hey guys

just got me a autometer air/fuel ratio guage so i can sorta see how the cars running in this department
now comes the hard part wiring it up, now i've figured out what wire what
the only thing i need to know is where would be the best spot to tap into the o2 sensor?
and the other thing i gotta figure out is where to stick the guage
so if anyone could help out that'll be tops :)

cheers rob

hey guys

just got me a autometer air/fuel ratio guage so i can sorta see how the cars running in this department
now comes the hard part wiring it up, now i've figured out what wire what
the only thing i need to know is where would be the best spot to tap into the o2 sensor?
and the other thing i gotta figure out is where to stick the guage
so if anyone could help out that'll be tops :)

cheers rob
What do you mean "best spot"....

']What do you mean "best spot"....

i thought that was pretty clear lol
i ment as in where would you tap into it?

tap it into the o2 sensor lol

just a heads up you wont get an accurate read unless you get a wide band o2 sensor.

so really it will be a waste of you time installing it.

a member here had a/f ratio gauge installed in his VRX and ye it was pointless and was not giving an accurate read. every time you accelerate it goes to rich then stoich the rich the hovers in between somewhere then back to stoich.

its pointless.

tap it into the o2 sensor lol

just a heads up you wont get an accurate read unless you get a wide band o2 sensor.

so really it will be a waste of you time installing it.

a member here had a/f ratio gauge installed in his VRX and ye it was pointless and was not giving an accurate read. every time you accelerate it goes to rich then stoich the rich the hovers in between somewhere then back to stoich.

its pointless.
Nahh its not pointless, tells you when u boot it its rich and when your cruising is stoich :P what more do u wanna know:P

But yeah, waste of a gauge

Best spot to mount the guage I think is in one of the cup holders in the centre console.
Have it flush in the circular part of the holder and still lets you hold drink cartons.
I believe I saw Millert85 has the same set up.
As for the O2 sensor, no idea.

i dont care if the guage is pointless or not
its not going in your car so why do you care?
all im asking is where to tap it into, which i knew it was the o2 sensor from the start
i want to know where the wires are for the sensor and which one is the right one to tap into to
thats all i ask


Best spot to mount the guage I think is in one of the cup holders in the centre console.
Have it flush in the circular part of the holder and still lets you hold drink cartons.
I believe I saw Millert85 has the same set up.
As for the O2 sensor, no idea.

haha nah i like my cup holders so im thinking somewhere else
thanks for the idea :)

i dont care if the guage is pointless or not
its not going in your car so why do you care?
all im asking is where to tap it into, which i knew it was the o2 sensor from the start
i want to know where the wires are for the sensor and which one is the right one to tap into to
thats all i ask
haha nah i like my cup holders so im thinking somewhere else
thanks for the idea :)

Ease up big fella...
I know there is a write up in the 2nd gen section about them...but dont know if they are the same as the 3rd gens ones..
Take it from us man, Not worth tapping into, you'll get it in, see it go up and down and go wow.. Better of getting an oil pressure or oil temp gauge

You have two options

1. Tap it off the wire when it is in the cabin already, at the ECU. This is probably the neatest way to do it but the hardest.
This is done with the white/green pin 71 on the ECU. The plug with pin 71 has 28 pins and 71 is the first.

2. Tap it off the sensor or near it, run the wire in to the cabin then to the gauge. This is the easiest but unless the wire is black and you do a neat job, it will look rough.
The o2 sensor is a 4 wire earth return heated unit. You are still looking for white/green wire which leads back to pin 71 of the ECU but there is a 4 pin plug close to the o2 sensor where all the wires should be available for "tee'ing". Tee pin 1 of the plug which will be white/green.

Paul leave him alone, mr I have a choooooge wing on my NA car :bowrofl:

You have two options

1. Tap it off the wire when it is in the cabin already, at the ECU. This is probably the neatest way to do it but the hardest.
This is done with the white/green pin 71 on the ECU. The plug with pin 71 has 28 pins and 71 is the first.

2. Tap it off the sensor or near it, run the wire in to the cabin then to the gauge. This is the easiest but unless the wire is black and you do a neat job, it will look rough.
The o2 sensor is a 4 wire earth return heated unit. You are still looking for white/green wire which leads back to pin 71 of the ECU but there is a 4 pin plug close to the o2 sensor where all the wires should be available for "tee'ing". Tee pin 1 of the plug which will be white/green.

