As it says, any info from people with one about the change in handling compared to a standard swaybar.
Thanks in advance.

Cheers
Craig.

depending what ur using it for.

just makes the rear end soft - hard and is a 22mm bar standard is 18mm . When i put them on the cars i set it to medium.

I've got a 22mm adjustable bar, set on medium. With standard springs, the handling was quite a bit sharper; definetely a good investment, even on it's own. With other handling mods it'll feel a lot better.

A bigger rear swaybar isn't some kind of magical mod that will make your car handle like a sports car, but yes, in my experience it does make a tangible difference, and is a fantastic bang-for-buck mod.

Back when I fitted mine (set on hard), I noticed turn-in felt "sharper". That bit of initial understeer on turn-in was noticeably reduced, and the rear felt a bit "livelier".

Personally, If I was gonna upgrade the rear swaybar again with no other suspension mods, I'd probably look at a custom 24mm or even 26mm unit over the 22mm Whiteline. E.g Kmac do them. But that comes down to personal preference.

However, you cannot make a FWD handle great by just adding roll resistance with stiffer swaybars. You also need to reduce body "squat" under throttle application by running higher rate springs in the rear.

Needless to say, in a FWD car you don't want the front wheels lifting while trying to put down power.

IMO the essential bang-for-buck handling mods for our magnas are Whiteline (or similar) front and rear swaybars, Whiteline anti-lift/castor kit and some camber adustment via a bolt kit or strut tops (IMO -1.5deg is good for a street-only car).

These are cheap mods with very tangible benefits, and do not affect ride quality like going to coilovers or a stiffer spring/shock combo does.

I'm not 100% sure about the front strutbrace, but hey it's not much money and looks cool anyway, so why not. I know lots of members swear by it, but personally I didn't notice any tangible difference between having it on and off (that's not to say the difference wasn't there, maybe I just didn't notice it at the time).

A bigger rear swaybar isn't some kind of magical mod that will make your car handle like a sports car, but yes, in my experience it does make a tangible difference, and is a fantastic bang-for-buck mod.

Back when I fitted mine (set on hard), I noticed turn-in felt "sharper". That bit of initial understeer on turn-in was noticeably reduced, and the rear felt a bit "livelier".

Personally, If I was gonna upgrade the rear swaybar again with no other suspension mods, I'd probably look at a custom 24mm or even 26mm unit over the 22mm Whiteline. E.g Kmac do them. But that comes down to personal preference.

However, you cannot make a FWD handle great by just adding roll resistance with stiffer swaybars. You also need to reduce body "squat" under throttle application by running higher rate springs in the rear.

Needless to say, in a FWD car you don't want the front wheels lifting while trying to put down power.

IMO the essential bang-for-buck handling mods for our magnas are Whiteline (or similar) front and rear swaybars, Whiteline anti-lift/castor kit and some camber adustment via a bolt kit or strut tops (IMO -1.5deg is good for a street-only car).

These are cheap mods with very tangible benefits, and do not affect ride quality like going to coilovers or a stiffer spring/shock combo does.

I'm not 100% sure about the front strutbrace, but hey it's not much money and looks cool anyway, so why not. I know lots of members swear by it, but personally I didn't notice any tangible difference between having it on and off (that's not to say the difference wasn't there, maybe I just didn't notice it at the time).
Thanks, I have Pedders lowered Sports Rider springs & shocks all round with front strut brace.
Have the standard TJ Sports swaybars.
I am currently checking out Anti lift & camber kits as my tyres scrub the inside 2-3cm's bad on 19" & we all want traction.
Was just wondering whether to just go nolane bushes on the current rear sway or grt the adjustable.

Cheers
Craig.

Chisholm,
good write-up mate. :thumbsup:

Slightly off-topic...
Anyone know what the Ralliart sway bars are stock?
Would it be worth adding a Whiteline or Kmac to the wish list?

Further comments.
As you already have stiffer springs and a rear sway bar you will get the most benefit from changing the rear bar.

Before the AWD I had a manual KS Verada.

FIrst change was to add a rear bar, this made the biggest difference.
I then made the mistake of doing the front bar next.
Yes it reduces body roll a bit but as I did not have an adjustable rear bar I felt that this was overall a retrograde step.
But the outer edge tyre wear was solved as it would appear that the rear to front weight transfer when cornering was reduced.

