This is one for all you greenies.


Besides the weight and space being moved, is there any more advantages to moving the battery to the boot? Or do the negatives (like adding additional wiring, securing the battery and the voltage drop in the wiring) out weight the two positives?



Cheers,
Chris

People think the hydrogen that can be produced could be a hazard, should be fine.

makes it a lot easier to run dual batteries if you ever want to.

depending on the type of battery you use it can be a pain. if you use the standard wet cell battery then they have to be mounted in their own box with a vent to atmosphere (in SA at least). when i did this in my old car i upgraded to a deep cycle gell battery which didnt need a box or any of that nonsence and could be mounted on its side.

however, i would only really think of doing this if you are pressed for room under the hood or you want the bat near to the amps for your stereo...other than that there is no realy need for it imo.

My mates VE SSV has it in the boot (between the side panel and the inner cover. Might
pay to have a look at the holden's specs for details as to the type of battery they use.

Hmmm. It's one of those things that's nice to have but not worth all the expense and hassle of doing.

When I was in the BMW Club years ago I noticed that all the E34 M5's had the battery in the boot and that BMW had even got so obsessive about removing and rebalancing weight that they removed the spare tyre altogether and fitted a can of goo. However....my Dad now owns an M5 and has driven it back-to-back with a std V8 series and says from a real world handling perspective he can't pick the diff in handling (not grip - that's another issue altogether) depsite all the jiggory pokery in the boot.

And then there's the cost of boxing in the battery to pass regs re venting and security of the batt in a crash. I got costings to do this and figured the several hundred bucks I was looking at was better invested in a Whiteline camber kit. At least as big a handling gain for the bucks and so much less hassle...

My mates VE SSV has it in the boot (between the side panel and the inner cover. Might
pay to have a look at the holden's specs for details as to the type of battery they use.

all VE's have them in the boot.
its there in part to stop people from jump starting other cars / getting jump started i heard.

im pretty sure its standard across all of australia that if you have a battery in the boot, (if wet cell) it must be vented to the atmosphere from its own box and must be securly tied down.


i think if you went and looked at what guage wire holden uses in thier VE's with the batt in the boot, and just brought the same then you should be right - if its good enough for holden in a mass produced car then its gotta be good for a mod.
instead of just moving the batt, i would also suggest with going dual batteries...

all VE's have them in the boot.
its there in part to stop people from jump starting other cars / getting jump started i heard.


Don't think so. I'm pretty sure the old man's VE manual mentioned something about having the terminals in the engine bay anyway in case you needed to jump start someone.

Don't think so. I'm pretty sure the old man's VE manual mentioned something about having the terminals in the engine bay anyway in case you needed to jump start someone.

Correct, there are battery terminals in the engine bay.

0 and 2 gauge wire is between 17 and 12 bucks per meter.

Ive already laid out the wiring in my Rada just havent got around to putting the battery in the boot.

No matter what battery you have, it must be very well seccured, and liek said, if its a traditional lead/acid, it needs to have a vent to atmosphere and be boxed up. Gellcell/ drycell do not require boxing and venting.

Voltage drop is not a problem if you use thickish wire (2gauge min) and while your getting a gellcell, get one rated with a higher CCA (most will be higher then the factory jobbie anyways). There any issues you have are eleviated.

Another point, the wiring (in QLD must not pass through the cabin of the car, so only under the body and must be secured at least every 30cms along its length, and shielded as required (no sheilding needed if run up along the floor next to a chasis rail)

Other then that, get good quality terminals and solder where neccessary (no twitching)

THREAD MINE!!!!!!!11111111111


Instead of starting a new thread, I'm going to ask my question here...

I've got my battery, all wires run, connected to the starter etc etc etc but how the hell do you go about securing it? My new battery is a Century Din85L and is somewhat more longer than my stocko battery so there goes the idea of using the stocko mount. I was thinking getting some of the battery mounts from SCA, drill them into the boot floor with some washers in so it doesnt tear the wood and that should be right...beyond that im stumped. Hallinans didnt really have an option either so any ideas/opinions????

THREAD MINE!!!!!!!11111111111


Instead of starting a new thread, I'm going to ask my question here...

I've got my battery, all wires run, connected to the starter etc etc etc but how the hell do you go about securing it? My new battery is a Century Din85L and is somewhat more longer than my stocko battery so there goes the idea of using the stocko mount. I was thinking getting some of the battery mounts from SCA, drill them into the boot floor with some washers in so it doesnt tear the wood and that should be right...beyond that im stumped. Hallinans didnt really have an option either so any ideas/opinions????

Could try what I was planning, create a custom MDF boot floor and build a battery box in to the floor.

Using standard mounts, custom mounts, or an MDF baffle is not only dangerous, but illegal if you dont have a ventilated sealed box.

As per previous posts, your battery needs to be ventilated to the outside.

Moroso Sealed battery box - secures to your floor with bolts and lock nuts. Used a few of these, about 30minutes - 1hour installed.

http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/descriptions.php?partno=MO74050

doesnt need venting :) as it doesnt emit hydrogen. ive asked about 3 different suppliers and they said this type of battery doesnt need it. i have however moved the hose that comes with it to run down where my air bag hoses go through so theres even more precaution :) its just a matter of holding it down :)

Is it a dry cell battery?

I looked at the specs and it says there's a water indicator - i could be wrong but if it uses water, means it vents gasses?

