Hey guys

Don't know if this same problem is common and been addressed before, but I have a TR 2.6 auto, and during acceleration, I think its while in 2nd, there is a really loud rattling coming from I believe the passenger side. (loud meaning can be heard over my already loud music)

Also when i'm stopped for periods of time in drive, the car starts to violently shake, and to stop it i have to put it in nuetral or park, returning then as soon as I return it to drive.
The shaking kicks in probably after 5-10 seconds of being stationary.

Being not very technical minded these questions might be nothing, but thought I'd throw it to you guys because even though I haven't been here long, it's obvious you guys know your **** :P

Cheers
-Blaine

Yeah ive got the rough idle too, i just deal with it, or put it in park if i know im going to be at the lights for 50 hours lol

Our TR has a slightly rough idle, although nothing much compared to what it used to be like. Ours was heaps worse before we machined the heads. Might be an extravagant thing to do but it did help with rough idle. Didn't machine the heads for that reason alone though.

Not sure about the first q. Engine mount maybe?

ah cheers guys

yeah I'm just dealing with it
just wanted to check it wasn't anything I needed to worry about too much
As for the first question I guess its nothing too bad, (or atleast hope lol), but chances are I'm guessing it's just something loose and with the vibrations of the car accelerating is just making it flap about

my rouch idle is caused by my alternator. Atm, not sure if it's buggered or usual for the magna but it's very rough. Turns itself on very often and the idle becomes rough and higher when it turns itself on. Check your alternator.Otherwise it's just a rough idle (if it's high, adjust it with the idle adjuster screw, if not don't worry about it as it's normal for our magnas Best of luck,

~twiggy~

Rough idle isnt normally just one thing:

Check ISC
Make sure idle is set correct - dont adjust too high as increases fuel consumption
Make sure spark plugs / leads / rotor / dizzy cap are in good condition
I've been able to reduce mine by putting a plastic tie on my radiator to reduce its vibration
Clean throttle body
Clean injectors
Do a search of forums (50+ threads)

Alot of people guess from ISC to torque convertor (they say torque because most manuals dont have it) - its never the same problem across all magna's

Even the 3rd gens have it, but its normally smaller

Thanks guys I'll check all those things :)

The only one I can cross out is the leads and plugs as they've just been replaced a couple of weeks ago

my rouch idle is caused by my alternator. Atm, not sure if it's buggered or usual for the magna but it's very rough. Turns itself on very often and the idle becomes rough and higher when it turns itself on. Check your alternator.Otherwise it's just a rough idle (if it's high, adjust it with the idle adjuster screw, if not don't worry about it as it's normal for our magnas Best of luck,

~twiggy~
What does your alternator have to do with Rough idle :S

This might sound daft, but you're not coming to a stop in drive, and putting your handbrake on rather than keeping your foot on the brake are you?

my rouch idle is caused by my alternator. Atm, not sure if it's buggered or usual for the magna but it's very rough. Turns itself on very often and the idle becomes rough and higher when it turns itself on. Check your alternator.Otherwise it's just a rough idle (if it's high, adjust it with the idle adjuster screw, if not don't worry about it as it's normal for our magnas Best of luck,

~twiggy~

isnt the alternator ALWAYS running.. it doesnt turn itself off, as its being driven off the crank - the regulator regulates (lol) the charge that goes to the battery but the alternator is always charging / 'on' cant be turned off...

i think maybe you are refering to the thermo fans on the radiator maybe? But i dont see how them coming on would affect the idle..
when they flick on, there will be a huge current drop / drawage on the charging system (noticed at night by your lights dimming momentarily)...

I think he's got a couple of things crossed there. Doddski would be right, the thermo fans come on frequently and in turn puts additional strain on the alternator, which lowers the idle speed.

Not so much a mechanical issue but an electrical one- i've had erratic idle speeds and random stalling just from a dying battery, so it's not as crazy as it sounds.

This might sound daft, but you're not coming to a stop in drive, and putting your handbrake on rather than keeping your foot on the brake are you?
every now and then I do, but not commonly, and this doesn't affect the problem
it's only when i need to reach into the back to grab CD's or whatever or re-adjust anything

Well, I wouldn't do that anyway - don't think it's good for the transmission. If you wanna put the handbrake on, I'd select either park or neutral.

Well, I wouldn't do that anyway - don't think it's good for the transmission. If you wanna put the handbrake on, I'd select either park or neutral.
ohh i get ya
yeah generally when I do it i put it in neutral, cos I generally do if i'm at a red light for a bit anyway cos of the violent idle

I had a similar problem, I have a TR 2.6 auto. My wagon shuttered violently when stopped at the lights. I took it to two different mechanics, the first couldn't find anything because he was useless, all he did was a minor tune-up which didn't fix anything. The second however, originally thought it could be carbon build up in the carby or the carby itself may need a rebuild. After flushing the carby he found that - that wasn't the problem and that the manifold gasket was screwed and the car was sucking an excessively large amount of air, which made it feel as though I was driving a tractor when sitting at the lights. After having that replaced and the timing done (which could explain the rattling you're hearing), the idle has never been smoother.

I had a similar problem, I have a TR 2.6 auto. My wagon shuttered violently when stopped at the lights. I took it to two different mechanics, the first couldn't find anything because he was useless, all he did was a minor tune-up which didn't fix anything. The second however, originally thought it could be carbon build up in the carby or the carby itself may need a rebuild. After flushing the carby he found that - that wasn't the problem and that the manifold gasket was screwed and the car was sucking an excessively large amount of air, which made it feel as though I was driving a tractor when sitting at the lights. After having that replaced and the timing done (which could explain the rattling you're hearing), the idle has never been smoother.
thanks man
that sounds exactly right, how much was it to get done?
does it make a difference when driving generally as well?

I will be adjusting my timing a bit later on in regards to Fast idle screw. Aparently, IF this is too far open, you will get rough idle and strong vibrations through the steering column (and rest of car of course). I'll try it out and let you know

EFI model btw.

thanks man
that sounds exactly right, how much was it to get done?
does it make a difference when driving generally as well?

I can't remember exactly, but it was approx. $200 for parts and labour. I had a major service, struts replaced and new tyres fitted all on the same day so I'm not absolutely sure about the cost for labour on the gasket alone.

I can't remember exactly, but it was approx. $200 for parts and labour. I had a major service, struts replaced and new tyres fitted all on the same day so I'm not absolutely sure about the cost for labour on the gasket alone.
ok no worries
cheers anyway mate ;)