well im not very happy about this, but i guess it's my own stupidity
i have now got a crack just above the oil filter (where the oil sender is)
seems like i have overtighted something with out realising
got some quicksteel? to patch it up and let it set, turn the car on all fine
then hear the tappers going crazy, engine off look under the car to see a puddle of oil, beautiful
seems like the bog hasnt set properly and the oil has pushed through it
so i've now rebogged it good and proper and im leaving it over night to dry
now looking in the workshop manual i see that its just the bracket for the oil filter
im now alittle relieved as i thought i had to replace something big which would cost abit

now the question i ask is will the quicksteel be a good temp fix until my next service? service due in march
or am i better off just getting a new oil filter bracket (if they come seperate)?
starting to think about just getting a new bracket as its only three bolts
any advice would be great :), really need to get this car fixed asap
cheers Rob

Mate i would be getting onto that asap.. I would also refain from using the car if possible. If there is a oil leak when driving you wont know till oil light comes on and with the 30 secs that its going to take for you to realise whats going on you can kill the engine...

Not worth the risk. Cant be that expensive or hard to repair with new part. Will def outway the several grand it will cost to replace engine.:)

i have a spare car to travel around in so no worries there, cars in the backyard on chassy stands
but i miss driving my car, all the other cars are boats :(
will just call up mitsi in the morning and find the part
should be easy to replace its like three bolts, hopefully they are easy to get to from under the car
im guessing im gonna have to drain the sump again :(

I would be heading to a wreckers wih a good tool kit. Mitsu will charge a fortune.

I would be heading to a wreckers wih a good tool kit. Mitsu will charge a fortune.

Yeah its part of the upper sump pan, actually they arent too bad if the lower is anything to go by, i got the base bit for 20 bucks from mitsi, never know till you ring i suppose.

hit up the wreckers for sure

also quicksteel is crap imho, jb weld for the win !!! i repaired a cracked head with jb weld and the car did over 150,000k withno issues,

has anyone ever removed one of these?
got the belt off but thats as far as i can get
seems the bracket that holds the tensioner pulley is in the way
and i can't seem to get at the bolts with the breaker bar :doubt:

anyone? kinda desperate
need to get this done asap!!

Unless MadMagna pops in here - your next best bet is to buy the Haynes Manual. They're $24.95 from memory, they're a godsend if you arnt MadMagna :redface:

The Gregory's manual only describes separating the filter bracket from the pump housing after the oil pump has been removed from the engine block; it looks as though you may need to remove the A/C tensioner to access all the bolts.

If you can't get at the bolts with a breaker bar, what about trying one of those racheting ring spanners?

The Gregory's manual only describes separating the filter bracket from the pump housing after the oil pump has been removed from the engine block; it looks as though you may need to remove the A/C tensioner to access all the bolts.

If you can't get at the bolts with a breaker bar, what about trying one of those racheting ring spanners?

i have already removed the drive belt plus the pulley itself,
the thing thats in the way is the bracket that supports the pulley
also seems the cover thats behind the main pulley needs to come off to get the bolt behind it

i've tried a ratchet spanner on the bolts, doesnt fit where the bolt is :(
dont really wanna drop the engine to get to them

Just went and had a look, or as much of a look as I can with my car being as low as it is lol

I can sort of see where you're stuck; does it look as though you'll be able to get better access by removing the right hand engine mount bracket?

just went out and got some pics to help alittle

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/P1010012_01.jpg
in this pic you can see the head of the bolt that i need to get too, right behind the support bracket for the adjuster pulley.
tryna find a way to pull this bad boy off as it'll make getting at the bolts alittle easier

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/P1010013_01.jpg
this ones the next problem, theres a bolt hiding behind that cover
so looks like that pulley will have to come off to take the cover off

once these two things are out of the way i should be able to unbolt the support and slide it forward, then replace and put everything back together and hope for the best

Olkly Dokly

I am going from memory here so bare with me, I have done a few in the past where I have had to do the oil pump seal so below is assuming removal of oil pump to get the bracket off.

Remove the harmonic balancer (disc your crank sensor, pop a breaker bar into the bolt and jam in your suspension, crank engine a little, should crack the bolt), power steering tensionor pulley, belts, ac compressor (DO NOT DISC LINES)

Remove the RHS mount and bracket, the alt needs to come off (remove the top bolt first, loosen the lower bolt, swing the alt down, remove the top bracket [there are 2 14mm head bolts under the bracket] and then lift the alt out, you will need to move your ac allot pipe slightly) as there should be 2 bolts going through the ac bracket into the engine mount bracket, a lot of mechanics do leave these out however.

Remove timing belt covers.

Remove the filter holder and then you can clean and replace. As the oil pump can stay put you should not need to remove the air con pump

Now from memory and I may be wrong without looking at one since it has been a while, you need to remove the oil pump to get the housing off.

Make sure you have the gasket also for when you replace.

cheers for that madmagna
but how to i get to the bolt behind the tensioner pulley bracket?

you need to as abobe remove the bracket, once you remove the mount bracket you can get too it all

ok, thanks mate
will give that a shot later today if i've got time and let you know how i go :)

These are the types of jobs I leave to people like Mal.

