well guys the story is i went to that performance place n i asked the guy if he can fit a CAI to my car and he said YES SURE.... well he made 1 for my car n i liked it but it didnt work lol
the pod filter sits underneath the left fog light... when he put the car on the dyno.. he cldnt accelrate at all, black smoke from the exhaust like no tomorrow, he said that the sensor is detectin a lot of cold air so its burnin a lot of fuel wich is i will be doing arround 50 to 70 ks per tank :badgrin:
im sure many of u guys done cold air but wot did he miss ???? is there anything else to do? and here is the pic of wot hes done.....


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/My_Album_13/DSCF2717.jpg

By the looks of it were you running a MAF sensor as your car wont run properly or at all without it

I hear mitsubishi spent a bit of money on engineering this great factory snorkel that does that exact job, free of charge

you have to plug the maf back up or the car wont detact air blah blah blah.

long story short you need a Maf connected or your car wont work

By the looks of it were you running a MAF sensor as your car wont run properly or at all without it


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/My_Album_13/DSCF2713a.jpg

the CAI starts from there... and he didnt touch anything else.

Check that the plug is in the MAF properly... Serious! I had an issue with the TF that the actual plug was easily knocked out of place and the car would run like crap. Blow black smoke, etc...

In that photo it looks to me that the MAF isn't plugged in, im only guessing but i have had a similar setup and i didnt have an issue but i had the same issue when i broke a wire on the MAF.

Assuming the MAF Sensor is correctly hooked up, functioning, and there are no air leaks after the sensor then what you are describing must be the extreme side effect caused by "swirling" air in the intake.

Apparently - the mistubishi MAF sensor will not meter air correctly unless it follows a fairly straight path thru the sensor. The round pod filter and long round intake pipe is probably causing a significant swirling effect before the air reaches your MAF sensor.

Quite a few people have used round pod filters like yours without major dramas, but I'm pretty sure in all cases - they were mounted immediately before the MAF sensor with an adaptor plate.

How obvious!

That pipe diameter is so stupidly small its ridiculous, get your money back pronto or get him to remake it with minimum 76mm pipe.

Black Beard is right ont he money, the swirling effect caused by the round piping is cauing the the tourble. The standard (karmen vortex) type air flow meters need uniform flow to get correct readings.

Ideally the MAF should be straight after the point of induction, as Phonic just stated the round pipe just causes swirling. The air's got a fair way to travel after being filtered and travelling all the way up that round piping before being read probably doesn't help.

The guy might not recommend the MAF sensor low down right after the pod but hey, I've done it and mine is fine.

I concur,

Since installing a longer tube inbetween my pod and MAF, my car has been running like a POS.

See my ride thread, it is similar to what you have done but the pipe is a bit thicker, same problem but not as extreme as yours, I am experiencing poor acceleration and very rough idle

i cant believe he let you drive out of his shop like that!

and i also cant believe you drove it out!

if its really as bad as you say theres no way that car should be driven, or paid for

Reasonable workmanship... but poor design:doubt:

As mentioned. the AFM is not reading the air flow correctly because of TURBULANCE be fore the MAF, causin the A/F ratios to be outta whack...

Assuming the MAF Sensor is correctly hooked up, functioning, and there are no air leaks after the sensor then what you are describing must be the extreme side effect caused by "swirling" air in the intake.

Apparently - the mistubishi MAF sensor will not meter air correctly unless it follows a fairly straight path thru the sensor. The round pod filter and long round intake pipe is probably causing a significant swirling effect before the air reaches your MAF sensor.