Strange, says its maintenance free.

Eitherway, I'de use a decent battery box - used that Moroso in a few rotaries, once its secure, the battery aint going anyway.

Using standard mounts, custom mounts, or an MDF baffle is not only dangerous, but illegal if you dont have a ventilated sealed box.

As per previous posts, your battery needs to be ventilated to the outside.

Moroso Sealed battery box - secures to your floor with bolts and lock nuts. Used a few of these, about 30minutes - 1hour installed.

http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/descriptions.php?partno=MO74050

In my original design I had it vented and within a plastic battery box, so the MDF secures the plastic battery box... The whole floor was about 100mm thick as it was to incorporate a carpc and ventalation system driven by 80mm fans.... I have the tools to make it up, but no way of getting MDF to my garage :(

Is it a dry cell battery?

I looked at the specs and it says there's a water indicator - i could be wrong but if it uses water, means it vents gasses?

Strange, says its maintenance free.

Eitherway, I'de use a decent battery box - used that Moroso in a few rotaries, once its secure, the battery aint going anyway.



he said it was dry cell. either way ill probably go in there on my day off and try and get a box for it and incorporate it into my new boot install. i have holes cut into the chassis so the hoses for my bags can meet the tank so theres no drama about finding a hole to vent it. id prefer to vent it even if it didnt need it just to be safe.

EDIT: that box looks rather slim. do any other boxes come longer? the new battery is about the same height and width as the stocko battery but the length is almost double lol

The only battery boxes that are approved for use in a car cabin area (even a boot) are those moroso battery boxes, as they are 100% sealed.

Marine battery boxes are not ADR compliant for cars.

The moroso battery boxes arnt cheap, but I'de prefer that than breathing in battery fumes :)

he said it was dry cell. either way ill probably go in there on my day off and try and get a box for it and incorporate it into my new boot install. i have holes cut into the chassis so the hoses for my bags can meet the tank so theres no drama about finding a hole to vent it. id prefer to vent it even if it didnt need it just to be safe.

Just read up about the Din85L battery you want to use.

Its a maintenance free battery, meaning you shouldnt need to vent it, or to top it up with water.

However, in high temperatures (say in a boot that can reach 60degree's in summer) the water will evaporate from the battery, including nasty gasses.

So venting it is a decent idea for summer :)

EDIT: Moroso make quite a few sizes, check out rocket industries website.

In the Rotairs I used to use a battery box, made a frame inside the box from angle which was bolted through the box to the boot floor. This was then also held under the floor with some big washers to stop the bolts pulling through the floor in an accident.

I used to use main free batteries thus no need to vent externally.

Generally would run the main cable to the starter, then pick up from there for the cars power.

never had an issue with this and also used to do many street cars to make room for big turbos and remove them from the extreme heat of the bay

Just read up about the Din85L battery you want to use.

Its a maintenance free battery, meaning you shouldnt need to vent it, or to top it up with water.

However, in high temperatures (say in a boot that can reach 60degree's in summer) the water will evaporate from the battery, including nasty gasses.

So venting it is a decent idea for summer :)

EDIT: Moroso make quite a few sizes, check out rocket industries website.
an DIN85L battery (correct me if i am wrong, sold these for years at SCA) is a euro type car battery. still uses water as it still has the caps on the top. just has sunken terminals.
so yes, i'd be using a battery box.
again correct me if i am wrong here but ive sold many a DIN85L euro car battery in the last few years lol
Life - Thats a nice story there

']Life - Thats a nice story there

I went and spent $120 on a drill, drillbit set, and jigsaw... then realised I have no way of getting MDF to my place! :(

Autospeed.com have good info on this subject.

Just read up about the Din85L battery you want to use.

Its a maintenance free battery, meaning you shouldnt need to vent it, or to top it up with water.

However, in high temperatures (say in a boot that can reach 60degree's in summer) the water will evaporate from the battery, including nasty gasses.

So venting it is a decent idea for summer :)

EDIT: Moroso make quite a few sizes, check out rocket industries website.


just had a look, the biggest they have is 330mm in length, just measured my battery and its just over by a few mm!!!! not happy. anyone know if you can get bigger boxes? it may not be needed to vent it etc, but id prefer to do it to be safe and also as a mounting option.

Try these,

Not sure on exact sizes, but email VPW and im sure they'll let you know

http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp?CatID=0&SubCatID=0&priorCatID=0&PrdGrpID=3322

ill let you in on little secret. There is a reason odessey dry cells are 200+ and thats because they are completely sealed batteries. Maintenance free means, while they are under warrenty they are designed to be set and forget, but guess what? they arent maintenance free, they require topping up and still have vent ports if you want them to last longer then the makers warrenty has to offer a replacement.

If you are that much of a stickler for legal, then you can go past pulse/odessey dry/gell cells. Completely sealed, truely maintenance free. If you dont wanna spend the coin, as i dont, any other battery will do just make sure you box it up. And as for mounting, use some 2mm steel plate sections under neath the floor of the car (one step up from big washers) and then clamp the battery down to that, its stops flex and the worry of having a 20kg piece of lead and acid striking you or your passengers in the kidneys during a crash.

I got a dry cell and used a inclosed battery box to secure battery. They screw down from the bottom.. Easy fixed.

Gives you more room and looks so much better under the hood..:)