I dont mind struggling through for a few hours, but its easier to kick back and have someone like Mal do this in an hour and a bit and part with some cash :redface:

Olkly Dokly

I am going from memory here so bare with me, I have done a few in the past where I have had to do the oil pump seal so below is assuming removal of oil pump to get the bracket off.

Remove the harmonic balancer (disc your crank sensor, pop a breaker bar into the bolt and jam in your suspension, crank engine a little, should crack the bolt), power steering tensionor pulley, belts, ac compressor (DO NOT DISC LINES)

Remove the RHS mount and bracket, the alt needs to come off (remove the top bolt first, loosen the lower bolt, swing the alt down, remove the top bracket [there are 2 14mm head bolts under the bracket] and then lift the alt out, you will need to move your ac allot pipe slightly) as there should be 2 bolts going through the ac bracket into the engine mount bracket, a lot of mechanics do leave these out however.

Remove timing belt covers.

Remove the filter holder and then you can clean and replace. As the oil pump can stay put you should not need to remove the air con pump

Now from memory and I may be wrong without looking at one since it has been a while, you need to remove the oil pump to get the housing off.

Make sure you have the gasket also for when you replace.

im alittle confused about this part
wheres the harmonic balancer? is it that big pulley?
do you need to reset it or something? as when i had alook see there was a guage of some sort next to it
and how do you loosen the power steering belt? can't see the pulley anywhere
how do you remove the a/c compressor?

Mate, no offence but if you need to ask questions like these the last thing you need to be doing is playing this these items as a lot can go wrong with such a small mistake.

The Power belt tensioner is located up behind the drivers side drive shaft, you will need to loosen a bolt and nut on the bracket and then undo the tensioning bolt up behind the shaft

The harmonic balancer can only go on one way in one place as there is a locating pin.

its ok mate, my brothers going to be giving me a hand tomorrow arvo to do it
he's more mechanical minded then me
the only reason i ask is cause i cant seem to find the right info in the workshop manual
also the way i've learned is to ask questions if your stuck or dont understand something, if this is wrong then im sorry

OP might benefit by checking out the Tech Torque forum, look for the "sticky" thread about Workshop manuals - there are links to pdf files with copies of the Mitsubishi service dept manuals for 2nd Gen and 3rd Gen Magna series.

If you are very unfamiliar with maintenance or servicing of your car, reading these manuals (or Haynes/Greory's after-market manuals) would be a REALLY good idea.

OP might benefit by checking out the Tech Torque forum, look for the "sticky" thread about Workshop manuals - there are links to pdf files with copies of the Mitsubishi service dept manuals for 2nd Gen and 3rd Gen Magna series.

If you are very unfamiliar with maintenance or servicing of your car, reading these manuals (or Haynes/Greory's after-market manuals) would be a REALLY good idea.

already got that one mate :)

Olkly Dokly

I am going from memory here so bare with me, I have done a few in the past where I have had to do the oil pump seal so below is assuming removal of oil pump to get the bracket off.

Remove the harmonic balancer (disc your crank sensor, pop a breaker bar into the bolt and jam in your suspension, crank engine a little, should crack the bolt), power steering tensionor pulley, belts, ac compressor (DO NOT DISC LINES)

Remove the RHS mount and bracket, the alt needs to come off (remove the top bolt first, loosen the lower bolt, swing the alt down, remove the top bracket [there are 2 14mm head bolts under the bracket] and then lift the alt out, you will need to move your ac allot pipe slightly) as there should be 2 bolts going through the ac bracket into the engine mount bracket, a lot of mechanics do leave these out however.

Remove timing belt covers.

Remove the filter holder and then you can clean and replace. As the oil pump can stay put you should not need to remove the air con pump

Now from memory and I may be wrong without looking at one since it has been a while, you need to remove the oil pump to get the housing off.

Make sure you have the gasket also for when you replace.

ok my brother and i gave this a shot today
the bit that we didnt understand was whether the A/C compressor needs to come off or not, as you say that it does then further down you say that it can stand put
we also didnt want to crank the engine to crack the bolt to get the harmonic balancer off cause theres no oil in the engine
we got the power steering belt off but thats as far as we got
might have a go at removing the alternator tomorrow
hopefully my mates friend would be willing to help out as hes a mechanic and used to work on mitsi's
i dont really wanna have to get her towed somewhere to get her fixed :(

ok had another shot at this today
got the alternator out, which was a pain in the ass, never doing one again!!!
had another look at the bracket and it seems we have cracked one of the right bolts for it
the other ones behind the cover so the pulley will have to come off
anyone know where i can get the tool from?
once thats off should be all go after that :)

Mate, cranking the engine with no oil is fine so long as you disc the CAS is not connected thus it does not start. There will be plenty enough oil around the various parts for a quick crank.