Paul leave him alone, mr I have a choooooge wing on my NA car :bowrofl:
Explain to me what that means first:P

Its huge, with a chooooooge c%$# in its a#@

i dont care if the guage is pointless or not
its not going in your car so why do you care?
lol god i love hearing that lol

relax dude i did say "just a heads up"

was only telling you what it exactly does in a magna. for all i care you can stick a boost gauge on it and just watch it measure your vacuum. just thought id let you know what it does before you hack your wiring to find which cable to splice into then later realizing it does nothing.

your right its your car do what you want.

happy ricing :D

lol god i love hearing that lol

relax dude i did say "just a heads up"

was only telling you what it exactly does in a magna. for all i care you can stick a boost gauge on it and just watch it measure your vacuum. just thought id let you know what it does before you hack your wiring to find which cable to splice into then later realizing it does nothing.

your right its your car do what you want.

happy ricing :D
You never gave me that wellwishing:rant:

you could take your tray out and put it there, thats what im thinking of doing.

i know what these guages do hence the reason i got one
acouple of guys i work with have them in there cars, so i've seen them work
its mainly for a project im thinking of doing, nothing to do with what the guage does or anything but more as in a custom housing for acouple of guages
also if i dont like the guage i could always sell it on ebay or something, its only 3 wires :)

you could take your tray out and put it there, thats what im thinking of doing.

what tray are you talking about?

']You never gave me that wellwishing:rant:
ummmmm

ok then

lets see

happy ricing :confused:


no worries Mr_Roberto if its towards a project then ye i guess thats fine. but ye as for mounting iv always wanted to see this done in a magna but gauge mounts from a falcon that sits in the middle of the console ontop of the vents. if you can be bothered going custom that will look hott

the tray where u put rubbish, enough room for two guages.

the tray where u put rubbish, enough room for two guages.

do you mean the ashtray?

this is what im thinking of doing
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/DGH003.jpg

was that what you were talking about?
im thinking getting one of them and fibreglassing it so it moulds into the dash
something i'll be attemping on my holidays ;)

You could also mount a gauge cup on the A-pillar like i did:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v124/mohit/Verada/verada70.jpg

Thats what I did with my...vacuum gauge.

this is what im thinking of doing
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/DGH003.jpg

was that what you were talking about?
im thinking getting one of them and fibreglassing it so it moulds into the dash
something i'll be attemping on my holidays ;)

Do ittttttttt

ye thats what i meant.

will look s much neater.

but you will need another gauge to fill the second hole. do an oil pressure gauge while at it.

lol @ Paul in this thread, you're lecturing people about rice and useless gauges? :gtfo: :bowrofl:

this oil pressure guage which one would i need?
theres two types, one goes to 100 psi and the others 200 psi
i can get the same type of guage as my air/fuel one but its the 200 psi one

this oil pressure guage which one would i need?
theres two types, one goes to 100 psi and the others 200 psi
i can get the same type of guage as my air/fuel one but its the 200 psi one

Double check its electrical not mechanical as well, dont wanna be running oil everywhere

lol @ Paul in this thread, you're lecturing people about rice and useless gauges? :gtfo: :bowrofl:
Yeah it's called passing on experiance...

just having another look see at the guages
now these are the ones avaliable that are electric guages

these ones are short sweep
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3099&sid=11
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3466&sid=11

these are full sweep
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3781&sid=11
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3130&sid=11

now which one would be the best one to get?

First or 4th one.

You want an electronic gauge if you are mounting it in the cabin. Its against ADR/RTA to have oil or petrol within the cabin.

First or 4th one.

