Whats the go with them? Why are they so much better? Tried to search but couldn't find a good explanation

I upgraded the stock speakers to Pioneer 6's but I don't think the front stage is good enough, Seeing as its mainly what I will hear I want it to be better

Will these splits be any better than I currently have? and How much better?

Also although I'm a massive Pioneer ***** I am open to suggestions for anything better within the 200 dollar range!

Cheers

See the speakers here (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=927926&postcount=490)

Splits are beneficial because you have a seperate speaker for midrange and one for high end, 2 speakers work better than 1. Decent sets will usually have a crossover as well, so midrange can be tuned not to output any high, and the opposite for the tweeter. High frequencies are also directional, so you can benefit from having the tweeter pointed towards you up at face level, can't be done with a pair of coax's in the door.

Pioneer splits aren't the way I'd go for $200, something like JL Audio splits would be much better for that price. I'm going to PM you somewhere in a moment thats got some good JL Splits on clearance for $199 you might like to take advantage of :)

I picked up my Focal Access1 Splits (165 A1) for $219, for the money I dont think they can be beaten. Here (http://www.focalaustralia.com.au/pictures/access.htm)

Sweet

Checking my PM's now

So these JL Splits will sound miles above what I got?

Focal, I've heard good things!

Wether they sound good or bad is dependent on the ear listening!,what Lugo likes you may hate and vice versa,thats why its good to have a listen to a demo board,some splits are dull and some are extremely harsh and "bright" in the tweeter area,although if you havent got an ear for good sound,listening to people in the knows opinion isnt a bad thing!

Steve

Miles better?

Probably not, maybe a noticeable difference.

All depends on if you're running these off your deck, or through an amp. I've heard good co-ax speakers, for tighter budgets they arnt too bad.

It all really depends on how much you really love your music (or as some would put it, your budget).

Also, what Steevo said - I dont believe there's really such a thing as a 'crap' speaker for the $200-$500 mark. It all depends on your taste, some are better, some are worse. The key to the best sound isnt how much money you can throw at components, its how you set them up.

My setup, although not the best (still working on it) has probably 1/3rd - 1/2 of my 'budget' on the set up (dynamat, MDF install, wiring etc).

Splits are beneficial because you have a seperate speaker for midrange and one for high end, 2 speakers work better than 1. Decent sets will usually have a crossover as well, so midrange can be tuned not to output any high, and the opposite for the tweeter. High frequencies are also directional, so you can benefit from having the tweeter pointed towards you up at face level, can't be done with a pair of coax's in the door.
Coaxial speakers are still technically two speakers, they just use a capacitor to separate the signals given to each speaker cone. Component speakers (splits) are generally a woofer and tweeter with a passive crossover. Generally they produce better quality sound due to the crossover, and have larger cone surfaces due to not being restricted to the one housing.

plenty of coaxial speakers come with a crossover, its a common misconception that they dont. the only real bonus of splits vs coax is the movability of the tweeter. if you were to get exactly the same speaker, 1 in coax, 1 in split version, this is all it is.

the big plus that seems to steer people towards splits is the range of choice you have compared to coax's.

plenty of coaxial speakers come with a crossover, its a common misconception that they dont. the only real bonus of splits vs coax is the movability of the tweeter.

True. The main Advantage is raising the sound stage closer to ear level.

I picked up my Focal Access1 Splits (165 A1) for $219, for the money I dont think they can be beaten. Here (http://www.focalaustralia.com.au/pictures/access.htm)
Ive heard these and some Lower range JL"s
Go the focals...

plenty of coaxial speakers come with a crossover, its a common misconception that they dont. the only real bonus of splits vs coax is the movability of the tweeter. if you were to get exactly the same speaker, 1 in coax, 1 in split version, this is all it is.

the big plus that seems to steer people towards splits is the range of choice you have compared to coax's.
The only coaxial speaker I know of with a built in crossover (rather puny really..) is in the Focal range. I'd imagine some upper spec coaxials in other brands may have them, but why bother when you could have a nice pair of component speakers :)

i have splits and to me it sounds heaps better...and as a few have mention i would go with JL splits aswell

A suggestion... If you could extend your budget to $250-$300 you could widen your range hugely... to brands like Hertz, Morel, Boston etc all of which are quite nice and around your price range. And not pioneer crap :P

For $200 and under one of the best value for money splits are the Jaycar CS2329. Retail at $149.

The only coaxial speaker I know of with a built in crossover (rather puny really..) is in the Focal range. I'd imagine some upper spec coaxials in other brands may have them, but why bother when you could have a nice pair of component speakers :)

Soundstream have seperate crossovers aswell for their upper range coax speakers.

Works quite well for my rear fill.

Soundstream have seperate crossovers aswell for their upper range coax speakers.

Works quite well for my rear fill.
I've only heard 1 set of Soundstream splits, but damn the Soundstream range of amps(Tarrantula anyone???) and subwoofers kick ass, hard!