You can make a tool where you remove the starter and lock the ring gear but is a lot of un needed trouble IMO

As for the air con, my typo, was thinking oil pump not the filter holder

ah ok, i have to go and get my breaker bar again from my brother as we tried to fix his car
lets just say dave from RPW strikes again :doubt:
so there should still be enough oil in the engine even tho its been sitting with no oil for about 4 or 5 days?
so your saying its easier to get the tool that they use for the cam gears?
the only trouble im gonna have is tighten it back up to the right nm, i think there 189 or something

*edit* wheres the crank angle sensor?, doesnt say much about it in the workshop manual

Ok, Please do not use those 3 letters in these forums, they are very offensive to a lot of us lol (might have to add these to the swear filter hmmmmm) :D

The CAS wire you will see goes down the front of the engine (well drivers side in the Magna) and has a bracket holding it onto the end of the manifold. It is sort of triangular shape.

No harm cranking an engine with no oil, the parts will still be coated and as you are not starting there will be little to no pressure on internals.

The cam tool? You can not hold the cams and crack the balancer bolt, you will not do much good to your tensionor or your belt. Just lock the crank and then let rip. When you assemble it all together again, a rattle gun is sufficient, have been doing thes for years and never an issue doing this. Not exact I know but then again the front balancer is really nothing much more than a pulley on a Magna as does not seal oil in fact does sfa really but run belts.

ah ok thanks for that
all the belts are off the car except for the timing belt
i've got a rattle gun but need to get the compressor going again
when putting the pulley back on you just lock it into place then tighten? or is there a special way to do it?
i was thinking the cam tool cause it has the two holes on either side, but after looking at it, its not gonna work

oh and one more thing, i didnt need to take out the alternator did i? that thing took me ages to get out
couldnt crack the bolts lol

this is the crank angle sensor yeah?
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/Image049.jpg

dats d baby

just looking in the workshop manual
do i need this item to lock the crankshaft?
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/crankshaft.jpg

Umm.....thats with the gearbox off.....Looks like the ?Flex plate? (not too sure what the plates called again)

to lock the crank, just wedge a screwdriver carefully in your crank pulley against something in/on/around the car to jam it up.

Also, LOL, There "special tool" looks to be a piece of steel with 2 holes drilled in it. Piece of engineering that is

just looking in the workshop manual
do i need this item to lock the crankshaft?
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/crankshaft.jpg

thats if the gearbox is off and you want to remove the flywheel.. its of no help to you for this job mate

You can not jam the pulley as it is solid.

Just crank the motor mate, I have been doing this for over 20 years and can assure you that no damage will result. If you have a very strong rattle gun it may remove the bolt but these are damn tight

You can not jam the pulley as it is solid.

Just crank the motor mate, I have been doing this for over 20 years and can assure you that no damage will result. If you have a very strong rattle gun it may remove the bolt but these are damn tight

its not the removing part, its the reinstalling part

ok still cant seem to get the bracket off for the tension pulley
what am i doing wrong? or what havent i undone?
i've undone the three bolts on the engine mount bracket plus the one on the a/c bracket
heres a pic of what bolts i've undone
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/Image050.jpg
that bolt in the timing cover is just to hold it up to stop dust getting in

also seems that bracket moves towards the front of the car to come undone, or does it drop done?
got the big pulley off and the timing belt cover so i can now see all the bolts
had a good look at it and cant see what i have missed :confused:
im soo close i can taste it

Keep ya head up man, reminds me of the stupid **** I would get myself into. Try prying around more with a torch to see in crevices cracks etc.
Best of luck mate, and next time, use a brass adaptor!

ok still cant seem to get the bracket off for the tension pulley
what am i doing wrong? or what havent i undone?
i've undone the three bolts on the engine mount bracket plus the one on the a/c bracket
heres a pic of what bolts i've undone
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/Image050.jpg
that bolt in the timing cover is just to hold it up to stop dust getting in

also seems that bracket moves towards the front of the car to come undone, or does it drop done?
got the big pulley off and the timing belt cover so i can now see all the bolts
had a good look at it and cant see what i have missed :confused:
im soo close i can taste it

Look at your own pic mate, there is a 4th bolt near the top, is plain as day in your pic. As my Op stated, there are 4 bolts on the ront (or rhs depending how you look at it) Just a tip, they are not all the same length so keep this in mind when you remove them

Timing belt covers need to come off too

ok well i have now taken off all the timing belt covers (also checked the timing belt as i had a feeling it would of needed to be replaced due to age, but still looks new) and P/S tensioner pulley
also noticed one of the covers are cracked so i'll need to glue that back together :doubt:
now about the engine mount, if i was to undo that last bolt will the engine drop?
i've got a support under there atm just incase something happens as theres only one screw done up tight, the other are in the finger tight
also is it easier to take the screw out from the mount? or undo the bracket with the three bolts?
and the main pulley, how do you retighten it?

i'll be going out tomorrow morning to get the gasket and also a torque wrench,
then spending the rest of the day getting this car running again
im getting tired of driving a boat around lol

Not too sure what your up to here but if you are disconnecting the engine mount from the engine it will drop unless you have a jack under there. wont drop much though, dont fret too much

']Not too sure what your up to here but if you are disconnecting the engine mount from the engine it will drop unless you have a jack under there. wont drop much though, dont fret too much

i have to take out the mounting bracket to take out the bracket for the tension pulley
i've got a jack under the engine atm, well under the oil sump with abit of timber across it

i have to take out the mounting bracket to take out the bracket for the tension pulley
i've got a jack under the engine atm, well under the oil sump with abit of timber across it
You'll be right then mate.

