hey guys,

I've done a search and came up with nothing. My girlfriends 2g has this misfiring/shudder when the motor gets up to operating temperature. I've replace The Plugs and leads which has made a huge difference but it is still there. When you drive the car and you start to go up a slight hill, it will start to shudder/jerk. I've had the gearbox serviced and looked at by a transmission bloke and he was saying its more to do with the fuel system.It will start to miss when you are in any gear (R,D,L,2)but it will still do it slightly when its in park or neutral. If you put your foot down and the revs get up, it won't misfiring/shudder at all. Any ideas on what could be causing this . I was thinking of changing the fuel filter next but don't want to waste money on stuff that i don't need. The car has done 214,000 (most of the oil leaks are fixed lol) and other than that it goes like a dream. It doesn't use any oil or water at all either

I have this problem majorly that comes and goes, it s#its me to the max. I found cleaning the air filter helped and also removing my pod. The teething TR fix didn't make a difference for me.

Running 98 fuel helps to smooth it out a bit, and changing leads and plugs will help too.

Flushing the fuel system helps

I havnt changed my dizzy cap or fuel pump yet but they are next on my list

I am very interested in input from other people too!!!

it has a new air filter + it had a coolant flush and the thermostat housing gasket replaced

Same problem, I switched to BP 98 Octane premium and octane boost, now it runs fine..
Think the problem was Shell V Power was dirty fuel, or something along the lines

Check ya timing mate

']Check ya timing mate
Mine is on and off some days, and I agree with perry, it seems to be hot weather that triggers it....... would timing effect this?

Mine is on and off some days, and I agree with perry, it seems to be hot weather that triggers it....... would timing effect this?

Going by what he said (im no mechanic so mal tell me to gtfo whenever) the fuel he put in, which is much higher octane has made the car advance a few degrees and is now running right. (knock sensor)

Its not hard to check timing too, just get a timing light, + and -, whack the other lead on your number 1 cylinder spark plug lead and point the light at the crank pulley.

So id say timing might be out a few degrees enough to make it run like a pig

If astron motor, check the hall sensor plug on top of the distributor for corrosion, and check/replace distributor cap.

this might be mitsubishi specific so ill state this on turbo nissans, the knocksensor doesnt do a single thing unless the car is knocking.

It does not adjust timing, unless it registers a knock situation, which it will retard (and retard only) the igntion timing in attempt save a ringland or headgasket.

the ignition advance comes from situations like, running at WOT where the fuel and igntion maps are now running off a preset table, and not using o2 sensing feedback (commonly referred to open loop). In this table it may have extra timing dialled in for when you are at WOT and not in closed loop. The knock sensor is there to remove this extra timing if it registers a knock event.

On my nissan it will only remove 3degrees max from WOT condition if it hears a ping.

The knocksensor is not part of the closed loop operation, in that it does not give feedback to the ecu for its calculations unless for what ever reason these are wrong but it can interupt closed loop operation.

Back to subject

Things that might be causing your issue are, poor maintenance in general (sparkies, filters, oil) bad fuel, water in the fuel tank, a faulty fuel pump, bad fuel regulator, split vaccum hose especially on the fuel regulator. Low rpm and load misfires are commonly casued by vaccum leaks. Blocked fuel filter, dirty injectors, dirty MAF.

Ive got the same issue as you with my 2G and ive done all the above and all helped by either halving the effects or making them go away for half a day or 2 but the problem has returned everytime.

Im all ears for any extra advice, but my replacement car is alsmost ready so it maybe a case of to little to late to find out the real issue before i pull the engine down.

']Going by what he said (im no mechanic so mal tell me to gtfo whenever) the fuel he put in, which is much higher octane has made the car advance a few degrees and is now running right. (knock sensor)

Its not hard to check timing too, just get a timing light, + and -, whack the other lead on your number 1 cylinder spark plug lead and point the light at the crank pulley.

So id say timing might be out a few degrees enough to make it run like a pig


you also need to bridge out the timing wire to earth. i think its black and yellow on the firewall if i remember correctly. has a blanking connector plug on it.

you also need to bridge out the timing wire to earth. i think its black and yellow on the firewall if i remember correctly. has a blanking connector plug on it.

