hello

i now its late, but i thought i might as well give it a go..

so i decided (as a i do not have the funding just yet) (and am total n00b) to put in my alpine 6X9 typeR's tonight.. however i dont no what this thing is (metal object highlighted in RED, the one on the far left.), and what do i do with it. (refer to photo)

and whilst taking off the covering for the speakers i noticed a screw :S i no i no A SCREW ... but how do i take it out? lol

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/7895/img3753vo7.th.jpg (http://img293.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img3753vo7.jpg)http://img293.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/306/img3754no6.th.jpg (http://img219.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img3754no6.jpg)http://img219.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

see the screw, right underneath the back window how can i get to it?

the top pic are just your standard terminals. so just chop the plug off if you are intending on using the same wiring and solder and wire shrink the stripped ends onto new speakers

you need either a stubby phillips screw driver, a Z shaped phillips screwdriver or a 1/4 ratchet with a phillips bit in it, either one will work, you just wont get a standard screwdriver in there.

:stoopid: :stoopid: :stoopid:

You will need one of those short screwdrivers

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w65/CRacerX1252/000_0715.jpg

If you have one of those philips head bits that fit into a socket drive, I got mine out with a 1/4" inch drive ratchet, with a socket that that accomodates a philips bit. Or something like this.
http://njsr.org/pics/albums/userpics/10905/normal_100_0772.JPG

In the pic with the red car with the 6" speakers above, they have more room. ( but note that screw has a Hex head, Ideal for a socket).

Or in some flat pack furniture you can get a Screw driver in the shape of an allen key, they can be bought at a good tool shop.

Or you can cheat, grip the screw by the pointy end in the boot with snub nosed pliers and twist it out, then you place them with hex head screws for the future.

sorry bout the repeat of info. :(

how about the wiring pic i showed you guys? what do i do with that??? wher4e do i cut?

can u show me an outline on the photo i provided?

If you dont have any intention to ever use stock speakers again, then you can cut before the plug.

At a wild guess, yellow with red is your power, the one below is your negative.

Search the forums, there's lots of info on speaker wire colour and if its positive or negative.

Make sure you solder connections, if you dont know how to, find someone who does.

yellow/red - Positive
grey/red - negative

yellow/blue - positive
grey/blue - negative

yellow/red - Positive
grey/red - negative

yellow/blue - positive
grey/blue - negative

w00t I was right.....

(guessed as negative terminals are generally bigger.....)

Haha, I had no decent tools. I got the screw out by twisting it from inside the boot with a pair of pliers :)

i do not intend to use stock ones again! lol

also... if i do cut, before that ugly black plug... what am i soldering? the red/yellow (power) to what? and the grey/blue (negative) to what? just on the new 6X9?

check below

http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/9273/52564942bb5.th.jpg (http://img362.imageshack.us/my.php?image=52564942bb5.jpg)http://img362.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

what wire to where?

i do not intend to use stock ones again! lol

also... if i do cut, before that ugly black plug... what am i soldering? the red/yellow (power) to what? and the grey/blue (negative) to what? just on the new 6X9?

check below

http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/9273/52564942bb5.th.jpg (http://img362.imageshack.us/my.php?image=52564942bb5.jpg)http://img362.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

what wire to where?

Yes to the new 6x9's.

Not to where you marked though.

There's two tabs (hard to see in that pic). One's bigger than the other, with a little slot in the middle of them.

Put the wire through there, enough to wrap back around itself a few times (you need to strip roughly 4cm of wire).

Then heat up the wire (not the terminal) with the soldering iron (around 3seconds with an 80watt iron, 6-8seconds with a 40watt, 12odd seconds with a 20watt) and feed the solder into it.

Do not heat the terminals directly, if you see the factory solder start going chrome in colour, back the heat off straight away.

The heat from the wire should be enough to heat those little tabs enough to be able to feed some solder onto them to secure the wire.

oh yeah i see them...

one on the left is thinner and smaller and other tab on the right is bigger with bigger hole..

so i put one wire through 1 tab and the other wire through the other tab. yep got it..

that i use the soldering iron (ONCE I HAVE WRAPPED IT AROUND THE TAB a few times?) on thee existing wire... is that right? why? then use the iron to melt the wire to the tab?

Hi there.

1. Strip about 4cm of the plastic/rubber off the end of the wire.

2. Twist it so it doesnt fray.

3. Put this through the hole, about half of the wire.

4. Fold the wire over the tab, and wrap it back around itself.

5. Solder the wire, then as the wire sucks the solder in, move it over the tab.

Why? To stop your connections coming loose and either shorting, or being annoying.

Another way to do this is to get yourself some female spade connectors from Jaycar, crimp them into the wire, and its easy to remove next time.

Look onto the new 6x9's, the tabs should be marked positive and negative (if not, i'll take a stab and say the bigger tab is negative).