You want an electronic gauge if you are mounting it in the cabin. Its against ADR/RTA to have oil or petrol within the cabin.
no it's not. it's against the ADRs to have petrol in the cabin, not oil. I've read through the relevant ADRs and National Code of Practice (NCOP) and there's no mention of oil, and the guys I spoke to at the RTA said it was a judgment call as to whether they would allow it.

cheers,
.wook

no it's not. it's against the ADRs to have petrol in the cabin, not oil. I've read through the relevant ADRs and National Code of Practice (NCOP) and there's no mention of oil, and the guys I spoke to at the RTA said it was a judgment call as to whether they would allow it.

cheers,
.wook
I've had enough oil under my car and around my engine bay, Me thinks I'll try and keep it out of my interior.

nobody take this the wrong way.... but your an idiot if you run a mechanical oil or fuel pressure gauge. u mount them in the cabin and if a line blows you have burning hot oil or flammable fuel all over the cabin, if you mount them on the bonnet you have it spray all over the windscreen.

and i have an AFR gauge, mounted in a custom fibreglass pod where the cig lighter was. tapped into the wire at the ecu. biggest watse of money i've ever spent.

nobody take this the wrong way.... but your an idiot if you run a mechanical oil or fuel pressure gauge. u mount them in the cabin and if a line blows you have burning hot oil or flammable fuel all over the cabin, if you mount them on the bonnet you have it spray all over the windscreen.

and i have an AFR gauge, mounted in a custom fibreglass pod where the cig lighter was. tapped into the wire at the ecu. biggest watse of money i've ever spent.

what if you actually do it RIGHT and use braided steel lines and the correct fittings? I would NEVER recommend mounting a mechanical fuel pressure gauge (without an isolator) in the cabin. that's just silly.

what if you actually do it RIGHT and use braided steel lines and the correct fittings? I would NEVER recommend mounting a mechanical fuel pressure gauge (without an isolator) in the cabin. that's just silly.

Wookiee,

Things go wrong, a gauge can fail even if you fit $150 worth of braided lines, the fitting on the gauge can let go. So after spending $450 to have a mechanical gauge in the car done 'right' you're left with 3rd degree burns, and quite possibly a rather nasty car accident.....

Hell for an extra few hundred you could have a Defi HUD setup.....

Wookiee,

Things go wrong, a gauge can fail even if you fit $150 worth of braided lines, the fitting on the gauge can let go. So after spending $450 to have a mechanical gauge in the car done 'right' you're left with 3rd degree burns, and quite possibly a rather nasty car accident.....

Hell for an extra few hundred you could have a Defi HUD setup.....

who's said I'm spending $450 installing a gauge in my car? :nuts: and for the record, they're not that expensive. try about $100 + $100 worth of braided lines and fittings. that's about 20% of the cost of the base Defi HUD, without the oil pressure sensor and wiring.

what I'm saying is it isn't ILLEGAL as stated in someone elses post.

oh yeah, seeing as we're getting into "things that can go wrong", you better not drive at 110km/h from now on. do you know what could happen to you if your wheel fell off at 110km/h? not pretty, I'm sure.

Each to thier own i say,but id run a electric sender and gauge myself,but thats my opinion,if you decide to fit a mechanical gauge and get burnt (literally! ) stiff ****,like they say,if you have a $2 head, buy a $2 helmet!

That being said,i dont know the fail rate of these setups really!

Steve

That being said,i dont know the fail rate of these setups really!

Steve


Practically nil, but it is still ARD non compliant for a very sound reason.

Practically nil, but it is still ARD non compliant for a very sound reason.
post the relevant ADR that it contravenes or :gtfo: I've actually done the research, have you?

fuel lines in the cabin are not allowed. no other engine fluids are mentioned in either the ADRs or the NCOP.

the RTA guy I spoke to said he wouldn't recommend running any engine fluids into the cabin, but went suspiciously quiet when I mentioned that ALL cars with heaters run hot engine coolant into the cabin.

again, if you do it right, with high quality gauges, there should be no issue. it's not like 50 or 60 psi of pressure is going to suddenly burst through stainless steel braided lines that are rated for hydraulic brakes (something like 1000 psi).

.wook

Wookie,

I couldnt care less if its not stipulated that its illegal to put hot oil inside your cabin.

Its down right dangerous, braided lines wont fail, fittings on gauges can fail, even on expensive one's - manufacturing defects do happen. I personally wouldnt risk my pretty face with installing a mechanical gauge in my cabin ;)

Each to their own, I guess you're only arguing that its not illegal so if its done right its fine.

Im arguing that its stupid to have any mechanical gauge in your cabin :)

In my race cars I had mechanical everything in the car but then again, no carpet, all lines inside a PVC tube from the firewall to the guages etc so did everything I could to prevent any mishaps. Once I had the oil line break, you would be surprised on how much oil gets into the cabin in such a short amount of time!!!

