue with these are they lock up in the threads, once someone has damaged it it is histroy.

Second option, take it somewhere you can get a 17mm nut welded onto it, it is steel so can be welded, dont waste your time with a stick welder, you will not get enough penetration into it.

the only reasonable solution in this thread so far is what doddski has said. get a socket (multi-hex one, not single-hex) that is just to small to fit on and hit it down with a hammer until it's all the way down, then use a ratchet or breaker bar to undo it. this will be your best option. don't try to weld anything on as it's cast alloy and nothing will stick to it even with an aluminium tig welder it will still break off.

Its basically round now. Nothing will purchase. If no sucess i'll be grinding it to fit an open end as ego said.

I think it's a weld or drill it out solution though at the moment.

Might give my exhaust shop a call tomorrow.

Open end spanner will open up as these get damn tight

Milti hex is no good, they will only grip on a small amount where as the single hex will be better

Best option, weld and then crack the bugger off while hot

i agree with the welding, tho, to make it easier for yourself, cool the plug down, then apply heat to the g/b case around the plug. It is an alloy so will expand faster than the steel plug. Then hit it with some loctite freeze if you can and bingo bango, plug is out.

Now i may be talking crap here but isnt there a tool out there that kinda looks like a big chisel and a screw driver too. Its for tight screws. you put it on the screw and hit it with a hammer and with the downward force from the hammer makes it turn like a screw driver. Do people know the tool im talking about.

If you cut a small slit in the top with grinder or hacksaw blade then hit it with one of these tools.:)

Now i may be talking crap here but isnt there a tool out there that kinda looks like a big chisel and a screw driver too. Its for tight screws. you put it on the screw and hit it with a hammer and with the downward force from the hammer makes it turn like a screw driver. Do people know the tool im talking about.

If you cut a small slit in the top with grinder or hacksaw blade then hit it with one of these tools.:)

Yeah its called an IMPACT DRIVER i got one very handy...

good for stripped phillips heads... cut a new slot, tap tap and away you go...

Yeah its called an IMPACT DRIVER i got one very handy...

good for stripped phillips heads... cut a new slot, tap tap and away you go...


So would it work in this case if he cuts a slot on the top of the nut..????

Oh and by the way... heating the case will only tighten its grip on the bolt.... when the alloy expands... heating usually helps with chemical bonding.

Best bet is to grind a slot and use impact driver, seccond is to FREEZE the bolt to shrink it, hit with hammer and try again with impact driver.

If all else fails use a socket(if it doesnt split when you force it over it may work aswell...

Good lick!oh i mean Luck!

worth about $30 from bunnings, comes with all the drivers needed. and can also use sockets i thiks with the right hex adapter

An impact driver is not going to work, is not designed for a bolt that is about 15mm thread. WOuld be great if it did though

The welds kept breaking. So im wondering how i go about getting it off. Its like an aluminium alloy but none of my mates have tigs or better welders.

so when you wrote this were you talking about the plug or the gearbox housing. if you were talking about the plug then YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO WELD ANYTHING TO IT, well not anything that will hold it strong enough to undo.

just go to your local exhaust shop and tell them the problem and ask if they can fix it, if they have any idea what they are doing the should be able to as i spent alot of my time removing rounded and snapped off bolts in tight places when working at the exhaust shop.

so when you wrote this were you talking about the plug or the gearbox housing. if you were talking about the plug then YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO WELD ANYTHING TO IT, well not anything that will hold it strong enough to undo.

just go to your local exhaust shop and tell them the problem and ask if they can fix it, if they have any idea what they are doing the should be able to as i spent alot of my time removing rounded and snapped off bolts in tight places when working at the exhaust shop.

Filler plug of course. Hoping that a mig weld can stick otherwise see what they recommend.

Pretty annoying. Definately whacking some loctite lube on the new thread.

Thanks all

i'm telling you now that a mig won't stick to it. they will probably just use vice grips or a small pair of stilsons on it but good luck either way.

There is a tool you can buy that is made to grip rounded nuts/bolts. It looks a but like a monkey wrench, but the top half is spring loaded. Basically the larger the force you apply to it, the more it grips the nut/bolt.

The filler plug on my old Corolla is stuck real good. I used this tool with long pipe sleeve over it's handle for better leverage AND a car jack to push against it and the damn plug didn't come off!!! It actually started lifting the car!!!!

So I just took off the shifter and filled it from the top. lol

You might find some useful information in this thread (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29606), If not, it is a good read.

Courtesy of Black Beard.

There is a tool you can buy that is made to grip rounded nuts/bolts. It looks a but like a monkey wrench, but the top half is spring loaded. Basically the larger the force you apply to it, the more it grips the nut/bolt.



That's a stilson spanner.... evil stuff but it works quite well...

If you ever get a good purchase on the plug.... it seems counter intuitve but... if you slightly tighten the bolt... then back it out it'll come good.....

I was going to recommend the smaller spanner and bash it on carefully with a hammer... don't hit the case.... nasty stuff.

Then suggest filing at least 2 flats on the plug and try with a good spanner (shifter or stilson)

Or centre punch the bugger... and VERY CAREFULLY drill out the centre of the plug gradually getting a bigger drill till all thats left is the shell of the plug... get a small punch, grind it down to a chisel point and carefully bend one side to the centre and pull it out....
I do that at work quite a lot.... corrosion makes bolts stick bad.

EZY outs will only break off and make it even harder to remove.....


Sadly this is what happens when the wrong tool is used......
If my spanner(s) slip on something like this I never ever use the same plug again... I get a new one as later down the track you end up with the same prob as you have...

Good luck man... be patient and she'll come out.

Steve

Taking it to the exhaust shop tomorrow if the racq will tow me for free.

I might try bash a multihex on for an hr now and see if i can make any progress.

TIG got it off (Y)