Went for a drive before... parked the car, came back 15mins later, and it wouldn't start. I turned the key, and it turned on fine. Tacho shot up to 1300-1500rpm in the first second (like always), stereo and dash lights came on etc, and then it died: tacho just plummetted straight down to 0 and the car switched off. Tried it again, same thing. Turned the headunit off and tried again, and it worked - although I have the feel that it was only a coincidence. Car started fine (with headunit on) when I first left the house.

Car has spent the last week at the panel beaters, but it was only getting the fuel cap/quarter panel and the front bumper resprayed, so they wouldn't have had a fiddle too much in the engine bay. Battery hasn't been disconnected, as the headunit settings are unchanged, and otherwise it's idling/changing gears fine.

I'm going to try it again in the morning, but does anyone have any idea what might be causing it? I've never had a problem with the car before, but if there's something wrong I need to get it fixed ASAP, since I'm driving to Brisbane on Tuesday, plus I'm heading back to the panel beaters tomorrow since they forgot to reconnect my fog lights :doubt:

Common problem with third gens releated to the immboliser. Do a search :)

Battery?

Battery?

Not battery.

Car started.

100% is the issue I said above.

100% is the issue I said above.
Immobiliser shouldn't kill it when its running, it'd only stop it from starting. Once its running there shouldn't be an issue.

Immobiliser shouldn't kill it when its running, it'd only stop it from starting. Once its running there shouldn't be an issue.

It is either a dodgy connection from the BEM to the ECU or a battery that is on its way out, causing the BEM to tell the immobiliser to cut the engine. Mine does this also, if you flick your key to "on" for 1 second before flicking it all the way then it starts no problem.

It is either a dodgy connection from the BEM to the ECU or a battery that is on its way out, causing the BEM to tell the immobiliser to cut the engine. Mine does this also, if you flick your key to "on" for 1 second before flicking it all the way then it starts no problem.

Yeah, I've seen 3+ threads with the same issue, all times it was the battery.

Try this site for a fix

http://martybugs.net/articles/magna-stall.cgi

Same thing happened to me and it was the battery, though could be the immobiliser as well.
The battery might not be on it's way out, could just be that the panel beaters have left doors open all day and this has slowly but surely drained the battery. Maybe try fully charging the battery up and seeing if you still have the issue?
Or wait until the issue happens again and then swap over the battery with one you know that works.

+1 for its the battery.

Had the exact same problem with my KJ Verada intermitantly stalling on start. I tried that BEM fix and it did nothing.

Replaced the battery and all problems went away.
Its probably an old battery not going too well with the cold winter months.

Tacho shot up to 1300-1500rpm in the first second (like always), stereo and dash lights came on etc, and then it died: tacho just plummetted straight down to 0 and the car switched off. Tried it again, same thing.

Still to me seems very very similar to the Imob fault.

http://martybugs.net/articles/magna-stall.cgi

The best sign if it happens again, and totally fails to start, is weather or not the car cranks. If the car refuses to start, but still cranks, then its the Imob. If the car dosnt crank at all, then start looking at the battery.

Tried to start the car twice this morning.... started perfectly both times :confused:

Hope it's not the battery either, it's a good quality Century unit which is only a year and a half old. If it keeps up doing this, I'll keep the battery and the immobiliser in mind. Thanks guys!

You could always take the battery to an Auto Elec and they can test to see it is packing it in under load. Takes about 5 minutes. Simple easy and would cut out one of the variables. My auto elec and mitsu dealer said that the magna needs and good battery and it would probably only last 3 years. If you car has been sitting for a week not doing anything the batter could have just dropped out. Just a though.

im with the immobiliser thing. Mine did exactly the same thing, starts, and then fuel pump cuts out and kills engine. Turned out to be the loose wiring for the immobiliser underneath the steering column

+1 for battery,

Had the exact same issue, the voltage is dropping too much under load, and immob was cutting the motor out, fresh new battery and all fixed.

im also +1 ing for battery here

my car was doing the EXACT same thing all week - except every time i tried to start it, and on and off last week.

i replaced the battery in my car today (actually just now finished doing it) and i went to flick the key over and it started instantly and cleanly and didnt make mention of even hesitating to stall.

get the battery tested at least.

