After cutting/shaving/grinding my brake disk protectors (thin metal things) off the other day when painting my calipers, I am now having problems with my ABS.

If I take the car over about 120km/h the ABS warning light will come on and deactivate the ABS until I stop and turn the car off and then on again. This happens with hot or cold brakes.

ABS still works (ie wheels won't lock up) if I don't take it above that speed, but they will lock after the light comes on.

I had the calipers and front rotors off, pretty sure everything is back on and okay again, and I don't think I bumped any of the ABS speed sensors when I was cutting the brake disk protectors (mostly done by hand with tin snips)

That day I also installed bump stops on the front shocks, and my brother mistakenly pulled the inner CV joint out on the right hand side, ripping the boot. We just pushed it back into the joint, but the outer boot has also managed to rip itself sometime on Monday and throw out grease everywhere (Probably flying down the freeway). Should I just get my hands on 2 new boots and re-grease the joints? I haven't worked on front suspension on a FWD car before so learning as I go here. I am a bit worried because while cornering the right CV joint sounded like it was on its way out this week (its never had a problem till now).

Thanks for your help in advance

when i had my cv boot rip, it was easier to get a second hand reconditioned drive shaft.
the joint has been exposed to wear, as it was driven without any grease in it. i just gave them the old drive shaft, and they gave me the reconditioned one, fairly cheap.
fixing the boots, is a figity job.

O crap, that sounds expensive. So do you think by
Lol, might be time to hack apart this EI of mine :badgrin:

Second that with getting a re-conditioned exchange drive shaft. The few extra dollars will save hours of grief and swearing. Last time I had one replaced was a few years ago on the old car (Pulsar SSS) and it was $160 fitted, with 12 month warranty. Before that I did it myself :cry: (with a replacement boot) and after taking out the oil seal in the gear box ended up costing me over $300. There are a few specialised CV places around Sydney, shop around.

RE the ABS might (possiblilty) be a dirty sensor? with all that grease flying around?

best of luck.

O crap, that sounds expensive. So do you think by driving it this week I've ****ed it?

Lol, might be time to hack apart this EI of mine :badgrin:


i drove around for 3 months with split boots... they still had greese in em, and only done 70thousand k's. put some new boots on and they are fine. BUT i had no noises proir to the rebooting. if youve got a knock then replace the whole shaft.

EDIT: how did you cut the cover on the brakes? if you used a grinder then the little bits of metal could be stuck to the magnet causing the error.

New CV shafts will set you back up to $600 fitted (pair). Thats for a 3rd Gen, 2nd Gen may be a little less. For re-co'ed units its a bit cheaper.

Wouldnt bother with doing the CV boot, as you have to take the shaft out anyway (unless you enjoy laying on your back for a couple hours on cement lol) So, while you're there, you might aswell replace the whole thing.

More bloody expenses. I will see if I can regrease it and see how it goes, I am not sure if its a 'I'm broken' knock or just a 'I need grease because I have no boot' knock. It was only really faint.

I suppose I can't just pull out the shafts from the other Verada then can I?


EDIT: how did you cut the cover on the brakes? if you used a grinder then the little bits of metal could be stuck to the magnet causing the error.

I only used the grinder a little bit on one, but I will give all of the sensors a good clean this afternoon and see if that helps

i've done the cv boots on my last car, my girlfirends car and my dads TF. I hate doing the bloddy things especially the inners. Boot kits are around $50rrp , but i got both sides for $30 (thats boots,grese and a clip thingy:D )

i've done the cv boots on my last car, my girlfirends car and my dads TF. I hate doing the bloddy things especially the inners. Boot kits are around $50rrp , but i got both sides for $30 (thats boots,grese and a clip thingy:D )

From Repco etc. I'm guessing?

From Repco etc. I'm guessing?

na mate, it was from a cv bloke hear in orange a mate of mine is friends with him :D

Ok guys MAJOR PROBLEMS HERE

I took off, degreased, wire brushed and pressure washed the ABS sensors, cleaned them up good. Did this on both sides of the front.

