Over the last couple of weeks my Rada has started to suffer from a weird problem. After the car is started it stalls straight away. It might take 3 to 4 attempts to get the car to start and stay running instead of stalling straight away.

I checked the battery and the negative cable was looser than a $2 hooker. Tightened everything up and the problem seemed to go away for a couple of days until it happened again last night.

The more i thought about it the more i realized that it only happens when the weather is cold. In a totally unrelated move i checked the battery fluid levels for some reason and found that the battery needs to be topped up (can see some of the cells have absolutely no water on the top of them). Will have to get some distilled water to top up the battery.

My question is will a 2 year old battery which is low on water cause the issue i'm having? If yes, why does it only happen when the weather is cold?

If topping up the battery does not fix the problem then maybe my Rada is facing this issue: Stalling TJ Magna (http://martybugs.net/articles/magna-stall.cgi). If not then i'm not sure what else it could be.

The simple answer is yes....you need to get your battery checked out.

http://mansfieldmotors.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=40&Itemid=49

Heaps of people have had that problem, replacing the battery is the solution. If you like I can get you a maintainance free Ariel 470cca battery for $110 through dads work, they're normally $150-160ish I believe. Come with a 2yr replacement warranty.

I've got the older 450cca model in my car which is fantastic, and just put one of the 470cca ones in Nemesis's car about 2 or 3 weeks ago and its fantastic as well.

depending who answeres here, some will say Immobiliser, and others will say battery

im going with the battery option here -
reason being, mine was doing the same thing (expect not stalling 3 or 4 times, would continue to run on the second time) and it was happening in the cooler weather..

'water' in the battery was low, topped it up to where it shoulda been, and the next few starts where fine, then it came back.

brought a new battery that or the next week, and i havnt had the problem since - starts cleanly and smoothly every time and doesnt even hint at stalling on me.

its time for a new battery - if you got 2years out of one, thats considered good isnt it?
i was told by a good mate that anything from 2 - 5 years is the norm for a car battery - 2years min, 5years you got a good one...

I'm thinking of getting a really good battery in my new car, one that can better handle powering the Car PC with the engine off. The one in my Verada never had a problem, but if I was using it for a while with the engine off I could always tell.

Heaps of people have had that problem, replacing the battery is the solution. If you like I can get you a maintainance free Ariel 470cca battery for $110 through dads work, they're normally $150-160ish I believe. Come with a 2yr replacement warranty.

I've got the older 450cca model in my car which is fantastic, and just put one of the 470cca ones in Nemesis's car about 2 or 3 weeks ago and its fantastic as well.
Can you get any with a CCA rating of 520 or greater?





'water' in the battery was low, topped it up to where it shoulda been, and the next few starts where fine, then it came back.

brought a new battery that or the next week, and i havnt had the problem since - starts cleanly and smoothly every time and doesnt even hint at stalling on me.

its time for a new battery - if you got 2years out of one, thats considered good isnt it?
i was told by a good mate that anything from 2 - 5 years is the norm for a car battery - 2years min, 5years you got a good one...
Yeh i just topped up the water and straight away it starts up much better but not sure how long this will last.

When i bought the car in July 2006 i changed the battery right away. So it looks like it has only lasted 2 years. Maybe the extra heat generated by the supercharger has also reduced the battery's lifespan.

Don't know about the two year thing. When I got my car, I changed the battery straight away. This was in Dec '05. It then sat for ages in the yard, battery went dead because of lack of use. then it was driven for a while...then it sat again...battery went dead after lack of use, then it was used again for a while, it sat, fluids were checked and were LOW, charged it back up and now I'm still using it. Mind you, my battery isnt the best brand either. I got it from Big W or K Mart. Last time I checked, fluids were okay, but not 100% full. I'd have though with the amount of charging it had to go through, it wouldnt have lasted as long as it did...but yeah...

Can you get any with a CCA rating of 520 or greater?
I'll have to ask, no doubt will cost more, but should still be plenty cheaper than most places. I'll get back to you aye :)



its time for a new battery - if you got 2years out of one, thats considered good isnt it?
I'd consider that pretty poor. The Ariel battery's usually get about 3.5-4years. The old one in the TR died after 18months (partly our fault for not checking the fluids :redface:) so we took it back to the shop, happily swapped it over with a new one at no charge, added 2 years warranty from the day we swapped it. Put it this way, a battery company wouldn't supply a 2yr warranty if they only expected it to last 2 years.

Can you get any with a CCA rating of 520 or greater?

Pretty sure the brand funnily named "Supercharge" have batterys with that capacity and should be around the $120 mark retail.
From the supercharge website
Mitsubushi Magna - TJ 3.5
SuperCharge Classic: NS50P
SuperCharge Gold: MF50
MF50 has 600CCA so it'll be the next battery i get for sure..
http://linux.supercharge.com.au/products_specs_gold.php

']

Pretty sure the brand funnily named "Supercharge" have batterys with that capacity and should be around the $120 mark retail.
From the supercharge website
Mitsubushi Magna - TJ 3.5
SuperCharge Classic: NS50P
SuperCharge Gold: MF50
MF50 has 600CCA so it'll be the next battery i get for sure..
http://linux.supercharge.com.au/products_specs_gold.php
Who sells Supercharge batteries?

Good question - Not too sure lol I think some service centres carry it but yeah not 100% mate.

