My steering rack has been leaking like a sieve for a while, now im guessing its just a O ring but i remember reading somewhere (couldnt find it again) that the ralliart steering rack was different and more firmer/stiffer with its steering? im not sure if that disucssion was concluded with the firmness coming from the wheels/suspension setup, but its due for a service i was thinknig of, if above is true getting a ralliart steering rack in there? has anyone done this? i have a TF

cheers!

i read somewhere that the tl/tw uses the ralliart power steering rack as well

hhrrmmmm, i can remeber driving a TL but cant remember the difference in steering. ill suss out how much they cost today.

AFAIK the difference is in the PS pump - I believe the ralliart pump has less assistance off-centre to try to remove that light over-assisted feel.

I highly recomend the whiteline anti-lift/castor kit. It does wonders for the steering feel of our cars, giving it a heavier "meatier" weight to the steering, making it feel much less like an over-assisted barge.

Couldn't agree more- about fitting the Whiteline Castor Kit.

For the AWD, I got the standard, i.e. non anti-lift kit late last year.
After procrastinating since Xmas, I made up a set of push out/ push in adaptors and got my friendly mechanic to do it 2 weeks ago.

HUGE difference to the steering, the straight ahead nervousness is gone, especially on the awful, unrepaired roads in Sydney, like sections of Victoria road just before Ryde!!

Looking at the front tyres, they are now wearing absolutely evenly after the full set of suspension mods.

Gerry

I highly recomend the whiteline anti-lift/castor kit

How much for the kit and how much for installation?

Kit price will be on the Whiteline web site.

KCA 372 is $176 odd, however limited stock as it has been discontinued.

Anti - lift + Castor adjustment is KCA 372X. $243.55. Same again - limited stock.

I paid around $200 for fitting and a full, precise alignment.

Both the bottom control arms have to be removed, Excess rubber on the existing bushes trimmed off, push the old bushes out and then press the new ones in as well as re-assembly and wheel alignment.

It is a diy job if you have access to a good ball joint pin removal tool and a press to to get the bushes in and out.

Gerry

AFAIK the difference is in the PS pump - I believe the ralliart pump has less assistance off-centre to try to remove that light over-assisted feel.


Yep thats right. I believe that the TL/W picked up the pump as well.

The steering in my TL is considerably heavier than it was in my KH, soooooo much nicer to drive.

So does this mean that if I replace the pump in my TF with one from a TL then the steering will be heavier? That sounds good :D

So does this mean that if I replace the pump in my TF with one from a TL then the steering will be heavier? That sounds good :D
Yes. :D

How much and how hard to do?

im getting a KCA-538x which is the Castor adjustment and Antilift kit, they are around 260 off there website from memory, also there is a difference between models and which kit it uses ALL executive's use the KCA-538 which is the 22m pin, and all other models use the KCA-372X which is the 18mm pin and nut unit. If you considering this mod PLEASE check it first, a detailed diagram on where it is located is in the mitsi manual that you can download off the website.

P.S. Also if your having weirdness in the steering aka pulling to the left like mine is and no amounts of wheel alignments can fix it, chances are the castor is out, mine is out 0.27+ atm due to a massive pothole.

So does this mean that if I replace the pump in my TF with one from a TL then the steering will be heavier? That sounds good :D

an easier option is to just remove the power steering pump and then it will be heavy as anything! and wouldnt cost u too much either!

however back on topic... ralliart steering is better than exec steering however I would still think it was a bit better than the tl/tw steering, however I'm comparing a TL on 16's to a ralliart on 20's so they might actually be the same...

How much and how hard to do?

yeah thats the question we want answered.

how does this Anti - lift + Castor adjustment work? would it matter if i have coilovers in the front?

pick up a TL/TW power steering pump from a wrecker (or new if you want), and have it installed. shouldn't be more than a couple of hundred in labour plus price of the pump.

I might try to source one for my build.

.wook

pick up a TL/TW power steering pump from a wrecker (or new if you want), and have it installed. shouldn't be more than a couple of hundred in labour plus price of the pump.

I might try to source one for my build.

.wook

I was quoted about $400 for a reconditioned pump and installation, not sure how much of that was labour though.