Ah yes, thank you, havent done it in a while and wont be doing it again so yeah, thanks lynel for clearing that up.

']Ah yes, thank you, havent done it in a while and wont be doing it again so yeah, thanks lynel for clearing that up.

who the f#@ks lynel. no probs dont want another second gen damaged. theres enough of them out there already.

who the f#@ks lynel. no probs dont want another second gen damaged. theres enough of them out there already.
Sorry I meant that as part of another sentence. Its ok I still love you though

Ok,
You need to start with the basics.

Check your coil and ignition module. This is a common problem on a lot of these HEI systems as they are all run by transistors these days not like the old oil filled coils. They can play up big time when hot.

If all is ok there, move onto your fuel system. Check your idle fuel pressure and your fuel flow. TPS needs to be checked also.

This is a start and if this is all good come back and we can go from there.

Had the same problem, it would come and go at random and as soon as you gave the motor some revs it would disappear.

I replaced/cleaned everything to do with spark and fuel, made no difference. Then I cleaned the plug on the maf with a tooth brush and some WD-40 fixed the problem instantly, hasn't returned.

I think the corroded/dirty connection causes the ECU to think more/less air is entering the engine, playing havoc with the fuel injection.

Im getting the same problem, but I think its the TPS, what do you guys set the TPS to,
im fitting a new one this weekend

Ive got it on 0.54v and Im getting 500kms a tank, but if I put it on 0.51v it runs better but only getting 420kms per tank but no serging will happen

thanks for the other reply guys, its a V6. i filled the tank up tonight with 98 vortex stuff and it has made no difference


Ok,
You need to start with the basics.

Check your coil and ignition module. This is a common problem on a lot of these HEI systems as they are all run by transistors these days not like the old oil filled coils. They can play up big time when hot.

If all is ok there, move onto your fuel system. Check your idle fuel pressure and your fuel flow. TPS needs to be checked also.

This is a start and if this is all good come back and we can go from there.

Ok Mal how do i check the coil and ignition module. How do i check my idle fuel presure and flow + the TPS

Damn it, got the same problem back! This thread cursed me!

You do not set the TPS to a voltage. There has been another thread in here recently that takes you to my Magna pages, the proper way to set up the TPS is there

You do not set the TPS to a voltage. There has been another thread in here recently that takes you to my Magna pages, the proper way to set up the TPS is there

I have access to a OBD scantool which it sets it up in volts, but I have always done it that way for all my cars and it works well, you can also use a mulitimeter to get the voltage reading


that earthout/brigde bit is for the ISC reset

ok a bit of an up date guys.

i replaced the coil pack yesterday + the fuel filter (i can't belive how much crap was in there), it still hasn't fixed the problem but has helped a little bit. The coil had little cracks in it. I was thinking of replacing the dizzy cap + rotor button. Is there anything else that i should check/replace??

YES!

The AFM! I am 90% sure this will be your problem!

Take the plug off and give the plug and the socket a good clean with WD40/Contact cleaner. This instantly fixed the exact same problem with my car.

i regularly clean my AFM since i have a K&N filter which uses oil for filtration and has made no difference to my situation.

2 days ago i got out the voltmeter, and checked the tps in the same fashion i used to on my Nissan (which was the correct way for the nissan) i set the 0 throttle voltage to .44v I checked on my SAFC but when my foot was at 85-95percent throttle i was getting a full 4.55v from the TPS, which inditcated WOT, after playing with it i have to press the throttle into the carpet to get 100% on the TPS, which seems better

i adjusted the idle screw, and throttle plate stop screw and the throttle cable tension (all had been played with a long time ago) Now the car doesnt miss under load at all, drives better then it has in a long time but when im at very low load, say 5% throttle (60kms on a nice flat to slightly downhill road) the car surges badly. The revs jump from 1200rpm-1500rpm in a fashion similar to an igntion cut rev limiter, very abrupt and harsh. But any more throttle and the car runs like a dram, i think it might be to do with a on/off signal its getting from the voltage being to low at idle/ intrferring with the idle switch, not 100percent sure.

I did reset the battery after all this, also my variable plenum butterfly things have been disconnected for weeks and made no change to how the car runs. seem odd it did nothing

YES!

