Any guys running Ralliart cams with their superchargers (Sprintex or otherwise)? My car currently makes 167kw at the wheels (tuned).

If i went for Ralliart cams how much extra power would i expect to make (with another tune of course). Thinking maybe another 10kw at the wheels?

I'm pretty sure that TZABOY's still using stock cams in his motor.

I've heard estimates of 3kW from slotting Ralliart camshafts into a pre 155kW motor. Seeing as you have a KJ, going by the service guide your cams are already the same as the Ralliart's, with the exception of slightly less lift (1.1mm).

I'm pretty sure that TZABOY's still using stock cams in his motor.

I've heard estimates of 3kW from slotting Ralliart camshafts into a pre 155kW motor. Seeing as you have a KJ, going by the service guide your cams are already the same as the Ralliart's, with the exception of slightly less lift (1.1mm).
Mine's a S1 KJ so 150kw motor, not 155kw.

I'm pretty sure that the 5kW increase the TJ S2 and TL/W models got was from a remapped ECU.

The Mitsubishi manual only has one set of camshaft data relating to TJ and KJ 3.5L engines, and the valve timings and durations are the same as the TJ Ralliart, TL and TW.

are ralliart cams really a big upgrade?

are ralliart cams really a big upgrade?

If you've got a pre TJ 3.0 or 3.5, then yes. Longer valve openings, longer overlap, and slightly increased lift.

are ralliart cams really a big upgrade?

around a stage 0.5

But being that he is supercharged and the ralliart cams dont have much overlap should get a resonable amount out of it as it will flow more better.

around a stage 0.5

But being that he is supercharged and the ralliart cams dont have much overlap should get a resonable amount out of it as it will flow more better.

fair enough. thanx for the info

If you've got a pre TJ 3.0 or 3.5, then yes. Longer valve openings, longer overlap, and slightly increased lift.

Ralliart cams are different to any other magna cams though. They had more lift over pre TJ than they had over TJs2 and later though. 10% more lift if the ralliart magna brochure is anything to go by.

basically what im asking is for a cam upgrade should i get ralliart cams or maybe tighe cams?

all CONSTRUCTIVE advice is much appreciated

basically what im asking is for a cam upgrade should i get ralliart cams or maybe tighe cams?

all CONSTRUCTIVE advice is much appreciated
Tighe cams. Do it properly the first time.

Tighe cams. Do it properly the first time.
Stage 2 i'm guessing? What's the going rate for these? Stage 2 cams with forced induction should see some good gains methinks.

i wanna do everything right the first time, thats why im taking so long, even making decisions is taking longer than expected

Ralliart cams are different to any other magna cams though. They had more lift over pre TJ than they had over TJs2 and later though. 10% more lift if the ralliart magna brochure is anything to go by.

They have the same intake and exhaust valve openings, the same overlap and the same intake and exhaust duration as TJ 1+2, TL and TW. The only difference they have is a 1.1mm increase in lift.

Pre TJ, duration is still the same (248*), but intake and exhaust timings and overlap are different.

You want a lot of lift, and little duration in a blown motor though - get as much into the cylinders as you can, and keep it there. I remember an Autospeed article about the Ralliart floating around here a while ago - apparently the cam tunnels in the 24v heads limit the profile of the cams quite a bit - since they slide in, you've got to be able to fit everything through the tunnels.

Ive heard a lot of good and bad things about tighte Quote from a well respected Engine Builder and Member on this forum "Warning - DO NOT USE Tighe Cams, they are the most useless camshaft makers in Australia.*. Also the term, Tighes cams look like they have been done on an angle grinder, meaning they arent really up to specs, having to use verni cams and whatnot on them to get them spot on. Also that being said BEJ1OS's cams are resonably good.

Ive heard a lot of good and bad things about tighte Quote from a well respected Engine Builder and Member on this forum "Warning - DO NOT USE Tighe Cams, they are the most useless camshaft makers in Australia.*. Also the term, Tighes cams look like they have been done on an angle grinder, meaning they arent really up to specs, having to use verni cams and whatnot on them to get them spot on. Also that being said BEJ1OS's cams are resonably good.

Didn't they muck up EGO's cams?

Ive heard a lot of good and bad things about tighte Quote from a well respected Engine Builder and Member on this forum "Warning - DO NOT USE Tighe Cams, they are the most useless camshaft makers in Australia.*. Also the term, Tighes cams look like they have been done on an angle grinder, meaning they arent really up to specs, having to use verni cams and whatnot on them to get them spot on. Also that being said BEJ1OS's cams are resonably good.

when ya say BEJ10S's cams were REASONABLY good............ thats not really what i wanna hear.

