ok. before you say search, i did but couldn't find the answer i was looking for.

I have one bulk pack of dynomat and wanna soundproof my TL. so apart from the bootlid wheres the best place to put it.

with the bootlid does it come apart, or is it just 1 piece? if its 1 piece do i just cover all the holes with cardboard or mdf and tape and then just dynomat that. will look ugly, but i can get boot lid carpet later. whats this wax stuff i was told to use first?

and second question. how do i make myself a side mount for my amps? (1 for each side).
atm my amp is sitting on the boot floor, and cables everywhere. i really need to clean it up.

anybody got any pics, like mounting brackets, measurements. that sort of thing.

umm. thats it for now. I'm gonna need help wiring my amps. but i will work that out later.

Do your bootlid, front doors and parcel shelf first. Then look at areas like the boot floor if you've got left over. :P

Amp mounts, I've no idea :(

with dynamat u pretty much do anything that rattles.. also the opposite side to wherever your subs fire to is generally a good place to start..

with the amp mounts, cut out a piece of mdf the suite that will wedge into place and also a couple of small brackets to secure it into the ground.. however they will generally just sit in place quite well.

should have enough in your bulk pack to do the bootlid, front doors and maybe the parcel shelf
as for the panels well get yourself a big bit of cardboard and start cutting it out so it fits nicely on the side of your boot, you'll have to make another one for the other side as its slightly different

Get a second bulk pack.

Concentrate on your front doors, the outer skin, inner skin, and personally, I've also done the plastic door trim (about to add more aswell). Not saying my system is hypo, but the front speakers do create a fair bit of resonation in the plastic door trims.

Doing all 3 could take half a bulk pack (I personally done two layers on outer door skin).

Then, Bootlid, 1/4 panels, parcel tray, then boot floor last.

I went through 1 bulk pack in the boot alone (if not more......lost count after a while).

As for mounts, the most simple mount you will need:

1 x 10mm thick MDF 900 x 1200mm board
6 x 6mm bolts (around 45mm is plenty)
12 x washers (1 washer for underneath, 1 washer for on the MDF side)
6 x 6mm nylon nuts (for use from under the car)
6mm drill bit too (hope you dont mind drilling into your floor).

You want a base on each side, that bolts to your floor.
Get some cardboard, cut the shape out that hugs the inside of the 1/4 panel area, where you want the amp to sit. Cut the MDF.

Carefully, avoiding chassis rail, drill 3 holes for the bolts to go through.
Cut the MDF rack, easiest way is just 90 degree's to the base, angle is a bit harder to do, an extra 5 minutes. To brace this, cut another bit of MDF, use 45mm countersinking plasterboard screws and MDF glue. Pre drill all screw holes with 4.5mm drill bit.

Once this is all bolted/glued together, carpet/paint, whatever.

Put back in, drop the bolts/washers in. Use nylon nuts from underneath the car.

Bolt amps up.

Yes this explanation sucks without pictures......so bite me.

Ha your explaination sucks - you need pictures....

3-4 sheets for the front doors
Replace the plastic speaker holder with a mdf baffle
2 sheets for the boot lid itself
2 sheets for the floor of the boot - including the tire well.
If their is a 9th sheet ( can't remember ) do under the rear passenger seat.

Amp mounts can be made out of many things - metal, wood, fiberglass. Think simple.

Yeah yeah I'll take a pic of my previous amp install and load it up later tonight....

Think its in the shed somewhere.....probably with the amp still attached lol

WOW. thanks for the great replies.

even got a step by step instructions for the amp mount.
would using 90 degree metal brackets to hold the mdf and amp upright be enough?

oh. and still about the boot lid. do i just cover the holes with something and dynomat over that whole thing. or is there a way do get in between the boot lid and the bit with all the holes in it. sorry for the bad explanation. i dont have a camera to show you what i mean atm.

and note. i cant afford more dynomat at the moment. thats why i want to get the best use out of this 1 pack.

what does it mean to wax down before applying dynomat?

Look I'll take some pictures when I get home....

Whats a good hosting site?

Will take them of my bootlid, the amp mount thing, etc.....

I wouldnt use metal brackets, unless they are long, and braced.....friend made that mistake, I even told him to make MDF bracing.....

1st corner and you hear a nice THUD from his brand new rockford amp :-D

Not sure what waxing down means. However, you *should* clean the metal first, personally I just dusted it, didnt clean it with alco wipes as suggested....and mine's still on perfectly after 2 summers :)

Pics:

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/1927/am1hc0.th.jpg (http://img296.imageshack.us/my.php?image=am1hc0.jpg)http://img296.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/5361/am2vf2.th.jpg (http://img296.imageshack.us/my.php?image=am2vf2.jpg)http://img296.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/9286/am3sb6.th.jpg (http://img219.imageshack.us/my.php?image=am3sb6.jpg)http://img219.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/5081/am7fu7.th.jpg (http://img296.imageshack.us/my.php?image=am7fu7.jpg)http://img296.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

Now,

The magna boot has ribs in it, in order to make the amp rack base sit flush, you may want to cut a couple 10mm thick bits of MDF to sit in between the ribs (you will see when you rip carpet out).

