Hey all
My current shockers are on the way out so I;m looking to replacing them. one is starting to leak and the other 3 and badly worn.
So far pedders are saying $100 each, bursons want $120 each and supercheap want $125.

How difficult is changing the shocks? Realistically is this something I can do myself? I've got a socket set, torque wrench, jack stands and I can borrow a spring compressor. Do I need any other tools?

According to the workshop manual there is a bearing in the top of the front shock absorbers, do these need replacing?


Thanks

Hey all
My current shockers are on the way out so I;m looking to replacing them. one is starting to leak and the other 3 and badly worn.
So far pedders are saying $100 each, bursons want $120 each and supercheap want $125.

How difficult is changing the shocks? Realistically is this something I can do myself? I've got a socket set, torque wrench, jack stands and I can borrow a spring compressor. Do I need any other tools?

According to the workshop manual there is a bearing in the top of the front shock absorbers, do these need replacing?


Thanks

mate its a very easy job.... you've got all the tools... ive got this job down to one hour with 2 ppl working on the car.. allow yourself a full day first time round though...

don't have to change the strut top bearing unless they're stuffed....

You just need spring compressors and a little bit of time and patients.

If you get stuck, post some pics and we can all help you out.

as a matter of interest, when changing shocks, it that a good time to renew any bushes?

...and if so, which ones?

as a matter of interest, when changing shocks, it that a good time to renew any bushes?

...and if so, which ones?


With bushes, dont bother till they are cracking/split/worn through, also when replacing them do them all the same brand and type aka all Rubber or all Poly. Also remember that the plastic bushes need to be lubed regularly and make the ride harsher.

Also to the OP, What brand shocks did you ask for at supercheap? and no the strut top doesnt need replacing unless its making noise

Also to the OP, What brand shocks did you ask for at supercheap? and no the strut top doesnt need replacing unless its making noise


I didn;t specify a brand, just shocks for an 89 magna sedan. I'll call back tomorrow and find
out what brand.

Is there any reason I shouldn;t get the Pedders brand ones?

I didn;t specify a brand, just shocks for an 89 magna sedan. I'll call back tomorrow and find
out what brand.

Is there any reason I shouldn;t get the Pedders brand ones?

Heard on the wire that they are meh, so far ive had one encounter with Pedders and now the whole rear subframe of the car makes noises now wheres before it didnt. That being said there stuff is just rebranded Red ranger gear which makes Whiteline and Nolathane.

Get some King Lows and Kyb's through Phillcom Rally.....only way forward.

Also to the OP, What brand shocks did you ask for at supercheap?

Ok today I called up 3 different supercheap stores to get the details.

The first said they had Gabriel brand fronts for $100/ea and rears for $38/ea, I double checked with him and its definitely $38/ea.

2nd store said they don't have any shocks for Magnas.

3rd store said they had Gabriel fronts for $100/ea. Gabriel rears for $206/pair and KBY rears for $190/pair.

After all that I thought I would give autobarn a call too, They had Monroe rears for $189/pair and monroe front struts for $139 each.

Ok now I don;t know what to make of all this. Whats the difference between the shock and the strut. In my mind the strut in the whole assembly including the spring? or is it everything minus the spring?

What do people think of Gabriel brand shocks? Are all these brands a much of a muchness?

Ok today I called up 3 different supercheap stores to get the details.

The first said they had Gabriel brand fronts for $100/ea and rears for $38/ea, I double checked with him and its definitely $38/ea.

2nd store said they don't have any shocks for Magnas.

3rd store said they had Gabriel fronts for $100/ea. Gabriel rears for $206/pair and KBY rears for $190/pair.

After all that I thought I would give autobarn a call too, They had Monroe rears for $189/pair and monroe front struts for $139 each.

Ok now I don;t know what to make of all this. Whats the difference between the shock and the strut. In my mind the strut in the whole assembly including the spring? or is it everything minus the spring?

What do people think of Gabriel brand shocks? Are all these brands a much of a muchness?

Can you PM me the store names please?

