hay guys gettin to the point now im lookling to buy a sub for my car pc setup im looking for 12" the 5ch amp for it puts outs 1300w/3000peak the local audio place showed me the entry lvl alpine and the alpine type R? they also showed me the last sony xforce? 1400w sub they had they said they would do it for $250 down from 499, ive budgeted for around $350 +/- $100 for the sub alone just want some feedback sony any good or just go with the alpine

it was also suggested to put atleast a 1 farad capacitor inline to the amp?

Ok for $350 +/- $100 you can get a better sub than the entry level Alpine or Sony Xplod (do NOT go near Sony).

The best advise would be to ring Marty from FHRX and chat to him. Brands like Vibe, Boston, Oz Audio, Hertz, DD etc all have subs in that price bracket. He will point you in the right direction and often has great specials.

Whats the RMS output of your amp? (just the single sub channel)

Don't forget to factor in a box :) One of Bigs' fibreglass ones work a treat.

And no you will not need a capacitor if you put the correct sized cable from your battery to your amp. Caps are for bling and people who skimp on cable. Far better spending the money saved on better cable. I would recommend 2 guage.

Cheers
Pete

Edit: FHRX specials right now...
Vibe Blackair II+ 12" $255 (RRP$295) I have this and it is a very sweet sounding sub. Love it.
Orion HP12D2 $395 (RRP$449)
Orion HP12D4 $395 (RRP$449)

wiring should be fine, i went for a guage 0? its about 10mm thick wiring kit with 70amp fuse, fuse is mounted as close to the battery as i can get it (6 inches from the terminal screwed to the outside cover) this is info on the amp after the mods i belive:

350 watts RMS at a 4 ohm load ALL channels driven simultaneously from 20 Hz to 20 kHz continuously, at pink noise conditions,
A massive 6000 watts of PEAK output
600 watts RMS at a 2 ohm load ALL channels driven simultaneously from 20Hz to 20 kHz continuously, at pink noise conditions.
4 channels with 50 watts RMS @ 4 a ohm load and 1 channel with 150 watts RMS @ 4 ohm load.
4 channels with 75 watts RMS @ 2 a ohm load and 1 channel with 300 watts RMS @ a 2 ohm load.
Signal to noise ratio is 100dB

i have one of big's boxes on the way :)

wiring should be fine, i went for a guage 0?

No cap needed then. Good choice.


350 watts RMS at a 4 ohm load ALL channels driven simultaneously from 20 Hz to 20 kHz continuously, at pink noise conditions,
A massive 6000 watts of PEAK output
600 watts RMS at a 2 ohm load ALL channels driven simultaneously from 20Hz to 20 kHz continuously, at pink noise conditions.


Is that the sum of all the channels together? Ignore peak, it can only output that much for a few milliseconds.


1 channel with 300 watts RMS @ a 2 ohm load.

This is the way to go. Get a 2ohm sub (2ohm SVC or 4ohm DVC wired in parallel). Gives you as much power as possible to the sub then. The 1st option of 150W isnt really enough, a lot of subs need close to this as a minimum power requirement.
The Orion HP12Dx fits the bill here and is designed to work in a small sealed enclosure like the Bigs box. I can't find anywhere though whether its SVC or DVC, so not sure whether you will need the 2 ohm or 4 ohm version.
The Boston G212-44 is a DVC 4ohm 300Wrms sub and would work very well. Couldn't really go wrong with this.



i have one of big's boxes on the way :)

You wont be disappointed! :D

The Orion HP12Dx fits the bill here and is designed to work in a small sealed enclosure like the Bigs box. I can't find anywhere though whether its SVC or DVC, so not sure whether you will need the 2 ohm or 4 ohm version.




there dual voice coil, hp is the series d for dual voice coil 4 or 2 is voice coil impedence