Hey guys,

Well im starting to plan the next stage of my modifications for my car, iv got to fix the backfiring first, and organise insurance but thats all. I need to work out what i need to obtain for a safe engine but able to handle the performace i want. I already have installed a Haltech Miniceptor Kit, Bosch Super Sports leads, Thermo Block Gasket kit, 65mm High Flow TB, Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit, K & N Pod Filter, 2.5 inch Hi Flow Cat, Pacemaker Extractors, Magna flow Muffler, Port and polished heads, 262 degree duration cams, Strengthened Valve Springs, and Cam gears.

I am wanting to install a street fighter manifold, TH manual gear box, quick shifter, 10.1 compression forged pistons, and a 3 inch exhaust system. oh and some 380 brakes to stop me. :cool:

my questions are as follows:
should i get a heavy duty clutch as well?
if so any suggestions or experiences?
is a 3 inch exhaust all the way through to big with a middle muffler and hi flow cat and the performance parts i want?
is this kit sufficient and will i need to buy anything else to make it a safe engine ( http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ )? you will have to select mitsubishi, engine kits, high performace, then scroll down to section 11.
my last question is, do i need to get a full engine management system?

thanks mike

Sounds like a good mod-path to me. Manual conversion should be first on the list of things to do, the difference will be huge, both in terms of performance and the fun factor in driving the car.

Depending on your goals and budget, I'd also consider getting an LSD put into the box at the same time before it goes in, MUCH cheaper than pulling it out again to fir an LSD alter.

While the engine is apart to fit the 10:1 pistons, you may wish to consider getting some "bigger" cams, and getting the rods shotpeeneed and fitted with ARP rod bolts, depending on what kind of revs the cam profile demands.

As for the clutch, once again, you might as well, much cheaper to do it while everything is apart and outside of the car anyway. Personally, I'm very happy with my Exedy organic heavy duty. Not that much different to the OEM clutch in terms of driveability, but holds the power I'm making very well, and doesn't slip/smell at the drags like stock clutches do.

There's a never-ending list of things that you "might as well do while it's apart". It's up to you to decide where to draw the line.

As for management, I don't see why your miniceptor wouldn't be fine for the job.

When it comes to NA builds, the main limiting factor is often how good the headwork is, and whether it suits the cam profile you have built around. This is often a problem area because flowing modern multi-valve alloy heads is very complicated to get right, and there are alot of dudes who are cluey about old-school iron heads but have no idea when it comes to the modern alloy stuff.

Who did your heads? Do you have flowbench results and/or info on exactly what was done to them?

The head had the following work done:

cylinder heads stripped, acid dipped, port and polished intake and exhaust ports, cut valves and seats, 3 angle valve on seats and back cut valves, deburred of the combustion chamber, faced the cylinder heads to equal amount of both heads, set the valve heights.

i dont know if this answers your question but this is the only information i was given on them. hope this helps. i bought the replacement heads of rpw.

Hey guys,

Well im starting to plan the next stage of my modifications for my car, iv got to fix the backfiring first, and organise insurance but thats all. I need to work out what i need to obtain for a safe engine but able to handle the performace i want. I already have installed a Haltech Miniceptor Kit, Bosch Super Sports leads, Thermo Block Gasket kit, 65mm High Flow TB, Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit, K & N Pod Filter, 2.5 inch Hi Flow Cat, Pacemaker Extractors, Magna flow Muffler, Port and polished heads, 262 degree duration cams, Strengthened Valve Springs, and Cam gears.

I am wanting to install a TH manual gear box, quick shifter, 10.1 compression forged pistons, and a 3 inch exhaust system. oh and some 380 brakes to stop me. :cool:

my questions are as follows:
should i get a heavy duty clutch as well?
if so any suggestions or experiences?
is a 3 inch exhaust all the way through to big with a middle muffler and hi flow cat and the performance parts i want?
is this kit sufficient and will i need to buy anything else to make it a safe engine ( http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ )? you will have to select mitsubishi, engine kits, high performace, then scroll down to section 11.
my last question is, do i need to get a full engine management system?

thanks mike

Chisholm hit it on the head really, but a note with the clutches dont go for a too aggressive clutch as it can (will) destroy the gearbox, espically if you dump it at high rpm's. As for the gearbox, since they are resonably rare getting a TH one might be difficult.

A 3 inch zorst with 10.1 and a bit more headwork should be fine, go a 3.5inch cat, and 3 inch piping from the cat back with 2 reso's and a rear box (should keep the noise acceptable) and a 2.5inch flexi off your extractors.

Also factor in if you are going to be driving it in day to day traffic (stop start etc) as a big cam will be a dog in that sort of situation.

All up a budget of say around 8k will get you your pistons, ARP bolts, everything balanced and BP'ed bit more headwork, and gearbox (including labour) thats if you want a pro to do all of it, a lot of money can be spent if you can remove the motor/reinstall it yourself.

As for your backfiring issue, have you checked the TPS/ISC? and also the EGR?

maybe some decent extractors with tapered Tig welded merge collectors??

a fabrication shop would need, cam lift, cam duration @ .050, valve size, compression ratio, at least they would be able to calculate the appropriate size/length of the primaries, and the length of the taper into the merge collector..

expect to pay around the $1500 mark for a set hand fabricated TIG welded set of tuned length extractors to suit your engine build (not a generic off the shelf copy)... but i can tell you it will be worth every cent....

lengths and sizes have huge effects on the torque production of the engine.. for the limted number of places that do off the shelf ones for the magna's... the engine they work well on could be completely different to yours - for example pacemakers are designed to be good on a stock/mild engine.. ofcourse they can be drastically improved on keeping the same lengths as far as changing the collectors go.. for a stock engine.. but if you start putting bigger cams, more CR, porting the heads etc etc.. you would be suprised at the difference..

I dont know if this helps, but the information on my cams are as follows.

Adv Duration Intake: 262
Adv Duration Exhaust: 252
Duration at 0.05 intake: 218
Duration at 0.05 exhaust: 209
Valve lift intake: 0.343
Valve lift exhaust: 0.32
lobe Seperation: 115 degrees

maybe some decent extractors with tapered Tig welded merge collectors??

a fabrication shop would need, cam lift, cam duration @ .050, valve size, compression ratio, at least they would be able to calculate the appropriate size/length of the primaries, and the length of the taper into the merge collector..

expect to pay around the $1500 mark for a set hand fabricated TIG welded set of tuned length extractors to suit your engine build (not a generic off the shelf copy)... but i can tell you it will be worth every cent....

lengths and sizes have huge effects on the torque production of the engine.. for the limted number of places that do off the shelf ones for the magna's... the engine they work well on could be completely different to yours - for example pacemakers are designed to be good on a stock/mild engine.. ofcourse they can be drastically improved on keeping the same lengths as far as changing the collectors go.. for a stock engine.. but if you start putting bigger cams, more CR, porting the heads etc etc.. you would be suprised at the difference..

would a set of custom extractors, really be this effective, as i could spend alot more money on other things. 1500 seems a bit steep for extractors. has anyone had experience with this type of thing? what does everyone else run?

would a set of custom extractors, really be this effective, as i could spend alot more money on other things. 1500 seems a bit steep for extractors. has anyone had experience with this type of thing? what does everyone else run?