The AFM! I am 90% sure this will be your problem!

Take the plug off and give the plug and the socket a good clean with WD40/Contact cleaner. This instantly fixed the exact same problem with my car.

ok, i have to give that a go. i was driving it today and it still does it but not as abd

ok, i have to give that a go. i was driving it today and it still does it but not as abd


Ive been making it happen and the I gave the afm a slight tap on top and it changed its tone and didnt do it again for the whole day

but my fuel pump is playing up also as when its low on fuel it will cut out if I dont slow up for the corner, Im fitting a spare evo 3 one in there once I find a manual gearbox setup

Ive been making it happen and the I gave the afm a slight tap on top and it changed its tone and didnt do it again for the whole day

but my fuel pump is playing up also as when its low on fuel it will cut out if I dont slow up for the corner, Im fitting a spare evo 3 one in there once I find a manual gearbox setup

i haven't had a look at it yet, ill give it a go on the weekend

Speaking to someone at the wreckers on the weekend with a 3L 3rd gen, He had exactly the same problem, and was swapping out his TPS, and O2 sensor. I might give that a try as well as swapping the AFM. God its nice to have a full car of parts just sitting next to the workshop :D

I had a V6 TS with the same problem. After lots of mucking around and replacing stuff, which still didn't fix it, I replaced the distributor cap. This fixed it.

Even though the distributor looked perfect it was faulty. I was later told by the service guy at Repco that he had come across this a few times before with these motors.

I had a V6 TS with the same problem. After lots of mucking around and replacing stuff, which still didn't fix it, I replaced the distributor cap. This fixed it.

Even though the distributor looked perfect it was faulty. I was later told by the service guy at Repco that he had come across this a few times before with these motors.

Well I'm going to clean the MAF plug on the weekend and see how that goes , how much for a Dizzy cap + rotor and how hard are these to change?

Kinda hard to change, takes a bit of coordination if you dont want to take the manifold off

Kinda hard to change, takes a bit of coordination if you dont want to take the manifold off

hmm, manifold is easy to take off, so i might do that

I cleaned my MAF plug with a wire brush and some WD40, and drove to the beach with a few people in the car yesterday (which was pretty hot) and had no problems at all, didn't skip a beat....... I *might* have solved my problem :D

My 96 TS V6 auto wagon has the a very similar, if not the same problem, after reading this thread, I have cleaned every connector I can find that has anything to do with air flow, injectors, coil etc.. with contact cleaner, and will check it out on the way to work this arvo. I have previously changed the fuel filter, but it made no difference.
Will this also account for the difficulty I have in starting the car? It cranks for what seems like ages before it fires. Actually it is easier to give it a crank, let it rest for a sec, crank again, rest and then it normally fires on the third attempt. I was actually starting to suspect low fuel pressure, but I have no way of testing it.
I can't really complain, the car was given to me. Just would like to get it running smoothly. Living in southern Tassie, there are lots of hills and it gets monotonous having to change back one or two gears just to get some acceleration uphill.
Thanks, any ideas would be most welcome.

Check you intake for any holes/gaps to, unmetered air will cause havoc

hey guys, i changed my intake manifold gasket over, changed my leads, my spark plugs a few months ago, and i unplugged the maff sensor that was clean as. any more suggestions?

maff sensor was clean as, and dizzy was also clean. any other help?

does anyone with a manual trans has this problem?

Yeah i had it, and as the boys stated b4, was the leads and dizzy...as Mrmacomouto said, they're kinda hard to remove/replace took me about 4 goes before it becomes cake. IMO take the manifold off, that way you've got a good excuse to clean the TB, intake manifold, intake pipes etc etc etc and CLEAN ALL THE PLUGS!! fixes more than you can imagine!

Adz

has anyone changed the intank fuel filter (its on the fuel pump)?

my mechanic thinks its got to do with fuel , he said even a dodgey fuel cap can block off too much air

Im going to fit a fuel pressure gauge to check when it happens again

has anyone changed the intank fuel filter (its on the fuel pump)?

I looked at this as an option, and am still considering it. Mitsubishi parts want $22 for the pump to tank gasket. Let us know how it goes, I planned to empty the tank, remove from vehicle and service the pump filter. A restricted flow from the tank may also explain my difficulty in starting.