Quite a few people have used round pod filters like yours without major dramas, but I'm pretty sure in all cases - they were mounted immediately before the MAF sensor with an adaptor plate.

i thought thats what the honey comb thingi was for to prevent that.

date they take anything else off apart from the airbox?

i cant believe he let you drive out of his shop like that!

and i also cant believe you drove it out!

if its really as bad as you say theres no way that car should be driven, or paid for

lol where in the post did he say anything about driving it out with it? they tested it on the dyno and it failed.

ive done a lot of reading on 3sx forums about pods, and the karmen vortex mafs used on 6g engines. Seems to be low end response is severely effected when doing anything to the intake plumbing before the MAF. Leaving in the honeycomb to reduce turbulance helps A LOT. 1 thing that has been found though is the voltage readings from the maf at low rpm is substantially weak, it was noted when people started putting on things like fuel trim computers on and even without tuning them low end rpm and idle would return to normal after a intake plumbing upgrade, and most attributed it to a stronger singal back to the ecu.

The best thing you can do is get the MAF out of the engine bay, as its ugly as sin and it allows you to fit it directly behind a pod in the front bumper.

i thought thats what the honey comb thingi was for to prevent that.



Yeah - it definitely is, and my guess is that's why so many people have fitted round type pods directly before the MAF sensor without issue. But this guys case - the pod design + long round pipe + 2 90 degree bends is causing so much turbulence in the air flow that the 1/4 inch thick honeycomb section at the mouth of the sensor is insufficient.

Thats just my guess - I'm not a mechanic or an engineer.

hmmm cool cool

i ran a similar but a POS backyard jop one with 2 90 degree bends using a rod pod and had no issues. my guess is either the hone comb was removed or damaged

lol where in the post did he say anything about driving it out with it? they tested it on the dyno and it failed.

it didnt say ya left it there, therefore i assumed ya drove out.

my bad!

Take out the airflow sensor and see if the honeycomb is still there, if not hit the guy up for a new replacement.

I hear mitsubishi spent a bit of money on engineering this great factory snorkel that does that exact job, free of chargeI see that it's a restrictive POS.

God damnit I hate CAI threads. Brings out the retard in everyone :nuts:

I see that it's a restrictive POS.

How so? a lot of people are running 150+kw with just a K&N filter, even in NA where stock ralliarts and VRX's are getting 127+kw with the stock snorkel

Yes mitsu probably did spend quite a bit of money enginnering the stock snorkel, but what didn't they spend money on?

Just because the intake can support x ammounts of killowatts doesn't mean that it is the best.

The car was developed to be an all rounder, to tick as many boxes as possible.

Yes mitsu probably did spend quite a bit of money enginnering the stock snorkel, but what didn't they spend money on?

Just because the intake can support x ammounts of killowatts doesn't mean that it is the best.

The car was developed to be an all rounder, to tick as many boxes as possible.
People are welcome to correct me if I'm wrong, but the standard intake actually works well, and its not the flow of air that makes it inferior to a CAI, its the temperature of the air that it intakes from directly above the radiator.

to try and help the poor victim of this CAI problem id suggest

having a look to see if the honeycomb is still in its place, if its not, that will be alot of the problem but probably not all of it.

as i mentioned earlier, when you take out the honeycomb low air speed/rpm the signal isnt very stable and you get a real dogged running car, but over 2000rpm its much smoother like stock. i removed the honeycomb and found the same issue but i installed a S-AFC and even without tuning the trim, the car idled better and drove well. I eventually put the big middle honeycomb piece back in (the one that covers the internal element of the MAF) just to clear up a idle problem i had, which funnily enough is still there.

Anyways hope it helps. Also just mcuh sure all the clamps are tight and everything was put back normally... stranger things have happened

1st of all i wana thank all of u guys 4 ur help and ur ideas
im gona ask him to move the MAF just after the induction point n we'll go from there... coz he didnt touch or removed anythin else beside the airbox....


i cant believe he let you drive out of his shop like that!

and i also cant believe you drove it out!

if its really as bad as you say theres no way that car should be driven, or paid for


haha u crack me up we tried it on the dyno it failed n he put everything back n then i drove it out lol...


God damnit I hate CAI threads. Brings out the retard in everyone :nuts:

i guess CAI threads much much helpful than clear side indicators :nuts: :bowrofl:

Yes mitsu probably did spend quite a bit of money enginnering the stock snorkel, but what didn't they spend money on?