Also Gabriel and Monroe are made in the same factory in Mexico now, just one comes out red the other blue. Go KYB's dude at least they are made in Japan.

i put new suspenion in the 90 tp of mine last year.
I bought everything from repco which was monroe gas reflect struts $100 each for the front and $190 for both of the rears. plus a bump stop kit for each corner for $44. (plastic bumpstop,rubber boot to protect strut shaft and zip ties )

Also went to fulcrum suspenion (australia wide) and bought strut top insulators $38 each.(looks like a big rubber donut on top of the strut shaft but under the tower it self)
bought more but won't drag on about it . plus i put it in with pretty much the same amount of tools as you have. after you do one side you tend to do the other side in half the time. i suggest you arm yourself with a manual and tention wrench first then just lay aside a bit of time. theres enough of us hear to help you or walk you through it if you get stuck

i put new suspenion in the 90 tp of mine last year.
I bought everything from repco which was monroe gas reflect struts $100 each for the front and $190 for both of the rears. plus a bump stop kit for each corner for $44. (plastic bumpstop,rubber boot to protect strut shaft and zip ties )

Also went to fulcrum suspenion (australia wide) and bought strut top insulators $38 each.(looks like a big rubber donut on top of the strut shaft but under the tower it self)
bought more but won't drag on about it . plus i put it in with pretty much the same amount of tools as you have. after you do one side you tend to do the other side in half the time. i suggest you arm yourself with a manual and tention wrench first then just lay aside a bit of time. theres enough of us hear to help you or walk you through it if you get stuck

I have 2 of these on my spare pedders springs and shocks (rears) whats the point of these?

anyone?

']I have 2 of these on my spare pedders springs and shocks (rears) whats the point of these?

sorry tuffy only just got a computer back .
They sit between the top of the coil and the under sider of the strut tower. my guess would be to stop the top of the spring from rubbing on the tower the tower. because it's called an insulator i figure it insulates against (sp?) noise and vibration. plus it probably holds the spring in place so it doesn't pop out incase something from the front lets go.
but seeing as i don't work for a suspenion company then all im doing is guessing.

I also bought and changed all my front end bushes for poly one's. like lower control arm bushes,sway bar link bushes, sway bar d bushes and the rear is next:D

Ok so what started out as replacing two shockers has somewhat escalated. I've decided while I'm at it I'll fit lowered springs. I just got a quote back from Phillcom rally, 4 Kyb shockers and 4 king lows for $620. To me this sounds like a good deal. Just a few questions. They drop the car 45mm, will this have an effect on the camber? Where should I go to get a wheel alignment afterwards? I was thinking pedders.

as soon as you do anything to your suspension a wheel alignment is recommended....changing springs and shocks is easy as just make sure you get a decent set of spring compressors, i bought a cheap set (being a tight ****) and nearly took my head off when they slipped.

can ANYONE tell me were to get front strut tops from for a third gen?? mitsu wants $122.50 each at trade.

Just Mitsys

hey if renew my shocks from old but still worthy shocks , will there be an advantaged result?

don't have to change the strut top bearing unless they're stuffed....
Would this by chance make a knocking noise???


I'm due for new shocks too, going to go KYB, Gabriel are ****e dont touch them, GT Gas monroes arent too bad had them b4.

Anyone recommend which KYBs? The Excel-G or AGX series?

For a reason not to go pedders; I had a set in an old R31 Skyline, knew they were stuffed, when mechanic removed them, they had a orange ring(from heat Im guessing) around one part and a crack all the way around the strut, they were white struts btw.

Over a decade ago with a previous car I had Gabriel's fitted and was reversing the boat up the driveway and when I went up over the gutter there was an almighty "crack"
What had happened was the welding of the shocker to the lower eye had snapped.
Closer inspection revealed that Gabriel only had 2 tack welds where other companies weld them all the way round.
It was over a decade ago and maybe they have changed but just inspect to see they are fully welded.
BTW, At the time they were half the price of other brands, now we know why.

Would this by chance make a knocking noise???


I'm due for new shocks too, going to go KYB, Gabriel are ****e dont touch them, GT Gas monroes arent too bad had them b4.