Yeah a lot of circuit cars go this method, as its tuned for the motor rather then a generic set, in your case if you put a bigger cam in then i would look into it, otherwise stick with the pacies for the time being.

thanks guys thats the type of information i was looking for, thats great, has anyone had any experiences in doing similar mods to this? and what brands did you use?

what type of figures do you think i will be looking at? 175kw ATW

thanks guys thats the type of information i was looking for, thats great, has anyone had any experiences in doing similar mods to this? and what brands did you use?

what type of figures do you think i will be looking at? 175kw ATW

Yeah with 10.1's and manual thats a good minimum figure to aim for, with a bigger cam probably 190 (manifold as well)

oh i cant forget, i am also planning to get a street fighter as well :)

oh i cant forget, i am also planning to get a street fighter as well :)

Awesome.

So, get your budget of how much you want to spend (be realistic about this) then sit down read through other NA build threads (cuthulu or whatever his name is) also speak to Jasonvrx he might not give you specifics but might give you a general idea on the path you should take.

Also once you have got your ground plan, go around to various shops and get prices on the work, there could be a saving by going to different mobs and having your machining done at various places if you are willing to do a bit of legwork and cart it around a bit. As i said before a lot of money can be saved if you can do some of the spanner work yourself.

well once next year starts i will be looking at getting a full time job, since i am finishing uni this year. so the funds will start to roll in, and i will have a better idea on when im free, this will also allow me to do some running around an researching. thats why i thought i would start by coming on here, as you guys helped me out heaps thus far in hetting my engine work done. even though most said go manual first hehe, dont worry it is coming, this year i concentrated on visual mods instead of performance. next year there will be a few visuals but mainly performance.

well once next year starts i will be looking at getting a full time job, since i am finishing uni this year. so the funds will start to roll in, and i will have a better idea on when im free, this will also allow me to do some running around an researching. thats why i thought i would start by coming on here, as you guys helped me out heaps thus far in hetting my engine work done. even though most said go manual first hehe, dont worry it is coming, this year i concentrated on visual mods instead of performance. next year there will be a few visuals but mainly performance.

Sounds good, just budget yourself accordingly and allow for blowouts for this sort of work.

i dont really want to spend more then 8 G.

the car isnt going to be used for the track, it will be used on the other hand for the odd drag race.

i am thinking roughly

2K for manual conversion kit
1K for heavy duty clutch
200 for quick shifter
1200 for piston kit (including gaskets etc...)
800 for intake plenum
1100 for exhaust
2K for labour and tuning

how does that sound?

how much does it cost to get the rods shot peened?

Dont waste $1500 on "hand" built extractors (way too overkill for a magna), that money is way better spent on decent pistons, balancing etc etc.

The pacemakers do a good enough job for what they are worth, hell i think ive proven that over the last few years :) Oh a good 2 1/2" exhaust is fine for a NA 3.5L up to around 250 flywheel kws.
On my car i have the pacemakers going into a 3" flex joint then 3" pipe to a 3" inlet outlet spun metal cat then it steps down to 2 1/2" mandral bent piping with 2 resonators and a magnaflow 6" round X 18" long (body length) rear muffler and no its not a bloody cannon either lol

i dont really want to spend more then 8 G.

the car isnt going to be used for the track, it will be used on the other hand for the odd drag race.

i am thinking roughly

2K for manual conversion kit
1K for heavy duty clutch
200 for quick shifter
1200 for piston kit (including gaskets etc...)
800 for intake plenum
1100 for exhaust
2K for labour and tuning

how does that sound?

how much does it cost to get the rods shot peened?

Id take the HD clutch out of its own and put into conversion, and they are 700 bucks if you pay more then that you are getting ripped, and put that money into the piston kit, slugs (ACL pajero ones) are around 600 with rings, then you have bottom end bearings + hone + rebore if its shot.

Also add full balance and blueprint as well to your list, should be around 500-800 give or take.

Dont waste $1500 on "hand" built extractors (way too overkill for a magna), that money is way better spent on decent pistons, balancing etc etc.

The pacemakers do a good enough job for what they are worth, hell i think ive proven that over the last few years :) Oh a good 2 1/2" exhaust is fine for a NA 3.5L up to around 250 flywheel kws.
On my car i have the pacemakers going into a 3" flex joint then 3" pipe to a 3" inlet outlet spun metal cat then it steps down to 2 1/2" mandral bent piping with 2 resonators and a magnaflow 6" round X 18" long (body length) rear muffler and no its not a bloody cannon either lol


totally agree.... will get more than enough flow from 2.5in mandrel pipe.

So... 2.5 inch flex pipe, 2.5 inch pipe, 3inch hi flow cat, 2.5 inch pipe, 3 inch middle muffler, 2.5 inch, then rear muffler.

what would be the main difference from this to the 3 inch version?

as i have had two tuners work on my car and both have said that the main thing that is restricting atm is that exhaust.

So... 2.5 inch flex pipe, 2.5 inch pipe, 3inch hi flow cat, 2.5 inch pipe, 3 inch middle muffler, 2.5 inch, then rear muffler.

what would be the main difference from this to the 3 inch version?

as i have had two tuners work on my car and both have said that the main thing that is restricting atm is that exhaust.

If your car was force inducted then 3" would be the go for sure.

As i said before, go from the flange on the "Y" pipe of the extractors thru a 3" flex then 3" pipe to a 3" cat (spun metal cat is the better one to get) then stepping down to 2 1/2" from there back because as the gases cool they contract so the further ya get from the engine the less importance there is on 3" pipe/muffler combos, unless the car is force inducted or is of big cubic capacity as they push a lot more gasses out.

98% of places will feed you crap cos they want to "upsell" you something that will beef up theres or a mates bottom line.

A 3" exhaust with straight thru mufflers on a NA V6 magna will be droney and loud (although if ya added enough mufflers to the 3" itd be quiet but then it'll be restricted in flow and cost $$$)

At the end of the day if you have a good free flowing (straight thru mufflers etc) 2 1/2" setup from the "cat" back already then why waste money on changing it for little gain? Get the front part correct (extractors up to and including the cat) and then see how the rest works out.

The above is just my opinion though.

Oh and the main thing restricting your car at the moment is the bloody power sapping auto trans lol

If your car was force inducted then 3" would be the go for sure.

As i said before, go from the flange on the "Y" pipe of the extractors thru a 3" flex then 3" pipe to a 3" cat (spun metal cat is the better one to get) then stepping down to 2 1/2" from there back because as the gases cool they contract so the further ya get from the engine the less importance there is on 3" pipe/muffler combos, unless the car is force inducted or is of big cubic capacity.

98% of places will feed you crap cos they want to "upsell" you something that will beef up theres or a mates bottom line.

A 3" exhaust on a NA V6 magna will be droney and loud (although if ya added enough mufflers to the 3" itd be quiet but then it'll be restricted in flow and cost $$$)

At the end of the day if you have a good free flowing (straight thru mufflers etc) 2 1/2" setup from the "cat" back already then why waste money on changing it for little gain? Get the front part correct (extractors up to and including the cat) and then see how the rest works out.

The above is just my opinion though.

Oh and the main thing restricting your car at the moment is the bloody power sapping auto trans lol

ok thanks mate. this is the type of thing i wanted to know, and its from a person not trying to sell me something lol. ok time for a noob question but whats the difference between a hi flow cat and a spun metal cat?

ok thanks mate. this is the type of thing i wanted to know, and its from a person not trying to sell me something lol. ok time for a noob question but whats the difference between a hi flow cat and a spun metal cat?