I don't think it's a fuel issue.

Anyway one way to narrow it down. Unplug your maf all together (while the car is off) and see if the problem still happens. I don't recommend driving like this for two long, it's **** for fuel economy.

i replaced my maf today and it still occured. im thinking injectors are the only things left. im not looking forward to taking everything apart again.

Well after I filled my car up with petrol my secondary problem has gone all together, I think I just got a bad tank.

I changed the fuel filler cap and it hasnt done it again so I took it for a 2 hour drive with a/c on etc to make it do it and it hasnt come back at all and it felt like it had more power than normal to

it does sound weird and I laughted also when my mechanic said it to me

Well after I filled my car up with petrol my secondary problem has gone all together, I think I just got a bad tank.

mines still doing it, dosen't matter what petrol we use in it


I changed the fuel filler cap and it hasnt done it again so I took it for a 2 hour drive with a/c on etc to make it do it and it hasnt come back at all and it felt like it had more power than normal to

it does sound weird and I laughted also when my mechanic said it to me

hmmm, i might give that ago on the weekend

I possibly am on the way to a solution to this issue. I cleaned a few connectors the other day, and couldn't work out why it ran worse afterwards. Turned out that I had left the hose from the rear rocker cover to air intake off. Oops.
I have a leaking main seal, (new timing belt kit purchased) and there was a significant quantity of oil on the distributor connector. I cleaned it up with Jaycar contact cleaner, and took to the electrical contacts gently with a needle file. Re-sprayed with contact cleaner afterwards, just to clean up, re-assembled and proceeded to re-do ALL the connectors on the engine and AFM. Coil, power unit, transistor, TPS, the two connectors on the LHS of the throttle body. anything I could find to take apart. All hoses reconnected, no splits, blockages etc..
THE VERDICT.
Was certainly 3/4 hour well spent. There is still a small flat-spot, but considering that I haven't replaced any parts yet, except for the fuel filter, it is running remarkably well. Certainly none of the misfiring and jerking that was evident before, I can drive up a hill in D, not have to pull it back to 2, or even 1. The big test will be when I take it up to town this evening. I may even be able to use the cruise control now!
It starts much more easily now, and I expect an improvement in fuel economy as well.
Thanks everyone for ideas, tips and general discussion, search is wonderful tool.

well i used some crc contact cleaner and a tooth brush and i clean every connection i could get my hands on to. It still does it when your in drive still but not as bad, insted of doing it all the time its slower at it

I put a tank of BP premiup (only 95 octane) and its gotten a bit jerky now :rant:

I think i might have busted the hose feeding the rear rocker cover, could that be casing problems?

I put a tank of BP premiup (only 95 octane) and its gotten a bit jerky now :rant:

I think i might have busted the hose feeding the rear rocker cover, could that be casing problems?

i found if its not connect it runs a bit rough lol

i found if its not connect it runs a bit rough lol

I'll swap it out tonight...... When I pulled it off to clean it the ends came off in my hands so they are sitting on there but I don't think it's sealed real well.... That could be my problem

I'll swap it out tonight...... When I pulled it off to clean it the ends came off in my hands so they are sitting on there but I don't think it's sealed real well.... That could be my problem

could be , now i need tio figure out what to change next

could be , now i need tio figure out what to change next

Did you swap out the TPS & MAFS?

Did you swap out the TPS & MAFS?

no no yet, cause i don't have another car to take it from

no no yet, cause i don't have another car to take it from

Hit up wreckers, shouldn't be too much

Hit up wreckers, shouldn't be too much

yea ill have to, ill see what the other gurus have to sau first?

anyone else got any ideas??

mines been perfect so far.....touch wood

but the fuel cap has done the job Ive been towing today aswell

mines been perfect so far.....touch wood

but the fuel cap has done the job Ive been towing today aswell

how much did the cap cost you??

how much did the cap cost you??

from where and can you get it in chrome?

from where and can you get it in chrome?

but you won't see it cause its behine the full lid

...same reason you chrome the engine? lol coz i is rice?