Anyone recommend which KYBs? The Excel-G or AGX series?

For a reason not to go pedders; I had a set in an old R31 Skyline, knew they were stuffed, when mechanic removed them, they had a orange ring(from heat Im guessing) around one part and a crack all the way around the strut, they were white struts btw.

Ok, ill lay out some truths as people here have there info incorrect.

Gabriel = Monroe, they are both made in the same factory now, in New Mexico (all Struts) However some of the older twin eyelet style shocks still come from the US.

KYB's only make shocks for the magna in the Excel-G style, the only adjustable shocks you can get for magnas are Koni Reds/Yellows or coilovers. Apparently Blistein do as well, but i cannot get the part number from my suppliers from work and the rep has yet to get back to me on this, even after 6-10 phonecalls/messages.

Pedders source ALL there gear from Red Ranger, who make Nolathane, Whiteline, Superpro and a few other brands as well that i cant remember off the top of my head.

As for Strut Tops you have 3 options, Genuine, or Noltec Street or Track Adjustable.

Bump stops are Genuine only for the rears, Fronts however you can get aftermarket.

Spring Insulators (that sit on the top and bottom of the spring for 2nd and 3rd gens) stop any noises from the spring when its cold. They are 3 bucks each from mitsi.

Also people comparing products from 10 years ago to now, need to have a rethink, i tend to sell anywhere from 5-20 sets of Gabriels a week off the shelf and providing they are Primed, and fitted correctly you will have a good service life out of them. In 3 years ive been in spare parts ive had a grand total of 1 set of shocks come back, and that was because they werent primed before fitting and the valve was operated dry and it seized.

[QUOTE=magna00Also people comparing products from 10 years ago to now, need to have a rethink, [/QUOTE]

Are Gabriels welded all the way round nowadays or do they still do the 2 tack welds?

Are Gabriels welded all the way round nowadays or do they still do the 2 tack welds?

Well im at work atm, ill duck down, pull a couple of random 2 eyelet ones out and check.

EDIT: just checked they are forged to a cup style fitting at the bottom of the shock with full weild all the way around the base of the shock.

Ok, ill lay out some truths as people here have there info incorrect.

Gabriel = Monroe, they are both made in the same factory now, in New Mexico (all Struts) However some of the older twin eyelet style shocks still come from the US.

KYB's only make shocks for the magna in the Excel-G style, the only adjustable shocks you can get for magnas are Koni Reds/Yellows or coilovers. Apparently Blistein do as well, but i cannot get the part number from my suppliers from work and the rep has yet to get back to me on this, even after 6-10 phonecalls/messages.

Pedders source ALL there gear from Red Ranger, who make Nolathane, Whiteline, Superpro and a few other brands as well that i cant remember off the top of my head.

As for Strut Tops you have 3 options, Genuine, or Noltec Street or Track Adjustable.

Bump stops are Genuine only for the rears, Fronts however you can get aftermarket.

Spring Insulators (that sit on the top and bottom of the spring for 2nd and 3rd gens) stop any noises from the spring when its cold. They are 3 bucks each from mitsi.

Also people comparing products from 10 years ago to now, need to have a rethink, i tend to sell anywhere from 5-20 sets of Gabriels a week off the shelf and providing they are Primed, and fitted correctly you will have a good service life out of them. In 3 years ive been in spare parts ive had a grand total of 1 set of shocks come back, and that was because they werent primed before fitting and the valve was operated dry and it seized.

The last set of monroes I got had made in Australia on them. They are a global company with various manufacturing plants(Adelaide). Also, Super pro are made by Fulcrum, Even I remember that from my 5 years at Super Cheap, and i believe a little softer than nolathane.

But like 00 said, you replace shocks maybe once in your cars lifetime and in the 5 years in retail, even i only saw one set come back(Monroe) and that was cause the customer said it felt like the original one and no different(off the car not fitted:nuts: ) if you are unsure, get some help or take it in to a mechanic

The last set of monroes I got had made in Australia on them. They are a global company with various manufacturing plants(Adelaide). Also, Super pro are made by Fulcrum, Even I remember that from my 5 years at Super Cheap, and i believe a little softer than nolathane.