I do custom exhausts aswell and i say its not worth it unless FI....

The diff between the hi flow and a spun metalcat is... The spun is a one piece cat no welds. it also has larger holes in the metal core. Better flow due to the tapering of the body. perfectly round

sorry for bad pics just took em

there is a gain to be had with modifying the pacemakers.. particularly the collectors.. they are just bash collectors.. merge collectors are the way to go!! i've got a base line dyno reading of 158hp @ wheels... we will soon soo how merge collectors make a difference.. i will return to the dyno sooon, and i've even put the stock air filter and air box back in..

I do custom exhausts aswell and i say its not worth it unless FI....
You lost me a bit here mate. What's not worth it? The high flow cat? Or a spun metal cat??

most of the stuff i see that benifits massivly from tuned length systems and collector design and angles/lengths/tapers is some tough big cube V8 stuff.. (some netted close to 100hp increase just from ditching a set of pacemakers, and using a fabricated set with tapered merge collectors (using formula, not just bigger is better etc))

but having said that.. anything will benifit from a decent collector design.. some more than others.. just look at all the highly strung VVT & lift stuff now.. for example..

buy an average new style celica.. with the 2ZZGE, (1.8 VVTL-i 141kw engine) makes around 135hp @ wheels depending on the dyno and car.. most seem to be about that stock..

a place in the US does pre fabricated merged 4-2-1 style 'race' extractors to thier formula.. i've helped fit 3 sets, and then done the typical spun metal cat, and 2.5" mandril system with a few nice mufflers (no cannons thank god)

they return to the dyno - net 160-165hp@ wheels..

imported 'race headers' from the US about $900 AU landed for these.. close to 30hp @ the wheels...... mate you can't argue with that.....

i'll see if i can find a link for these.. but the same formula's for pipe length and dia and the merge collector dimentions can be applied to anything..

http://www.ppeengineering.com/assets/Documents/CelicaHeaderInstall.pdf

thats the installation guide you get with them.. the main website is down or under construction.. it's a place in the US.. but i just wanted to get the idea and the mental pitcure.. of what i'm talking about with a fabricated set of extractors (yanks call them headers) with merge collectors look like

see the picture of the merge collector.. 4 pipes.. spliced, and tig welded all the way down, that is a tapered merge collector.. that is where the gas veloccity and torque is produced, the lengths and primary dimentions gives you where the 'band' will be.. the collector is welded to a big point on the inside that doesn't just stop at the end of the primary either it comes right down into the collector..

i'm going to be altering the lengths of my pacie's, and adding 3 merge collectors, rather than using the bash collectors they come with.. not alot of ppl delv this far into exhaust fabrication.. as it is quite labour intensive..

some one who does - Craig @ Extreme Custom Engineering (brisbane) 0412 432 546

(never used the stock exhaust like the pictures suggest, always have done a full system after installing a set, so there would obviously be helping the dyno readouts over stock)

sounds like i would get more power out of replacing the extractors then the pistons?

although i would of thought this would only work on high performance vehicles and v8's.

this is something to surely think about if those figures are correct, although i think i will stick with the pacies for now, but if i ever have a lazy grand lieing around, this would be something to do i think.:cool:

here is a bit of a write up on something similar.. collector/ extractor design can affect the whole engine.. keep in mind this isn't even using merge collectors! just bash collectors

this is a very mild small block write up..

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0712_383_chevy_smalll_block_with_33_more_hors epower/index.html

and a pic of what a cut away merge collector looks like (you all know what a pressed cone/bash collector looks like)

http://www.spdexhaust.com/images/Secondary/Collector/MC/Cut-a-way.jpg

Lenda - do your pistons bigger cams etc etc..

then see if anyone in your area can do anything like this.. i don't know of more than a hand full of places in QLD that do it.. so see how you go with it..

if you can get the calculations right.. you will be suprised.. there is a reason why the M department of BMW, the AMG wing of Merc, ferrari, lambo, even the new ford GT has trick merge collectors on all thier masterpeices..

thanks for that mate. even if i dont use it, it is very useful for anyone else wanting to mod there car but not open up there engine and it has given me something to think about.

Well obviously the pacemaker headers havn't been limiting my engines! :gtfo:

Hell both the new engine at 236Kws@wheels and the old engine with 244Kws@wheels used STOCK pacemakers, the only minor mod being a 3" flange plate on the "Y" pipe so i could run 3" pipe to my 3" flex joint etc, oh and the ports at the start of each pipe/runner have been match ported to my heads.

In my opinion spending $$$ on custom/heavily modded headers for a NA 3.5L magna is lol the money is better spent elsewhere within the engine/drivetrain but as i said thats just my opinion

Lenda - do your pistons bigger cams etc etc..

then see if anyone in your area can do anything like this.. i don't know of more than a hand full of places in QLD that do it.. so see how you go with it..

if you can get the calculations right.. you will be suprised.. there is a reason why the M department of BMW, the AMG wing of Merc, ferrari, lambo, even the new ford GT has trick merge collectors on all thier masterpeices..

Yes but your buying a car worth lots of dollars and ones that have either a large capacity engine with a SC or a high revving V8/V10/V12 engine with all the latest engine gizmos on them.

Where as all we have is a modest 3.0/3.5L V6 magna engine with SOHC and 4valves per cylinder with no added features.

The stock camshafts and lowish compression are some of the biggest power killers in a NA magna, you can do all the breathing mods you like but the stock cams will still fall over after 5200rpm, they are just so mild its not funny.

You lost me a bit here mate. What's not worth it? The high flow cat? Or a spun metal cat??


Sorry i was talkin bout the 3'' exhaust, not needed unless forced induction!... Yes replace the cat with a 2.5-3' hi flow unit. this will be of benifit.

Well obviously the pacemaker headers havn't been limiting my engines! :gtfo:

Hell both the new engine at 236Kws@wheels and the old engine with 244Kws@wheels used STOCK pacemakers, the only minor mod being a 3" flange plate on the "Y" pipe so i could run 3" pipe to my 3" flex joint etc, oh and the ports at the start of each pipe/runner have been match ported to my heads.

In my opinion spending $$$ on custom/heavily modded headers for a NA 3.5L magna is lol the money is better spent elsewhere within the engine/drivetrain but as i said thats just my opinion

all i'm saying is that everyone spends mega $$ everywhere else, cams, pistons, headwork, ecu, manifold etc etc.. but seem to just not be interested in investing in some extractors to suit their application, rather than a generic off the shelf set designed pretty much for a stock engine.. i'm not saying that your going to get a million HP from this one modification.. but i can tell you know that if you yourself had something like this made for your car built to specs for your engine you could increase the efficiency a fair bit, and ultimatley increase your output - not that 236kw@wheels isn't enough already ofcourse!!

i know that it seems like a bit of a waste of money.. but with some of the prices people were throwing around to have a set of pacemakers fitted is just rediculous! i think i read somewhere someone paid $1400 drive in drive out for a set of pacies fitted.. i nearly fell off my chair!!!!!


and in relation to the 6G74 SOHC 4 valves per cyl not being a whiz bang hi-tech engine etc etc..

well i'll give you another example.. 3.8L VN ecotec with a pod filter and a set of Pacemakers made an extra 18rwkw, JUST with taking off the 3 bash collectors and fabricating merge collectors in thier place.. same dyno, 2 days after the first run.. lengths unchanged.. just collectors.. same exhaust etc etc.. and that is a dirty dirty pushrod 2 valves per cylinder tractor engine with the worlds most simplest efi systems...

it also seems to work pretty good with the V8 pushrod, 2 valve, steel headed 40's-50's V8's to quad cam 4.0L 1UZ-FE toyota v8's...

my old 20v 4AGE, using the stock 4-2-1's changed them to mergies.. picked up 11fwhp, and broader torque, thanks to mergies... that was completly stock also...

just be open minded..

pacemakers are by no mean the be-all and end all of extractor technology..

just be open minded..

pacemakers are by no mean the be-all and end all of extractor technology..