I think ive seen a racq roadside assist with them

Check your batter and the brown wire from ECU to BEM (BEM end)

optima yellowtop ftw :)

']
SuperCharge Gold: MF50
MF50 has 600CCA so it'll be the next battery i get for sure..


Im running one of those in both my cars.. they have that little coloured window thing to tell you where the battery is at. they are 600cca from memory and Supercharge batterys are at Auto1 in NSW.. Dont know about other states.

RRP is $150 from memory.. about $110 trade..:)

Im running one of those in both my cars.. they have that little coloured window thing to tell you where the battery is at. they are 600cca from memory and Supercharge batterys are at Auto1 in NSW.. Dont know about other states.

RRP is $150 from memory.. about $110 trade..:)


i got the same battery last year, i paid about $115 for it from the local auto electricians, it's good

Thanks to Lugo for supplying the new battery. Seems to have solved the stalling problem :)
Went for a Supercharge Gold MF50 600 CCA sealed maintenance free battery.
Only $143 and comes with a 3 year warranty.
Lugo is now officially the AMC/// ///VIC battery supplier :P

http://linux.supercharge.com.au/images/batteries/goldsml.gif

there a good battery i have my stereo going for a couple of hours with the car off and the car started fine after woulds

Thanks to Lugo for supplying the new battery. Seems to have solved the stalling problem :)
Went for a Supercharge Gold MF50 600 CCA sealed maintenance free battery.
Only $143 and comes with a 3 year warranty.
Lugo is now officially the AMC/// ///VIC battery supplier :P

http://linux.supercharge.com.au/images/batteries/goldsml.gif
Battery matches your car :P

Over the last couple of weeks my Rada has started to suffer from a weird problem. After the car is started it stalls straight away. It might take 3 to 4 attempts to get the car to start and stay running instead of stalling straight away.

I checked the battery and the negative cable was looser than a $2 hooker. Tightened everything up and the problem seemed to go away for a couple of days until it happened again last night.

The more i thought about it the more i realized that it only happens when the weather is cold. In a totally unrelated move i checked the battery fluid levels for some reason and found that the battery needs to be topped up (can see some of the cells have absolutely no water on the top of them). Will have to get some distilled water to top up the battery.

My question is will a 2 year old battery which is low on water cause the issue i'm having? If yes, why does it only happen when the weather is cold?

If topping up the battery does not fix the problem then maybe my Rada is facing this issue: Stalling TJ Magna (http://martybugs.net/articles/magna-stall.cgi). If not then i'm not sure what else it could be.
Well, this problem has resurfaced again. Since this issue was originally reported by yours truly the battery has been changed for a big motha (600CCA).

I thought that was the fix as the problem went away after the battery was replaced. But it has now returned over the last couple of weeks. Only this time it's doing the exact same thing when it's hot. Here's 2 instances where it's happened:


Drove the car around on a hot day. Parked it out in the open sun. Came back to start it after 2 to 3 hours but engine stalled on the first go. Was able to keep it running on the third go.


Drove to the supermarket to do some shopping. Came back to start it after 30 mins but engine stalled on the first go. Was able to keep it running on the second go.

In both instances the ambient temperature was over 25 degrees, and the engine temperature much higher than that. I'm gonna check the BEM connector problem which has solved this issue for a few people but if that doesn't work then i'm all out of ideas.

Spark plugs clean? Distributor dry and clean?
All cylinders firing?
What's your idle RPM at cold start?
Correct Oil?

Spark plugs clean? Distributor dry and clean?
All cylinders firing?
What's your idle RPM at cold start?
Correct Oil?
Plugs are good (replaced 15K km ago)
Dizzy dry and clean
Cold start idle is usually around 1200 rpm
Oil changed 3K km ago (can only use 5W-40)

Once the car starts and stays on there are no issues with power, performance or operation of the engine.

I had a similar problem around April, changed the battery and haven't had any issues since... I'm using Bosch Gold though.

Defective battery?

Maybe get battery tested, i have seen a few crap themselves, after 2 days. maybe 1 dead cell in battery.

Battery is the first place to check.

Had exact same problem a couple of years ago.
Called dealership.
They booked me into their express service dept.
Drove in and out in 20 minutes.
Battery was changed, ISC checked. Technician explained and drove car around block.
Been perfect since.

I suspect that a lot more GenIII drivers will start to see this problem soon after the hot weather comes.
This kills battery cells.
Gerry

Battery was replaced with a new one 2 months ago as i was having this very same problem.

When this problem started about 3 months ago it was cold so blamed it on that. Changed the battery and all was good but now it's happening when it's hot.

I still think it may be the BEM connector problem which i'll check out further on the weekend.

Battery was replaced with a new one 2 months ago as i was having this very same problem.

When this problem started about 3 months ago it was cold so blamed it on that. Changed the battery and all was good but now it's happening when it's hot.

I still think it may be the BEM connector problem which i'll check out further on the weekend.
Unplug/replug of the BEM connector plug seems to have solved the stalling problem now :)

Whats the BEM connector?

Whats the BEM connector?
Check out this link (http://martybugs.net/articles/magna-stall.cgi).

I had this problem, take the igntion surround off,look for the ring around the key barrel that reads the magnetic code in ur key. Find the connctor that joins this unit to the rest of the wiring. Cut the connector out and join the wires directly...problem solved.

Even if its not ur problem its a free fix that takes 30 mins, worth trying before you go and spend 10jugs worth of your hard earned cash