But like 00 said, you replace shocks maybe once in your cars lifetime and in the 5 years in retail, even i only saw one set come back(Monroe) and that was cause the customer said it felt like the original one and no different(off the car not fitted:nuts: ) if you are unsure, get some help or take it in to a mechanic

partially incorrect, they once were made by fulcrum, they are now sourced out of red ranger, as superpro is no longer a Fulcrum only supplier, Bursons, driveline and several others can now stock and supply said bushes, it also has it on the packaging as well that its made by Red Ranger. Yes they are softer then Nolathane as they use a lower grade of Poly (65 grade compared to 80).

The only shocks not made in mexico these days are the Quick struts and Mcpherson Strut i believe.

I have Monroe GT Gas shocks in my car. After 2 and a bit years they're still going strong. They're a bit firm but that's what i like so they're prefect for what i was after.

My shocks arrived on friday, while I paid for KYBs there was some supply problem so I've ended up with Boges at the same price, big thumbs up to Phillcom rally the service has been great. Ok last 2 questions I promise.
1) Just reading a few older threads people have mentioned priming the shocks before fitting? What does this involve?

2) My understanding is when im lowering the car I need to reset the suspension bushes so the bushes are unstressed when the car is sitting at its new ride height. Is this just a case of loosening the suspension bolts then retorqueing them once the car is on its wheels?

My shocks arrived on friday, while I paid for KYBs there was some supply problem so I've ended up with Boges at the same price, big thumbs up to Phillcom rally the service has been great. Ok last 2 questions I promise.
1) Just reading a few older threads people have mentioned priming the shocks before fitting? What does this involve?

2) My understanding is when im lowering the car I need to reset the suspension bushes so the bushes are unstressed when the car is sitting at its new ride height. Is this just a case of loosening the suspension bolts then retorqueing them once the car is on its wheels?

Priming is basically having the shock in a Vice/between your feet and pushing the rod all the way into the shock and letting it recoil out approx 12 times, allows the fluid to move around and get back into the valving as most shocks are stored horizontal, and allows them to do so unloaded.

Ok I've run into a problem. I got the rear shocks done easy enough but I can't get the fronts out. The problem is that the nut that attaches the top of the strut to the body is recessed behind a circular cover. To remove the strut you are ment to stop the strut from rotating using an allenkey and undo the main nut, the issue is using the allenkey stops me from using a socket on the nut and I can;t get to it using a ring spanner because of the nut is recessed. What should I do? Can I get a tube spanner or something that will reach the nut and also allow me to put an allenkey in the top? The only other thing I can think off is putting a socket over the nut then trying to grip it with a pipe wrench or something?


Edit: Ok that didnt make a whole load of sense, this is the nut.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n270/323987025/AMC/DSCN1753.jpg

Ok I've run into a problem. I got the rear shocks done easy enough but I can't get the fronts out. The problem is that the nut that attaches the top of the strut to the body is recessed behind a circular cover. To remove the strut you are ment to stop the strut from rotating using an allenkey and undo the main nut, the issue is using the allenkey stops me from using a socket on the nut and I can;t get to it using a ring spanner because of the nut is recessed. What should I do? Can I get a tube spanner or something that will reach the nut and also allow me to put an allenkey in the top? The only other thing I can think off is putting a socket over the nut then trying to grip it with a pipe wrench or something?


Edit: Ok that didnt make a whole load of sense, this is the nut.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n270/323987025/AMC/DSCN1753.jpg

Yeah Tubespanner will work, only need to crack it then it should be fairly simple to undo by hand,

Or crack them when the car is still on the ground - it will make it easier - just undo about 1/2 to 3/4 turn DO NOT REMOVE IT COMPLETLY
The full car weight will stop the strut shaft from turning

Or crack them when the car is still on the ground - it will make it easier - just undo about 1/2 to 3/4 turn DO NOT REMOVE IT COMPLETLY
The full car weight will stop the strut shaft from turning

If its anything like the 3rd gen rears, with all the weight still on it, the inner will still spin

Or crack them when the car is still on the ground - it will make it easier - just undo about 1/2 to 3/4 turn DO NOT REMOVE IT COMPLETLY
The full car weight will stop the strut shaft from turning

Yeah I did that in the end. The shaft turned abit but the spring stopped it turning more then 1/4 of a turn.