Your engine mount should have been off long before you started to take off the bracket.

Again there are 4 bolts on the front face not 3

You will need a good jack as previously explained to lift the engine up a fair way to make room to remove the bracket from the engine bay or at least lift it up some

And not you can not get an idea of the condition of a timing belt by looking at it either, you replace every 100K. I can show you a belt that looks just as good after 100k as one that has done 10k If you are doing the belt you will also need a special tool to re tension the belt, gregorys manual shows you how to make it. You also need a very small torque wrench to use on the tool

ok well currently doing this now
got the mount undone but cant take it out of the car cause of the a/c pipe that runs across the engine bay
oh and to get that bracket out looks like im gonna have to take the timing belt off :doubt:
or loosen it to take off the idler pulley
so yeah i'm getting there slowly
is there a way to loosen the belt so i can just take off the pulley and leave the belt on there?
also how do you retighten the harmonic balancer?

What do you have, TH?

Only on the TL is the engine mount a little more difficult. The TE - J come out no problemo

No, do not touch the Timing Belt if you do not have the proper tool to tighten up, if you read what I posted you need to remove the mount all together, then you JACK UP the engine, with some manouvering the bracket will come out. There is a bracket on the chassis rail with a 12mm head bolt you can undo to give a little more space to move around in. It is tight but I have done it countless times

no i have a TL
theres acouple of things in the way to get the mount out
well then looks like thats put a hault on the fix up as the thing i need to undo is part of the timing belt setup
unless theres another way?

TL, you should be able to carefully move the pipe far enough to get the actual engine mount out? You support the motor, take out the bolt and 2 nuts into the engine, remove the bolts off the chassis, drop the motor a little and then you can move the pipe slightly to get the mount clear.

Moving the timing belt does nothing as the main problem you are having are the bolts that hold the mount bracket to the block, move the bracket around and you will be able to get the bolts out

i've tried to move the bracket around but it wont budge
any way to crack the nut on the pulley to loosen the tension on it? so i can spin the bracket?
this is the only problem im having atm
once this is sorted i'll be able to get into the last bolt
then put it all back together and hope for the best

Have you undone 3 or 4 bolts in the front of the bracket, ie the ones in your pic above showed 3 but there is a 4th

i've undone all 4, the engine mount bracket is loose and there are no bolts going into the pulley bracket

*edit* i ment the pulley bracket wont budge

well i must be doing something wrong as i've taken everything apart and still cant get the pulley bracket to move
this is driving my insane
cant see any bolts left in the mount only thing i can see holding it is the idler pulley for the timing belt

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/pulley.jpg

My bad mate, you need to undo the pully for the timing belt but if you are careful you can still do it without removal of the belt.

I was thinking you were talking about the engine mount bracket still not the idler bracket

all good mate
now i should be able to just loosen it? or do i have to take it right off?
also the big pulley i took off, the one that drives the two belts, how do you reinstall that?

i just struck gold!!!! lol
well not really but i did get the bracket off
i would like to thank madmagna for the advice he gave to help me through this tough time :), couldnt have done it without you mate, well myself that is
now that everythings apart, it all has to go back together which is the fun part
almost had the timing belt fall off when removing the bracket but saved it
everythings cleaned up ready to go
just need the questions answered in the post above this one then i should be sweet
will get some pics up soon
but yeah at least i got to buy some new tools too :D over budget for this mod big time

just a quick pic of what my engine bay currently looks like
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/Image051.jpg
its a complete mess lol

swapped the bracket over, put the pulley bracket back in and now trying put the idler pulley back on
i've got it screwed onto the bracket but cant seem to get it back into the block
ah well try again tomorrow
looking forward to getting her running again and hopefully she doesnt leak!!

Just a question, so what happened with the timing belt? Didnt you tension the pulley back up?
Like, you really do not want to stuff that up :P

']Just a question, so what happened with the timing belt? Didnt you tension the pulley back up?
Like, you really do not want to stuff that up :P
The third gens have a tensionor pulley and a idler pulley, you can remove the idler pulley and replace it without touching the tensionor provided the belt does not move and the pretension does not release

The third gens have a tensionor pulley and a idler pulley, you can remove the idler pulley and replace it without touching the tensionor provided the belt does not move and the pretension does not release
Bastards.
Dont they have a hydraulic tensioner too? (just going off my 3.5L)

thats right, once the pulley sat roughly back into place
the tension was back on the belt same as before, so all good there

now i've asked this acouple of times, how do you retension the hermonic balancer

anyone know how to retension that main pulley? (the one that drives the two belts)
as this is all i have to do
then it's oil in and crank the motor

Mate, as stated prviously use your rattle gun. YOu mentioned you need to get your rattle gun out for this?

i said i have a rattle gun but the compressors stuffed
dunno if i have the right sized socket for it either
what setting do you have it on? 1-4?
i'll see if i can get her running again
there isnt another way is there?

