Well its not that urgent but i need some real good advice here
went to crank the car over yesterday and nothing happened. starter didnt crank, didnt move, just heard one relay ticking over.

So I thought OK, Battery might be dead, so hooked up a jumper pack, alas, no start.

So, thought, well looks like i have to hot-wire the starter...
So hot-wired the starter and low and behold she cranked over fine.

So (Sick of saying so now) the problem lies in my ignition switch wire. I'm using the stock starter and the stock ignition feed to the starter.
I can trace back the wire to just behind the battery tray where it disappears into the drivers gaurd.

Now from the starter the wire is black with a yellow trace and then goes to a black with a blue trace, I thought it might of gone into the transmission somehow so I bridged the wires coming out of the plug there to no avail (same colors)

The plug I'm talking about is about a 10 pin plug behind the battery tray which the auto connects into.

DOES anyone know where i should start looking. (hard question but eh)
Would this "inhibitor switch" have anything to do with it? and where is the POS??? maybe this is stopping it?

When i turn the key all i get is the (!) light appear on the dash...
So yeah before I trace back my ignition feed to the starter which I'm sure I wouldn't of cut as I didn't touch any wires on the drivers side of the dash

Anyone got some things I can try?
Paul

to sum;

your car is a lemon sell it.

But seriously if your battery is ****ed it still may be at fault. By hooking it up to a charger your battery is still in series and may still not start. Swap it with a battery that you know is good.

I assume you shorted your starter where it is mounted and not before your battery? Im tired so that won't make sense.

Ps i found i do have a front engine mount and im willing to give it to you for free (always was) except i decided you should get me a new LH KS rada tail-light with chrome for swapsies.

Take a look under the engine bay relay box ( near the battery) The Auto Trans inhibitor switch is under it, mounted on the trans.
Take the 2 wires off & bridge them, Try again.((( Make sure it is in Park )))

pull the push on terminal that is on the solenoide off and stick a test light in it an the other side of the light to earth,get inside the car and crank the key over into the start position,each time you do this ,the test light should glow,indicating power is getting to the solenoid (or not),when you bridge the starter out,this is all you are bypassing (and maybe the inhibitor switch),try sticking the gear lever in "d" then doing the same to see if it interferes

Steve

Its a manual now for anyone playing at home.
OldAussie - Awesome. The fusebox is apart right now so that should be no problem.
So really I just need to bridge the 2 terminals coming out of the plug behind the battery tray (as this is all thats left from the auto)

I'll try what you said steevo.
Also is there a "starter relay?" (In an exec?)

Worse comes to worse I'll just go to the ignition barrel and run a new wire.

It does sound like the old inhibitor switch. The lamp test on the dash gives it away, and shows you have battery power.

Guys, he DOES NOT HAVE AN INHIBITOR SWITCH!!! not is the battery stuffed

Tuffy, what has happened is you have unpluged your old inhibitor switch, you needed to bridge 2 wired so the car thinks it is in park. Not sure of the colours but the manual will have the wiring diagram or it may be on one of the ones I sent you.

In short, you key is sending the start signal as far as the inhibitor switch plug and that is where it all stops. Find the wire, grab a multi meter if you can not get the colour code, one end at the solonoid and the other at the plug from the switch, you will get plariity when you find the right wire.

Guys, he DOES NOT HAVE AN INHIBITOR SWITCH!!! not is the battery stuffed

Tuffy, what has happened is you have unpluged your old inhibitor switch, you needed to bridge 2 wired so the car thinks it is in park. Not sure of the colours but the manual will have the wiring diagram or it may be on one of the ones I sent you.

In short, you key is sending the start signal as far as the inhibitor switch plug and that is where it all stops. Find the wire, grab a multi meter if you can not get the colour code, one end at the solonoid and the other at the plug from the switch, you will get plariity when you find the right wire.

Sorted :D!
For some reason what I did in my first post, which was bridge the two wires together at the plug didn't work, I grabbed the ol' test light out (didn't have it with me yesterday) and confirmed the two wires I originally bridged together were the ones, So I tried it again and it worked!

So in short, the DOHC is almost alive!
Sort of a pointless thread but I'd rather start one and get some info I need rather then PM 56 million people each time
Mal you can close the thread, Thanks everyone for your input :D