Blazin'
23-10-2008, 10:50 AM
Hey guys... It's been a horrible fortnight for my TP... it really has.. last night driving to a friends house, *stutter stutter stutter* STOP... oh **** I thought... yes... indeed i should have...
Well, I called the RAA out and he checked over everything, and he told me most likely that my ECU was shot.
OK, a bit of background the last few days the car had been stalling if I gave it a short rev... or even not, sometimes it just stopped when revs came back down to the 800rpm mark... I heard a small ticking coming from under the bonnet and I decided to investigate, and noticed the throttle controller (is that what its called?? i duinno, when the engine is running, you push it and rev the engine) moving back and forwards and ticking, it eventually stopped. it appeared as if it was trying to level revs out... but the engine had stalled :S
So, I was planning to take it somewhere to get looked at later in the week when my trouble started last night. The boloke checked everything, fuses all good, fuel system all good, spark was weak but still OK. (Later I found out that the coil in the dizzy cap wasn't making proper contactm its snapped a little at the end. I have since replaced that and no better)
So the car wouldnt start.. it would crank and crank and nearly start. It really tried but just didnt.
I told the bloke from the RAA about my dramas last week. For those who dont know, basically, alternator fanbelt snapped causing sump seal to break and oil flicking everywhere, resulting in alternator getting wet with oil and not functioning properly and getting a flat battery, after sitting for a day or so the alternator seemed fine, and has been the last week and a bit, so I assumed the oil had dried up/dripped off and the alternator was OK. The RAA guy suggested that maybe when the alternator ghot wet, the electrical system suffered a surge and hence damaged the ECU.
Soooo... basically, I'm asking if anyone agrees that it could be the ECU at fault? I've had an opinion from an autoelectrician thismorning but don't wanna pay him $500 odd for a changeover ECU or $1100 for a new one. Called U-Pull-It and I can get an ECU for $55, and looked in my Haynes manual and it doesnt seem that hard to replace.
Are there any precations I should take replacing the ECU though. I am pretty sure I would need to get one of of a TP Elite EFI Model with all the same features mine (including like power windows/cruise control etc, or dont these things matter???) for it to be the same though right?? I will check model number and everthing before AI buy anyway to make sure they are the same.
Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated? Or if the problem could possibly be due to something else?? :doubt:
Thanks All,
-Matt
Well, I called the RAA out and he checked over everything, and he told me most likely that my ECU was shot.
OK, a bit of background the last few days the car had been stalling if I gave it a short rev... or even not, sometimes it just stopped when revs came back down to the 800rpm mark... I heard a small ticking coming from under the bonnet and I decided to investigate, and noticed the throttle controller (is that what its called?? i duinno, when the engine is running, you push it and rev the engine) moving back and forwards and ticking, it eventually stopped. it appeared as if it was trying to level revs out... but the engine had stalled :S
So, I was planning to take it somewhere to get looked at later in the week when my trouble started last night. The boloke checked everything, fuses all good, fuel system all good, spark was weak but still OK. (Later I found out that the coil in the dizzy cap wasn't making proper contactm its snapped a little at the end. I have since replaced that and no better)
So the car wouldnt start.. it would crank and crank and nearly start. It really tried but just didnt.
I told the bloke from the RAA about my dramas last week. For those who dont know, basically, alternator fanbelt snapped causing sump seal to break and oil flicking everywhere, resulting in alternator getting wet with oil and not functioning properly and getting a flat battery, after sitting for a day or so the alternator seemed fine, and has been the last week and a bit, so I assumed the oil had dried up/dripped off and the alternator was OK. The RAA guy suggested that maybe when the alternator ghot wet, the electrical system suffered a surge and hence damaged the ECU.
Soooo... basically, I'm asking if anyone agrees that it could be the ECU at fault? I've had an opinion from an autoelectrician thismorning but don't wanna pay him $500 odd for a changeover ECU or $1100 for a new one. Called U-Pull-It and I can get an ECU for $55, and looked in my Haynes manual and it doesnt seem that hard to replace.
Are there any precations I should take replacing the ECU though. I am pretty sure I would need to get one of of a TP Elite EFI Model with all the same features mine (including like power windows/cruise control etc, or dont these things matter???) for it to be the same though right?? I will check model number and everthing before AI buy anyway to make sure they are the same.
Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated? Or if the problem could possibly be due to something else?? :doubt:
Thanks All,
-Matt