View Full Version : Symptom of a Slipping Clutch
MitchellO
17-10-2008, 08:21 PM
Hey guys, I seem to look for problems in my cars, don't know why.
Just wondering about my gear box. I've not had any experience with a slipping clutch, so I don't know what the issues that it can cause are. I've done a bit of a search here and a google but I'm still not quite sure.
I've noticed that going into gear occasionally I get a bit of a crunch, despite the clutch pedal being fully depressed. I've also found that the car is more than willing to coast along in first with the clutch out without any slope on the road or press of the accelerator, is this normal?
Cheers
magna00
17-10-2008, 08:24 PM
Hey guys, I seem to look for problems in my cars, don't know why.
Just wondering about my gear box. I've not had any experience with a slipping clutch, so I don't know what the issues that it can cause are. I've done a bit of a search here and a google but I'm still not quite sure.
I've noticed that going into gear occasionally I get a bit of a crunch, despite the clutch pedal being fully depressed. I've also found that the car is more than willing to coast along in first with the clutch out without any slope on the road or press of the accelerator, is this normal?
Cheers
If the pressure plate is gone, it will slip underload, sounds like the throwout bearing to me. Also the slight crunching could be the tranny fluid as well
MitchellO
17-10-2008, 08:27 PM
Just saw your PM ;)
Today for the first time I heard a slight squeaking sound occasionally when changing gears, which according to Google can be associated with the throwout bearing.
How much :(
Surely this shouldn't be happening on a car that's just ticked over 60000kms???
magna00
17-10-2008, 08:43 PM
Just saw your PM ;)
Today for the first time I heard a slight squeaking sound occasionally when changing gears, which according to Google can be associated with the throwout bearing.
How much :(
Surely this shouldn't be happening on a car that's just ticked over 60000kms???
It can happen, you might have a leaking rear main seal that might be the cause of it as well, you using any oil at all? and it can happen at any time really, i had 2 go in the period of my WB and i only had it 8 months, but they were pie to install.
MitchellO
17-10-2008, 08:53 PM
I had the gearbox oil changed about a week ago, my mechanic (been working on my parents and grandmas car for years) didn't mention anything about the oil being low or anything.
SupremeMoFo
17-10-2008, 08:56 PM
Try this - http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_australia/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/a/AU_VMX_M.pdf
MitchellO
17-10-2008, 09:00 PM
Just paid $120 to get it replaced :( Will go back next week to speak to him about it.
I have a similar problem on my 05 380 VRX thats just done 40k.
When cold (like Ballarat cold) my 1st to 2nd change crunches like a biatch with the clutch pedal fully depressed. If I change gears slower, it doesn't do it. But the problem goes away as soon as the gearbox warms up.
I will mention it at the 45k service, but untill then, it doesn't bother me much at all. (Expecially as in this warmer weather, it doesn't do it at all)
Is yours doing it in every gear? Or on particular changes?
MitchellO
17-10-2008, 09:05 PM
Mines pretty much isolated to 3rd gear, although very occasionally I feel the slight crunching in 2nd.
Doesn't seem to matter whether it's cold or warmed up.
Interesting . . I really have no idea what it is, just thought I would mention that mine does a similar thing too . .
I know what its like when you get something new, any tiny little thing that isn't perfect annoys the hell outta you!! Actually I get that with stuff I have owned for years as well as new stuff!! Hehe.
MitchellO
17-10-2008, 09:10 PM
What's more annoying is that I never had anything like this with my $7500 Verada, and I bought a nice low-km newish model to avoid this kind of crap :rant:
Yeah I know how you feel mate.
When i first got my 380 I was driving around and the back left window just randomly dropped into the door.
Interesting . .
So I got it fixed under warranty all good, but very inconvenient (had to chock the window up in the door while I waited for the part to arrive)
Driving along a few weeks later and I **** you not, the back right window does exactley the same thing.