:stoopid::stoopid::stoopid:

Get the female spade connectors man, makes it so much easier to install and when when you need to remove them.

thanks heaps guys

btw i was told by someone i know that the 6X9's should puush out more power than my DDLinear, and that (keep in mind a have a 4ch coustic and alpine mono) i should wire only my rears to the 4ch?

i was like WHAT!

also... i have the pioneer p4000 in atm, and if i am to connect wires to the back of it i need to putt it out right?

whats some advice for doing this, last time i pulled the stock one out.... put it this way... i broke it...all!

thanks heaps guys

btw i was told by someone i know that the 6X9's should puush out more power than my DDLinear, and that (keep in mind a have a 4ch coustic and alpine mono) i should wire only my rears to the 4ch?

i was like WHAT!

also... i have the pioneer p4000 in atm, and if i am to connect wires to the back of it i need to putt it out right?

whats some advice for doing this, last time i pulled the stock one out.... put it this way... i broke it...all!
i am so over that statement
speakers dont produce power...they need power to run!
and why dont you use the 4ch to power all 4 speakers and the mono for the sub (assuming you have a sub and if not then why do you have a mono?)

you no what i mean...push out more SOUND!!

yes i was planning on doing that.. someone just told me to:
run fronts off h/u
rears off amp
and yes my sub off mono

and i thought, why not all..

if you only have a 4 chan amp then

Run the Fronts off the Amp
Rear off the Deck
Bridge chan 3 and 4 and run the sub off the amp :)

If you have a Mono then amp your rears as well and run the sub off the mono :):) and wala done :)

Cheers

Heath

you no what i mean...push out more SOUND!!

yes i was planning on doing that.. someone just told me to:
run fronts off h/u
rears off amp
and yes my sub off mono

and i thought, why not all..

How often do you drive your car from the backseat?

If you are 10ft tall, and drive from the backseat, sure, amp the rears and dont amp the fronts.

Otherwise, always amp your fronts first.

thats what i plan on doing.. amping all teh speakers and mono the sub..


well seeing i will be doing it soon... can someone point me in the right direction? like a guide on this forum or something..?

and not bains removal guide... i mean like wiring what to where.. and so on..

thanks for all ur help guys.

Amp fronts, dont bother with rears.

I have a set of focal 6x9s in my parcel shelf that aren't even hooked up.

thats what i plan on doing.. amping all teh speakers and mono the sub..


well seeing i will be doing it soon... can someone point me in the right direction? like a guide on this forum or something..?

and not bains removal guide... i mean like wiring what to where.. and so on..

thanks for all ur help guys.

Do you mean wiring from start to finish?

As in, power cables, speaker cables, amps etc?

You located in NSW?

Do you mean wiring from start to finish?

As in, power cables, speaker cables, amps etc?

You located in NSW?

I think he is in Vic champ.

More than happy to write a big long boring guide ( including pics ) if you want. Just let me know what exactly your installing and where it's going.

I think he is in Vic champ.

More than happy to write a big long boring guide ( including pics ) if you want. Just let me know what exactly your installing and where it's going.

Wanna do a combined effort? :P

**updated

OMG ARE YOU SERIOUS!

yeah im in vic...

i would LOVE a guide

atm its all stock except i have a prof. installed headunit (AVH-P4000DVD)

the gear i have...

1X DDLinear (Fronts)
1X 6X9 Type R's (Rears)
1X Coustic 4ch (Amp)
1X Alpine (Mono)
10-15mt Speaker Wiring ** just found 10-15mt more
1X Kicker CompVR 12" (boxed sub)
1X DNA 4G Amp Wiring Kit
1X Pack of Sound Deadner

And i plan to have the both amps in the boot (on the right hand side, toward the start of the boot, encased perspex or something) and the sub in the middle on the right hand side...

as i have gas tank at rear.

lol, its funny i can read a guide, and i have no clue, i look at pics, a lot easier :))

The sub........

Have you considered one of these? Not sure how they sound, however, for tight installs, and the fact the cash goes towards an AMC member, its pretty damned perfect!

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56169&highlight=fibreglass

Its for a 12". and build quality looks better than whats in the shops too :-)

There's quite a few guides on here already (like the head unit). I would have done a tutorial by now in some of the basic installs, wiring, some minor fabrication work (like speaker baffles) but I done my install, and well.....its done lol

1X DDLinear (Fronts)
1X 6X9 Type R's (Rears)
1X Coustic 4ch (Amp)
1X Alpine (Mono)
*** 10-15mt Speaker Wiring you'll need more, especially if re-wiring the back speakers too, close to double perhaps of 16AWG. Shouldnt cost more than $50 or so, dont pay $8/m for stinger (like i did).

1X DNA 4G Amp Wiring Kit
****1X Pack of Sound Deadner - Should do your fronts, part of your parcel tray, and some of the boot....depending on if you mean the bulk pack, or the door kit?

nah i got a sub.. kicker 12" compVR with box

and the speaker wire i got more of, just found some...

and the pack i have only has 6 sheets. so it will do my front and some of rears..

i just need a guide.. im so lost..