(back when I was 18(1998, yes im getting old!) I had 2x 12" rubicon subs running off a pair of Altec2500 amps, I managed to crack my own windscreen! Particular bass note in a Boyz 2 Men song called River Runs Dry, must be like 30hz).
Luke

Rofl at Boyz 2 Men cracking your windscreen! :bowrofl:

2 rubi's certainly could not crack your windscreen. musta had a rock flick up and hit it at the same time as the bass note or something because it wasnt the dee bee's.

2 rubi's certainly could not crack your windscreen. musta had a rock flick up and hit it at the same time as the bass note or something because it wasnt the dee bee's.
I beg to differ it was in my old KE Laser sedan.

Any sub can crack a windscreen, just need a strong arm and a nice sturdy box.....

haha.. was gonna say.. it would work if the sub was leaning against it slapping it with the magnet or something.. but no, the sound alone wouldnt come even slightly close to cracking a windscreen..

tis quite odd how all of the 150+ dB cars my mates run.. none have yet cracked a windscreen.. actually i lie, 1 guy cracked his but we suspect he did it some other way and tried giving his subs credit for it.

to start with, pressure will escape through the easiest path, when you start to get REALLY loud, you will notice that your doors start slightly flapping in and out with the pressure.. and when it gets beyond that.. before the window will crack, the windscreen seal will let go and you will end up with air leaks + water getting in. louder still, the windscreen will pop out.. then it will get cracked, when it lands on your bonnet :)

Woob it just sounds cooler when you say your sub broke XYZ though......:cool:

yar :) there was an indigenous bloke that did a pre-apprenticeship with me a while back, apparently his brother had 6 VR commmodores, and each one had 6 15" subs in it, and 1000W, and he turned them all on at the same time and blew the back window out of all of them :D

haha.. was gonna say.. it would work if the sub was leaning against it slapping it with the magnet or something.. but no, the sound alone wouldnt come even slightly close to cracking a windscreen..


Stop lieing Woob, in my brothers mirage we cracked his front windscreen with a Cadence UD12 ( yes the orange ones ) in a ported box and 450WRMS.... * removes rocks from bonnet * honest man it was the sub :redface: lol

I love internet stories. If you want to SEE what some serious woofers can do with the windows down, look at this. And yes I only have one in my car.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJPgXybJqdE

I think two 12's could help break a KE's windscreen.

KE laser windscreen's arnt as strong as current windscreens, if it had a small crack from a rock before - vibration *could* make this crack spread and widen.

Charisma - ROE is awesome.

hmmm maybe some do. but as if I give a rats ass if you believe me or not?
I have nothing to prove, I say it happened it happened, you dont agree tough ****.

lol

hmmm maybe some do. but as if I give a rats ass if you believe me or not?
I have nothing to prove, I say it happened it happened, you dont agree tough ****.

lol
wtf's your problem..

']wtf's your problem..
ummm nothing to do with you dude.
comments from other members in this thread re my posts man.

Damn, you must have the sexciest looking magna engine bay I eva seen!!

This went off topic fast :P

at least AMC is consistent in their off topic changingness :)

True!

But I never thought about Subs breaking windows, you learn something everyday

Another thing, Didn't want to make a new thread:

Currently just have a Pioneer deck that is advertised to put out 50 watts x 4 which is 22 RMS?

If I got a sub and monoblock would this work with the current set up? Or would the sub outpower everything else

Currently just have a Pioneer deck that is advertised to put out 50 watts x 4 which is 22 RMS?

If I got a sub and monoblock would this work with the current set up? Or would the sub outpower everything else
50w is the peak power output, which translates to 20-22w RMS, that's pretty standard for a headunit amplifier. A sub and mono should work fine, just don't get yourself a 1000w RMS Sub and Amp, I personally currently run a single Pioneer sub at 150w RMS and its fine with the stock speakers running off the headunit. Nemesis is driving 300w RMS to a pair of Clarion subs coupled with the stock speakers and they're only slightly overpowering on bassy tracks.

If you want an idea we can meet up sometime and you can have a listen to mine before I pull it out, might give you an idea :)

True!

But I never thought about Subs breaking windows, you learn something everyday

Another thing, Didn't want to make a new thread:

Currently just have a Pioneer deck that is advertised to put out 50 watts x 4 which is 22 RMS?

If I got a sub and monoblock would this work with the current set up? Or would the sub outpower everything else

150W Like Rhys said would be enough, any more then that and you will drown out the power from the headunit.

Then again, if you get something small to make a bit of bass, you'll just get a taste for it, and want to buy bigger and better things..

True!

But I never thought about Subs breaking windows, you learn something everyday

Another thing, Didn't want to make a new thread:

Currently just have a Pioneer deck that is advertised to put out 50 watts x 4 which is 22 RMS?

If I got a sub and monoblock would this work with the current set up? Or would the sub outpower everything else

Between 17-22wrms.

It could blend in, just not a 1000wrms sub, perhaps 200wrms 10" with gains turned down to match.

It really depends on the unit. If you have a variable HPF built into the source, you will much better success with running a more powerful woofer set up. Although you wont need a lot of power out of a bass system, just get an amp with a remote gain control - best of both worlds. :D