For street use, electrical is fine, lets face it, you are only using them to suppliment your factory guage and oil light.

Mechanical temp guage is fine as it does not use fluids from the engine to work,

The arguement of coolant in the car is also weak as the heater box us right up under the dash, the chances of actually getting burnt by coolant is almost nothing as the coolant will be contained within the heater box. The heater core also has its fittings go through the fire wall so again there is not rubber hose to burst internally.

Oil lines run far hotter than the coolant, hell of a lot more pressure and being thin copper or similar to tend to break after a while. Even the teflon braided ones will break eventually. DIfference is that most have the guages mounted so they can be seen, if the oil sprays in the wrong direction you could get very badly burnt

The arguement of coolant in the car is also weak as the heater box us right up under the dash, the chances of actually getting burnt by coolant is almost nothing as the coolant will be contained within the heater box. The heater core also has its fittings go through the fire wall so again there is not rubber hose to burst

Never even thought of the heater box :)

ok so now that the air/fuel guage is sorted
i have now pick up a oil pressure guage
only problem is where does the sender go?
i'll be wiring everything up hopefully this weekend :)

ok so now that the air/fuel guage is sorted
i have now pick up a oil pressure guage
only problem is where does the sender go?
i'll be wiring everything up hopefully this weekend :)

You can get a fitting of sorts made that goes in your standard oil sender location that Tee's off to allow you to put 2 on there (Think a "Y" fitting)

Or get a sandwhich plate, which goes between your oil filter and has 4 outlets for senders. I have an oil temp and oil pressure sender unit in mine.
When I get around to it, I'll get a Y fitting made though, Much more safe

where would one be able to get one or these fittings? repco?
any idea where the sender is located?

where would one be able to get one or these fittings? repco?
any idea where the sender is located?

Get an Oil filter Sandwich plate adaptor from any decent auto store, get them to get a Speco unit with a M20x8 (i think thread) comes up under lancer etc on the part no listing, that gives you 2 x 1/4 NPT threaded holes for your senders + grub screws if you only need one. Looking at about 30-40 for one of these and far better then using a T piece off the factory sender.

And btw nothing wrong with sandwich plates a lot of people use them and have yet to have an issue, (used alot for filter moving kits and cooler kits etc)

Get an Oil filter Sandwich plate adaptor from any decent auto store, get them to get a Speco unit with a M20x8 (i think thread) comes up under lancer etc on the part no listing, that gives you 2 x 1/4 NPT threaded holes for your senders + grub screws if you only need one. Looking at about 30-40 for one of these and far better then using a T piece off the factory sender.

And btw nothing wrong with sandwich plates a lot of people use them and have yet to have an issue, (used alot for filter moving kits and cooler kits etc)

I was always under the impression The "extended" fitting of choice from the thread in the block for the original oil sender was much better, as you never have to touch it again.
Downside with the sandwhich units is is whenever you change an oil filter you need to check these are 100% tight too...Heard a few horror stories of the sandwhich plate.

Get an Oil filter Sandwich plate adaptor from any decent auto store, get them to get a Speco unit with a M20x8 (i think thread) comes up under lancer etc on the part no listing, that gives you 2 x 1/4 NPT threaded holes for your senders + grub screws if you only need one. Looking at about 30-40 for one of these and far better then using a T piece off the factory sender.

And btw nothing wrong with sandwich plates a lot of people use them and have yet to have an issue, (used alot for filter moving kits and cooler kits etc)

so does this attach to where the oil filter is or something?
im guessing im going to have to drain the oil while im at it too? any way i can do if with out emptying the oil?

so does this attach to where the oil filter is or something?
im guessing im going to have to drain the oil while im at it too? any way i can do if with out emptying the oil?