if you brought the battery new, you should have a 2year warrenty on it - if your lucky might be able to get a replacement out of the place that sold it to you?

this is a common issue with 3rd gens.. and is NOT THE BATTERY!!! It is the imob.. the chip in our key's becomes worn out..

what I would recommend is using your spare key for a bit. ;)

I have had 2 3rd gen's and they have both done this. and both had an optima yellow top battery which ran my stereo for hours so it is definitely not the battery.

this is a common issue with 3rd gens.. and is NOT THE BATTERY!!! It is the imob.. the chip in our key's becomes worn out..

what I would recommend is using your spare key for a bit. ;)

I have had 2 3rd gen's and they have both done this. and both had an optima yellow top battery which ran my stereo for hours so it is definitely not the battery.

sorry, but in this instance, im going to disagree.....
reason being, before i changed my battery today (technically yesturday) i tried to start it, and it did the stall thing. straight after changing the battery i went to start it and it started and didnt stall...
using the same key as well - i haddnt even taken the key out of the ignition while i did the change over.

Might be 2 problems that present the same way, its the only reasoning i can think of with some people saying battery and others saying imob/key.

to OP - have you tried with the spare set of keys? did it make any difference to your problem? it may help in further narrowing down of your problem.

to OP - have you tried with the spare set of keys? did it make any difference to your problem? it may help in further narrowing down of your problem.

It hasnt' done it since the one time on Thursday night :nuts: Next time it happens, I'm going to try the spare set though (if I'm at home).

Either way, dad suggested going into Battery World and getting the battery tested on Monday.

IT dosnt make sense that the battery is to be causing these problems. The hardest thing a battery has to do is crank a car over. This is where it uses most of its CCA. Once the car is started, the battery needs to do very little work.

For those who say they have had the "EXACT" same problem, and fixed it by changing the battery, I have two things to say.
1: The problem isnt the exact same problem as above.
2: The battery didnt fix anything. The stalling, from imob fault is very random. It can be pure chance that the new battery fixed it.

My car went through a period of stalling, as above. I am running a Optima Yellow Top, so clearly, the battery was not the problem. Checked some wires under the steering wheel. Problem stoped for most part, however, every now and then it reapears.

IT dosnt make sense that the battery is to be causing these problems. The hardest thing a battery has to do is crank a car over. This is where it uses most of its CCA. Once the car is started, the battery needs to do very little work.

For those who say they have had the "EXACT" same problem, and fixed it by changing the battery, I have two things to say.
1: The problem isnt the exact same problem as above.
2: The battery didnt fix anything. The stalling, from imob fault is very random. It can be pure chance that the new battery fixed it.

My car went through a period of stalling, as above. I am running a Optima Yellow Top, so clearly, the battery was not the problem. Checked some wires under the steering wheel. Problem stoped for most part, however, every now and then it reapears.

It can make sense, cos it does happen. How many post have you read that the battery has fixed the problem...tonnes. It is not always the case and yes the BEM has loose wires some times, but just except that batteries are not always faultless in magnas.

sorry, but in this instance, im going to disagree.....
reason being, before i changed my battery today (technically yesturday) i tried to start it, and it did the stall thing. straight after changing the battery i went to start it and it started and didnt stall...
using the same key as well - i haddnt even taken the key out of the ignition while i did the change over.

Might be 2 problems that present the same way, its the only reasoning i can think of with some people saying battery and others saying imob/key.

to OP - have you tried with the spare set of keys? did it make any difference to your problem? it may help in further narrowing down of your problem.

the thing u did was left the key in the ignition for some time. I used to find that if I left the key in for some time it would always start... and this was a proven way to get it to start. leave the key in the ignition for approx 30sec..before turning it on... I can see how it can be the battery in some cases.. however I have had 2 tj's that have done this and neither time has it been the battery.

IT dosnt make sense that the battery is to be causing these problems. The hardest thing a battery has to do is crank a car over. This is where it uses most of its CCA. Once the car is started, the battery needs to do very little work.

For those who say they have had the "EXACT" same problem, and fixed it by changing the battery, I have two things to say.
1: The problem isnt the exact same problem as above.
2: The battery didnt fix anything. The stalling, from imob fault is very random. It can be pure chance that the new battery fixed it.