Just because the intake can support x ammounts of killowatts doesn't mean that it is the best.

The car was developed to be an all rounder, to tick as many boxes as possible.

i never said it was the best, i just said that it isnt as restrictive as some people believe it to be.

1st of all i wana thank all of u guys 4 ur help and ur ideas
im gona ask him to move the MAF just after the induction point n we'll go from there... coz he didnt touch or removed anythin else beside the airbox....

before you do that just check to see if he put the honey comb on when putting that CAI on

The black piping looks good though :)

The pipe is too small, the air velocity will be quite high in such small diameter pipe (I've got some background in this field ;) ), so the air will be screaming into the air flow meter causing it all sorts of distress. Might've had more success with a similar cross section to the TB diameter and locating the filter in a positive pressure location. Some shielding to deflect air towards the filter will also work effectively.

Wow, one a few bright lights posting in this thread!

BB and Ezboy and those saying the same thing are right.


Go and check out RPW's CAI that (last time i heard) was $400 odd, they extend the MAF wiring and put the MAF onto the pod and then that down at the front bar. Just go buy one of them and get this goose mechanic to fit it and you both can learn something.

Also if I was you, I'd be going with a respected brand of filter, not just any shiz brand which that one looks like. More dirt in your engine = the quicker it dies.

And to the others whinging about stock parts are good enough, yeah yeah, IF THIS DUDE WANTS CAI on a stock car, LET HIM, it's HIS MONEY, HIS CAR etc etc... Geez! Anyone would think it's your money he's spending!

Go and check out RPW's CAI that (last time i heard) was $400 odd, they extend the MAF wiring and put the MAF onto the pod and then that down at the front bar. Just go buy one of them and get this goose mechanic to fit it and you both can learn something.


Just fited one of these and it ain't quite that simple. The MAF loom extension is not supplied - you will have to do this yourself. And no bracketing to hold the kit into the engine bay is supplied. Mr Roberto and I have just done this and both had to make up two braces to rigidly support the kit. That said, it is very effective, looks dead sexy and I'm happy...

isnt it the wrong POD filter, i had one once, did exact same thing, and there was no CAI, u need the other type of POD, with the sealed flat top, and OVAL shape

isnt it the wrong POD filter, i had one once, did exact same thing, and there was no CAI, u need the other type of POD, with the sealed flat top, and OVAL shape


Dont write something if you are not sure.


Also this guys is better off putting the cheap pod in a plastic box and leading washing machine hose to the front grill - it would be a better setup for him!

well the CAI been fitted last week n workin perfectly n tell u the truth i noticed a lot of diffrence... he didnt move the MAF or anything else he just changed the end of the pipe just b4 the MAF... and by the way guys it is a K&N pod filter not any sh**** brand.. anyway here's some pics


dats how the pipe looked b4

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/My_Album_13/DSCF2715.jpg

and dats how it lookes now...

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/My_Album_13/DSCF2733.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/My_Album_13/DSCF2734.jpg

sounds more like he was to much of a tight **** to fix his entire mistake hope you didnt pay to much for this

sounds more like he was to much of a tight **** to fix his entire mistake hope you didnt pay to much for this

nah mate didnt pay anythin it was part of the job...

Dont write something if you are not sure.


Also this guys is better off putting the cheap pod in a plastic box and leading washing machine hose to the front grill - it would be a better setup for him!

im not guessing, cuz i had the same POD as he has on, and it did the exact same thing he is describing, im pretty sure there are more ppl guessing here than me.

Daayummmm...... those welds are um... pretty ordinary... looks like bird droppings from a great hight!

Not to mention hes only used like 2mm plate for the adapter... make sure its got a good seal, looks warped to the buggery!

I don't mean to be nasty,but....that's the most childish attempt at welding I've seen since school days.Glad it's working good,get a pro to reweld i:shock: t.