Did i say they were? NO i didnt

All im saying is for an off the shelf V6 magna extractor they are good enough, hell the $380 i payed for my set has been worth it and i cant see the worth of dicking around wasting extra money on things that already work well on our cars..... At the end of the day if people want to spend money on modified collectors then go for it but i know better areas where id be spending my money (and yes im a tightass when it comes to modding a magna).

Oh and i sure wouldnt like to have a set of expensive fancy "collectors" all scraped and dented up like my pacemakers, the front lower collector gets a hammering on my car.

I tell you what, you pay for/give me a set of merge collected extractors and i'll back to back test them. :D

Oh and one other thing the pacemakers didnt make a great deal more top end on the first heavily worked NA V6 i built when compared against the stock NAS (98 US diamante) tubular manifolds with modified engine pipe that i also tried, but the pacemakers gave a nice midrange boost right where i wanted it (3000-4800rpm).

Now lets get back on topic of NA mods (besides bloody extractors :))

my only suggestion would be go an exedy cushioned button clutch, maybe xtreme make one similar i'm not sure. For memory mine was 7-800 bucks and it gives you awesome driveability around town and iy hooks up hard when you drop the clutch at the track or a spirited red light GP

Is it just me but why are people arguing with the someone who managed to get 2 magna engines running 240kw ATW N/A power??

No wonder not many people have high powered 3.5L's cause too many ppl here are worried about parras and clear side indicators, then have the nerve to shoot down the person who actually knows what he is talking about!!

Maybe some people need to do more SFTU and my advice is to listen to what Jason's VRX has to say.

If all he used was standard paccies, good on him for not wasting his money on custom made ones.

100% agreed that money can be better spent else where, especially for N/A.

Is it just me but why are people arguing with the someone who managed to get 2 magna engines running 240kw ATW N/A power??

No wonder not many people have high powered 3.5L's cause too many ppl here are worried about parras and clear side indicators, then have the nerve to shoot down the person who actually knows what he is talking about!!

Maybe some people need to do more SFTU and my advice is to listen to what Jason's VRX has to say.

If all he used was standard paccies, good on him for not wasting his money on custom made ones.

100% agreed that money can be better spent else where, especially for N/A.

As ive said many times before in other threads on here, the pacemakers arnt the "greatest" but they work and work well for the cost. On other makes of cars they maybe crap but as we all know, what works on one make of car doesnt mean its going to work on a magna.

Hell i had long discussions with so called engine "gurus" a few years back when i built my first engine and what they told me to do didnt work! So i went out on a limb and trialed things myself and hit a combo that i know now works and has since made these people realise that what worked for there 2valve pushrod V6/V8's didnt work on a multi valved 3.5 magna engine.
Hell i even had one engine builder tell me that DOHC 3.5 pajero wouldnt work cos theyd hit the valves....... :bowrofl:

I agree, it's all about bang for your buck. For the price custom units cost, the money can be spent else where for better gains. If you ran out of things to do then yes, go ahead and get custom extractors and what not.

I agree, it's all about bang for your buck. For the price custom units cost, the money can be spent else where for better gains. If you ran out of things to do then yes, go ahead and get custom extractors and what not.

Totally agree with ya there.

Anyway im gunna shut up now, keep my opinions to myself and watch this thread to see what others have to say. :)

P.S. I really love these threads as about 3 maybe 4 of us have actually got high hp NA magnas and a even smaller number have actually done all the work themselves.

Jasons VRX, how much do you charge for one of these 244kw@wheels setups? lol

Serious...maybe :redface:

Jasons VRX, how much do you charge for one of these 244kw@wheels setups? lol

Serious...maybe :redface:

I build mine as a bit of a hobby hence why they take so damn long for me to finish lol plus i dont need the magna to drive as ive got 2 other cars, so i can afford to leave it off the road for as long as i want. Hell ive only got it back on the road at the start of September and already i havnt driven it for 4 weeks :shock:

As ive said before, labour is a good third of the costs and sourcing the parts direct can also save $$$.

Jasons VRX, how much do you charge for one of these 244kw@wheels setups? lol

Serious...maybe :redface:

Would be wayyy more then you would think it would be, he has done it resonably cheap because he did a lot of the work and R&D himself, my rough guestimate to get a workshop to do it, looking at around 10-15k give or take.

Would be wayyy more then you would think it would be, he has done it resonably cheap because he did a lot of the work and R&D himself, my rough guestimate to get a workshop to do it, looking at around 10-15k give or take.

Ive never actually sat down and worked it all out but yes if you got a workshop to do all the work, there labour charge alone would have to be around at least $80+ per hr

The worst part about building a unique/different engine is all the fit and remove sessions that have to be done to make sure all is right. My last engine i had to put it basically all together, measure clearances etc then pull it all apart again, that is the time consuming labour part.

Ive never actually sat down and worked it all out but yes if you got a workshop to do all the work, there labour charge alone would have to be around at least $80+ per hr

The worst part about building a unique/different engine is all the fit and remove sessions that have to be done to make sure all is right. My last engine i had to put it basically all together, measure clearances etc then pull it all apart again, that is the time consuming labour part.

Ands thats how big build's such as yours should be done, none of this wack it all together jobs ive seen in the past.

P.S. I really love these threads as about 3 maybe 4 of us have actually got high hp NA magnas and a even smaller number have actually done all the work themselves.

Well unfortunately we are not all able to do the same (for whatever reason), even if the will is there. :) Still doesn't mean we don't understand the concept behind what needs to be done.

POST edited..

i just can't be bothered posting anymore.. it's obvious that i havn't got my NA verada up to the power you guys have, and arn't worthy of input..

Totally agree with ya there.

Anyway im gunna shut up now, keep my opinions to myself and watch this thread to see what others have to say. :)

P.S. I really love these threads as about 3 maybe 4 of us have actually got high hp NA magnas and a even smaller number have actually done all the work themselves.

Can you please not keep your opinions to your self, i am all ears, as yourself and a few others helped me choose out my cams for my auto and it turned out to be great. now im deciding to go manual, i would like to have the same help, which you have done so, and i thank you and everyone so far who has contributed, even you matty.c, i know what your saying, there is potential there, but i would rather spend my money in the engine.

with 10.1 compression pistons, is it worth getting 10.1 forged pistons like on the website i posted in the first place, or get pajero pistons or something?

where do people source there parts (eg: clutch) straight from the brands website or do they go to a local supplier. just making a few phone calls today, i have found that suppliers are the best bet if you can get them of them. i rang around a few performance shops, as soon as i say magna, there like nah sorry we dont have anything for them. any suggestions?