Just use the half inch drive as it slips into the end of the bolt.

Only other way is to lock off the crank and use the torque wrench. I sue my gun as I know the tool well and know roughly what it will torque up to.

If you are unsure of your tool then you will need to torque it up, perhaps take out the starter and have someone lock off the ring gear with a large screw driver

well she's running which is a good sign
still leaking oil but not alot, think its one of the adaptors or something
only thing different now is theres alot more tapping going on and not sure why
the same oil was used
got a pic of the bracket and will get the up in the next couple of mins

well she's running which is a good sign
still leaking oil but not alot, think its one of the adaptors or something
only thing different now is theres alot more tapping going on and not sure why
the same oil was used
got a pic of the bracket and will get the up in the next couple of mins

You better not of used that same adaptor:doubt:
Cost me $30 for some brass adaptors today that go in the stock oil pressure switch location

nah i had to buy a new one
cant see where it's leaking so i'll have alook when i get a chance, probuly tomorrow or later today

heres a pic of the old one
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/Image052.jpg
it was the same on the other side, overtighten FTW!! :doubt:

nah i had to buy a new one
cant see where it's leaking so i'll have alook when i get a chance, probuly tomorrow or later today

heres a pic of the old one
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/Image052.jpg
it was the same on the other side, overtighten FTW!! :doubt:

That will be something like a BSP or Thats US thread which tapers...
Don't need to overtighten it, looks like you got every last mm of thread out of it! Just until the taper grabs...then just a turn or two.

']That will be something like a BSP or Thats US thread which tapers...
Don't need to overtighten it, looks like you got every last mm of thread out of it! Just until the taper grabs...then just a turn or two.

What tuffy said, uses the thread to seal, not a washer etc like conventional threads do.

A above, being a taper thread, you do not need to do overly tight or you will end up where you were with that filter bracket

So what exactly are you running off these adaptors, guages?

A above, being a taper thread, you do not need to do overly tight or you will end up where you were with that filter bracket

So what exactly are you running off these adaptors, guages?
I would say the sender unit or unitS for gauges yeah.

i'll be running an oil pressure guage

do you have any ideas about the tapping noises? sounds like its coming from the belt area
it alittle louder then before thats all

cheers for all your help so far :D

i'll be running an oil pressure guage

do you have any ideas about the tapping noises? sounds like its coming from the belt area
it alittle louder then before thats all

cheers for all your help so far :D

External belt area or timing belt area? if in doubt take it to a mechanic mate

']External belt area or timing belt area? if in doubt take it to a mechanic mate

external

would over tighten belts make the tapping noise?
seems to be back to normal now, but alittle louder once idling for abit

If your belts are old, hard and out of shape this will cause a knocking noise, as will the idler pulleys if they are not in good shape

Found the oil leak?

ok i'll have alook over her tomorrow
the leak seems to be coming from one of the adaptors as its a slow drip only when the cars running
belts are about as old as the car 40,000, seem to be ok when they came off but noticed some small cracks in one
car goes in for a service in acouple of months so hopefully they'll hold up until then
might get my mechanic mate to give her a once over, but she seems to be running right

ok, car seems to be running ok
there was alittle bit of knocking when turning the wheel but seems to have gone away after turning the wheel full lock to full lock acouple of times
oil leak has been narrow down to the adaptor that goes into the oil filter bracket
is there any type of sealent i could use? as i dont really wanna start trying to tighten it up as i may end up with another broken bracket :doubt:
its a small leak but seems to be dripping every few seconds when the engines running
will be giving the car along drive on monday to see how she holds up, hopefully the all clear :D

ok, car seems to be running ok
there was alittle bit of knocking when turning the wheel but seems to have gone away after turning the wheel full lock to full lock acouple of times
oil leak has been narrow down to the adaptor that goes into the oil filter bracket
is there any type of sealent i could use? as i dont really wanna start trying to tighten it up as i may end up with another broken bracket :doubt:
its a small leak but seems to be dripping every few seconds when the engines running
will be giving the car along drive on monday to see how she holds up, hopefully the all clear :D

You can put regular thread tape on the fittings, that should seal them up well.

ok, car seems to be running ok
there was alittle bit of knocking when turning the wheel but seems to have gone away after turning the wheel full lock to full lock acouple of times
oil leak has been narrow down to the adaptor that goes into the oil filter bracket
is there any type of sealent i could use? as i dont really wanna start trying to tighten it up as i may end up with another broken bracket :doubt:
its a small leak but seems to be dripping every few seconds when the engines running
will be giving the car along drive on monday to see how she holds up, hopefully the all clear :D

Sweet. I would replace the belts now mate :) less hassle if they snap, wrap themselves around your crank pulley and cause your timing belt to jump I reckon.

