What are recommended engine oils out there??

kev

Penrite, Pennzoil, Mobil 1, Shell Helix, Castrol,

all of the above are Quality Oils

how many Kms has your car done, and what sort of car is it?

I got a magna TH sports..
Done 84000 already, needs a service so was thinking of providing my own oils.

Kev

Thats cool,

on my last service i used Shell, i cant remember which one right now but i'll let you know soon,

Mobil 1 is a good grade synthetic oil if you wanna spend around the 50-60 mark.

Or even Penrite, Shell at around the $30 mark

It all comes down to just how much you wanna spend.l

Cheers
john

They're all good if you change them often (2000 - 3000 km)

Even the Mobil1 is made in an outside factory, then packed in their nice labeled packing and sold 5 times the price

YOu rank the oils by their marketing strategy, but has anybody ever tested all these brands to make a performance/reliability chart? No - because they are all almost the same - there is no big secret in producing good quality oils, is almost as selling sparkling water - which brand is best :)

one advice - never use an oil which guarantees 10,000 kms or more ......... it only needs one hard driving time to break all those little magic polimers that they're advertised for and then you'll have a straight 10 in your engine.

best syntethic oils are those with a small difference between the weight numbers (ie 10W30 --- 30-10=20 diference) that means it has less additives/polimers to make the oil "thinner" or "heavier" as the engine temperature respectively rises or decreases

so...... don't pay 10 times more the price of the oil only because it's heavily advertised and the packing is good looking (like Evian water :) )

They are all almost the same - there is no big secret in producing good quality oils,
So...... don't pay 10 times more the price of the oil only because it's heavily advertised and the packing is good looking
Gasp! Shock! Horror! You mean that Australia's Golden Voice, Mr. John Laws is lying when he says "Oils ain't oils"? :lol:

Maybe he's also lying when he says that there's no finer car than a Toyota. I guess I would too if they started throwing a few Lexus' at me. :lol: I'm such a sell-out.

[quote:d33a2bbc44="Arun"]They are all almost the same - there is no big secret in producing good quality oils,
So...... don't pay 10 times more the price of the oil only because it's heavily advertised and the packing is good looking
Gasp! Shock! Horror! You mean that Australia's Golden Voice, Mr. John Laws is lying when he says "Oils ain't oils"? :lol:

Maybe he's also lying when he says that there's no finer car than a Toyota. I guess I would too if they started throwing a few Lexus' at me. :lol: I'm such a sell-out.[/quote:d33a2bbc44]

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

John Laws hey, I guess if i was thrown enough money i would probably spin a lot of Bullshit as well. I think i speak for many others as well.

who the f--k is John Laws?

an aussie, lol

http://www.johnlaws.com.au/

not looking at price which would be the best oils??

Ok back to the topic, the best oils to go for would be The Full Synthetic type.

Penrite Synthetic,
Mobil 1 Synthetic (Full)
Shell Synthetic.

From memory the Penrite is around the $60 - $65 mark
Mobil $55 - $60 mark
Shell arround the $60 - $65 mark.

Don't hold me to the prices they are just guestimates,

Cheers
John

What weight number do i get?? or are they al the same for the Mobil 1 Synthetic (Full)??

that im not to sure on but what you need to get is around the 5/50w viscosity for an engine such as the magna 3.5ltr.

click on the below link, i hope this helps you.

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/mobil_au/datapage.asp?Section=1&Make=34&Model=766

cheers
john

Do not like mobil or shell. One good friend of mine who ran a shell for years once said may as well put sand in your engine lol

I have always either used Penrite or Penzoil.

Moreys oil is also a fantastic additive, it is a oil base additive, no chemical, I have seen engines that have been starved, although still needed attention the internals were surprisingly good concidering.

www.mobil1.com.au

http://www.epc.shell.com/hierarchy.asp?catalogueId=2&hierarchyId=1

www.penrite.com.au


hope this helps you.

thanks guys!!! didnt expect replies so fast!!!
will look into it tonight.

what other oils do i need??

do a search on engine oils in this forum. there are a few great articles printed out on this forum in the past that are quite insightful, though there are many points of view for those not in the technical know. i have tried a couple of branded engine oils and have put my ratings on this forum as well.

:roll: BEST is "CASTROL Synthetic" $70+ (a bottle), It's twice better then New Mobil 1 ,My neighbour work for BMW & they done test with oil’s. Mobil 1 is good only to 15 K , Castrol synt. Still good up to 25 K. don’t ask me how BMW done test, but that what he told me.

Just did a Google search and found this:

http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/index.html?menu.html&engineoil_bible.html

the interesting bit was.
[quote:3fe8aca19a]A couple of words of warning:

* If you've been driving around with mineral oil in your engine for years, don't switch to synthetic oil without preparation. Synthetic oils have been known to dislodge the baked-on deposits from mineral oils and leave them floating around your engine - not good. I learned this lesson the hard way! It's wise to use a flushing oil first.
* If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
* Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of sythetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurance, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless.[/quote:3fe8aca19a]

I Was wondering whart the best oil for the 3.5 is?

