hey guys!

today taking of from the lights after a few days drving up and down highways, i took of and the car started clunking, like it was falling out out of gear. this happened the other day as well for the first time. im thinking gearbox, what do you guys think? there was no fluctuating revs, the car drove normally afterwards, and only clunked twice. any mor einfo needed let me know. i have a TH auto if this helps

thanks mike

Did it fall outa gear???
Car still drives normal yeah???

Sounds like an engine mount... the make noises like that when taking off and when you change gears


Steve

the other thing was when, i was driving at 100, and put my foot down to over take, most the time drops back to second this time it went to third instead, so i pulled it back into second and it felt like it slipped back out.

so you rekon check engine mounts?

the other thing was when, i was driving at 100, and put my foot down to over take, most the time drops back to second this time it went to third instead, so i pulled it back into second and it felt like it slipped back out.

so you rekon check engine mounts?

Did the RPM go up like it does when it's in second?? or did it just FEEL like it slipped out??

Basically what I'm asking... clunking aside... does the car drive normally?? changes gears properly and generally like it did before the clunking.....??

Most times when it makes noises when taking off or when kicking down gears it's engine mounts.... they can make the most terrible noises.....feels like the car is gonna fall apart....

If you drive around gently does it still make the clunking noise???

If it is quiet when driving gently... then check your mounts... common issue.... especially when a car has had a fair amount of spirited driving and also from the age of the car...

Grab the engine in a good spot where you can get a really good grip... and shake it front to back.... rock it front to back....a few times....(I did this on mine... and the Missus Mazda Tribute) no one else found the prob.... after $250 at the Mazda dealer.....:nuts:
If it makes the noise 99% chance it's the mounts....

Steve

or lift your bonnet in your driveway, with your brakes on just load the engine up in forward and reverse. Get someone to watch the engine and see if it moves.

i had a look at the mounts and couldnt see any damage, but i didnt grab hold of it because the engine was a bit hot. i have also had a suggestion to get the bearings checked as well, what do you think? the car is booked in for a service next friday, gopt any suggestions what i should get looked at whilst there. the problem is getting worse, happened a few times today after not occuring for a while.

I have also noticed that when this problem occures afterwards there seems to be a alck of power. spoken to a few people, they dont think its an engine or gearbox problem persay, as car drives fine 90% of the time. we determined that its when the car sits there for a whilst and revs drop a bit below idle, causeing it to be very rough, and when i drive of its like its driving with less cylinders or dirty spark plugs or something, and the clunking is everything shaking and the car trying to drive, does this make sense?

im gunna put my money on faulty plug or lead..

im gunna put my money on faulty plug or lead..
:stoopid:

When was the last time you changed all your plugs and leads?

well iv got the car in for a service they cant find anything wrong with it, they have checked the gear box all ok. they are checking the spark plugs, which is costing me an arm in labour to just check, damn i wish had time to do it myself. if its not the spark plugs anymore suggestion whilst car is sitting there. as i cant drive it anywhere, 95% of the time now leaving the lights the car shudders vigourusly, and there is no power at this point, then once im moving most of the time it is ok, although it is starting to occur whilst driving as well this morning.

HELP ME please

Plugs or leads, probably leads.

aparently mits are useing a computer to check everything, then they are going to take plenum of and check plugs and air leaks. does this sound right?

edit: just found the work sheet from jully new platnums were put on in jully.

they might have cracked the porcellian of a plug putting it in, causing it to miss fire?

they couldnt find anything wrong with it! the said the O2 sensor was all over the place but thats it, they did a basic service and a brake fluid flush. for some reason un for scene the car drove fine all the way home ( touch wood). although i was slightly pissed that the backed the fuel pressue of to 40 when i had it set to 50, and my avg fuel before going there was 10.4, now it is 24.3. not happy jan. anywho, hopefully it is fixed, as when driving there this morning and driving last night the problem occured everytime i drove of from the lights.

be amusing if your car was developing the second gen shudder after all the work you put into it. actually no wouldnt be funny at all. worst part is if it is this then theres apparently no easy solution.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51499