Did you use thread tape on the adaptor? Just put my two way adaptor in today aswell actually

You can put regular thread tape on the fittings, that should seal them up well.

would that mean i'll need to remove them or just go straight over the top?
and thats that white tape isnt it?

would that mean i'll need to remove them or just go straight over the top?
and thats that white tape isnt it?

Yeah, remove them, clean the thread, thread tape them, put them back in but Not as much, found thread tape after a few winds makes the thread a bit tougher to put in so I dont turn it as much

dont really wanna take them off always i'll be back to where i started lol
replacing the oil filter bracket

anyone know if there some kind of sealent i could use on the adaptors?
dont really wanna start removing them as i'm scared the same thing will happen

anyone know if there some kind of sealent i could use on the adaptors?
dont really wanna start removing them as i'm scared the same thing will happen
Mate nothing to be scared of....If you dont use proper sealant The same thing will happen!
About 4 layers of thread tape usually does it for me, Then it only screws in about halfway...
Just until It is REALLY tigh, and cant be moved with force from a spanner.

the main reason why i dont what to remove it is cause it was a pain to get the things in there
ended up fitting them all to the bracket then just wacked the bracket on, much easier then tryna do it under the car
everything was done up tight with a spanner, but not really tight
not sure which one is leaking but i thinks theres acouple
if theres no silicone that i could use then i'll pull her apart but its not something i wanna do

the main reason why i dont what to remove it is cause it was a pain to get the things in there
ended up fitting them all to the bracket then just wacked the bracket on, much easier then tryna do it under the car
everything was done up tight with a spanner, but not really tight
not sure which one is leaking but i thinks theres acouple
if theres no silicone that i could use then i'll pull her apart but its not something i wanna do

Take some pictures mate?
I installed mine yesterday and Got the adaptor in first, then screwed the two senders in while under the car, with my face near the wheel, facing the bottom of the engine, had a bit of room to work with, so interesting to see how yours is setup

i can get to most of it from under the car
only part i dont think i can undo (where i think its leaking from) is the adaptor itself
only reason is cause of the factory sender on top, which if i was to twist the adaptor to take it off it'll hit either the A/C compressor or the lower oil sump
and i dont think i'll be able to loose the factory sender by hand, used a ratchet to put that on and its tucked up in a small space
i'll put up a pic in a sec

i can get to most of it from under the car
only part i dont think i can undo (where i think its leaking from) is the adaptor itself
only reason is cause of the factory sender on top, which if i was to twist the adaptor to take it off it'll hit either the A/C compressor or the lower oil sump
and i dont think i'll be able to loose the factory sender by hand, used a ratchet to put that on and its tucked up in a small space
i'll put up a pic in a sec
I was going to keep the factory sender, but thats what this replaces really...
I'm running an oil pressure and oil temp gauge. The stock sender is like 27mm or something such a bitch to get that sender in and out...glad I ditched it

heres a pic of the setup
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/Image057.jpg
now it seems its leaking from the adaptor down going from the pics

how many pieces there?
Looks like one coming out of the block, then a T, then another adaptor into the oil pressure sender?

there the t piece, then into the long extension, then an adaptor that goes into the sender

oh yeah and fixed the leak :D
seems that one of the adaptors was alittle loose, tighten it up and no more leakage
will monitor it tho just to make sure

there the t piece, then into the long extension, then an adaptor that goes into the sender

oh yeah and fixed the leak :D
seems that one of the adaptors was alittle loose, tighten it up and no more leakage
will monitor it tho just to make sure
If it is possible I would still thread tape it mate ;)

Can not thread tape as the teflon will insulate the fittings and the senders will not work due to them relying on the earth

Good to see this is fixed at last

Can not thread tape as the teflon will insulate the fittings and the senders will not work due to them relying on the earth

Good to see this is fixed at last

Yeah? Ah crap I was told to use tape...
So what Just straight in? Not even thread tape going into the block?

ok, she's still leaking oil
it's a slow drip like every few seconds it'll drip
got under the car and tighten everything up but its still leaking :doubt:
think i know what the problem is, one of the threads has sunken in the adaptor and opened it up abit
i think this is where the leak is coming from as theres fresh oil around the area
so without removing everything is there some sort of sealent i could use around it?

If there's a plumbing shop near you, see if they've got some Loctite 545.

http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/545-EN.pdf

failing that, try and get some Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant.

http://www.akd-tools.gr/xmsAssets/File/Catalogues/permatex_automotive.pdf (page 21)

well looks like she's off the road again at the moment
took her for a run this arvo and she ran all sweet
then i could hear that something was loose,
something spinning and grinding at the same time, the sound of a loose pulley
lucky i wasnt far from home so i babied it home
seems to me that the camshaft pulley has become loose, thought it was tighten enoungh but looks like it wasnt
so looks like she's stuck in the shed until i can get time to look at her :(

oh yeah and also the exhaust sound was soo bad, sounded like a truck or something
turns out theres a hole just before the muffler, only a small one but enough to make her sound like crap
had a feeling there was a hole in it as i could see a paddle of water under the car instead of at the rear like it normally does
maybe its time to take the resonator out too :)