I WANT **** HOT!

any recommendations?

Didn't they muck up EGO's cams?


I think his problem was with a cam gear not the cams themselves.

I've heard a few bad things about tighe cams but i have also heard just as many good thing
about them and i can say first hand i would buy there cams again mine looked perfect (not like they had a grinder put on them) also there are a fair few members running tighe cams so they cant be that bad the if people keep using them.ive heard people say they cant grind a cam straight (mine were fine) but if your going stage 2 cams anyway, then you would run cam gears so its not a major concern just a little pain in the butt.

only problem i had was the pin at the end of the cam was in the wrong hole it was a simple fix that took two minutes once it was worked out.

Here is a photo (not the quality but it will do) i took of my tighe cams and as you can see
they look good not like they have been grinded with a grinder like some people say.

http://img386.imageshack.us/img386/6002/dscf6040dr9.jpg

I think his problem was with a cam gear not the cams themselves.

I've heard a few bad things about tighe cams but i have also heard just as many good thing
about them and i can say first hand i would buy there cams again mine looked perfect (not like they had a grinder put on them) also there are a fair few members running tighe cams so they cant be that bad the if people keep using them.ive heard people say they cant grind a cam straight (mine were fine) but if your going stage 2 cams anyway, then you would run cam gears so its not a major concern just a little pain in the butt.

only problem i had was the pin at the end of the cam was in the wrong hole it was a simple fix that took two minutes once it was worked out.

Here is a photo (not the quality but it will do) i took of my tighe cams and as you can see
they look good not like they have been grinded with a grinder like some people say.

http://img386.imageshack.us/img386/6002/dscf6040dr9.jpg

:nuts: i used as a lateral term, being that bench grinder/angle grinder wasnt about the actual finish of the product meaning more of the accuracy of the cam (being the actual specs) as i said in earlier posts, ive heard good and bad things about Tighe, as i dont have a set and not really going to get some in the very close future i still hold my judgement on there cams.

don't waste your time with ralliart cams. Either get some decent ones made by the guys at tighe or get yours re ground. Now back in the day re grinds were crap, but after talking to some people in the know, and guys not trying to get money out of my pocket they say that you can machine existing cams to whatever profile you like. I should have done this when i had my heads done, and will probably pop my heads off soon to do the cams as the car cant make much more puff with the N/A cams

IMO the ralliart cam makes negligible difference with a Sprintex kit.

In a stock NA motor, the standard cam profile is the main limiting factor of top-end breathing, so even an extra 10mm of lift instantly lifts the top end noticeably.

But with FI the rules are different, the factory lift is sufficient for a setup such as the Sprintex's.

For example, when my motor was near-stock NA, peak power was @5200rpm. Peak power with the Sprintex is at 6,000rpm, and the drop-off after that is relatively gradual.

I'm not saying there aren't gains to be had from changing cams, but IMO the ralliart cam makes bugger-all difference.

In theory a sprintex'ed ralliart should make slightly more power due to having an extra 0.4:1 of compression. But thats assuming the ralliarts are getting the same tunes as the "normal" magnas - anyone comfirm/deny this?

Why does every one use Tighe Cams? I have always used Wagott Cams and never had a problem. They are CHEAPER and can do any custom grind you want.
Just my 2c worth.

Why does every one use Tighe Cams? I have always used Wagott Cams and never had a problem. They are CHEAPER and can do any custom grind you want.
Just my 2c worth.

Got a Phone number/website address? PM it to me if you dont want it public.

:nuts: i used as a lateral term, being that bench grinder/angle grinder wasnt about the actual finish of the product meaning more of the accuracy of the cam (being the actual specs) as i said in earlier posts, ive heard good and bad things about Tighe, as i dont have a set and not really going to get some in the very close future i still hold my judgement on there cams.

Yep the actual finish on there cams are good BUT the actual lobe placement/specs dont seem to be totally accurate.

The only way to make sure the cams you buy are absolutly what ya payed for is to have the cams run on a "Cam Doctor", this machine will give exact readings of each lobe on the cam..... Lets just say the last set of tighe cams i had made, had the front cam exhaust lobes 30degrees out in relation to the intakes, so exhaust valve timing was no where near the specs asked for!
The intakes on both cams though were spot on to my specs as was the exhausts on the rear cam.

It seems that sometimes there workers must be off smoking lots of cones or something else or they simply dont know how to "clock" the cams into the cam grinding machine correctly

Got a Phone number/website address? PM it to me if you dont want it public.

Ah i used to play cricket and ended up going to high school with his son, small family business in Alstonville (northern NSW) the grand-dad from there made the first DOHC 4cyl or something real smart fella's.

Ie google waggot cams alstonville