What I done is bolt this spacer to the floor using the 6mm bolts, on the underside of the spacer I had 3 bolts protruding through, so once this is bolted in, the amp mount slides on top, and I used wing nuts to secure it. Made taking the amp out a bit easier.

Easier way is to simply to use the spacers if needed, and bolt the amp base into the floor.

ok so im about to start sound deadening today. I know to cover the service holes with mdf in the front doors, what about the holes on the boot lid. obviously not mdf as it would weigh a ton, but do i need to put anything over them first or just sound deaden.

hey guys Im getting into my doors and i have been following this link
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=388523&postcount=7

i just noticed that the black seal strip was been left on around the outside. now that came off when i took the waterproof cover thing of on my doors. does that matter? how much water actually gets in these doors?

It's best after you sound deaden the door to replace that sheet back on as it does help reduce water seepage, I did the same to my doors. Just make sure you leave room for the sheet to go back on when deaden.

As for the boot I just put the deadener straight over the top as I think the holes are there just to save wieght.

It's best after you sound deaden the door to replace that sheet back on as it does help reduce water seepage, I did the same to my doors. Just make sure you leave room for the sheet to go back on when deaden.

As for the boot I just put the deadener straight over the top as I think the holes are there just to save wieght.

ok thanks for that. what did you use to reseal it? coz i dont think no more gaps is sticky

ok thanks for that. what did you use to reseal it? coz i dont think no more gaps is sticky
I reused the black sticky stuff, but I believe you can buy the stuff at any major auto or hardware store.
When I eventually add more deadner to my door I'll be using new seals

I reused the black sticky stuff, but I believe you can buy the stuff at any major auto or hardware store.
When I eventually add more deadner to my door I'll be using new seals

ok good. thanks for that.

this job is so much more time consuming then i planned out for it to be. just taping everything is a crappy job.

does water get in there if i dont use the window. coz i think its forecast rain tonight and its a bit late to finish waterproofing it and ive already got it all apart:(

does water get in there if i dont use the window. coz i think its forecast rain tonight and its a bit late to finish waterproofing it and ive already got it all apart:(

Not enough to do any damage. Doors are designed to deal with the odd bit of water that will find its way inside them, that's why there are drainage holes at the bottom. Personally I would not bother with waterproofing the door. I didn't with my old car and never had any dramas. From what I hear most speakers are designed to deal with a bit of water also.

And the wax stuff you speak about is wax & grease remover. The same stuff applied to surfaces before they are painted (car panels, etc). Go to your local Bunnings or whatever and buy a bottle of the stuff along with a small pack of rags. Soak a rag with it and wipe down the surface you wish to sound deaden. Then with a new clean rag wipe over it again so it's dry. It's used to remove silicon and crap to provide a nice clean surface so stuff will stick to it better.

Don't know if you have seen this, but this is a great tutorial for sound deadening doors.
http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/content.php?contentID=19

It's best after you sound deaden the door to replace that sheet back on as it does help reduce water seepage,

See I find this strange,

I could have sworn this plastic sheet was to block dust, not water........

oh. and still about the boot lid. do i just cover the holes with something and dynomat over that whole thing. or is there a way do get in between the boot lid and the bit with all the holes in it.

Get your hand in there. all you need to do in the boot is the outer skin dont worry about the holes they dont move.

it depends how far you want to go but between my boot and front doors ive gone through 2 bulk packs already. but believe me its worth it. you can hear the differance

well as ive got the day off due to rain, i might try find somewhere undercover and get it all done. or just lock myself inside the car and do it that way. might be a bit awkward though.
depending on how lazy i am, i might not do the plastic cover inside the doors. is it worth doing the bit behind the service holes. think i might so i dont have to do it again later. depends on how much difference it will make.

hey ers. do you have a photo of your final boot install.

what is the rectangle thing at the bottom right of the door (passenger door btw)

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/evil-superman/DSC00375.jpg

it sticks out about 100mm so it goes into the service hole a bit. problem is I've already finished sound deadening everything so it would be a **** to rip it all to cut room for it.
can i take it out? i was thinking of shaving it down but i think its hollow.

Mate just grab it and firmly pull it, it comes out easily enough. I think all it does is keep the door card in shape to stop it warping.
I don't have mine anymore because of the deadner. Hasn't done anything to my door

ok cheers for that.
will do.