Yep threads onto the Oil filter assembly, if you use a good clean oil catcher you can reuse the oil you have drained, same with the filter as well. Even if you T off the factory sender you lose a tonne of oil as well as it is just above the oil pump.

so does this attach to where the oil filter is or something?
Here's a pic of an oil filter sandwich plate:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/PaulR/Oil%20Sandwich%20plate/DSC03891.jpg

It sits in between the engine block and the engine oil filter. It has provisions on it that allows you to attach, for example, a sender for an electronic oil pressure gauge:

http://www.driftopia.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/01/s2koilpressureinstalled.jpg

I'm looking at getting electronic oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges as well once i'm not as broke lol

Yep threads onto the Oil filter assembly, if you use a good clean oil catcher you can reuse the oil you have drained, same with the filter as well. Even if you T off the factory sender you lose a tonne of oil as well as it is just above the oil pump.

awesome :)
will pick one up on thursday hopefully aswell as a new oil drainer tray
just another questing is it ok to leave the sender attached to the sandwhich plate even tho the guage is attached to it?
reason being is that the guage is going in a custom housing and i'm wiring them in on the weekend hopefully to make sure they all work and what not
thanks

awesome :)
will pick one up on thursday hopefully aswell as a new oil drainer tray
just another questing is it ok to leave the sender attached to the sandwhich plate even tho the guage is attached to it?
reason being is that the guage is going in a custom housing and i'm wiring them in on the weekend hopefully to make sure they all work and what not
thanks
Yeah man....Its fine....All you are are doing to connect sender to gauge is running a piece of wire from 1 to the other with a ring terminal on the end, its entirely self contained :D

reminds me should get my adaptor plate in...

ok went out after work today looking for one of these sandwhich plates
out of the three places i went only one seem to know what i was after
now the only problem was we couldnt find one in any of the books
so does any one have a part number or something for them?

You can also get a far better option if yo have room, you take out the sender and get an extension tube with 2 or 3 outlets in them

The "sandwich" plates are well known for coming loose and also leaking

You can also get a far better option if yo have room, you take out the sender and get an extension tube with 2 or 3 outlets in them

The "sandwich" plates are well known for coming loose and also leaking

got a pic of what these look like?
this might be a better option as there most likely to have them in stock
do they screw onto where the sender was?
im guessing you have to mount them somewhere too, you still have the drain the oil too yeah?

ok went out after work today looking for one of these sandwhich plates
out of the three places i went only one seem to know what i was after
now the only problem was we couldnt find one in any of the books
so does any one have a part number or something for them?

It wont come up magna in any book, comes under mitsubish,ford and some other make, its a metric thread, m8x20 i think

It wont come up magna in any book, comes under mitsubish,ford and some other make, its a metric thread, m8x20 i think

the thing is it didnt come up in any book they had
only thing that was close was the adaptor for the oil cooler

just confirming that the stock oil pressure sender is 1/4?
is this correct? as i'll be getting the T peice tomorrow

just confirming that the stock oil pressure sender is 1/4?
is this correct? as i'll be getting the T peice tomorrow

I have a T piece floatng around somewhere and ill check, but im pretty certain its 1/4 NPT thread.

I have a T piece floatng around somewhere and ill check, but im pretty certain its 1/4 NPT thread.

that'll be great mate
cheers

I have a T piece floatng around somewhere and ill check, but im pretty certain its 1/4 NPT thread.

how'd you go mate? been told that the thread may not be right cause its american or something

just another question,
does the sump plug screw have locktight on it? and also what about the thread for the oil sender?
will be doing this tomorrow if all goes well

just another question,
does the sump plug screw have locktight on it? and also what about the thread for the oil sender?
will be doing this tomorrow if all goes well

Ah forgot to reply back, its 1/4 npt, same as the sender, and your sump plug should not have locktight on it, also be aware how tight you put the sump plug back in, as you can overtightened it (some tossbag did it to mine and had to get a new sump)

Ah forgot to reply back, its 1/4 npt, same as the sender, and your sump plug should not have locktight on it, also be aware how tight you put the sump plug back in, as you can overtightened it (some tossbag did it to mine and had to get a new sump)

sorry to say mate but that is incorrect
its actually a 1/8 NPT, but thanks anyways

So how did your AF gauge go?

still getting to it
got bigger problems atm lol
all sorted and should be up and running by the end of the week
interior is stripped ready to be wired in
got a mate coming round tomorrow to help me out
stay tuned this will be good :)

still getting to it
got bigger problems atm lol
all sorted and should be up and running by the end of the week
interior is stripped ready to be wired in
got a mate coming round tomorrow to help me out
stay tuned this will be good :)

This better be the best modification to a magna ever.

']This better be the best modification to a magna ever.

lol i wouldnt say best, but it'll be the first :P