The old bump stops came out in about 15 pieces and the new multi fit bump stops i got from pedders don't fit so I'm taking them back in the morning to work out whats what. They are the right length but the centre is too narrow to fit over the shaft. Is the bump stop ment to just sit at the top of the shaft or slide down to the bottom?

the bump stop sits at the top of the shaft and thay can be a tight fit

Yeah I got 1 strut together in the end but I'm still not convinced I've done it right.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n270/323987025/AMC/IMGP1715.jpg

This is the multi fit bump stop. The instructions say I;m ment to cut it down to fit. The problem is the only segment that I can get to fit is the far left one, and even then I can get the spring seat down far enough to properly fit the strut together.

Mmk new problem, cracking the nut on top of the strut with a socket worked on one side but just trying the other even with the cars weight on it the shaft just spun. Tube spanners are too long to get an allen key down the middle. I also had a hunt around a few places today but couldnt find any type of ring spanner that would work. Has anyone done this before on a first gen? What did you do?
**** this is a pita, i get why people pay mechanics to do this crap :doubt:

get a rattle gun

get a rattle gun

I'm not there yet, i think at that stage i'll get a mechanic to fix it/torch the piece of **** out of frustration.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n270/323987025/AMC/ring-spanners_10367469.jpg

I think this is what i need.

yes that's what you need or a rattle gun

Ok i'm incompetent i can admit that, I double triple checked the order that the rear struts go together, i did it exactly like it shows in the work shop manual and exactly like the old ones came apart. Now they look like this.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n270/323987025/AMC/IMGP1754.jpg

what the hell have I don't wrong, the spring supports the cars weight fine but there just nothing to push the shock piston back down?????

dont they have a hat thing that goes on top?

LOL that is funny, did the other side come ok?

The other side did the same thing.

What hat thing. you mean the rubber cover? Thats just a dust cover, the shock just popped it off.

looks like you didn't put the other bush in and washer there need to be 2 bush in each side and 2 washers each side

There is a 2nd bush below the spring seat but the shaft just slips right through it. There was only one washer originally and only one in the manual. :confused:

lol someone make that into a fail pic please :bowrofl: :bowrofl:

put the washer on first and than put the bush on under the bracket and them put the top bush on and washer and nut

and the shock dust cover has the washer in it so make sure it's on

lol someone make that into a fail pic please :bowrofl: :bowrofl:
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g35/z0mgluke/poster51024968.jpg

Delivered

and the shock dust cover has the washer in it so make it's on


You serious? well theres another thing pedders neglected to put in there replacement boot kit. :(

yea thats the problem put the old one back in

looks like that shock has a case of the mondays

Ok so I'm big enough to admit when I'm wrong. Heres the dealo the original duct boots have a washer built into the top of them, hence it doesnt get a mention in the manual and you dont notice it when you pull apart the old shock. On the other hand the pedders replacements don't, they have an extra washer that needs to be added (which doesnt get a mention in the manual). I believe these kits are just ment for use by the pedders mechanics so they dont include instructions.

On the plus side i'm now the subject of a fail pic so i guess my internet life is complete. I can also now remove a first gen rear shock in about 3 minutes.

thats good

Ok so I'm big enough to admit when I'm wrong. Heres the dealo the original duct boots have a washer built into the top of them, hence it doesnt get a mention in the manual and you dont notice it when you pull apart the old shock. On the other hand the pedders replacements don't, they have an extra washer that needs to be added (which doesnt get a mention in the manual). I believe these kits are just ment for use by the pedders mechanics so they dont include instructions.

On the plus side i'm now the subject of a fail pic so i guess my internet life is complete. I can also now remove a first gen rear shock in about 3 minutes.

You and yann89's handles are in a league of there own! be proud man, be proud