hey guys. I've brought new cv driveshafts and need 2 know how to put them in. im not sure. i read magna buffs info post but it confused me. couldnt understand between the boot and shaft. and what tools are needeD? thanks.

Just download the manual.
Read.
Understand.
Imagine yourself doing it.

PS I miss my mum too . . . .

This is how I replace them although im sure someone will point out there is a better way to do it.

Tools needed:
2 Axle stands
32mm, 17mm sockets
17mm , 12mm ring/ open spanners.
needle nose pliers
Hammer
Big **** breaker bar.

Parts Needed:
Replacement drive shafts
5l of mitsubishi auto transmission fluid.
New split pins
Pack of large cable ties

Passenger side shaft
1) Park car on level surface and turn the steering wheel about half a turn to the left
2) Jack up front left side of the car and lower onto an axle stand.
3)Remove wheel
4)Remove split pin from end of drive shaft and remove 32mm retaining nut.
5)Remove 12mm bolt at bottom of the front brake caliper, swing caliper up and slide of the top pin. Use the large cable ties to secure it to the front spring high up out of the way.
6) Remove the two 17mm bolts hold the strut the to steering knuckle/hub assembly.
7)Push the outer shaft joint up and out of the wheel hub.
8) If you read the service manual it has some procedure to remove the shaft from the relay shaft involving using a lever in the joint or something, Usually I just grab hold of the shaft and tight as i can and yank at it till it comes out.
9) Inspect the splines on the relay shaft and see if that are bent or damaged at all.
10) Place the new shaft inner joint over the end of the relay shaft.
11) Place the standard jack ( the car should be on axle stands at this point) under the car next to the lower suspension arm so it holds the new drive shaft level.
12) You need to get the shaft sitting their so both joints are completely straight and the shaft is level.
13)Screw the retaining nut on the end of the shaft so it is flush with the end
14) Using a piece of wood as a drift give the end of the shaft a good few hits with the hammer to get it to slide onto the relay shaft, it will move a good 10cm when it goes on.
15)Slide the outer joint into the wheel hub.
16) Reassemble the front brakes and suspension in reverse order to how you took it apart.


The drivers side is basicly the same thing except first you need to drain the auto transmission. Also turn the steering wheel half a turn to the right before you start.

thanks robbieins2 and zOMG
I see the problem :nuts:
tm-tp info
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=801483#poststop

there should be no need to remove the brake caliper... just leave it on the rotor..

cv will still come out once you have removed the steering knuckle and strut from the hub.

You don;t absolutely have to remove the caliper, but it makes life easier and I figure the less stress you put on the 20 year old rubber pipe that stops the car the better.

thanks guys. That helped heaps. will be doing this weekend.

arent the split pins on the cv joints?? these are new ones so they should be in yer?

5l? surely not all this is needed yer?

thanks

By split pins I mean the pins that go through the end of the shaft to stop the retaining nut coming lose, Old ones tend to snap when you pull them out, a new pack of like 20 is $4 at bunnings. The whole transmission takes 5.8L or something like that, but you only need to drain the diff to change the shaft. Also make sure you get real mitsubishi transmission fluid, generic autobarn crap will stuff your transmission.

just put a drop tray underneath your gearbox. If you get the hub side off first and have the new CV's ready to go, you can pull them off and put the new ones in really quickly and you only lose 1/2 a litre of gbox oil. :)

robbieins2 dont forget to put an oil catch can under the D/s CV joint

gearbox oil comes out ...usually
and spilt pins for the tie rod ends castelated nuts