Hi guys

I started to experience occasional transmission clunking noises in my 91 TR manual a few months ago :cry:

Seemed to be mainly when accelerating/decelerating, then on cornering, and gradually getting worse. Really noticeable on the drivers side, and could feel it through the steering wheel and dash. Sounded like serious transmission trouble on the way.
Tried everything I could think of, steering/suspension joints, engine mounts, subframe, exhaust mounts, loose fittings, springs, struts. Even swapped the strut assemblies from left to right. Couldn't find anything or get rid of the clunking:confused:

Finally convinced myself it was probably some sort of weird CV joint fault so went to CV Joint Clinic.
After driving the machine they said definitely not a joint problem but they had a good idea what was causing it and they were on the money.

The problem was the through bolt on the front roll stopper, that's the front engine mount. Even though it was torqued up as spec it can be insufficient to stop the 8mm bolt shifting about in the 10mm hole and causing all this drama. So it was given some mega-torque and problem solved. No more clunks, drives sweet as :D

They told me that the prime suspects for this problem are the front and rear roll stopper through bolts, the fixing bolts ( which can snap off/fracture the block if loose :shock: ), and the drive shaft nuts.

And the hero of this story is CV Joint Clinic, Wangara, WA. Very helpful and knowledgable :D

ok guys, its back with avengence, there is no power when it occurs, large shuttering and huge clunking, im waiting till it cools and going to check for air leaks, any special techniques people use?

edit: mitso said its the computer, so i have booked it in for a retune at intune performance. they also do mechanical work so they might be able to help if the tuning doesnt work out.

just had a look at the car, cant find any air leaks, but the leads still have 1999 stamped on them, im thinking it may or may not be them, but i will replace them anyway, any suggestions on any brand or just go standard. my radiator hose looks like it is stretching alot, and is the original as well by the looks of it, any suggestions for this one as well?

just had a look at the car, cant find any air leaks, but the leads still have 1999 stamped on them, im thinking it may or may not be them, but i will replace them anyway, any suggestions on any brand or just go standard. my radiator hose looks like it is stretching alot, and is the original as well by the looks of it, any suggestions for this one as well?
After all this time and everyone who's told you to change leads, you still haven't done it? :doubt:

I'll put $10 on leads.

After all this time and everyone who's told you to change leads, you still haven't done it? :doubt:

I'll put $10 on leads.

thats because i got mitsi to have a look and they rekon they are ok!

but because of you guys, i second guessed them, and found out they are the original

thats because i got mitsi to have a look and they rekon they are ok!

but because of you guys, i second guessed them, and found out they are the original
I always go by the rule that Mitsubishi don't know a friggen thing about their own cars. Served me well so far.

I always go by the rule that Mitsubishi don't know a friggen thing about their own cars. Served me well so far.

To add to this;

Just remember that it is likely the guy that is working on your car either doesn't really give a **** about it, or he is an apprentice or the like, so may not know what he is looking for. Never assume that just because the mechanics work for a big company, that they are in any way competent.

I always go by the rule that Mitsubishi don't know a friggen thing about their own cars. Served me well so far.

lol

As for the radiator hose, go to supercheap or the like, and look for a radiator hose labelled for you car. (eg TE V6 magna). May as well replace both hoses while you are at it, if you give them a good hard squeeze and you can feel any kind of crunching its time to replace anyway. And for good measure, and considering the cost, I usually replace the thermostat and gasket too.

Think my leads are original too, and cylinders are starting to cut out a lot when running on gas. Bit strange, like yours, sometimes its fine, and then on another drive it rarely seems to run properly on all cylinders. Ive ordered some new NGK Iridium IX spark plugs, and some Eagle Elminator spiral core leads, which ive been told will only be $57 posted for my car. Much cheaper than bosch from memory, and they are supposed to be very good quality leads.

Check out http://www.noelsautoparts.com.au/eagle.htm for more info on them, some googling found many good reviews.

