ok ts doing my head in now:flame: !!! i have replaced battery and now its fine ie: starts fine and so on and so fourth... BUT now the idle is on about 450-500rpm and its auto but it has slalled 3 times.. only since the new battery...lights are dull on idle and bright when revs are picked up!!!

can anyone make any sugestions how to fix it :pray: ?

i dont know what problem u had originally, can u post a link?

i could be wrong, but im pretty sure if u d/c the battery, the ecu resets and ur idle speeds etc might play up for the first few minutes

try driving around for a little while and see how it is

probably best letting it sit and idle for about 10 minutes.

if you start driving it around it will stall (as the OP has stated).

ah fair enough, i assumed it stalled on idle

+1 to the car learning again how to run as said above

the lights being dim on idle - whats the alternator belt tension like?
whats the alternator itself like?

sounds like its not pumping out enough charge at idle to keep things nice and bright (and reliable)

+1 to what the other guys have said. Every time the battery's been disconnected in my car, it's idled really rough (sometimes stalling) and gearshifts flare significantly, particularly for the first day or three.

ok.. orig prob was flat battery.. got new battery and ever since this has been going on! i have done 110km (highway) today with lights off but still no change!:rant:

did you get a battery with a high enough cca?

did you get a battery with a high enough cca?
I DONT KNOW! Would that cause this prob?

batterys are rated for the CCA (cold cracking amps).. I dont reckon that would be an issue john as CCA is only for starting isnt it..? Its starting fine..

Like if it struggled to start then you would assume its the CCAs..? :)

Sounds like ECU has reset itself.. Take it for a good drive or leave it idling for a while..


Not a major issue..

ok.. orig prob was flat battery.. got new battery and ever since this has been going on! i have done 110km (highway) today with lights off but still no change!:rant:
I think some ECU's are just a bit dopey when resetting. I had this exact same problem with my TP after disconnecting battery while we were away for 3 weeks. Same stalling issue and idling issue. It took about two weeks and 450 k's before it gradually came good.

Relearning the ECU on my falcon and apparently (according to my mechanic) its the same on the Mitsu, Plug the battery in and switch your ignition to 'ON'. Leave it for 10 mins then come back and crank it over.

From what I have been told when the ECU is reset is goes spastic inside itself as it gets a feel for all the sensors and overcompensates for stuff, its better to let it settle down before you start it.

Thats what I've been told anyway, don't take it as gospel

switch your ignition to 'ON'. Leave it for 10 mins then come back and crank it over.


will try this.. i have nothing to loose

Relearning the ECU on my falcon and apparently (according to my mechanic) its the same on the Mitsu, Plug the battery in and switch your ignition to 'ON'. Leave it for 10 mins then come back and crank it over.

From what I have been told when the ECU is reset is goes spastic inside itself as it gets a feel for all the sensors and overcompensates for stuff, its better to let it settle down before you start it.

Thats what I've been told anyway, don't take it as gospel


This is actually true, an ECU is made to control certain components, disconnecting the battery upsets the ECU and makes everything out of place. Also the idle is far to low, you will need to adjust this and it wont stall.

Battery light come on at all? If not its your idle (to low, not enough time to re-think the normal speed)