mcs_xi
20-09-2008, 07:10 PM
Some of the newer cars come with automatic operated lights using a daylight sensor. The idea is, if you drive at night or in a tunnel, the lights work without you either remembering to turn them on, or afterwards, off again.
My KH Verada warrants this feature as it was fitted with the High Contrast instruments which are always backlit, and at dusk, I forget to turn the lights on, also I would prefer the lights to be automated (me being very lazy).
YOU WILL NEED FOR A 3rd Gen
- Headlight Commander Unit (Supercheap $29)
- Assorted Wiring
- 2x 12v SPDT Relays (DSE - $6.49ea) PN: P8035
- 2x Relay Base Harness (DSE - $1.94ea) PN: P8036 (optional)
- 1x Good Quality Switch (Repco - $5.99) optional
- 1x Multi Meter (DSE $10)
- 1x Endless trip to find a $6 battery for the $10 Multimeter!!!!
- Assorted Plugs/Connections are YOUR choice! But are handy.
http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp136/mcstannard_bucket/DSCF2009.jpg
This is a simple mod as all of the “working out” has been done. However, depending on how professional with the wiring you are this could take from 2-5 hours.
The Headlight Commander works by getting a single power source, and using the sensor as a switch, sending power 12v+ to the park & headlight relays. Unfortunately, the relays in the required list above are needed because Mitsubishis are wired so that the Column switch earths the relay power to get the lights to work.
STEP ONE – Sussing out Wiring
After downloading the Tech Manuals (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56815) and removing the drivers side kick panel and the steering columns surrounds, unplug the headlight/parker Col. Switch Plug as per the picture.
http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp136/mcstannard_bucket/DSCF1983.jpg
The car photographed is a KH Verada Xi. So if you don’t have as many plugs there, it’s because my car has fog lights etc.
Check you have the right plug by unplugging it and testing the lights. You high beams should work but the low/parkers will not.
Get a Multi-meter/Test light out and find two of the wires which have power when the switch is off. In my car, it is the BLK/Red Stripe (parkers) & the RED/Yellow Stripe (headlights). Included is a wiring diagram for both a Magna & Verada (http://www.box.net/shared/gq8nitsm42) (Head & Park lights) to check the wire colours.
STEP TWO – Installing the Sensor & the Unit
After the above, its best to work out where you want to install the box & sensor. I placed the sensor next to the climate control sensor in the front/middle of the dash. To do this I removed the air vents using a fabricated tool, (grind a very long screwdriver like below as it looks/work like Mitsu’s version) and also removed the trip computer.
http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp136/mcstannard_bucket/DSCF2051.jpg
You can then get a hand in to pop up the climate control sensor & unplug it.
I then used a bit of adhesive to hold the new sensor in place and ran the wire down the side of the stereo. I chose to install the box onto the frame next to the stereo as it will not rattle, it is close to the sensor wire plug and is out of the way.
A Top Tip is to zip tie and tape the unit so it will not rattle against anything as well as taping down the plugs.
http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp136/mcstannard_bucket/DSCF2054.jpg
After securing the unit I placed an illuminated switch in the kick panel as below:
I have wired this switch with a plug so if the kick panel is removed, the connections will go to the right place. The switch has 3 connections. 1 for power in, 1 for power out and an earth. When power is being supplied to the headlight unit, the light is on. This switch allows me to override the Headlight commander if I want to or if it fails etc.
STEP THREE – Wiring the Unit In
As the unit is installed, the only thing left to do is install the wiring, place the relays and plug it all in. With the wiring, Crimp or Solder is YOUR choice.