...same reason you chrome the engine? lol coz i is rice?

fair enough, i've seen chrome lockable ones at supercheap

how much did the cap cost you??

i just swaped it with my TH magna one, but I can price you one at work tommorrow if you want, Im pricing one for myself anyways

its not a chrome one....lol

but you can buy a ralliart one which is chrome / looking but about $100-200

there just under $15 for anyone from this club if they want one, there pretty cheap and I also can post them

Is the TPS and AFM interchangeable between the 2.6l 4cyl and the 3l v6?
I have a donor 4cyl that I can rat a few parts from.

mine still going well, with no issues

its driving way stronger also

any luck perry?

mine still going well, with no issues

its driving way stronger also

any luck perry?

na mate its still the same , i'm fed up with it ill take it to my dads mechanic friend when i get a chance

Cleaned all the plugs (With glass cleaner) fixed my issues.

Cleaned all the plugs (With glass cleaner) fixed my issues.

I was going to come here and say I've had no problems the last couple of weeks since cleaning only the MAFS plug, but after pushing the car last night and this morning it's running rough a bit./.....

So window cleaner hey? :doubt:

i've used contact cleaner and it mad a huge difference on start up (eaier to start now) it still has not solved the missfire issue. and now its starting to use more fuel

I swapped the TPS and AFM and fuel filler cap from a running 2.6l into my 3l today, the power increase was incredible. But, the misfire is still there, although not as noticeable. I put new plugs and leads on today, the old plugs had a wide gap, so I took it for a run with the new gear in it. I have more power up hills, but not the snappiness that I expect. I still have a stutter, and a noticeable flat spot right of 0% throttle. At full throttle it kicks back, but is still really hesitant to power up. I am going to adjust the TPS and the throttle cable as per the manual.
I gave it a tank of BP 98ron today as well.
I still have issues starting, I am starting to think that the fuel pressure regulator is not keeping pressure up when the motor is off. The only other thing I can think of is the fuel filter on the pump in the tank.

Totally romped my problem, chucked a new oxysensor in, aswell as octane boost + bp 98 octane, now runs like a dream.

I run 98 BP or caltex 95 is just the same, I get about 500kms a tank

I bought a new Oxy sensor but havnt fitted it yet.....Im lazy :redface:

I swapped the TPS and AFM and fuel filler cap from a running 2.6l into my 3l today, the power increase was incredible. But, the misfire is still there, although not as noticeable. I put new plugs and leads on today, the old plugs had a wide gap, so I took it for a run with the new gear in it. I have more power up hills, but not the snappiness that I expect. I still have a stutter, and a noticeable flat spot right of 0% throttle. At full throttle it kicks back, but is still really hesitant to power up. I am going to adjust the TPS and the throttle cable as per the manual.
I gave it a tank of BP 98ron today as well.
I still have issues starting, I am starting to think that the fuel pressure regulator is not keeping pressure up when the motor is off. The only other thing I can think of is the fuel filter on the pump in the tank.

Do you by any chance have access to a multimeter?

Your TPS may well be on its way out, rather easy to check with a multimeter......

Btw your fuel pressure reg wont keep pressure when the motor is off, as soon as you click to accessories (or start, depending on manufacturer) your fuel pump 'primes' and that builds the pressure in the system.

Other things to check:
*Fuel filter
*Rotor button (if worn, replace)
*Distributor cap (if they are cracked, they can arc between the contacts causing a mis-fire)
*Distributor cap - if there is corrosion build up inside on the contacts (white powder) replace it.....its gone.

its booked in to the auto electrician on Wednesday to put it on the machine thingy. so hopefully *fingerscrosed* that they find the problem

Hooray! Looks like it may be almost solved, even after replacing the parts I listed before it still played up (actually worse). In desperation I put new plugs and plug leads on and apart from a slight flat spot off 0% throttle and still taking it's time to start, I declare the problem solved.


Do you by any chance have access to a multimeter?

Your TPS may well be on its way out, rather easy to check with a multimeter......
Yes, that is on the list of things to do, I have the manual page for adjusting it printed out. With a bit of luck this will fix the flat spot and hard bump back to second if I stop in a hurry.