Same inconvenience, same warranty fix. Except this time it took longer cause MMAL was sourcing a new supplier cause they had had alot of 380s with the same problem (so they tell me)
I had a 99 TH Adv for 3 years, sold it with 160k on the clock and never had ANY problems.
Its disheartening I know, but you will get it sorted!!
ARS55
17-10-2008, 09:20 PM
Sounds to me like your gearbox oil is possibly the wrong type. If you hear a squeaking sound when you are pressing in the clutch with the motor running and you also hear the noise while the motor is turned off it sounds like you just need a bit of dry lube put onto the joints of your clutch fork and your pedal where it pivots. However if the noise you hear is only when your motor is running it sounds like you will need to replace your throwout bearing and you could be up for a nasty surprise as the whole gearbox has to come out and even with the gearbox out they are not the easiest to change.
MitchellO
17-10-2008, 09:26 PM
If it comes to that and I have to get that thing replaced, should I do the clutch at the same time? From what I've read the clutches in the Magna's ain't that great, and if I have to have the gearbox out to get this bearing thing replaced, could get the clutch done at the same time to avoid extra labour down the track.
Screamin TE
18-10-2008, 05:11 AM
1-2nd crunch is relatively normal in these gearboxes. My te does it and my TJ does it. Just change gears a bit slower, or double clutch until its warm.
Madmagna
18-10-2008, 06:16 AM
A sliping clutch will not cause gears to "crunch" it will cause you to rev high and go no where
The crunch is hard to explain as you really have to know how a gear box workd. Trying to explain it in simply terms however, when you dpress the clutch the input shaft is no longer connected to the crankshaft (via the clutch)
When you go to select a gear, the appropiate selector will then attempt to slide a hub which is connected to the main shaft to the actual gear, there is inbetween these two items a syncromesh ring that will actually bring the gear upto the same speed as the shaft. (pretty crappy explaination sorry) but what I am trying to get to is that it is not a gear as such that is grinding but the selector. If you are running the wrong gear oil (thus making everything too sticky) or your selector is worn you will get this symptom.
A lot of ppl have a bad habit of resting their hand on the gear shifter as well, this can cause wear to the selector and also cause issues like this or jamming in gear
Oh and your throw out bearing will only be noisy when your cluth is depressed, if you have the noise when your foot is not on the clutch it is actually your input shaft bearing. The amount of people who have brought cars to me over the years for thow out bearings because they were told to amazes me when it was the input shaft bearing making the noise
ar3nbe
18-10-2008, 06:37 AM
Another Magna with a third Gear cruching issue. Theres a few of these Ive heard about. I would say full flush, and refill with quality oil
My theory lately for this has been incorrect gearbox oil used in the Magna boxes in the past. The magna gearbox uses brass syncros, which requires GL4 gearbox oil. If someone has used GL5 gearbox oil in the past, it is possible that the Syncros have not liked it. GL5 oil tends to eat away at brass syncros.
This may not be your issues. Some people have cured this problem by adding thicker gearbox oil. Do you know what oil is in it atm ?
MitchellO
18-10-2008, 08:26 AM
Driving around this morning I didn't hear the squeak, so maybe it was just my automotive hypochondria playing up again.
SupremeMoFo
18-10-2008, 10:04 AM
or double clutch until its warm.+1 that's my way of avoiding it.
XT Wagon : I have the bearing noise (sounds like 2 parts making friction) when my foot is totally off the clutch.
TS V6 manual, new clutch 12 months ago, rear main seal done. Clutch operation all good.
As you were saying, my mechanic indeed told me it's the throw-out bearing and that it's a big job to fix (one day's worth of labour etc.etc.) Certainly makes me question the integrity of qualified mechanics. He never said anything about input shaft bearings!
From what you've said, it's my input shaft bearing that's noisy, is this as big a job to replace?
ar3nbe
18-10-2008, 01:59 PM
As you were saying, my mechanic indeed told me it's the throw-out bearing and that it's a big job to fix (one day's worth of labour etc.etc.) Certainly makes me question the integrity of qualified mechanics. He never said anything about input shaft bearings!
