Had leaking sump (bottom pan) on TJ. Fixed it but in the process sheared off the thread for one of the bolts.
The MMAL workshop shows incorrect torque. It shows 6Nm for upper pan and 11 for lower pan. It should surely be the other way around, higher torque fitting aluminium into cast iron block and lower torque fitting metal pan to upper pan. which is aluminium. Manual is incorrect in both the specs and in the drawings. Used a helicoil to fix the damaged thread, awesome product.

Did you really use a torque wrench for a sump bolt?

That's keen!

i think he is actually talking about the bolts that hold the sump to the block....

i think he is actually talking about the bolts that hold the sump to the block....
thats still pritty keen

thats still pritty keen

:nuts: there's a reason why you should use torque wrench's

But not in this case.

But not in this case.

Explain? For future reference :)

just do them up real soft.. there only there to hold the pan up till the rtv paste sets arent they?

Explain? For future reference :)

Well Dickie says he stuffed a thread and it sounds like he was useing a torque wrench.
:roll:

Torque wrench is good! Torque wrench is your friend!

Haynes says 11Nm.

I personally do not believe you could snap a bolt that size with a mere 11Nm of force, you would start stretching it at around 25Nm (its steel), and I think possibly snap it at 40Nm, at which point the thread would be useless in the sump, and you would need to tap it.

I think the bolt was not in correctly, it felt 'tight' and was tightened at an angle - been there, done that....

Well Dickie says he stuffed a thread and it sounds like he was useing a torque wrench.
:roll:

Yeah thanks mate, i can read too. I thought the posts were saying that torque wrench for a sump bolt was bad, thus asking for explanation.
Ers answered it though, all good.

There is no way on earth you could sheer a 6mm bolt even with 11nm of torque no matter how much you tried.

I would say someone else has had the pan off at some stage and over stressed the bolts.

To give you an idea, the average torque for a 6mm type 4 bold is generally around 11 - 12 nm, the 6mm bolt is 25nm.

Many here have seen me use a torque wrench on a lot of parts of a car, I do this often.

Bolt did not shear (I agree 11Nm can't shear 6mm bolt). Thread for the bolt in Aluminium casing stripped. Latest is that the job was not a success. The aluminium casing and the pan are not flat (there is distortion). I have tried again and will know tomorrow if I have managed to fix the leak. What should have been a small easy job has become a nightmare.

Thread for the bolt in the casing was destroyed?

Did you put the bolt in correctly, or cross thread it? (this is pretty easy to do)

Find out if its your pan that is warped, or the lower sump casing, I'de be praying for it to be the sump.....

Find out if its your pan that is warped, or the lower sump casing, I'de be praying for it to be the sump.....

say that again? makes no sense :confused:

the pan would be warped.. the block wouldnt be.. just needs a new sump pan, no big deal... retap the stuffed thread.. off you go again..

I thought it was pretty straight forward.

See if the pan itself is warped, or if its the alloy casing.