Btw your fuel pressure reg wont keep pressure when the motor is off, as soon as you click to accessories (or start, depending on manufacturer) your fuel pump 'primes' and that builds the pressure in the system.
Yes I now realize that (oops), even if I sit with just ignition on (not started) for 15-20 secs, it still takes a while to start. But it is definately better than before.



Other things to check:
*Fuel filter
Replaced the one in the engine bay, soon to do the one in the tank


*Rotor button (if worn, replace)
*Distributor cap (if they are cracked, they can arc between the contacts causing a mis-fire)
*Distributor cap - if there is corrosion build up inside on the contacts (white powder) replace it.....its gone.
Planning to replace these as a matter of course, just because it has been playing up, maybe this also has accelerated wear in these components.
Thanks for the suggestions, they are most appreciated.

ok it was at the auto electricks today and they found no codes and nothing came up on the scope thingy

Can anyone point me in the wright direction??

bump...

i had a very similar problem with my vn it would run fine then run like it was running out of petrol on and off i did everything most of you have stated here plugs,leads,coil packs ect ect in the end it was the rubbers in my fuel pump that caused the problem the second i changed the fuel pump it ran like a brand new car not saying this is your problem but its worth having alook :D

anyone?? Madmagna?

Has anyone here with these issues here actually cleaned their injectors?

I do not mean crap in a bottle, I mean ultra sonic clean as these cars are getting on and there is often gum and carbon on the pintles

As for setting the TPS with the meter, you can do this on a fully variable TPS but the issue is Manga do not run these, well not for the whole range anyway

The CORRECT way to set, as per the mits manual, is http://madmagna.atspace.com/tech/tbody.htm

try this and see if it helps, especially on the autos

thanks mal, i've also been told buy my dads mechnich to go and see a fuel injection place. I've tride the stuff in the bottle, all it done was make the muffler go black (realy thick carbon on it). I wil go and see the EFI person today and ill let you know how it go and ill try and set the tps on the weekend when i lower the car:D

As for setting the TPS with the meter, you can do this on a fully variable TPS but the issue is Manga do not run these, well not for the whole range anyway

The CORRECT way to set, as per the mits manual, is http://madmagna.atspace.com/tech/tbody.htm

try this and see if it helps, especially on the autos

Along with plugs and plug leads, setting this correctly (adjust so that you just get the change from closed circuit to open circuit on pins 3 & 4 of TPS with .65mm feeler gauge in place) solved almost all of my problems. No more flat spot, no more missfire under load, hooray!
Still have difficulty starting, seems to crank for ever, I am thinking that the timing might be out, a proper tuneup in next on the cards.
Once again, thanks to all those who have helped with ideas etc..

Yes,
HAd similar problems with a KS several years ago.
Plug leads, including the king lead as well as good plugs made a big difference.
However it was still quite rough.
Took it into a place that did off the car injectors service.
There was over 50% difference between the best and worst injectors, none of them flowed to spec as well. The sporay patterns were all ove the place.
After cleaning, I saw the confirmation run, there was no visible difference between the volume delivery and spray pattern.
Back in the car, it felt like a 20% power gain. Smooth as. Fuel consumption improved dramatically as well.

Gerry

How much can one expect to pay to have injectors cleaned ultrasonically or whatever? Don't they have to be sent away to a special place to get it done or something? Thinking of getting mine done next week when the car is in for service

ok, so now it has started to get worse. You can feal the missfire when you are in park or neutral now, and it jerks a bit when you speed up to say like 80k's. With the injectors would it e better to get these tested first??

my issues improved 80 percent by changing plugs and leads, but within a day was back. I have a new thing to add though, which would support MADMAGNAS theory of bad/leaky/ poor spray pattern injectors.

My car can barely (in L for christsake) accelerate. But when i mash it up a hill and the rpm's reach 4700ish the car takes off like there is no tomorrow, as good as ever, but hit 2nd gear and under 4700rpm and its back to the same jerky, missfire, barely able tin increase velocity ****ness it has had.

when i leave it in 2nd and say go down an onramp the car is perky and twitchy just liek it should be when the mill is spinning about 4500rpm area. Very peaky, how the car should be, no missfire, plenty of oomph. Why this screams bad injectors, is that anything under those engine speeds and a poor spray pattern and or leaky injecotr will play havvock with wetting plugs and causing missfires and what not and at over those rpms the incoming air velocity can sort of make use of the fuelling situation.

