Hey guys...

Having a bit of trouble with my verada lately...
anyways, i need to have my Auto reco'd, plus i need a new auto computer.... What im thinkin is - for the same price i can convert to manual 5sp... use a 3.0l v6 manual box from a ts exec and bolt it on, along with a clutch cylinder, and pedal. they all come from the factory pressed for either config - so has anyone attempted it?? -- let us know ur thoughts,,,
u can mms/sms me at 0409929095.

Cheers guys..

I think you've almost covered it. The person you need to speak to is Mal (aka Madmagna), he knows all the parts that you need for the conversion.

Good luck finding a V6 manual box, I'm looking for one aswell!

Yeah if you find one, let everyone know where you got it, if they have anymore, and if they can get more. There will be a lot of people interested.

It would be great to have someone to actually go through with the swap so as we can have some more "firsts" on AM which everyone can learn from :D

I Have A Manual Ks Verada , Just Check On How The Manual Box Will Go With Your Cruise Control , Mine Came Fromthe Factory With The Manual But If I Have It In 5 Gear And Go Up A Steep Hill It Will Throw It Out Of Gear As Not To Over Work The Engine , Also Make Sure That If You Do Have The Cruise Control On To Cancel It Before You Put You Foot On The Clutch As It Will Rev To The Max

Good Luck With The Conversion ;)

First of all, I have everything needed except the gear box.

The KR is an easy swap, the clutch pedal has the facility to add a switch on so there will be no issues with the cruise.

The only 2 things I am to set up are the wiring for the inhibitor switch as it has to be in park or neutral to start however has to be in gear to engage cruise.

I will most likely hook this up through the clutch pedal as well which means that the clutch will have to be depressed to start, this is also good as not nasty accidents when have been used to an auto for so long lollol

Some interesting bits of information in this thread.

Some questions from me now.

What controls the transmissions in your mitsubishi's? Is it a seperate module or is it integrated with the engine control?

The reason I ask this is because a few cars I have done manual conversions on and kept the auto version of the engine control I have had to trick the engine control to think there was an auto trans still there. Its fairly simple to work out as long as you know the pin outs and the resitances of the various solinoids and the range of the sensors in the transmission.

Some of the problems I have had running manual transmissions on cars with the integrated transmission and engine controls are:
Unstable idle
Cooling fans have erratic operation
Engine flat spots

So that is why I ask this. If it is a mechanical auto and has a kickdown cable more than likely it will be ok. Same goes for if there is a seperate transmission module. It has mostly been the ones with integrated transmission and engine that cause some drama's

In the TR-TS shape there is a seperate computer, in the TE+ it is integrated with the ECU (I think.) Once you change it over in the TR-TS you're automatic computer is then redundant.

In the TR series there is no problems.

In the TS, the ecu retards the timing at idle and just off idle for smoother operation, this can be an issue in the manual conversion that can however be overcome with a timing tweak. The knock sensor will retard again if any pinging.

That makes things easy then.

An experience on my EB I'll tell you about. It had the seperate trans computer and usually you can just disconnect it when converting to manual transmission. But since things never go as planned for me, the V8's have a running mode for the engine where engine output is limited for reverse (presumable because reverse is almost the same ratio as 2nd gear which is damn tall). The Engine computer got a signal from the trans computer as a coded frequency signal wether it was in reverse or not. As soon as it was getting no code at all it 'assumed' it was in reverse untill such point that the engine speed vs road speed was at a point that it couldnt possibly be in reverse. So after installing a manual it basically was limiting engine output in first and part of 2nd. To give you an idea of how bad the power loss was, when the car was a stock 5 litre doing 165kw, auto slush box with a 3.27:1 diff ratio 15.95 was the consitant time. After converting to 5 speed, installing a 3.45:1 ratio diff the best time i could possibly manage was 15.96. Yes slower. I just couldn't get off the line quick enough. My fix was to reinstall the transmission computer, work out the resistances of the trans solinoids, trans oil temp sensor, and the PRND switch and solder reistors in to make it look like there was a transmission there when it did the selfcheck on startup. It worked and now i have full tire fryinmg power again.

Its just an example of how removing one system can affect others and how thinking outside of the square can help sometimes. :dancin: In my case it saved me over $400 because I didnt have to buy the manual version of the EEC.