Can you please not keep your opinions to your self, i am all ears, as yourself and a few others helped me choose out my cams for my auto and it turned out to be great. now im deciding to go manual, i would like to have the same help, which you have done so, and i thank you and everyone so far who has contributed, even you matty.c, i know what your saying, there is potential there, but i would rather spend my money in the engine.

with 10.1 compression pistons, is it worth getting 10.1 forged pistons like on the website i posted in the first place, or get pajero pistons or something?

where do people source there parts (eg: clutch) straight from the brands website or do they go to a local supplier. just making a few phone calls today, i have found that suppliers are the best bet if you can get them of them. i rang around a few performance shops, as soon as i say magna, there like nah sorry we dont have anything for them. any suggestions?

No point for forgies, NA you dont have anywhere near the amount of pressure that FI cars have cylinder wise, yeah most local auto shops will be the go, get written itemised quotes and pitch it to other shops to get your best price.

Try to stay away from "him" if you can as his prices are pretty high compared to other auto shops/websites these days.

can u go higher comp than 10:1? is it worth going higher to get better results while the car is apart

is there any disadvantages of going 11:1 compression? i just thought 10:1 was the go, but if you or someone would like to fill me in, go for it, as i said early im happy to listen and learn, as i know some stuff about this, but i wont say im a professional.

is there any disadvantages of going 11:1 compression? i just thought 10:1 was the go, but if you or someone would like to fill me in, go for it, as i said early im happy to listen and learn, as i know some stuff about this, but i wont say im a professional.

Talk to Jasonsvrx directly about this one, he has 11.1 atm

is there any disadvantages of going 11:1 compression? i just thought 10:1 was the go, but if you or someone would like to fill me in, go for it, as i said early im happy to listen and learn, as i know some stuff about this, but i wont say im a professional.
put it this way, my mates 6L commodore runs 10.7:1 standard comp so i dont see why we cant run the same. also the bugger is running 1 12psi GT40 on the bastard so its scary as all ****

You must be careful with a high static comp ratio in that you must run a high RON or MON (depending on fuel type) to keep knock or pinking at bay,but you must also make sure that you can set the timing to the correct figure before reaching detonation,as there is no point having a big comp if you cannot advance the timing enough to suit the rest of the engine combo etc

Steve

put it this way, my mates 6L commodore runs 10.7:1 standard comp so i dont see why we cant run the same. also the bugger is running 1 12psi GT40 on the bastard so its scary as all ****

Hmm i thought the 6L VE's ran 10.4:1 comp from factory.

http://www.holden.com.au/pdf/chooseavehicle/techdata/CommodoreTechData.pdf

Just got to remember that the newer cars have knock sensors so they can get away with the stock hi comp as the knock retard will wind back the timing if a bad batch of petrol is put in the car, the late model magna doesnt have that option so getting a good tune is absolutly required if your going to run anymore than 10:1 comp in our cars.

Having said that the 11:1 comp of my engine is fine, i currently have it maped for 95 octane fuel but once tighe get around to fixing my cams up, then the car will be remapped for 98 octane.
The one big advantage of the 11:1 with the baby cams currently in the car is the massive throttle response and low/midrange pull the car has, the few people ive taken in the car have been very impressed.... that will change once the big sticks are fitted though.

ok here is the revised plan:

5 Speed gear box 2K
Quick Shifter 200
Heavy duty clutch 800
Street fighter manifold 800
11.1 Pistons ???
Custom exhaust (3 inch flex, 3 inch pipe, 3 inch cat, 2.5 inch pipe, 2 resonators and my magnaflow twin tip muffler) 1100

how does that sound? am i missing anything? i dont really want to start replacing rods and cranks as my budget wont stretch much further then the prices named above, would 11.1 require new rods and cranks, if so i will just go with 10.1.

ok here is the revised plan:

5 Speed gear box 2K
Quick Shifter 200
Heavy duty clutch 800
Street fighter manifold 800
11.1 Pistons ???
Custom exhaust (3 inch flex, 3 inch pipe, 3 inch cat, 2.5 inch pipe, 2 resonators and my magnaflow twin tip muffler) 1100

how does that sound? am i missing anything? i dont really want to start replacing rods and cranks as my budget wont stretch much further then the prices named above, would 11.1 require new rods and cranks, if so i will just go with 10.1.

Isn't the budget for the custom exhaust a bit generous?? I would have thought it would cost around $600

Ollie

short shifter you can make your self follow this guide

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=234827&postcount=28

Isn't the budget for the custom exhaust a bit generous?? I would have thought it would cost around $600

Ollie


You would budget anywhere upto $2000 for a custom stainless exhaust...

$280 for Hi flow 3'' cat s/s
$250-$300 Hi flow Magnaflow 2.5'' rear mffler s/s
$250 Lukey 6'' Round center Muffler s/s
$70 Flex s/s
+ s/s pipework around $500!

this is not including fitting or extractors...

how much would aditional tuning be??
100 a hour??
how many hours? just something to think about also..

how much would aditional tuning be??
100 a hour??
how many hours? just something to think about also..
Allow anywhere up for and beyond $2000 for tuning:cry:

']Allow anywhere up for and beyond $2000 for tuning:cry:

Does that include a blow job?

Or you just taking it up the ass?

Does that include a blow job?

Or you just taking it up the ass?
:shock:
Err i'll stick with tuning for now:P
Thats how much I'm budgeting, dont wanna be left with a huge bill and no money to pay for it.

Depending on your tuner, you might just be left with enough cash for a plasma :)

You would budget anywhere upto $2000 for a custom stainless exhaust...

$280 for Hi flow 3'' cat s/s
$250-$300 Hi flow Magnaflow 2.5'' rear mffler s/s
$250 Lukey 6'' Round center Muffler s/s
$70 Flex s/s
+ s/s pipework around $500!

this is not including fitting or extractors...

True, but he already has the Magnaflow muffler, and dont believe he is planning extractors, at least at this stage (not on the list). That makes it come to around $600, but your right if he chooses stainless steel that price is gonna shoot up a lot. Never really seen the point of s/s apart from durability?

Ollie

True, but he already has the Magnaflow muffler, and dont believe he is planning extractors, at least at this stage (not on the list). That makes it come to around $600, but your right if he chooses stainless steel that price is gonna shoot up a lot. Never really seen the point of s/s apart from durability?

Ollie

that is true i dont need a rear muffler nor do i need the extractors. anyone who does exhaust work, can you let me know how the system i mentioned above would cost?

True, but he already has the Magnaflow muffler, and dont believe he is planning extractors, at least at this stage (not on the list). That makes it come to around $600, but your right if he chooses stainless steel that price is gonna shoot up a lot. Never really seen the point of s/s apart from durability?

Ollie


Fair enough then, if you notice i didnt add extractors to the price.

S/S is best for cars that sit , or only get driven once a week. as they wont rust out and have to be replaced every 2 yrs.

It also has better heat properties. IE the pipe stay's hot so you get increased gas velocity due to more heat in the pipe. .