After using the Wiring Diagram (http://www.box.net/shared/70cx4u15d8) to sort out the connections, I fabricated a loom which is sealed & plugged. Basically all the connections to the existing wiring in the car will have a plug on the end and the new loom will connection to it. As the new loom is zip tied/taped to the existing wiring, the install looks as factory as possible, better I think than the ‘pro’ install for my Head Unit. If this is the direction you choose to take, make sure you wire enough length to get around various obstacles in the car.
http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp136/mcstannard_bucket/DSCF2055.jpg
TIP- PLEASE check with a multi meter for continuity in the circuit during fabrication and installation. This is done by using the OHM (horseshoe) symbol on the meter. If your luck is anything like mine, you will have (as I Did!!) a single wire which will not work and it will be at the back, taped up, and dark and you will swear.
TIP -Again, a Top Tip is to get a light coloured tape or sticky thing and label loose wires during the loom fabrication. It makes it really easy not having to trace wires when making a plug end!!!
After this, all that’s necessary is to connect the loom to the power & earth points of your choice.
I USED:
Red/Yellow Strip (Headlight Relay Power);
Black/Red Strip (Parklight Relay Power);
Blue (pin4) Power Mirror 12Vin (Goes to the Switch for headlights to work ACC mode)
Various Earth points around the car. Connections should be free of paint and direct to the chassis.
STEP FOUR – Reassemble & Admire
This is the finished install. Only the switch & the sensor top (vaguely) are visible for this mod and it is extremely useful in my opinion.
TIP – Make sure you do the wiring well. Use quality connection and take time. I can tell you the absolute LAST thing you want is to have to repair it after it’s a week old.
Now, after reassembly, final test but putting a small piece of black electrical tape to the sensor, (because after all the fiddling with wiring, you fingerprints are gone and using your thumb will make the dash bloody) your lights should come on after a slight pause. If this does not happen, swear, and then calmly repeat instructions from beginning.
Please PM me if you need further info
I would like to extend my thanks to the brilliant AMC member who has provided endless help for me with the many obstacles to be overcome. You know who you are, and without your help, myself and the rest of the members who use this guide would not be able to benefit. So THANKYOU. IF you ever need anything, please do not hesitate to PM.
In addition, to any AMC’ers who have provided input into any thread regarding this topic, cheers. Generally with this forum, any post is usually worthwhile. Especially in this case.
Michael
My KH Verada warrants this feature as it was fitted with the High Contrast instruments which are always backlit, and at dusk, I forget to turn the lights on, also I would prefer the lights to be automated (me being very lazy).
YOU WILL NEED FOR A 3rd Gen
- Headlight Commander Unit (Supercheap $29)
- Assorted Wiring
- 2x 12v SPDT Relays (DSE - $6.49ea) PN: P8035
- 2x Relay Base Harness (DSE - $1.94ea) PN: P8036 (optional)
- 1x Good Quality Switch (Repco - $5.99) optional
- 1x Multi Meter (DSE $10)
- 1x Endless trip to find a $6 battery for the $10 Multimeter!!!!
- Assorted Plugs/Connections are YOUR choice! But are handy.
http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp136/mcstannard_bucket/DSCF2009.jpg
This is a simple mod as all of the “working out” has been done. However, depending on how professional with the wiring you are this could take from 2-5 hours.
The Headlight Commander works by getting a single power source, and using the sensor as a switch, sending power 12v+ to the park & headlight relays. Unfortunately, the relays in the required list above are needed because Mitsubishis are wired so that the Column switch earths the relay power to get the lights to work.
STEP ONE – Sussing out Wiring
After downloading the Tech Manuals (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56815) and removing the drivers side kick panel and the steering columns surrounds, unplug the headlight/parker Col. Switch Plug as per the picture.
http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp136/mcstannard_bucket/DSCF1983.jpg
The car photographed is a KH Verada Xi. So if you don’t have as many plugs there, it’s because my car has fog lights etc.
Check you have the right plug by unplugging it and testing the lights. You high beams should work but the low/parkers will not.