I have also noticed, this wont happen in the mornings, the car is almost perfect until the engine has been at full operating temp for 20 minutes or the ambient temp is about 30degrees. The car runs worse on normal unleaded then it does on 98E10. this is why i reckon the plugs and leads only worked for a day since i had to let the car warm down to change them.

my issues improved 80 percent by changing plugs and leads, but within a day was back. I have a new thing to add though, which would support MADMAGNAS theory of bad/leaky/ poor spray pattern injectors.

My car can barely (in L for christsake) accelerate. But when i mash it up a hill and the rpm's reach 4700ish the car takes off like there is no tomorrow, as good as ever, but hit 2nd gear and under 4700rpm and its back to the same jerky, missfire, barely able tin increase velocity ****ness it has had.

when i leave it in 2nd and say go down an onramp the car is perky and twitchy just liek it should be when the mill is spinning about 4500rpm area. Very peaky, how the car should be, no missfire, plenty of oomph. Why this screams bad injectors, is that anything under those engine speeds and a poor spray pattern and or leaky injecotr will play havvock with wetting plugs and causing missfires and what not and at over those rpms the incoming air velocity can sort of make use of the fuelling situation.

I have also noticed, this wont happen in the mornings, the car is almost perfect until the engine has been at full operating temp for 20 minutes or the ambient temp is about 30degrees. The car runs worse on normal unleaded then it does on 98E10. this is why i reckon the plugs and leads only worked for a day since i had to let the car warm down to change them.


that sounds like , what her car is doing. Would it be better to get them tested first??

Probably best to just get them cleaned and be done with it.

I think in melb/syd there are people that will come around to your house and do it, probably going to be a bit harder to get them done around here.

up in rockhampton when i was there a local guy was doing it for 100bucks drive in drive out. which isnt bad cause it is time consuming but not labour intensive.

i dont know anyone around brisbane that does it themselves, surely someone does, but most places outsource the work to a specialist, they guy in rocky was cheap because he had the cleaner himself.

Lionel

Just to throw additional feedback into this, the directions on Madmagna's page for cleaning the throttle body and setting the TPS dramatically reduced the engine shudder at higher temperatures on my 'folks Magna TR. The amount of carbon that had blown back into the throttle body was incredible. I didn't take the throttle body off the car (having limited time to perform the task) instead choosing to use a rag soaked in carby cleaner, but even then the results were well noticeable.

well this is why i think there are multitudes of issues here, because everytime i do somethin gto the car its get better, for a short period of time, whether is a week or a couple days, everytime i do something i try and reset the ecu, because for some reason i think the ecu is whats putting the car in the situation its in, being as how wtih my car it started one day at a set of traffic lights.

I replaced all 6 spark plugs and cleaned out distributor cap and the contacts.

Along with oil & filter change @ 220,000km

Problem completely solved. Let's see how long it all lasts.

i haven't had a chance or the money to fix my girlfirends car yet (lost my job) and plus i've got bigger problems with it, the welsh plugs are leaking

hows this for a doosey. My little brothers magan has similar kms on the clock, and was serviced the same time as mine. plugs, leads, rotor and distributor were done and oil and filters.

Evert adjustable voltage on my car was played with to completely mimick my brothers magna. Timing, TPS, that variable vane thingy over the dizzy on the inlet plenum. Everything. Both cars then had their ecu reset. My brothers car drivers as it did (not unexpected) my car drives a poof tenth better. is smoother then before, still has a miss at 2200-3000rpm but its not as adrupt but my car is still very much down on power and gets horrible fuel economy. Granted my littles brothers magna gets huge kms from tank (550 for the daily grind and into the 640+ on the highway) to put it in perspective, my younger brother drove from ipswich to Mount Morgan on 1 tank. Filled up at the BP on the Wareago and filled up again in Mount morgan. 670kms.

My car still consistantly gets 360-380 tops. Highway or town. The car gets dramatically worse whenthe 02 sensor is disconnected which leads me to beleive this isnt the problem (although may be part of it.)