so yeah not a good day :doubt:
and im back at work tomorrow so it'll be hard to try and fix her asap

oh bugger man. I hope you get her organised ASAP. Goodluck :cool:

well looks like she's off the road again at the moment
took her for a run this arvo and she ran all sweet
then i could hear that something was loose,
something spinning and grinding at the same time, the sound of a loose pulley
lucky i wasnt far from home so i babied it home
seems to me that the camshaft pulley has become loose, thought it was tighten enoungh but looks like it wasnt
so looks like she's stuck in the shed until i can get time to look at her :(

oh yeah and also the exhaust sound was soo bad, sounded like a truck or something
turns out theres a hole just before the muffler, only a small one but enough to make her sound like crap
had a feeling there was a hole in it as i could see a paddle of water under the car instead of at the rear like it normally does
maybe its time to take the resonator out too :)

so yeah not a good day :doubt:
and im back at work tomorrow so it'll be hard to try and fix her asap

Camshaft pulley? You mean crank pulley? as long as you did it REALLY tight you should have no dramas...
Sorry to hear mate.

']Camshaft pulley? You mean crank pulley? as long as you did it REALLY tight you should have no dramas...
Sorry to hear mate.

haha yeah i ment crankshaft pulley

haha yeah i ment crankshaft pulley
if your car is a manual a good trick I learnt Is to just put it in gear with a wheel touching the ground and then tighten it up all ya want.

']if your car is a manual a good trick I learnt Is to just put it in gear with a wheel touching the ground and then tighten it up all ya want.

you reckon that'll work?
cause if it'll work then i should be able to work it
oh and yes mines manual ;)

you reckon that'll work?
cause if it'll work then i should be able to work it
oh and yes mines manual ;)

yeah just put it in 3rd with the wheel touching the ground, when you go to tighten the crank, well it cant move as its trying to spin the wheel which is touching the ground, so you can tighten it more.
REMEMBER to take it out of gear before you start it :P

']yeah just put it in 3rd with the wheel touching the ground, when you go to tighten the crank, well it cant move as its trying to spin the wheel which is touching the ground, so you can tighten it more.
REMEMBER to take it out of gear before you start it :P

lol, i always check to make sure it's out of gear
trust me i've left it in gear acouple of times while trying to start the car :doubt:
but if i was the turn the crankshaft with the wheels off the ground then how come the wheels werent moving?
doesnt the crankshaft pulley just run the two belts?

lol, i always check to make sure it's out of gear
trust me i've left it in gear acouple of times while trying to start the car :doubt:
but if i was the turn the crankshaft with the wheels off the ground then how come the wheels werent moving?
doesnt the crankshaft just run the two belts?
crank becomes your output shaft which turns the gears in your GB which turns your wheels....why they were not moving....no idea...but worked for me

']crank becomes your output shaft which turns the gears in your GB which turns your wheels....why they were not moving....no idea...but worked for me

oh in that case they probuley werent moving cause the car was out of gear

Does not really matter which gear, but as is manual (wish you had told us before) you can do exactly what tuffy stated, pop it into gear, have someone hold the brake or better still place a screw driver in each rotor vent and then you can torque up correctly

Does not really matter which gear, but as is manual (wish you had told us before) you can do exactly what tuffy stated, pop it into gear, have someone hold the brake or better still place a screw driver in each rotor vent and then you can torque up correctly

haha sorry, didnt really think it would matter as the thread was to do with the bracket

silly question but whats a rotor vent?
will give this a shot something this week if i get a chance

haha sorry, didnt really think it would matter as the thread was to do with the bracket

silly question but whats a rotor vent?
will give this a shot something this week if i get a chance
Your front brake rotors are vented, look on the sides of the rotor face and you'll see slot holes all the way around the circumference of the rotor.... Pop a big screwdriver in there (angled so the screwdriver touches the ground to stop the rotor and driveshaft rotating) and go ahead with what you were doing before.

Or through the caliper into the vent is much easier but yeah, what he said lol

ohhhhh your brake rotor
now i understand lol

haha ok cheers will give this a shot soon :)

ok gave each one a try just now and they didnt seem to work :(
lock up the brake rotors with screwdrivers and went to tighten the bolt,
started to tighten then went loose
ok that didnt work so got someone to hold the brake pedal down
same thing, the same thing happend to when i tried it with the wheels on the ground
now its either the bolt is tight enough or im doing it wrong

also i dunno if the pulley was the cause of the noise i heard (something grinding and spinning at the same time while i was slowing down)
i also forgot to tighten the wheel up before i took her out for a spin :nuts:, remembered once i got home
but only two nuts where loose
i dont think that it could be the idler pulley for the timing belt i removed, i hope its not as i made sure that was nice and tight
so its either one of the pulleys on the drive belts or it's the crankshaft bolt as my mate tighten these up, so who knows anythings possible

ok gave each one a try just now and they didnt seem to work :(
lock up the brake rotors with screwdrivers and went to tighten the bolt,
started to tighten then went loose
ok that didnt work so got someone to hold the brake pedal down
same thing, the same thing happend to when i tried it with the wheels on the ground
now its either the bolt is tight enough or im doing it wrong

also i dunno if the pulley was the cause of the noise i heard (something grinding and spinning at the same time while i was slowing down)
i also forgot to tighten the wheel up before i took her out for a spin :nuts:, remembered once i got home
but only two nuts where loose
i dont think that it could be the idler pulley for the timing belt i removed, i hope its not as i made sure that was nice and tight
so its either one of the pulleys on the drive belts or it's the crankshaft bolt as my mate tighten these up, so who knows anythings possible