The reason i am asking is because i am currently using Mobil 1 thinking it is probably the best to be using. My car when warm at idle has very loud lifters or tappets whichever it is, loud enough to drown out the noise of the engine.

I have been reading through the forums and aparently this is common and some people are saying it is due to the oil grade.

Any advice on which oil is best for these engines and keeps them quiet?

The engine also piston slaps when cold at around 1200rpm which i have also heard is fairly common. Doesnt bother me that much because it goes when warm. Does this slapping effect the reliability of the engine at all? If not, then i can live with it.

I'm using Mobil1 as well and I have the same problem with the noisy tapets at idle - sounds like a diesel engine

I never tought it's the oil's fault though

I used 15W50 and 0W40 currently

have a look at this. Might help.

http://www.fastmagna.com/

Go to the technical section, then look at the topic "oils for 3.5 V6"

Just had a look in the manual for the car.

Have a look. Will help with what u should use.

Unless going in temps less than -10 Deg, then 20w - 40 looks the best. They also said, the higher you go in velosity numbers i.e. 50w, there is a possibility of higher fuel consumption.

20w - 40 looks about what everyone would be in. That is from -10 deg to past +50 deg. Temps being air temp, and not engine temps.

Been having a look through Oil companys including
mobil
castrol
valvoline
penrite
penzoil

and the only one that seems to be near what we want was the castrol GTX3 which has a rating of 15 to 40w. All the other companys either go from 5w - 40 or 20w - 50.

It is only a mineral oil though.

Does that really matter?? Do we really need synthetic??

I'm very interested to hear if anyone has any opinions on the usage of Castrol Magnatec for the TE 3.0lt motor?

It's 10W40 (from memory), so it should fit the viscosity bill. Is there any truth to the marketing spiel about some sort of adhesion of the oil to engine components reducing start-up wear?

It sounds like a good product, but hey maybe I'm just sucked in by the marketing department :D

I just want the best oil for y motor - that's all :bowrofl:

Cheers,

:clap:

I just put in penrite HPR10 and it works well!!
do not... DO NOT go synthetic.. or you'll have clapping problems with your car.
castrol GTX3 is used widely, but there are better ones out there.

kev

im using penrite HPR10. Seems to be good.

I am a penrite user too (HPR5.)

Been having a look through Oil companys including
mobil
castrol
valvoline
penrite
penzoil

and the only one that seems to be near what we want was the castrol GTX3 which has a rating of 15 to 40w. All the other companys either go from 5w - 40 or 20w - 50.

It is only a mineral oil though.

Does that really matter?? Do we really need synthetic??

I used to belive in synthetic religiously and there is not doubt they are good. But I would rather change my oil every 7,500 with something a little cheaper than leave my synthetic go for 15,000.

What are your thoughts?

Also, this may sound dumb, but what does the 20w - 50 mean? This i should know :rant:

Also, this may sound dumb, but what does the 20w - 50 mean? This i should know :rant:

It's a (relatively) new rating by the SAE, meaning dual rated oil viscosity for when at ambient temperature, and once it gets hot. When the engine's cold you need thin oil so it's easy to crank, and so it immediately gets to all the vital components. Once the engine is hot you need thicker oil or it will simply break down and not have any lubricating properties at all. Hence, a dual rating.

i have a question pretty similar to blakes one,

i have used mobil 1 synthetic this time , it cost a whoping $60+ (ithink ) i normally wait for 20%off at kmart to buy it.

so back to question, for a 7,500 k's service intervals which in may car is in around 5 months time or less its more than $120 for service.

no if i go to semi synthetic do i have to get complete engine flush ???? and what it exactly means.??? simply drain the old oil completly and put in new oil ????

cheers.

Where do i get the Penrite from ??

Is it mineral or synthetic ??

It seems from these discussions that Synthetic is not the way to go for the Magna engine.

I just put in penrite HPR10 and it works well!!
do not... DO NOT go synthetic.. or you'll have clapping problems with your car.
castrol GTX3 is used widely, but there are better ones out there.

kev


clapping problems??

Can you explain?

clapping problems.... well it was like, i've warmed the engine and all.. and just when i move the car, there are noises coming from the engine bay. it was more of a cluck cluck noise than clapping... (but they sound the same almost).. it happened after I put synthetic oils in.. Went and changed my oils to penrite HPR10 semi-syn and the clucking noises went away after awhile... If you read earlier in the thread, its got somthing to do with "rockets" or somthing.. like that.. dave TT talked about it.

kevin

it's only the sound or it does damage?

it's only the sound or it does damage?

no it will damage... or wear down in the end and cost heaps to replace.

kev

My father-inlaw is the technical director at Castrol and he has recommended I only use Castrol Magnatec in my TJ AWD.