Get a Multi-meter/Test light out and find two of the wires which have power when the switch is off. In my car, it is the BLK/Red Stripe (parkers) & the RED/Yellow Stripe (headlights). Included is a wiring diagram for both a Magna & Verada (http://www.box.net/shared/gq8nitsm42) (Head & Park lights) to check the wire colours.
STEP TWO – Installing the Sensor & the Unit
After the above, its best to work out where you want to install the box & sensor. I placed the sensor next to the climate control sensor in the front/middle of the dash. To do this I removed the air vents using a fabricated tool, (grind a very long screwdriver like below as it looks/work like Mitsu’s version) and also removed the trip computer.
http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp136/mcstannard_bucket/DSCF2051.jpg
You can then get a hand in to pop up the climate control sensor & unplug it.
I then used a bit of adhesive to hold the new sensor in place and ran the wire down the side of the stereo. I chose to install the box onto the frame next to the stereo as it will not rattle, it is close to the sensor wire plug and is out of the way.
A Top Tip is to zip tie and tape the unit so it will not rattle against anything as well as taping down the plugs.
http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp136/mcstannard_bucket/DSCF2054.jpg
After securing the unit I placed an illuminated switch in the kick panel as below:
I have wired this switch with a plug so if the kick panel is removed, the connections will go to the right place. The switch has 3 connections. 1 for power in, 1 for power out and an earth. When power is being supplied to the headlight unit, the light is on. This switch allows me to override the Headlight commander if I want to or if it fails etc.
STEP THREE – Wiring the Unit In
As the unit is installed, the only thing left to do is install the wiring, place the relays and plug it all in. With the wiring, Crimp or Solder is YOUR choice.
After using the Wiring Diagram (http://www.box.net/shared/70cx4u15d8) to sort out the connections, I fabricated a loom which is sealed & plugged. Basically all the connections to the existing wiring in the car will have a plug on the end and the new loom will connection to it. As the new loom is zip tied/taped to the existing wiring, the install looks as factory as possible, better I think than the ‘pro’ install for my Head Unit. If this is the direction you choose to take, make sure you wire enough length to get around various obstacles in the car.
http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp136/mcstannard_bucket/DSCF2055.jpg
TIP- PLEASE check with a multi meter for continuity in the circuit during fabrication and installation. This is done by using the OHM (horseshoe) symbol on the meter. If your luck is anything like mine, you will have (as I Did!!) a single wire which will not work and it will be at the back, taped up, and dark and you will swear.
TIP -Again, a Top Tip is to get a light coloured tape or sticky thing and label loose wires during the loom fabrication. It makes it really easy not having to trace wires when making a plug end!!!
After this, all that’s necessary is to connect the loom to the power & earth points of your choice.
I USED:
Red/Yellow Strip (Headlight Relay Power);
Black/Red Strip (Parklight Relay Power);
Blue (pin4) Power Mirror 12Vin (Goes to the Switch for headlights to work ACC mode)
Various Earth points around the car. Connections should be free of paint and direct to the chassis.
STEP FOUR – Reassemble & Admire
This is the finished install. Only the switch & the sensor top (vaguely) are visible for this mod and it is extremely useful in my opinion.
TIP – Make sure you do the wiring well. Use quality connection and take time. I can tell you the absolute LAST thing you want is to have to repair it after it’s a week old.
Now, after reassembly, final test but putting a small piece of black electrical tape to the sensor, (because after all the fiddling with wiring, you fingerprints are gone and using your thumb will make the dash bloody) your lights should come on after a slight pause. If this does not happen, swear, and then calmly repeat instructions from beginning.
Please PM me if you need further info
I would like to extend my thanks to the brilliant AMC member who has provided endless help for me with the many obstacles to be overcome. You know who you are, and without your help, myself and the rest of the members who use this guide would not be able to benefit. So THANKYOU. IF you ever need anything, please do not hesitate to PM.
In addition, to any AMC’ers who have provided input into any thread regarding this topic, cheers. Generally with this forum, any post is usually worthwhile. Especially in this case.
Michael