Not sure if this is the best place to put this in, but i was just wondering if its possible to do a decent DIY clear coat using off the shelf spray cans ?

Can you get off the shelf clear coat that can handle different weather conditions and bonnet heat ?

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/1201/13542611fg5.jpg

That pic was taken a while ago and it has gotten a lot worse since then. If the bonnet turns out good, i might think about doing the roof too :)

they are looking at your parking skills....

on a serious note the paint has to be completely redone. just clearing it wont help.
I got the same thing on my roof was quoted 861 to fix.

yeah probably better of jst going to the wreckers and finding a bonnet in the same colour and getting that...

yeah probably better of jst going to the wreckers and finding a bonnet in the same colour and getting that...

I might have a look. If i find one i might paint this one for the hell of it just to see how it turns out.

The reason the clear is peeling is because of the oxidising paint. It requires a new colour aswell as top coat unfortunatly.

You might be able to get away with a fine sanding, then touch up can of colour, really fine sand, then coat of clear.

EDIT: hit the post button twice

get a spray gun for 50 bucks and a tin of paint and colour for around 120, and you will have a pro job.... well kinda

Remove the bonnet, then sand and respray. The pigment layer is giving up, so recoating in just clear is similar to spray painting dry sand on a beach, looks fine but there's nothing really holding it all together. Just like tiny particles of sand moving, the paint will continue to turn to dust and take sections of cleacoat with it. UV + paint = respray, esp with Red and red-based colours.

Not to sound like a prat but given the value of the car, whats the worst that could *really* happen? There's a lot of info on the net re spraying and finishing. You should be able to get a solid result. I'm going to have a go at my bootlid soon :redface:

Remove the bonnet, then sand and respray. The pigment layer is giving up, so recoating in just clear is similar to spray painting dry sand on a beach, looks fine but there's nothing really holding it all together. Just like tiny particles of sand moving, the paint will continue to turn to dust and take sections of cleacoat with it. UV + paint = respray, esp with Red and red-based colours.

Not to sound like a pray but given the value of the car, whats the worst that could *really* happen? There's a lot of info on the net re spraying and finishing. You should be able to get a solid result. I'm going to have a go at my bootlid soon :redface:

Yeah im not gonna bother with it ey. I have a crack on my windscreen that is getting worse everyday. In a couple of months the crack is gonna complete its gurney (sp?) to the other side.

So i have paint, rust, wholes and now the window. Ill just drive it untill I get pulled over and get a defects sticker on it. I was thinking of getting a new window installed but I have a massive rust hole where the window sits so it cant be sealed anyways.

Oh well.

remove bonnet sand the clear off with 800grit wet and dry paper. try to use a long board and not your hands , so it dosen't come out wavy. once it's all removed go over it a few times to be sure but try not to eat into the paint too much. then clean with grease and wax remover. you need 2 clothes for this, one to soak in it and wipe the panel wet with the grease and wax remover. while the surface it wet take the 2nd cloth (dry and clean) and wipe it off that way your getting all the contamints off. once dry and clean pay for a decent brand of clear in a tin and paint it. hold the can 20cm from the surface while doing it. start spraying off the panel and move onto it in one even stroke and continune till you come off the other side but don't let go while your above the panel.
paint it length ways not passenger to divers side. the more light coats the better but follow the can, don;t worry about dust for now. once it has dryed fully give it at least a day to breath and evaprate any solvents in the paint. don't want to color sand if it hasn't hardened up yet.
Then get some 2000 git wet and dry and soak it in water for 30 mins first to get the best out of it.now when you sand it go at 45 degree angle to what you painted it at. and use long strokes then sand it at the opposite 45degree angle to get rid of the first sanding marks . then give it a soft cut and polish and that should do.
you can use $10 000 per litre and it can still turn out crap if your prep work is not up too scratch but with that being said you can still do a go job with spray cans if you take your time:D enjoy all that reading haha