My Auto Transmission was due for a service anyway, but a possible slip once (not sure) and a slight 'flaring' going into 3rd made me do it quickly.
The Auto Transmission mechanic said it was flaring when changing into 3rd. He did the usual transmission service including nice new oil (and an additive?). It seems to have help a bit but not 100%.
His advise was to bring it back in and he'd have to take it out to start the investigation into what was wrong. (Sounds like big $$$ to me :cry:)

My Questions...

1. Has anyone had a similar issue with their auto's and what was the fix/cost.

2. Is the 5 speed tippy in the Ralliart any different to other Magna transmissions.
- The AT Mechanic said it looked different. I thought it was the same as other Magna's so I started to get concerned if this guy new what he was talking about (not that I know any better). Otherwise he seemed ok.
- If a complete rebuild is required I may need to consider a change-over (hence the need to know if it's the same).

3. If a full rebuild was required now or later (if ever), then I may consider a Manual Conversion? Would there be anything different in doing a Manual Conversion to a Ralliart?



Fingers crossed that this is just a small mechanical fix and not a big $$$ event. :pray:

mine was flaring on the upshift into third, however a fluid flush fixed it. I would make sure your auto tranny guy used the correct fluid, as that has been known to cause problems. outside of that, it sounds like the tranny might be on it's way out.

I really can't imagine that the 5 speed auto in the Ralliart is any different to the 5 speed autos in VR-X, Sports or GTVi. I don't have my manual with me, so I can't check for sure.

also, the manual conversion would be the same as any other car, except for the diff. I would recommend grabbing an LSD if you go down this route.

cheers,
.wook

Yeah, I don't think the 5 speed auto is any diffrerent in the Ralliart man. The manual is only different in the diff like wookiee said as it's an LSD.

Are you handy with a spanner? Even if not, try and find the time to get a user/service manual and have a go at the gearbox oil yourself - it's really not that hard. Make sure you use genuine Mitsubishi oil. If your mechanic hasen't used genuine Mitsubishi transmission fluid, your gearbox will likely get worse, not better.

Isn't the 2nd to 3rd flaring problem pretty common?

From what I've read on this forum, the tranny flush followed by training the transmission properly (guides on here, search for it, post by Lugo I think) can sort out the issue.

I think the only different auto was the AWD one.

the gearbox is the same, it is the ecu that is different i think??? Just upgraded shift changes. i asked a mits mechanic about it, and he said if you got one you would not know the differance.

It is common, and there are currently a few threads on this topic. Once again I cleaned mine twice within 20000kms and added a tranny cooler. Haven't the problem for more than 30000km...and it was bad for flaring

Thanks for the response guys.
I'll have a search for the 'retraining' thread later tonight.
Will also change the oil again like Magtone suggested.

I also spoke with a trusted local mechanic today (my son works at his garage sometimes).
He gave me an Auto Transmission guy to call - said he may be able to do some diagnostics without taking the tranny out/apart. Worth a shot.

It's not bad, I just don't want to do any further damage.

How many kilometers does the transmission have?

Could be the heat? mines slipping at full throttle now and flares at full rpm changes, but didnt 2months ago.

Follow the steps on the attached diagram, should solve your problem mate :)

I have a really bad jolt from 2nd to 3rd after disconnecting the battery but after 200 - 250 km's of driving its really smooth:confused: ... I have had the tranny flushed at the local mitsu and they also added a Lucus transmission stuff to prolong the transsmission

There's lots of info in this thread too...
http://aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61592

I haven't tried the re-learn process myself yet but may also look into getting Mitsu to look at it and maybe do their stuff.

Quote from the above linked thread...
Guys.
Take it to mitso and ask the relearn be carried out using the MUT-II.... take it for a test drive before you pay for it...costs $66
I've done mine a couple of times after battery disconnects and it's absolutely perfect... no flaring, low rpm upshifts... just stunning...best thing I have ever done... and I'll continue to do it...
As a side benefit... you'll use less fuel.... I was seeing 1.5L/100k change for the better.
If you attempt the relearn by your self it takes ages...