Ok now resonators are between $50-$100 ea.. cheap 3' cat $240 3' flex $70 and all pipework would be about $350-$500 for mandrel mild steel

if you have mags that are too big it will slow your car down

if you have mags that are too big it will slow your car down

thats only if they are heavy, but yes i know!

where is the best place to get 11.1 pistons, i found a few places that do 10:1 or 10.5:1, but not 11:1?

is there much difference between 10;1 or 10.5;1 or 11;1?

how much does pinshoting the rods cost as i have done some searching on getting new ones, and they seems to cost over 1000 bucks?

should i upgrade my injectors and fuel pump? if so, to what?

is it hard or expensive to rebore the engine block?

thanks for your helps thus far.

Hey,

More than pistons play a roll in determening comp ratio,head cc`s and chamber size,deck height etc all add up to come to the final number which will never be spot on 10.5 or whatever,do get the highest rated ones available and maybe deck the block to 0 deck height and maybe shave the heads (this all depends if these engines are tolerable of no quench area or room for the rods to possibly stretch if you rev the ring out of it lol!) to bring the comp ratio up where you want it,just remember,you can only take so much meat off heads etc without running into probs

Rebores and part and parcel with a rebuild or new pistons as they may be oversize and need the bore taken out tpo accomadate them and also to provide a nice crosshatch pattern on the bores for the new rings to bed into/onto

Ring a machine shop etc for shotpeening prices,havent had it done for bloody years!

Cheers steve

Hey,

More than pistons play a roll in determening comp ratio,head cc`s and chamber size,deck height etc all add up to come to the final number which will never be spot on 10.5 or whatever,do get the highest rated ones available and maybe deck the block to 0 deck height and maybe shave the heads (this all depends if these engines are tolerable of no quench area or room for the rods to possibly stretch if you rev the ring out of it lol!) to bring the comp ratio up where you want it,just remember,you can only take so much meat off heads etc without running into probs

Rebores and part and parcel with a rebuild or new pistons as they may be oversize and need the bore taken out tpo accomadate them and also to provide a nice crosshatch pattern on the bores for the new rings to bed into/onto

Ring a machine shop etc for shotpeening prices,havent had it done for bloody years!

Cheers steve

The 5 3.5L engines ive built up have all had only 2-5thou deck height, that was with stock untouched deck blocks. I also dont shave down the heads as id rather use correct pistons and do it properly, hell if ya tearing the engine down to do a good rebuild why use "backyard" techniques to up the comp.

Actually there was one 3.5 that we did build (when i was at MMAL) where we took a combined 1.2mm of the heads and block and then used stock NAS pistons (different shaped bowl etc) to acheive the ralliart prototype 10:1 comp engine, doing this also meant the lower inlet plenum needed 0.6mm taken off each side so that it sat correctly in the "V".
It was a lot of stuffing round just to get the comp up, the second high comp version we built used the DOHC pajero pistons to get the 10:1 but then as we all know MMAL management demanded that the ralliart magna must run on 91octane fuel so that limited it to 9.4:1 and the rest as they say is history.

Oh and lenda 1 thing.... make sure they "volume" check each combustion chamber of each head, as ive found up to 3cc in volume difference between biggest and smallest on some pair of magna V6 heads.

The heads for my new engine had just on 3cc difference between the 6 chambers and these were on brand new "bare" ralliart castings that i had left over from my MMAL days.

So what combo are you running to get your 11.0:1?,my advice on decking of heads and block was only a suggestion if he must hit a certain number,i realise this isnt ideal though as stated,but yes,was common place with the V8 boys not long back with limited knowledge and parts etc,thats where my train of thought was!

So is there much to be had in the way of power and torque gains with timing increases throughout the rev range if tuned for 98 octane in say my TW VRX Jason?

Ta
steve

So what combo are you running to get your 11.0:1?,my advice on decking of heads and block was only a suggestion if he must hit a certain number,i realise this isnt ideal though as stated,but yes,was common place with the V8 boys not long back with limited knowledge and parts etc,thats where my train of thought was!

So is there much to be had in the way of power and torque gains with timing increases throughout the rev range if tuned for 98 octane in say my TW VRX Jason?

Ta
steve

Im running custom 11:1 slugs but the actual compression worked out to a tad more than that in the end once all was dummy fitted and measured up etc.

There will be a bit more low to midrange torque to be gained and a touch more overall power from timing increases in a stock sports/vrx (or any 3rd gen V6 magna for that matter) for 98 octane but its better if the timing increases are combined with adjustments to the fueling as well.

i rang up a few mechanics told them what i want to do, said replace injectors and fuel pump, to be safe, but couldnt recomend what size injectors. any opinions on here. with 10.5:1 pistons my mechanic friend suggested i might get something around 180 with a good tune. although was nervous about doing the work, because he is more of a holden and ford mechanic and old school mechanic. so im trying to find someone who is a bit more confident.

looking at getting 380 injectors, will these be suitable?

looking at getting 380 injectors, will these be suitable?
That's what I am about to fit. Be aware though that it is my understanding that the 380's are no greater in cc. It's their diff spray pattern that offers more compete combustion that provides the (minimal) gain

i was informed that the stock are 275cc and these are 305cc.

i was informed that the stock are 275cc and these are 305cc.

Thats correct, confirmed by MMAL when another member asked them, they are a bosch unit so, if you get the part no any bosch retailer should be able to get them no issues, but for that sort of cost you could look at the 470's from Tim, shouldnt be any harder to tune and gives you a tonne of headroom if you ever go FI

Hi Jason, you are such a wealth of knowledge on the magna 3.5L Engine I wish I knew as much as you ..... what was your actual job title at MMAL ? You must have been working along side Rod Campbell to have the knowledge you do ? you didn't tell me you where the pistons and cylinder head specialist & engine tuner at MMAL.... you should broadcast that in your profile.




As ive said many times before in other threads on here, the pacemakers arnt the "greatest" but they work and work well for the cost. On other makes of cars they maybe crap but as we all know, what works on one make of car doesnt mean its going to work on a magna.

Hell i had long discussions with so called engine "gurus" a few years back when i built my first engine and what they told me to do didnt work! So i went out on a limb and trialed things myself and hit a combo that i know now works and has since made these people realise that what worked for there 2valve pushrod V6/V8's didnt work on a multi valved 3.5 magna engine.
Hell i even had one engine builder tell me that DOHC 3.5 pajero wouldnt work cos theyd hit the valves....... :bowrofl:

Hi Jason, you are such a wealth of knowledge on the magna 3.5L Engine I wish I knew as much as you ..... what was your actual job title at MMAL ? You must have been working along side Rod Campbell to have the knowledge you do ? you didn't tell me you where the pistons and cylinder head specialist & engine tuner at MMAL.... you should broadcast that in your profile.

Are you trying to have a dig at me Chris???? :shock: and then people wonder WHY i dont tell them everything i know.

For your info, Yes i worked with rockin Rod for a while (mainly during the early ralliart development), i gained abit of my knowledge from making sure i was always around when he tried anything new and also from actually having my own magna to modify and test/trial some of R&D's engineering parts on it.

Ive found the best way to gain knowledge is to actually get in and do things (and yes i did stuff somethings up on my magna along the way but thats what learning is about) but i must say i did learn alot from rod.

Hi Jason, you are such a wealth of knowledge on the magna 3.5L Engine I wish I knew as much as you ..... what was your actual job title at MMAL ? You must have been working along side Rod Campbell to have the knowledge you do ? you didn't tell me you where the pistons and cylinder head specialist & engine tuner at MMAL.... you should broadcast that in your profile.