With the AWD I have done front and rear bars, Rear being adjustable.
Front camber bolts set at around 1.25°. Yellow Konis and King lows. Currently have caster bushes in the garage but haven't fitted them yet.
This with good 17" tyres certainly handles well.
Turn in is now excellent and the previous outer edge tyre wear with the original GII tyres is solved.
However I feel that the bar size is not really aggressive enough, the standard awd bar is 14 mm on a TJ and the Whiteline bar is 18 mm.
I now consider that the correct bar size would be a 20 mm bar for the AWD.
As Chisholm suggests then the optimum bar size for a FWD car should be much thicker. Just go and look at the latest breed of good handling European FWD cars and see how thick the OEM bar sizes are now. As the Magna is a much bigger and heavier car you can then start to see that it would need a much heavier bar.
Also consider that the Magna generally has rather soft spring rates and soft damper rates as standard as the Mitsubishi engineers set up the car for comfort rather than sharp handling. Again see how they upped spring rates and bar thicknesses on the 380, especially on the VRX / GT versions.

Gerry

With the AWD I have done front and rear bars, Rear being adjustable.



Which bar made the most difference or would you say they both complimented each other quite well?

A bigger rear swaybar isn't some kind of magical mod that will make your car handle like a sports car, but yes, in my experience it does make a tangible difference, and is a fantastic bang-for-buck mod.

Back when I fitted mine (set on hard), I noticed turn-in felt "sharper". That bit of initial understeer on turn-in was noticeably reduced, and the rear felt a bit "livelier".

Personally, If I was gonna upgrade the rear swaybar again with no other suspension mods, I'd probably look at a custom 24mm or even 26mm unit over the 22mm Whiteline. E.g Kmac do them. But that comes down to personal preference.

However, you cannot make a FWD handle great by just adding roll resistance with stiffer swaybars. You also need to reduce body "squat" under throttle application by running higher rate springs in the rear.

Needless to say, in a FWD car you don't want the front wheels lifting while trying to put down power.

IMO the essential bang-for-buck handling mods for our magnas are Whiteline (or similar) front and rear swaybars, Whiteline anti-lift/castor kit and some camber adustment via a bolt kit or strut tops (IMO -1.5deg is good for a street-only car).

These are cheap mods with very tangible benefits, and do not affect ride quality like going to coilovers or a stiffer spring/shock combo does.

I'm not 100% sure about the front strutbrace, but hey it's not much money and looks cool anyway, so why not. I know lots of members swear by it, but personally I didn't notice any tangible difference between having it on and off (that's not to say the difference wasn't there, maybe I just didn't notice it at the time).

Althought I agreee somewhat, I would think second about upgrading the front sway bar over the stock unit. I would be interested to see some lap times with, and without an upgraded front sway bar.

Reason being is that our cars are FWD, and, in general, prefer a larger rear swaybar. Increasing the front sway bar has the opposite effect of what we want to achive, ie, it forces the car to understeer more.

The question seems to be, will the stiffing of the body cause a greater increase in handling, that is higher than the increase in understeer.

The next think i wonder about, are the antilift kits, and the camber bolts so to speak. For a little extra in cash, it is possible to get adjustable camber tops, which allow a greater change in camber, and caster for our cars.

How does the anti-lift kit work i'm looking at getting this if it's going to be beneficial

The next think i wonder about, are the antilift kits, and the camber bolts so to speak. For a little extra in cash, it is possible to get adjustable camber tops, which allow a greater change in camber, and caster for our cars.[QUOTE]

I looked at this,
The pins are $68 Whiteline $35 Ingalls.
The tops are $507 Noltec Kmac don't list them for Magna.

The next think i wonder about, are the antilift kits, and the camber bolts so to speak. For a little extra in cash, it is possible to get adjustable camber tops, which allow a greater change in camber, and caster for our cars.[QUOTE]

I looked at this,
The pins are $68 Whiteline $35 Ingalls.
The tops are $507 Noltec Kmac don't list them for Magna.

You can get them for Magnas. Phillcom (site sponser) can get them for around $500.

The pins are a little hard to install, and labour costs are probably a bit more, plus, you need to make sure the person knows what they are doing.

Camber tops can adjust camber out to about 6 or 8 degress, so, theres alot of movment, and adjustability. Similarly for caster.

[quote=The Magnaforce]The next think i wonder about, are the antilift kits, and the camber bolts so to speak. For a little extra in cash, it is possible to get adjustable camber tops, which allow a greater change in camber, and caster for our cars.

You can get them for Magnas. Phillcom (site sponser) can get them for around $500.

The pins are a little hard to install, and labour costs are probably a bit more, plus, you need to make sure the person knows what they are doing.

Camber tops can adjust camber out to about 6 or 8 degress, so, theres alot of movment, and adjustability. Similarly for caster.I have contacted Philcom several times with no reply.
The strut tops they have are probably the noltec ones which now these particular part of their business have been taken over by Wilkinsons in SA. They say there is nothing avaliable for a month or two until they sort out some changes they are making to the nolane part of these.
I will wait to see the outcome with these.
Anyone wanting to arrange a group buy down that way may be able to do a bulk price & they quoted me $400 at this stage for 1 pair.