Think I fixed my problem, I went to replace the MAF with one I bought from tuftr just in case there was a problem and it turns out there was. The honeycomb mesh had fallen out of one of the holes and the other bits were bent/damaged. Due to a problem with the nuts holding the maf on I couldn't do a full swap but I did clean and replace the mesh.

Also I found out my breathers were getting blocked up, not on the rocker covers but on the tube leading into the intake (just before the throttle body). I cleaned it out with some hot water and soap but it didn't fix the problem so I ran a fine screw driver though it and a whole bunch of oil and this orange stuff (rust colour) came out of it.


Put it all back together, reset ECU, and no mis firing! I also hope this fixed the piss-poor fuel consumption I was getting.

Also I am not sure about this but I think I am right, if your check engine light comes on when your car is mis firing it probably means something is wrong with the MAF as I don't think any other sensors would cause the car to mis fire AND show the check engine light.

Mines still running strong, no miss fire/shudder, its was vapour lock for me

now its wont turn over straight away...lol

OK, mine started misfiring again, thought "why the hell are we all trying to guess when our ECU will tell us. I ended up with a code 12 and 41, I cleaned the maf and the front three injectors connectors with nail polish remover and a toothbrush and the problem went away (I had to unplug the ecu for 10 mins to clear the code BTW)

I stole this from another members post, many years ago....

The code can be read with a LED test light or high impedence (Min 1 megohm) analogue volt meter.

The pulses are displayed as a series of long and short pulses. To identify the the code number, note the number of long and short pulses. One long pulse followed by 4 short pulses is code 14. If more than one code exists they will be displayed in numerical order with a pause in between. If no faults are present a continuous series of short pulses will be displayed.

To Test

Connect the negative lead of the test equipment to pin 12 and the postive lead to pin 1 and turn ignition on. Read codes.

Engine ECU Codes

11 Oxygen sensor circuit
12 Air flow sensor
13 Intake air temperature sensor
14 Throttle position sensor
21 Coolant temp sensor
22 Crank angle sensor
23 No 1 cylinder TDC sensor
23 Vehicle speed sensor
25 Atmospheric pressure sensor
31 knock sensor
36 Ignition timing
41 fuel injectors


http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9762&d=1115373681

I fixed up another one today a mint,mint,mint 140,000km KS verada

it was the spark plug gap, it was 1.1, we brought it down to 0.8 and now its running strong

Well its been a while since i posted hear anyway, we end up replacing the timing belt + water pump + cam seals and the front welsh plugs and the welsh plugs in the both heads. Yesterday i got the injectors clean the report came back with them and it says 4 were flowing at 100m and the other 2 were at 67ml for 124 seconds. After they cleaned them they were all at 100ml but now at 112 seconds (don't know what the seconds means)....any guess what its still doing it :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant:

So what else could it be i was thinking about cleaning the the ISC and the TPS and see how that goes, anyone else got any suggestions cause this is relay giving me the ****s

if you did all that and still have issues with shuddering/flatspots then i would suggest getting a fuel pressure test, as the pump may be slowly dying or the FPR might not be holding the extra pressure (above base)

Wow, that must have been an expensive service :-(

I WD40'd and wire brushed my TPS sensor and MAF sensor plugs, and my car was perfect for a day, but now its back to a slug again...... Maybe give that a go again...

I feel your pain mate it's really frustrating

You sure it's not dead CV's or something?

if you did all that and still have issues with shuddering/flatspots then i would suggest getting a fuel pressure test, as the pump may be slowly dying or the FPR might not be holding the extra pressure (above base)

i'm going to pull the tps out and the isc out and give them a clean. And i have to get them checked. The car runs alot smother and quiter now and seems to have a lot more power


Wow, that must have been an expensive service :-(

I WD40'd and wire brushed my TPS sensor and MAF sensor plugs, and my car was perfect for a day, but now its back to a slug again...... Maybe give that a go again...

I feel your pain mate it's really frustrating

You sure it's not dead CV's or something?

not realy
$170 for the timing belt kit
$180 for the injectors to be cleaned
$65 for all the welsh plugs

labour was free cause i fixed his and his dads computer :D
a mate of mine is a mechanic and he is stumped that it is still doing it