Ok now how to install an amp easily into a 3rd Gen Magna.

Engine Bay:
·Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.
·Mount fuse holder in engine bay ready to run power cable to the battery. Make sure there is no fuse in the holder. Fuse holder should be no more than 30cm from the battery if possible.
·Attach the power wire from the fuse holder to the positive terminal.
·Get the remainder of the power wire ready to go through the grommet.
·Make a small and careful( read small ) cut in the rubbery bit of the grommet. Try and cut the flabby bit above the wires already going through. Use a blade of some sort. Take you time here before you try to cut.
·Lub up the end of the power cable with a spray that you want feed through( I use interior cleaner ha )
·Feed the power cable through the grommet, it will pop out the other side if you feed enough through in the passenger footwell.
·Attach the end in the engine bay the other end of the fuse holder and secure the power cable with cable ties.
·Attach the same size earthing cable to the chassis ready to attach to the negative side terminal when you are finished. Do not attach the negative terminal yet. This will be your earthing upgrade.

Inside the car:
·Remove the passenger door side plastics, if running cables to the boot, remove the drivers as well to run the RCA’s. Make sure for the front ones you undo the screw that is hiding in the kick panel, rears are simply held on with clips.
·Feel under the bottom of the back seat, there are 2 black pull-tabs on either side. Simply pull the tabs toward the engine by and lift the bottom of the seat out. This will make for easy access to the boot.
·To make life easy, take out the front seats. There are only 4 bolts holding them down. When you take them out, make sure the rear doors are shut ( I have seen so many scratched doors…. )
·Pull up the carpet and run the power cable that is popping out from the passenger foot well and run it down the passenger side to the boot. Do not secure it down yet.
·Run you blue remote turn on wire with the power cable to the boot with the power cable.
·If running speakers, run the speaker cable with the existing power / remote turn on cables as they wont effect the signal.
·Secure all these cables with cable ties and duck tape to ensure they do not move.
·The only other cables required in the car are the RCA cables. Run them down the driver side away from any power cables as best as possible. If you get decent RCA’s, even next to small runs of power cables they will not induce noise.
·Put everything back and the cables are now all in the boot.

In the boot:
·Now we are in the boot, try to run the cables cleverly. As best as possible keep the RCA’s away from the other cables. As I said before it is not a necessity.
·Find a good bolt that you can attach your earth cable to. You will be surprised how many bolts there are in the boot. Make sure you clean the area and sand back the paint to ensure a good solid connection. Try not to make the earth cable to long ( over 2m ).
·Attach all the cables and set the gains on the amp to nearly 0 or minimum.
·Once everything is set to go admire your good work.

Now to get the party started:
·Attach the negative wire with your newly added earthing upgrade to the battery.
·It’s now time to attach the fuse, everything now has power – exciting. To work out what size fuse you need, just add up all the fuses on your amps and add 10%. That is a decent size to run everything safely ( i.e. if you amps have 2x 25A and 1x 30A fuse, a 100A fuse near the battery would be perfect. )
·Turn on your cd player and get ready to begin tuning.
·Turn your EQ to flat, ensure all bass boost is off ( including the amp!! ) and that no loud, BBE, EX and anything else is either off or not activated.
·Turn the volume on the headunit to about ¾ ( eg if you headunit goes to 60, turn it up to 50 ). Fade and balance all set to 0.
·Turn the gains on the channels controlling the front speakers up first as they are the most important. Make sure the speaker do not distort, if they start distorting turn the gain down a little. As far as the HP filter goes, set it to about 100Hz and slowly work your way down until the speaker are clearly in uncomfortable territory. Usually 75-80Hz is a good spot on a 12db/oct filter.
·Turn up the gain controlling the rears to your liking. Ideally the fronts should always be a lot louder then the rears. Again HP the rears at about 100-150Hz as any low Hz should not be required by them. Major cancellation can occur with the rears, I ended up taking mine out and couldn’t have been happier.
·Now lastly the sub, turn this up to match the fronts, the idea is the have the sub sounding like it is mounted somewhere up the front. Again play with the LP on the amp, it will end up somewhere around the same as the fronts. This can however depend on the filter as well, usually your ears are the best judge. Don’t be afraid to reverse the phase of the sub to make sure it’s matched as best as possible to the fronts if you don’t have phase control.
·Now you should have your gains about right, play around with your EQ to fix any major troughs or peaks.
·Now you should be done and all set to go.

That is by no means the be all end all of how to put an amp in. I just found that after doing a few Magna's that was the easiest way. If attempting for the first time, give yourself at least 4-6hours to do this and take you time. After you do it a few times, it definately wont take as long. Any questions please ask as I may not have explained something well....

Good luck :D

very nice guide :D

wow. i actually think im going to give it a go...

but taking out my head unit and putting it back in SCARES ME

thanks so much!