My problem is really beginning to annoy me.

It all started around 3 years ago, when the car was warming up it would struggle, you would try and drive and try and accelerate and nothing would happen, you would really have to punch it to get going. I sent it to Mitsubishi, they decided it was an Oxygen Sensor, it was replaced. Did not work, problem still there.
The problem got worse and the car was now struggling all the time. I next tried a mechanic a few months later who noticed a sticky valve, while Madmagna was in town he fixed the sticky valve problem but when the car was warming up, the problem was still there. He thought it might be a sensor of some sort.
I sent it back to the mechanic (Graham West Workshop) This place is not some backyard mechanic, if anyone could figure it out it was them, they suggested the fuel pump this time. Nope, still there.
I gave up and now purchased a 3.5 engine but the problem is still there which helps narrow down the possibilities. The engine came with all the gear so no parts were retained besides the ecu and they somehow still used my 3litre pacemakers.

So, any idea's? it's like the engine cuts out and you have put your foot down to get it going. it feels like when you are running out of fuel.

Thanks.

I think i get a similar problem, im having to leave my car running for minutes before i take off in the morning, and even then its still laggy
Mines a 4cyl TR auto, but its like when its cold, i go to accelerate, pretty much nothing happens, and most of the time the engine just cuts off
I've put it down to the cold and said i'll just have to wait for it to warm up because the engine cant work properly when it isnt warm, but who knows
If your problems the same thing and you finally find a fix, i'll be sure to try it for mine too

it could be a blocked cat or muffler box. Have you had a look at the falut codes

But would a blocked muffler/cat box only cause problems on warm up? I would have assumed the mechanic would have looked at codes, they have a sophisticated operation.

it could be a blocked cat or muffler box. Have you had a look at the falut codes

I highly doubt a blocked cat and/or muffler box would create a fault code...

Could be a blocked and/or crushed exhaust pipe somewhere
Steve

Well HARDZY, if every thing has been eliminated EXCEPT the ECU, and since the problem still exists, by the proces of elimination, it must be the ECU?
OH, for the good old days of coil, points and simply carby.!! and a piece of fence wire, just in case!

I know how to reset the ECU on aToyota is the Magna similar ?

Resetting ECU

1) disconnet the battery for 30mins+
2) reconnect the battery and let the car idle for 5-10mins (make sure all the acessories are OFF)
3) turn the car off and disconnect the battery for ~30sec
4) Dont forget to do two laps around the car while patting your head and rubbing your stomach at the same time
5) reconnect the battery, start the car and drive the rings off it.

This speed's up the recalibration process, the 30mins is to clear the ECU so that it rememebers nothing, the 30sec is to let it reboot so to speak, its like updating system files on a PC it needs to reboot to use them the ECU works in the same way, and as for driving the "tit's" of your car, your ECU will learn how you drive and the first 2-300km is its steepest learning curve so you have to shape it so to speak so that you get the end result that you are looking for.
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Thanks Northy and the other doody Dudes at ... http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=2020

Having to warm a car up when it is cold - just shouldn't happen with fuel injection! If you have changed the engine look for problems in the bits that didn't get changed - exhaust system, ECU and any sensors you recycled. Maybe check the timing advance with a timing light to see if the timing is advancing as it should as you rev the engine. The advance cut hasn't been left earthed by someone who checked the timing before you, by any chance?

No idea. I'll take these suggestions into consideration. Thanks.

sounds more like a throttle position sensor to me..

also check the maf sensor is in properly and all the holes in the intake are in one piece...

sounds more like a throttle position sensor to me..

also check the maf sensor is in properly and all the holes in the intake are in one piece...

i was thinking the exact same.

Wouldn't have I changed this when i did the engine swap? Can you guys show me what it is?