My car went through a period of stalling, as above. I am running a Optima Yellow Top, so clearly, the battery was not the problem. Checked some wires under the steering wheel. Problem stoped for most part, however, every now and then it reapears.

Sorry bud but how wrong you are!

Battery can cause EXACTLY the same issue. It may start but then it will cut again. The loaded voltage drops too far and the relay for the ECU and Fuel pump cuts out again and car stalls, Falcons also have this issue quite a lot.

Sorry bud but how wrong you are!

Battery can cause EXACTLY the same issue. It may start but then it will cut again. The loaded voltage drops too far and the relay for the ECU and Fuel pump cuts out again and car stalls, Falcons also have this issue quite a lot.

When my previous batterys died on the AU cranking just got slower. Have never experienced this issue. it's always given me weeks warning. Will have to see if it happens next time around, this batterys just about due lol.

VACC tech books have talked about this for years, as did my trainer when I was certified by Bosch for various fuel injection systems. The relay is there so if the engine stops, so does the fuel pump. This is becuase if you have an accident and the fuel line breaks, you will find yourself with 40l per minute of fuel all over the ground

Sorry bud but how wrong you are!

Battery can cause EXACTLY the same issue. It may start but then it will cut again. The loaded voltage drops too far and the relay for the ECU and Fuel pump cuts out again and car stalls, Falcons also have this issue quite a lot.
That's exactly what happened to me few weeks ago. Started the car, it would stall, and i could hear a relay click behind centre console. engine ran for a sec, then just died.

I noticed, that if i put the key in, turn to ACC, leave there for 3 sec, then start engine, it wouldn't do it. I am assuming that the battery got too drained starting the engine, and no longer had enough juice to keep the ECU & accessories going. Yes, i know the alternator provides juice, but between the engine starting and alternator providing enough juice, there is a short instance where there isn;t enough juice. (just guessing here)

Anyways, i changed battery, and had all sorts of issues disappear. Engine starts fine now. Engine actually kicks over so damn quick now. Remote now working again (i used to loose programming after a day or so), and engine doesn't cut out anymore. Also, lights dont dim anymore when i crank the stereo :D

So yeah, could be battery related. I had oddysey before, which had the problems. Now running a blue top.

That's exactly what happened to me few weeks ago. Started the car, it would stall, and i could hear a relay click behind centre console. engine ran for a sec, then just died.

I noticed, that if i put the key in, turn to ACC, leave there for 3 sec, then start engine, it wouldn't do it. I am assuming that the battery got too drained starting the engine, and no longer had enough juice to keep the ECU & accessories going. Yes, i know the alternator provides juice, but between the engine starting and alternator providing enough juice, there is a short instance where there isn;t enough juice. (just guessing here)

Anyways, i changed battery, and had all sorts of issues disappear. Engine starts fine now. Engine actually kicks over so damn quick now. Remote now working again (i used to loose programming after a day or so), and engine doesn't cut out anymore. Also, lights dont dim anymore when i crank the stereo :D

So yeah, could be battery related. I had oddysey before, which had the problems. Now running a blue top.


This is an example of an obvious fault in the battery, hence the clicking behind the console...

however looks like optima's are the way to go.. seein e put his oddysey in about the same time as i put my yellowtop optima in. and mine is still going strong.

Went to Battery World to get the battery tested. It's in 100% working condition :doubt: At least that narrows it down to the immobiliser. The car didn't start on me too just before, but it started perfect when I tried it again straight afterwards. Joy joy...

I'll jiggle with the wiring under the steering column later this afternoon, although it might take a bit to see if it works, since this is the first time the car's refused to start on around a dozen trips out between Thursday night and now.

I had this intermittent "failure to keep running" problem for a few weeks in my 2003 AWD Magna. After seeing this thread, I went to my local battery man for a discharge test. He quickly confirmed that, even at only half the starter discharge rate, the voltage was dropping to less than 9 volts. I can't complain too much - it was the original 2003 factory battery. Needless to say, I got a new one put in and, so far, no problems.

However, I also agree with those who said the problem can be related to BEM or ECU modules. Some years ago my 2001 TJ had to have a BEM module replaced under warranty after the car finally refused to start following a frustrating few weeks of "stall after first start" problems. When it stared to happen to the AWD, I immediately thought "here we go again", but decided to check out the battery first.

I really appreciate the good info shared on this forum!