He doesnt really want to broadcast what he knows as he took the time to test everything himself and doesnt want replicas popping up everywhere. His knowledge on the 6g74 is vast and the info he does give is helpful, we should appricate that and let him keep his wish of being a quiet member with some knowledge.

Otherwise he will probably get like 40 PM's a day about what to do for this and so on.

He doesnt really want to broadcast what he knows as he took the time to test everything himself and doesnt want replicas popping up everywhere. His knowledge on the 6g74 is vast and the info he does give is helpful, we should appricate that and let him keep his wish of being a quiet member with some knowledge.

Otherwise he will probably get like 40 PM's a day about what to do for this and so on.

Yep hence why my PM is switched off :)

Yep hence why my PM is switched off :)

Excellent, i can see why you do mate, it would drive me bonkers if it were me ha.:D

Yep hence why my PM is switched off :)

i understand why you do it, and i am very thankful for what you have given and provided to me in the past, not only in this thread but also for my cams.

Jason what was your job Title ? and no Im not having a dig !! I just herd that you where in spare parts.... must be someone else with the same name.

i understand why you do it, and i am very thankful for what you have given and provided to me in the past, not only in this thread but also for my cams.

No problems mate, im glad your happy with what you have done so far.

I guess the best advice i can give anyone is do ya homework before doing any major mods.

Jason what was your job Title ? and no Im not having a dig !! I just herd that you where in spare parts.... must be someone else with the same name.

I started back in 1991 in parts manufacturing (where the fuel tanks, control arms, rear axles, front and rear crossmembers, engine/gearbox mounts, dashboard assembly etc were made) and then progressed through the ranks to tonsley park quality assurance department. Being a level 3.3 "specialist" meant in had my finger in lots of the factories "pie" so to speak, with work stints (6-12 month at a time) in many areas within tonsley park and lonsdale, this is where and why i gained alot of my knowledge of the TF-TJ magnas.

The only people that got actual job titles were the big knobs (like managers etc) all of us others were just classed as "Team Members"

Obviously he is not happy... otherwise he would not be trying to find HP... forget ****ing around with piston and cam profiles he should be converting to a manual GB to start with!


No problems mate, im glad your happy with what you have done so far.

I guess the best advice i can give anyone is do ya homework before doing any major mods.

Cool Jason thought it was the the same guy! you are very well like & respected throughout the close knit circle of MMAL workers. :D


I started back in 1991 in parts manufacturing (where the fuel tanks, control arms, rear axles, front and rear crossmembers, engine/gearbox mounts, dashboard assembly etc were made) and then progressed through the ranks to tonsley park quality assurance department. Being a level 3.3 "specialist" meant in had my finger in lots of the factories "pie" so to speak, with work stints (6-12 month at a time) in many areas within tonsley park and lonsdale, this is where and why i gained alot of my knowledge of the TF-TJ magnas.

No problems mate, im glad your happy with what you have done so far.

I guess the best advice i can give anyone is do ya homework before doing any major mods.

are you able to help me out in regards to my piston setup, im thinking 10.5:1 pistons, but suppliers are in short in australia, or i might be looking in the wrong place, because everyone is saying dont go through rpw, and overseas suppliers seem to be a no go, with exchange rates and all. which was what i was going to use, but now not so sure. you can send me an email or pm if you want to keep it on the low down, if not ill understand as well or should i go straight to the suppliers?

thanks mike

Ukkkkkkkkk http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/help-contact.html

Ukkkkkkkkk http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/help-contact.html

i sent those guys an email, and they havent replied yet, but seem to be quite good, has anyone used them before?

YEAH ME with a happy ending

were they good products? easy to contact and stay in contact with? for a person who doesnt know everything about engines will i be able to get everything i need without being taken advantage of?

Mate TBH I would like to admit I dont know it all ! but I was more than happy with the service and support from this company.

are you able to help me out in regards to my piston setup, im thinking 10.5:1 pistons, but suppliers are in short in australia, or i might be looking in the wrong place, because everyone is saying dont go through rpw, and overseas suppliers seem to be a no go, with exchange rates and all. which was what i was going to use, but now not so sure. you can send me an email or pm if you want to keep it on the low down, if not ill understand as well or should i go straight to the suppliers?

thanks mike

The way our $ has taken a dump lately, your probably best to go through a place like SPS in melbourne or you could try a place like JP pistons, as they may also be able to help you http://www.jp.com.au/Specials.html

i sent those guys an email, and they havent replied yet, but seem to be quite good, has anyone used them before?

i found those guys a nightmare to deal with, i couldnt trust handing over money the way they wanted, having said that i know of people that have used them and are very happy.

Very Happy :D

i found those guys a nightmare to deal with, i couldnt trust handing over money the way they wanted, having said that i know of people that have used them and are very happy.

did you end up useing anyone or havent you gone ahead with it, looking in your profile i cant see anything. what was wrong with there payment method?

sorry for all the qestion people.

The way our $ has taken a dump lately, your probably best to go through a place like SPS in melbourne or you could try a place like JP pistons, as they may also be able to help you http://www.jp.com.au/Specials.html

SPS dont have a website do they?

did you end up useing anyone or havent you gone ahead with it, looking in your profile i cant see anything. what was wrong with there payment method?

sorry for all the qestion people.

i ended up using other sources, costing a lot extra. ive just been hording parts waiting for the cams to do my build, still havent found a reputable camshaft to use

i ended up using other sources, costing a lot extra. ive just been hording parts waiting for the cams to do my build, still havent found a reputable camshaft to use

who did you end up useing? if you dont want to share on an open forum your welcome to send a pm.

Obviously he is not happy... otherwise he would not be trying to find HP... forget ****ing around with piston and cam profiles he should be converting to a manual GB to start with!


Yep well all told him to do a manual conversion from the start

who did you end up useing? if you dont want to share on an open forum your welcome to send a pm.

various places, rpw (sorry for the swear words) for the cp pistons, repco and sca for gaskets and bearings, head work done by a friend, waiting on cams to get moving.

however, the longer it takes to find cams, the closer i am to forged rods. im a glass half full kind of guy lol

If you are waiting for a reputable camshaft you will be waiting a long time..... as this is the key to the real NA HP. There is only one profile that is proven and works and I believe I have it..... but hey what do I know. I provided the engine and heads to the source and got what I wanted...:D

If you are waiting for a reputable camshaft you will be waiting a long time..... as this is the key to the real NA HP. There is only one profile that is proven and works and I believe I have it..... but hey what do I know. I provided the engine and heads to the source and got what I wanted...:D

from what i hear that source can do good work if they want to, just a shame theyre not consistant.

Must be for some.... I have not had a problem after providing the correct foundation..... got what I wanted in the end !

If you are waiting for a reputable camshaft you will be waiting a long time..... as this is the key to the real NA HP. There is only one profile that is proven and works and I believe I have it..... but hey what do I know. I provided the engine and heads to the source and got what I wanted...:D


After 4 sets so i was told hehehe.

Oh and the cams for my engine are known to work too (as they are just a slightly milder version of my old engines cams and that was great), just need the c**kheads to remake the front cam properly on the exhaust lobes and all will be good.