Ollie

just cos the leads are old doesn't mean they are crap. But, mitsi should have checked them.I checked all of my leads for resistance after i broke one. thought i would replace the lot. car had done 110000km and showed little or no resistance differance between old and new leads....waste of money. should have only done one lead.

my car has done 177K if this helps at all

O2 sensor did similar things on my old TF. Spluttering, clunking and at times an engine stall. Unplug the o@ and drive around for a couple days see if it still does it.

my O2 is supposed to be disconnected, since last year, unless someone has connected it again.

noone has bosch leads, they gotta order them in and it wont be here till next week. i got a radiator hose on order as well, it will be here tomorrow. the car is staying in the garage now until the tune shop next week, as i hardly got up the driveway, due to spluttering, half stalling, and back firing or banging (not sure).

well i took the manifold of, changed over the leads, emptied the top tank on the radiator, replaced the radiator hose and had a look into the plenum, man it was dirty, what ever sealant or what ever was used, had heated up and gone into the plenum. cleaned it up, going to put it back together tomorrow, i dont know if it will fix it or not, because the injectors might already be stuffed. i will post up pics tomorrow.

thanks for your help

mike

well put everything back together, turned the diel up a bit from 600 to 800, although when i first start it, it sits at 1100 for quite some time. anyways the car is no longer back firing or clunking, although there is a small amount of spluttering or misfiring, but this might be due to a problem in the mapping. as it only happens when speeding up on light acceleration. i also put some injector cleaner in the tank as well, to clean the injectors.

well the moody b**** is back firing everytime now (through the pod filter), and misfiring when im driving as well at revs below 3 thousand. any more suggestions??? this is driving me nuts. what stuff do i spray into the engine back to pick up air leaks. im not sure what to do, its going to the tuners on thursday and not sure if they will be able to do anything with it like this.

thanks mike

edit: im just looking through some old threads, with people having similar problems, this MAF sensor is the black look box right next to the pod filter right? to clean the plug do i just pull it out? or am i missing something

edit: i just unplugged it, it was clean as a whistle

ok guys i took it to the tuners, and they found out that, the car was running so lean that it could of melted my pistons or damaged them at the least. He now has added fuel although he says there is still a blockage or an air leak, but i cant find it. the only things i havent done is check the injectors or the fuel filter. i basically got rid of the shuddering, and everything else but its still backfiring through the pod. benny at the cruise suggested last night, that the timing is retarded, how hard is that to change?

can anyone help me?

Timing is something your tuner should of seen and fixed. I'd be replacing the fuel filter and sussing out your injectors. If your engine isn't getting enough fuel, it might be time to upgrade the injectors anyway.

Are they hard to replace? i looked in the manual and it said something about decompressurizing the fuel or something. and any recomended brands and sizes for me, i have no idea. idk if this helps in this matter but future mods, will be manual, 10.1 pistons, street fighter manifold, and stronger conrods and probably a full ecu.

I've never done injectors or fuel filter myself, but I don't think the fuel filter is hard. To me it really sounds like you're getting dicked around mate - it if were me, I'd be taking it to whoever my tuner was and telling him to fix whatever is wrong with the car. I mean, he nearly fried your engine with a terribly lean tune, now he can't even find what's wrong with your car and fix it? Do you pay this guy money?

well originally it went to rpw, now i dont know if he tuned it lean, i doubt it, i think it was tuned, now this blockage has occured, and is causing the car to run the way it is. then after all the changes i made last w/e, i took it to intune performance because they could take me straight away, and they were able to determine the air fuel ratios. they suggested check the fuel filter and the injectors, but said they wont do it because they only do big jobs worth money and tuning. so now my car is working better but the problem is still happening and because im on contract break for work i cant afford to pay a mechanic right now.

well originally it went to rpw, now i dont know if he tuned it lean, i doubt it, i think it was tuned, now this blockage has occured, and is causing the car to run the way it is. then after all the changes i made last w/e, i took it to intune performance because they could take me straight away, and they were able to determine the air fuel ratios. they suggested check the fuel filter and the injectors, but said they wont do it because they only do big jobs worth money and tuning. so now my car is working better but the problem is still happening and because im on contract break for work i cant afford to pay a mechanic right now.
So what you're telling me is RPW installed a bunch of mods then tuned your car. Your car starts running like crap, you take it to somewhere else to get looked at because RPW are too busy (?) Now you still have all these problems and your car runs like a busted nutsack. Is that about right?