Mate if you want your car on the road soon just get a mechanic over to look at it /fix it or else it'll be another 2 weeks off the road just for a stupid gauge

As you look at the bolt it tightens clockwise, same as any other bolt on a Magna

Did you align the pin on the pulley when you put it all together?

Have you damaged the thread on the bolt

Trust me, a pair of screw drivers in rotors with the car in gear will hold much tighter than someone with a foot on the brake

i dont think you get what im saying
i've tryed each way and there not working, the crankshaft isnt locking up like you say it should,it just keeps spinning
when i put a screwdriver through the caliper into the rotor then start to tighten i can see the rotor start to move then lock up cause of the screwdriver, but the pulley keeps on spinning as normal
i'll give it another shot tomorrow and see what happens

i dont think you get what im saying
i've tryed each way and there not working, the crankshaft isnt locking up like you say it should,it just keeps spinning
when i put a screwdriver through the caliper into the rotor then start to tighten i can see the rotor start to move then lock up cause of the screwdriver, but the pulley keeps on spinning as normal
i'll give it another shot tomorrow and see what happens
You are meant to jam it into the ground (thats how we did it anyway) I.e. long bar goes between two studs, and jams into ground. Meaning left wheel cant move, and right wheel should still be on ground.

when you move crank (in gear) it should want to turn everything in the gearbox to move the wheel but because they cant move, neither should the crank.
what exactly are you trying to jam the screwdriver in?

As you look at the bolt it tightens clockwise, same as any other bolt on a Magna

Did you align the pin on the pulley when you put it all together?

Have you damaged the thread on the bolt

Trust me, a pair of screw drivers in rotors with the car in gear will hold much tighter than someone with a foot on the brake

yes i am tighten it clockwise
the pulley has been lined up properly as i can see the little bit in the hole
dunno if the threads damaged or not as the bolt wasnt loose enough to remove
i'll try again tomorrow if i get some spare time

']You are meant to jam it into the ground (thats how we did it anyway) I.e. long bar goes between two studs, and jams into ground. Meaning left wheel cant move, and right wheel should still be on ground.

when you move crank (in gear) it should want to turn everything in the gearbox to move the wheel but because they cant move, neither should the crank.
what exactly are you trying to jam the screwdriver in?

i was doing what madmagna said to do, jam it through the caliper into the rotor
oh and i tried it with both wheels on the ground, must be where i went wrong

Tuffy, jaming the caliper is far better and does the same thing

I do not think he is putting it in gear or it is an auto lol

What you describe is the compression stroke and then it letting go

Tuffy, jaming the caliper is far better and does the same thing

I do not think he is putting it in gear or it is an auto lol

What you describe is the compression stroke and then it letting go

yeah just gave this another shot
yes its in gear (3rd) and it is diffently a manual (dont really like auto's)
it locks up then i give it abit to tighten it but it doesnt go, it just pulls back
so the bolt may be tight enough
was having alook at the brake disc and the driver front i could grab it from the side opposite the caliper and pull it towards me about 3+mm and the other side about 1mm
is this normal?
i have a feeling cause the wheel was loose on the drivers side that it was the disc scrapping not the pulley being loose as it happened at a low speed/slowing down
dunno if im right or not but i might put it back together and go for another run

Tuffy, jaming the caliper is far better and does the same thing

I do not think he is putting it in gear or it is an auto lol

What you describe is the compression stroke and then it letting go
My mistake, Did not know he was going with your method, which is why I said "did you not jam it into the ground" as yeah thought he was doing it this way.
Carry on then.

ok had another crack at it today
started the car and let it run
it idles fine, revs fine and holds the revs fine when i keep my foot on the pedal
so i dont think it was the crankshaft pulley to begin with
will take her for another spin tomorrow or friday to see how she goes
hopefully the all clear
but would the noise i heard be from the wheel being loose? the brake disc was also abit loose (moves towards you about 3mm if grab from the opposite of the caliper)
so i dunno maybe it was the disc i was hearing, gave it all a once over and everything looks ok

well just took her for a run and shes all good :D, no funny noises
still getting the left over oil buring smell, but that should go away soon
seems to be running ok, but the exhaust sounds terrable
dunno whats the go there might have a hole in it or something, will get it checked out soon
hopefully nothing in the engine has blown as it doesnt sound as beefy as before
but apart from that she's ready to hit the streets :D
will keep an eye on her just to make sure

oh and shes not leaking oil anymore :) hopefully the thread sealent hasnt jammed the guage reading
it still reads fine but at idle its between 0-25psi once at operating temp