Ya know the sad part about the cam grinder in QLD, is he denies things but other engine builders he deals with have shown me that you can actually workout the valve timing of a cam on a lathe or similar (where you can spin it freely by hand) with a simple degree wheel and a dial indicator and as we all know on a V6 engine, each cylinder "fires" 120degrees from the other.

To prove it i spent lastnight "timing" the current cams in my engine for mr tighe so he can have them as a guide to assist in fixing the F up he has made on my other cams, we also ripped one out and did the "timing test" as discribed above and it came out pretty damn close to what they timed up as in the engine.

sounds a little hit and miss to me lol

also their pricing depends on who you speak to and their mood, i seen prices change by $200

Yep well all told him to do a manual conversion from the start

i wanted to see how far i could go with the auto and i am happy with what i have done, but now i am bored with the auto so im wanting to go to manual now, just the process i wanted to do. i would put the pistons in as well, but im afraid the auto might fail me, plus its boring to drive.

Yeah it took me 2 sets of cams as well..... I have this info & have a set of 290+ camshafts with the lobe center's spot on front to back :D..... but I will say the rocker geometry front to back is different for a reason ......but hey Jason you already know this.....


After 4 sets so i was told hehehe.

Oh and the cams for my engine are known to work too (as they are just a slightly milder version of my old engines cams), just need the ****heads to remake the front cam properly on the exhaust lobes and all will be good.

Yeah it took me 2 sets of cams as well..... I have this info & have a set of 290+ camshafts with the lobe center's spot on front to back :D..... but I will say the rocker geometry front to back is different for a reason ......but hey Jason you already know this.....

Yes but the geometry difference is found on other V6 SOHC engines as well, so its not just unique to our cars.

I really hope now that after todays email to Tighe with all the valve timing specs of the cams he made (incorrect on the front cam) and the current ones in my car, that he will be able to finish properly a set of cams that i payed for back in April of last year. If not then its going to get ugly.... and i mean real ugly :rant: Hell i might have to take some time off work to fly up there to get these cams happening.

Yes but the geometry difference is found on other V6 SOHC engines as well, so its not just unique to our cars.

I really hope now that after todays email to Tighe with all the valve timing specs of the cams he made (incorrect on the front cam) and the current ones in my car, that he will be able to finish properly a set of cams that i payed for back in April of last year. If not then its going to get ugly.... and i mean real ugly :rant: Hell i might have to take some time of work to fly up there to get these cams happening.

if it gets me a good cam ill even pay ya airfare lol

**** best I stay out of this one but If I can help or pick ya up from the airport let me know. Talk soon Cheers

Just had some good news from Tighe. :shock: The email i sent him with all Valve timing specs has ***isted him. He even asked if i knew the current cams in my car are retarded by around 7degrees and i said yes, they are prototype ralliart cams which were ground 6degrees retarded on the pins for the 10:1 test mule engine. :)

Dean has said that my cams will be finished in the next couple of days and i should have them by middle to end of next week :badgrin:

Thats Great news Jason.... Spend some time with him today, looks like your email did the trick ! :D

well i replaced the spark plugs today, the platinums didnt look that crash hot when they came out, i put the twin tipped spark plugs in, they seem to be doing a great job. myself and speaking to a couple of mechanics have come to a conclusion, that its not the injectors because it only happens in certain weather and only happens on the odd occasion every week. So it has come to the conclusion that the overlap on the cams is to big, which can either be rectified with a full ecu or a manual conversion... hmmmmmmmm i wonder what is next :cool:

well i replaced the spark plugs today, the platinums didnt look that crash hot when they came out, i put the twin tipped spark plugs in, they seem to be doing a great job. myself and speaking to a couple of mechanics have come to a conclusion, that its not the injectors because it only happens in certain weather and only happens on the odd occasion every week. So it has come to the conclusion that the overlap on the cams is to big, which can either be rectified with a full ecu or a manual conversion... hmmmmmmmm i wonder what is next :cool:

Most powerful N/A Manual? :)

Most powerful N/A Manual? :)

Yeh right, i got a long way for that to occur, add probably another 100kw's :cool:

I forgot to add, to reduce the amount of backfiring and to make the car run smoother, i increased the fuel pressure from 45 to 50, and now the car is almost perfect hahaha. anyways it will do until i get a manual conversion.

I forgot to add, to reduce the amount of backfiring and to make the car run smoother, i increased the fuel pressure from 45 to 50, and now the car is almost perfect hahaha. anyways it will do until i get a manual conversion.
Almost Perfect you say?

well due to the lumpyness down low she is a bit laggy, but this can either be fixed by low down power mods or getting a manual conversion. And every now and then in a blue moon, the car will backfire through the intake mod, but hasnt done it since turning up the fuel pressure as of yet. :confused:

well due to the lumpyness down low she is a bit laggy, but this can either be fixed by low down power mods or getting a manual conversion. And every now and then in a blue moon, the car will backfire through the intake mod, but hasnt done it since turning up the fuel pressure as of yet. :confused:
hmmm this is due to the standard torque converter a manual will help but your cam will be ****e below 3k rpm

hmmm this is due to the standard torque converter a manual will help but your cam will be ****e below 3k rpm

Id say that with a manual Lendas car will quite good down low, hell in reality the cams he has are still baby cams.

Ive found that once ya start getting above 272deg duration with a manual gearbox then low down drivablity starts to suffer. My current combo is still fairly easy to drive on the street, its not factory smooth down low but it aint exactly crap either and the engine comes on the cams around 2500rpm quite hard though but then im running 106 centred cams. My missus can drive the car with no major issues (she has more issues with the ceramic button clutch than the lumpy cams), so that to me proves that it must be at least tractable.

Id say that with a manual Lendas car will quite good down low, hell in reality the cams he has are still baby cams.

Ive found that once ya start getting above 272deg duration with a manual gearbox then low down drivablity starts to suffer. My current combo is still fairly easy to drive on the street, its not factory smooth down low but it aint exactly crap either and the engine comes on the cams around 2500rpm quite hard though but then im running 106 centred cams. My missus can drive the car with no major issues (she has more issues with the ceramic button clutch than the lumpy cams), so that to me proves that it must be at least tractable.

This sounds good! I cant wait for my manual now, i just gotta stop getting destracted with physical mods on the car, it never stops.

Id say that with a manual Lendas car will quite good down low, hell in reality the cams he has are still baby cams.

Ive found that once ya start getting above 272deg duration with a manual gearbox then low down drivablity starts to suffer. My current combo is still fairly easy to drive on the street, its not factory smooth down low but it aint exactly crap either and the engine comes on the cams around 2500rpm quite hard though but then im running 106 centred cams. My missus can drive the car with no major issues (she has more issues with the ceramic button clutch than the lumpy cams), so that to me proves that it must be at least tractable.

you wouldn't be able to send us some info about cams and stuff? what i need and so on
my cars manual and im looking at getting some lumpy cams put in but also good enough to drive as a daily
only if you dont mind/got some free time
thanks :)

sorry to hi-jack mike :)

you wouldn't be able to send us some info about cams and stuff? what i need and so on
my cars manual and im looking at getting some lumpy cams put in but also good enough to drive as a daily
only if you dont mind/got some free time
thanks :)

sorry to hi-jack mike :)

Mr Roberto, you wouldnt be jealous would you? is this why you hijacked the thread? haha only joking mate. This is the point of this thread, not just to show the progress of my engine work, but to help others whome are looking at a similar path.