I have a 2003 Magna VRX, just got it, went underneath to change the oil and its got a really flat 24mm nut, it wont move !! socket wrench just slips !! Is there a special tool i should be using ?? :(

ta

24mm is the correct sized tool, just make sure its a 'true' 24mm.

dont try to use an adjustable spanner, youl just round it off

try to jack the car up (use axle stands!) to be able to get some good leverage on it.
shouldnt be on THAT tight, sump bolts do have set torquing values (dont know it off the top of my head though)

EDIT - IIRC, the bolt is at an angle to the back of the sump as well, making things harder? Im not sure - last time my oil was changed - i didnt do it, conned someone else into crawling around under the car. i remember him saying it was on tight tho.

I have a 2003 Magna VRX, just got it, went underneath to change the oil and its got a really flat 24mm nut, it wont move !! socket wrench just slips !! Is there a special tool i should be using ?? :(

ta


I wouldnt use a socket to undo that bolt. Try using a close ringed six pointed spanner to do the job.

6 points are always better than 12 when it comes to a bad bolt/nut. What may be slipping using a 12point socket, may not with a 6pointed socket (happened on my lock nut for my wheels).

Once the bolt is off, go buy a new one.

Also, make sure you are using a quality spanner, cheaper spanners may not be excatly 24mm.

Interesting point, I measured my sump plug last time I changed my oil, and it measured in at 23.8 (using precision measuring equipment). I wonder if thats to do with Mitsubishis quality control, or, the plug being rounded off over time

I bought a socket from supercheap as my kit didnt have it, it cost me 7$ , looks quality, it has lots of edges inside.

Yeh bastards have made the bolt, flat and recessed .... :rant:

looks like i will have to take it to a mechanic to open it with an air tool !

I had the same problem with my TF. I ended up having to take the whole sump off and angle grinding a large gash in the bolt and chiselling it in the right direction to undo it. Was a bitch of a job but it worked.

I bought a socket from supercheap as my kit didnt have it, it cost me 7$ , looks quality, it has lots of edges inside.

Yeh bastards have made the bolt, flat and recessed .... :rant:

looks like i will have to take it to a mechanic to open it with an air tool !

The less edges inside the better.More edges means its easier to use in terms of a range of angles, but, is also much easier to round off a bolt.

I had the same problem with my TF. I ended up having to take the whole sump off and angle grinding a large gash in the bolt and chiselling it in the right direction to undo it. Was a bitch of a job but it worked.
Gotta be kidding me...

Just get under there, use a breaker bar with maybe a jack handle on the end for leverage and just try and crack it, once its cracked it'll come off like a charm..

']Gotta be kidding me...

Just get under there, use a breaker bar with maybe a jack handle on the end for leverage and just try and crack it, once its cracked it'll come off like a charm..

I'm with tufftr.. just use a breaker bar.. it'll crack

Amen boys,go have some wheat bixs and get out the breaker bar and go to town!,it should come out with very little pressure on the breaker bar,as you couldnt really do it up tight enough not to come out and not strip the thread in the process,if you have rounded the bolt ,get out the file and even out the flat sections prior to doing the above

Cheers
Steve

Try a 15/16 imperial socket. That fits better than the metric 24mm.

just drill a hole through the sump to drain it out, then just stickytape it up when your done

^^^lol sticky tape

I used a rattle gun and even then I recall it took a little while to come loose but then replaced it with a smaller and taller head bolt.

I bought a sidchrome open ended and ring spanner in one and the ring spanner end will undo these 24 mm bolts no probs, I've used it on the Pajero, The Magna and the Lancer

i'll give the ring spanner a go :doubt:

^^^lol sticky tape

I used a rattle gun and even then I recall it took a little while to come loose but then replaced it with a smaller and taller head bolt.

Hi,

Where can i get this replacement head bolt ?

thanks

You can get replacement bolts from auto parts suppliers
(Bursons SCA fagobarn etc)
looking like $3

Ring spanners are only good if the bolt is not over tight and in perfect condition

Take it from me, I have done thousands of these

A single hex socket on a breaker bar is the best thing to use, the single hex grip more the side of the head where as the double hex or 12 point will grip the corner of the head and is more likely to slip

i just linished offf my 24mm socket so the face is where the 12pt's are, as they normally chamfer down about 3mm..

it can be tiresome to use on other things as it's a bit hard to 'work' onto a bit of a rounded head.. but my older toyota stuff had the same deal.. i used 19, 22, 24 the same way..

Freeze and release can help. But I agree - single hex socket and breaker bar should cure what ails ya.

Don't mean to criticise but it's recessed and short so the profile of the sump means you don't tear the top off if you ground out on it... designed that way so you don't lose a sump full of oil if you hit a rock or a pot hole.

Just saying.

Hi,

Where can i get this replacement head bolt ?

thanks

I went to a AutoOne but yeah I'd say decent auto store would stock a replacement.

I went to a AutoOne but yeah I'd say decent auto store would stock a replacement.

Hi

But what do I ask for ? :) :bowrofl:

An oil sump plug.lol I just checked my car and it's 16mm.

hmmm so all oil 16mm oil sump plug would work ?? is 16 mm the part that screws in or
the part where the socket wrench goes ?

cheers:cry:

16mm is the bolt head size that the spanner/socket fits onto.

what about the other end that fits onto sump, does that have a specific size or they are all the same ?

I had the same problem with my TF. I ended up having to take the whole sump off and angle grinding a large gash in the bolt and chiselling it in the right direction to undo it. Was a bitch of a job but it worked.


I bet it was fun maneuvering that pan full of oil out lol

Ummm, the size of the threaded end of the bolt will be a specific diameter/thread pitch etc.... Its likely if you tell a parts store that you want a sump drain bolt to suit Mitsi, they may be able to translate that. There is also the Mitsi Spares counter, but they may only keep the flat headed version.

Kudos to quidgibo (did I spell right?) - I'd never thought about the "snagging" characteristics of sump drain plugs, but you may be onto something there.

Flea_bay is riddled with Magnetic Sump Plugs too, isn't it? If you expect to be grinding metal in your machine, maybe that'd be an idea (tho its likely that Mitsi have magnets in the oil pan to attract metallic particles, its a common idea).

While there probably isn't a canon of International Law that states every vehicle from all over the world must have the same size sump drain plug - its also likely that in Metric countries only a handful of options cover the huge majority of vehicles.

You can also (crossing my threads here...) use the stellar Telstra directory assistance to ring a parts store and see if they need you to bring your bolt as a sample, or if they think they can match it !!

Just go to a auto store and ask for a sump plug for a what ever model Magna you have, they will look it up in their little reference book or on the computer and give you the right plug. The thread size must be the same otherwise it will not screw in. The only difference is the head bolt size, the smaller 16mm being easier to get a spanner on it and untighten. Also, the way that the sump is shaped I doubt anything would catch on a taller headed bolt particulary given that it faces towards the rear of the car. But you never know I guess.