So what you're telling me is RPW installed a bunch of mods then tuned your car. Your car starts running like crap, you take it to somewhere else to get looked at because RPW are too busy (?) Now you still have all these problems and your car runs like a busted nutsack. Is that about right?

hahaha lol well when you put it like that. rpw put the mods in Jully, problem started approximately one month ago. i went to intune performance because they were recomended to me and i wanted to see if there was any other good tuners in perth, instead of just relying on dave. so i dont know if it was as a result of the mods, or just something blocking up.

hahaha lol well when you put it like that. rpw put the mods in Jully, problem started approximately one month ago. i went to intune performance because they were recomended to me and i wanted to see if there was any other good tuners in perth, instead of just relying on dave. so i dont know if it was as a result of the mods, or just something blocking up.
Right. Well where I come from, when a performance shop does work on my car, IF any problems arise, I take it back to where I got it tuned and seek a resolution. If it's something minor then I wouldn't expect to get charged for it. Likewise if it's something that's been caused due to a crap tune (which in your case is likely) I wouldn't expect to pay for anything, and would let them know I was livid about it and give them a chance to redeem themselves.

Honestly mate, take it back to RPW. Explain the problems and give old mate a chance to fix your car. He's supposed to be a Mitsubishi expert, so he should bloody well know what's going on.

Right. Well where I come from, when a performance shop does work on my car, IF any problems arise, I take it back to where I got it tuned and seek a resolution. If it's something minor then I wouldn't expect to get charged for it. Likewise if it's something that's been caused due to a crap tune (which in your case is likely) I wouldn't expect to pay for anything, and would let them know I was livid about it and give them a chance to redeem themselves.

Honestly mate, take it back to RPW. Explain the problems and give old mate a chance to fix your car. He's supposed to be a Mitsubishi expert, so he should bloody well know what's going on.

I will when i get the money to, but im trying to eliminate as many things as possible, without spending to much money. well thanks for your help and tips.

edit: does anyone know much about fuel filters and injectors?

I will when i get the money to, but im trying to eliminate as many things as possible, without spending to much money. well thanks for your help and tips.

edit: does anyone know much about fuel filters and injectors?
:doubt: What I'm trying to say is he should look at the thing for you for free if he's tuned it and you've spent a shed load of your hard earned there! He should be able to pinpoint the problem for you and offer a resolution - from there it's up to you how to fix it. All you're doing atm is spending money you may not need to without knowing what's wrong with your car.

It's a bit like if I took a bandage and wrapped up my whole arm, but it turns out I have stomach ulcers.

:doubt: What I'm trying to say is he should look at the thing for you for free if he's tuned it and you've spent a shed load of your hard earned there! He should be able to pinpoint the problem for you and offer a resolution - from there it's up to you how to fix it. All you're doing atm is spending money you may not need to without knowing what's wrong with your car.

It's a bit like if I took a bandage and wrapped up my whole arm, but it turns out I have stomach ulcers.

lol yeh i know what your saying. I spoke to him and he said he can take it for a drive anytime and have a look at it, and give me a rough idea on what it could be, but to do mechanical work i gotta wait two weeks.

I dont know if this helps, but yesterday i drove the car in drive, and it shuddering once, and there was no misfiring, but as soon as i use tippy mode, and use engine brakes to stop, this is when the backfiring starts to get worse. any ideas?

mike

I dont know if this helps, but yesterday i drove the car in drive, and it shuddering once, and there was no misfiring, but as soon as i use tippy mode, and use engine brakes to stop, this is when the backfiring starts to get worse. any ideas?

mike
Yeah - TAKE IT TO THE ***** MECHANIC.

Yeah - TAKE IT TO THE ***** MECHANIC.

hahaha i will when i have money!

but im just trying to get ideas and see if i can look at it my self.