How hard would this be to do myself?

I was quoted about $400 for a reconditioned pump and installation, not sure how much of that was labour though.

How hard would this be to do myself?

probably not too hard if you had the right tools... that's a big if though.

here's the pic from the service manual:

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/2267/powersteeringpumpremovayd7.jpg

cheers!

probably not too hard if you had the right tools... that's a big if though.

here's the pic from the service manual:

[IMGhttp://img214.imageshack.us/img214/2267/powersteeringpumpremovayd7.jpg[/IMG]

cheers!

People tell me Im a big tool.......... Is that the same thing?

Thanks though much appreciated, I might actually attempt this once I pay for my new pump and it arrives :D

how does this Anti - lift + Castor adjustment work? would it matter if i have coilovers in the front?

The kit gives you a bit of castor (+1 deg from memory) by using offset bushes (these bushes are poly and help remove a bit of excesss compliance also).

The anti-lift part of it is relocating the lower suspension arm pickups. I believe what this does is improve the front roll centre, which makes the front end feel a bit more "nimble", and helps give a bit more front-end grip.

I definantely recomend this, or at the the very least the offset castor bushes are great for giving the steering more feel and weight.

just got off the phone with the local Mitsu dealer about these power steering pumps.

TJ Ralliart steering pump $1526 (part # MR272497)
TJ standard steering pump $871 (part # MR197688)

can someone with a TL or TW call and get a price and part number for their cars... anything with Ralliart in front of it seems to attract a 100% premium, and apparently they're the same part.

cheers,
.wook

The number on the spare TL pump I have is AW346490.

I got my Anitlift kit on sat, btw the cost price on the kits has dropped by 30% and are around 200 bucks now, Basically the kit is 2 poly bushes with the inner crush tubes offset, and also comes with fresh high tensile bolts for the mount and washers to adjust the castor of the car, ill be getting quotes on fitment tomorrow, if you want pics i can get them but means a walk outside :rant:

haha well i just spent sunday fitting coilovers and now i have to take em all out again! kept making a knock noise each side everytime i went over a bump? the shock bolt ontop of the strut top pushed up when i dropped the car but its still done up tight, might need some xtra washers.

so maybe i should get a anti-lift kit while im at it.
sounds like it should be relatively easy to set-up? does it have DIY?

haha well i just spent sunday fitting coilovers and now i have to take em all out again! kept making a knock noise each side everytime i went over a bump? the shock bolt ontop of the strut top pushed up when i dropped the car but its still done up tight, might need some xtra washers.

so maybe i should get a anti-lift kit while im at it.
sounds like it should be relatively easy to set-up? does it have DIY?

If you have a press to push the old bushes out and the fresh ones in its DIY, got to remove the lower control arms though :doubt: i was going to do mine but since mine is mainly to correct a castor issue im having with the car atm ill just pay someone to do it shouldnt be any more then 200 anyways with a wheel alignment

Modifying Power steering – 3rd Gen


TJ2 3.5L tiptronic

Following on from hedgie’s thread

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=909977&postcount=1

I noticed recently that the cap to the PS fluid reservoir was weeping a film of oil – checked the steering rack – looked ok

I normally reverse out of my driveway, using both locks, and have always found it annoying when the idle - up came in with higher - than - necessary revs

Steering on the Magna has always been vague, as though power assistance operated around a too-narrow centre band

After checking the manual, I first disconnected the wire from the PS pump
(item 4) on WOOKIEE’s post

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=910622&postcount=18

Now the idle remains firm on 650rpm, the steering has a whole new feel to it, the car has a 'lighter feel' as though you pushed a large passenger out of the door at the last corner :D and the fuel consumption has improved by 0.5 Litres/100Km

Anybody wanting to try this themselves – warning – that you will need to have your ride running well, with a good, stable idle

This issue reverts to improving the rough idle experienced by many AMC’ers mentioned in other threads, and at the very least you will need to have the heads correctly earthed

As a suggestion you can insert a simple enable/disable switch in the wire and try it on the open road for effectiveness – great for cruising :cool:

Cheers, Barry

I love when people discover / workout these types of mods :D If I only I had a 3rd gen lol

Ollie