Find a new Mechanic. A good mechanic can do a clutch change on an evo, that is, gearbox out, old clutch out, new clutch in, and gearbox back in all in under 5 hours.
A Magna Gearbox is far easy due to no transfer case to worry about, less piping near the battery to undo, and a lot more room to play it.
The throwout bearing requires the gearbox out, and really, should be able to be done in under 5hours easily.
Disciple
18-10-2008, 02:49 PM
A days labour? :roll: Should take a few hours mate... Or, do it yourself. ;)
ARS55
18-10-2008, 03:25 PM
just remember guys that manual magna's are not the most common cars around so most mechanics would be over quoting i.e. a full days labour for unexpected things. If you are really worried about paying to much labour find a mechanic that has done a magna clutch before not just one that says they can do it.
madmike
18-10-2008, 07:14 PM
I did the clutch in my 4cyl TE couple of months ago with putting in a extreme extra heavy duty kit. It took me 2 hours to get right out and clean and install new plates etc. Then about 15 minutes to put back in. Then prob another 10 mins to hook all back up and fill the oil.
Then another day to work out why the **** I had no gears at all after all went back in fine. Turns out the slave cylinder didnt like my new clutch and decided it was time to take a holiday.:rant:
ARS55
18-10-2008, 07:17 PM
the 4cyl are different i think, the V6's use a pull type clutch setup and unless you are familiar with them can be an absolute mission to get apart i.e. the gearbox won't come off.
ar3nbe
18-10-2008, 07:29 PM
the 4cyl are different i think, the V6's use a pull type clutch setup and unless you are familiar with them can be an absolute mission to get apart i.e. the gearbox won't come off.
Its the kind of thing where the first time can be very annoying due to getting the bearing off. Once you have done it, its quite simple :)
ARS55
18-10-2008, 07:34 PM
true but you still can't compare them the the push type clutch setups
ar3nbe
18-10-2008, 08:08 PM
true but you still can't compare them the the push type clutch setups
Thats very true.
I was just saying that if a mechanic has done a pull style clutch before, which, is very likely, then it the "poping" of the bearing shouldnt be an issue
Blackbird
18-10-2008, 10:07 PM
Crunching gears....
Mitso puts a small restrictor valve in the slave cylinder (The one on the box itself.)
It's basically a little plastic valve with a small spring mounted on the inlet of the slave cylinder of your clutch...
How it works is when you depress the clutch... the pressure opens the valve (Compresses the spring) to allow full fluid flow into the slave...
When you release the pedal the spring closes the valve thereby turning a 6mm pipe into a 1mm hole for the fluid to escape through....
Stops people slamming or side-stepping the clutch....
Mitso has been doing it to their cars for years...
Especially the Evo's
My Evo 6 had one. I removed it and the whole experience has been great... doesn't crunch anymore and shifts are smoother even when cold....
Also a little thing I did when I had my 93' GSR... 1st to 2nd was hard... especially when cold in winter.... just wouldn't allow me to slot it into second...
i put in a bottle of Slick 50 manual gearbox treatment and withing 50k's it was the smoothest box I've ever driven.....
I don't believe in additives at all in fact I hate them......but I gave it a shot.....and it worked....
I don't recommend you put it in if you have an LSD though.... read the pack first.... it may stipulate some other treatment.... BUT only Slick 50.....
As for the squeak.... if the sound is when you depress the pedal...prolly lack of lube on the clutch fork pivot... easy fix... take off the rubber cover where the fork goes in and see if you can see the pivot.... see if it's rusty coloured.. (Most likely) if so dab some grease and do your best to apply to the pivot.... heat from the engine will do the rest spreading the grease when the temp softens it...
If it's there all the time... hmmm how low is your pedal adjusted when it starts to grab when you take off????
The thrust bearing only makes grinding noises when it's on it's way out...(That I've ever seen and fixed.... if that's the case... while everything is apart... replace the clutch.
Steve
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