NOW EVERY TIME I PUT MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE OVER 20KM/HR ABS ACTIVATES!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am not sure if ABS is independent of each wheel, but it seems to be the front left that is the culprit

I have tried resetting the ECU, no luck

WHAT DO I DO?>???????

Please help!

Pull the ABS fuse until you can sort the problem out.

Pull the ABS fuse until you can sort the problem out.

Thanks, thought of that as a temporary measure but what the hell could I have done wrong?

Anyone else had this problem before?

Does the ABS sensor look damaged at all? Is there any dirt or metal dust sticking to it?

Could be a million things man, I'm learning about this stuff at work now and yeah with the aid of the diagnostics machine its MUCH more simpler.
Is there anything in the haynes manual for troubleshooting?

Does the ABS sensor look damaged at all? Is there any dirt or metal dust sticking to it?

No I cleaned all that crap off, Im over at the shed now so I'll put the car back up on the jackstands and try and see what the problem is :rant: :rant: I wanted to go out toinght.

@Tufftr Havn't looked yet, will do now

No I cleaned all that crap off, Im over at the shed now so I'll put the car back up on the jackstands and try and see what the problem is :rant: :rant: I wanted to go out tonight.

@Tufftr Havn't looked yet, will do now

Ahhhhh see now your a true magna owner! having a car you want to drive but cant

lol....

Manual says "If you have problems with your ABS take it to a specialist"

Great :cry:

Use the hand brake.... that shouldnt make the ABS light come on..... haha:bowrofl:

Use the hand brake.... that shouldnt make the ABS light come on..... haha:bowrofl:

:upyours:

The light is no longer coming on..... just the front left sensor thinks its locking up.....

Oh and I found out in the manual the front two brakes are independent and the back ones are controlled as a pair

:upyours:



Thats not very ladylike now is it luv....:bowrofl:

:upyours:

The light is no longer coming on..... just the front left sensor thinks its locking up.....

Oh and I found out in the manual the front two brakes are independent and the back ones are controlled as a pair

3 channel ABS!
Take it to Mitsu man, probably logged a fault or something like and needs to be cleared best case

It's a bit of a long shot, but you might be best off visiting a pick-a-part wrecker and getting a new sensor from a wreck.

I think I worked it out guys

Taking it for a test drive now

I think I worked it out guys

Taking it for a test drive now

Your funny
within like 15 minutes youve managed to fix your abs and post on amc every single time about it, addicted much

im trying to get help here.

Has anyone else played with their ABS before?

It seems the sensor was too far away from the spline that it reads off.

I am now trying to get the sensor as close to the spline as possible without it rubbing, but it still doesn't seem to be working :cry: Brakes are still going into ABS spastic mode

The two bolts to the right adjust the distance between the sensor and the spline

The left one does the angle of the sensor

I am trying to get it as close as possible without touching, any other ideas?

http://gallery.me.com/peter.moriarty/100004/photo1223637289983/web.jpg

Not much help but thanks for that pic, now I know what the ABS sensor looks like. After getting my gas conversion my ABS light is on and doesnt function. They are going to fix it at the free service, but I might have a squiz myself.

Ollie

Since noone else has asked, why did you bother touching the heat shields? seems to be the cause of the ABS woes in the first place.

As for CV's do it once do it right just get reco ones from any decent auto/CZV shop will save money in the long term.

']Ahhhhh see now your a true magna owner! having a car you want to drive but cant
Correction...

A true second gen magna owner :P


PP, I know you're probably doing it for the penny saving and to learn a bit yourself, however when it comes to break problems I would really consult a specialist, because if it's done wrong, you're putting your and other peoples lives on the line.

Mmmmm yeah I'm taking it to my mechanic tomorrow I've decided. I've had enough fiddling.

In the time I've spent f*cking around with it tonight I could have made the money to pay someone else to fix it.

CV's look okay and I tested them out, they don't seem to be crunching, plenty of grease in there too but they do need 2 inner boots. Will get that checked out tomorrow.

Correction...

A true second gen magna owner :P


PP, I know you're probably doing it for the penny saving and to learn a bit yourself, however when it comes to break problems I would really consult a specialist, because if it's done wrong, you're putting your and other peoples lives on the line.

Terrible spelling from a superior there :P